Primera semana de floración de esta chocofresas, se ve completamente sana, ya que pasan del indoor al exterior cuando pasan a floración

C1 60 C2 63 C3 92 C4 69 C5 84 Total 368g

Bueno chicos entramos ya en la semana 3 no entiendo porque no crecen mucho en altura , que os parece ?en e día 18 a stardawg le he hecho lst y en el dia 20 a la gorilla 🙈

Hi. Nothing special this week. Seems to be bit slow start but what i was looking from other diarys im not the only one. Roots are growing nice

She was extremly fast and ready to harvest after 55 days of flowering. Smells a bit like ripe grapes.

I think im at the end of the stretch now. Lets see these ladies do their thing! 25 percent increase on bloom nutes and increased the cal mag and floralicious this week. Removed floragrow. I hope to see some serious flower development this week.

Week 1 Day 1 9/23/2023 I decided to go ahead and flip her to flower today, she had a stem past the net and high enough to super crop. Humidity was a little high so I added both Dehumidifiers to the tent and attached them to the InkBird. Added: 36 gallons of Water CALMag- .75mil/Gal GH FLoraMicro-5.2mil/Gal GH FlroaGro-4.3mil/Gal GH FLroaBloom-5.2Mil/Gal TPS SIGNAL- 1mil/Gal ORCA-.5mil/Gal Flipped the lighting to Flower 0800-2000, I filled with Week 1 flower Nutes, and I Super Cropped One of the Tops down. Week 1 Day 2 9/24/2023 I cleaned my canopy today, by trying to look straight down and opening up as many Tops sites as I could see blocked by leaves directly above. This will be my life for the rest of Flower cleaning and clearing as well as ensuring no sucker buds. Week 1 Day 3 9/25/2023 Today was one of those days where you can just sit back and look and enjoy some of the work you have put in. Today I just let her be.. Week1 Day 4 9/26/2023 I took the fan leaves that were blocking those beautiful bud sites from light.. Such will be my life every time I enter the tent for the rest of the grow. The clones all have roots coming from the rapid rooter, I am feeling really good that by Sunday they will be ready for selection and planting. Week1 Day 5 9/27/2023 I did some extreme defoliation today I opened the tent and she was just sooo full. Week1 Day 6 9/28/2023 I took a little from the inside and a few smaller inner stems.. I hate to take stems until after week 3 of growth to give each a chance to shoot up and hit the canopy. Week1 Day 7 9/29/2023 Took a look from the underside to see how much light was penetrating the canopy and removed some leaves and stems that were blockers. Tomorrow will add 10 gallons and the Nutes.. that will be my last in between week fill before I start having to change weekly for the rest of the grow.

we are entering the second week, the little plant is growing well. The weather is perfect at the moment ,not too hot. I am continuing this week with the mycorrhizae and bacteria in addition to the bud candy. In all, I would have watered twice with these fertilizers during those first two weeks.see you next week😎

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

The buds are beginning to swell more and more everyday. The smell is very pungent I can’t wait to see the results for this plant I am very pleased with the way everything is coming out.

Frosty !! And Dark ! Going to def regrow under stronger lights

Plant recovered pretty good after ph problem, too much enhancer i think Light is doing its job good as you can see. Nutes at low levels...

Day 25: They where forced into flowering almost a week ago. So ofcourse no signs of preflower yet but I gues we might see the first signs in the end of this week, but surely next week. Everything still looks nicely green, no stress in the stems or branches as well. I did some run-offs. Ph 6-6.2 with like 1.6-1.8 ec which is good to me. The soil has lots of grow nutrients in it, so I stopped giving them grow nutrients since today. I did feed them some flowering nutrients. Just 2ml Canna Terra Flores per liter, which is not much compaired to the week after (4-6ml per liter). To give them a little start. Thats it for this week, might update again this week if I feel like too, Untill next week!

Day 35 of the 12/12 light cycle, flowering 4 plants. Organic LivingSoil. Going slow on the defoliation. 1)24K Gold 2) 24K Gold Clone 3) Unknow Kush III 4) Unknow Kush IV Begginer on KNF and JADAM agriculture methods.

I’m very happy with this strain and would highly recommend. The grow went well despite having some nutrient issues on my part off the bat, the plant over stretched and burnt the main cola on the light. But overall the plant ended up very large and beautiful. I’d guess i get 3+ ounces from this plant.

Inicio da 4° semana vamos no dia 20 com muita força, adicionei agora ao plano de alimentação rinho skin e sensizym para limpar as raizes para pernanecerem brancas e engrossar os ramos strain vigorosa 100% indica estou a gostar Como da pra ver no video houve um pequeno acidente a fazer lst, uni onde rasgou e pus papel vegetal a volta a segurar bem, vamos ver se ela cura.. continua com boa cor e nao se foi abaixo nem uma vez! Esperar uns dias, se nao curar vou cortar e fica um top acidental kkk Ja curou o pequeno corte que tinha no ramo principal, decidi exprimentar fazer um supercrop, é a primeira vez espero que tudo de certo.. Em geral esta ser uma boa semana nada a apontar nestas meninas, a ir muito bem! 😏😁

Notes. Week 18 (week 11 flower) Light settings 12/12 on at 9.00am off at 9.00pm Viparspectra Light power= 75% 165w VPD aim 1.0-1.2 DLI aim 35 Extractor settings temperature 23c with 0c steps Humidity 30% with 0% steps Max speed 10 Min speed 4 Monday 17/7/23 Day 120 (day 74 flower) Looking good. Tuesday 18/7/23 Day 121 (day 75 flower) Defoliate Wednesday 19/7/23 Day 122 (day 76 flower) Harvest #4 276g Hung to dry. Extractor settings temperature 20c with 0c steps Humidity 50% with 0% steps Max speed 10 Min speed 2 Thursday 20/7/23 Day 123 (day 1 dry) Removed some fan leaves. Thursday 27/7/23 Day 131 (day 8 dry) #4 runtz, dry 29g. Larf 2g. Rot 5g. Saturday 29/7/23 Day 133 (day 1 cure) Saturday 5/8/23 Day 140 (day 8 cure) Put humidity packs in the jars. Friday 11/8/23 Day 146 (day 14 cure) Stop using auto burping system now and burp less frequently for a bit. Saturday 12/8/23 Day 147 (day 15 cure) Sunday 27/8/23 Day 162 (day 30 cure) Sampled Stats for the grow #1 377g #3 338g #4 276g #5 393g #6 312g Total wet weight =1696g #1 FBPHP12, dry 40g. Larf 4g. #3 FBPHP14, dry 38g. Larf 4g. #4 runtz, dry 29g. Larf 2g. Rot 5g. #5 Pink Rozay, dry 38g. Larf 6g. #6 Candy Rain, dry 34g. Larf 0g. Total dry weight. 179g Total dry larf weight 16g Loads of trim so going run some hash.

Update: I made a Flowering feed guide for myself so I figured I would share it. I'm going to do a small flush on them soon to remove nutrient buildup. I'm sure it will help finished quality. The first girl has been stretching all week. I have had to LST branches to keep her short. I hope she is done stretching but if not I will just keep tying branches down. She did make it too close to a light and it burned one of her buds. It did not cause any issues tho. On the second girl I was tying down the main stem and damn near snapped it off. I freaked out and cried IRL. 😭 I braced the top broken half and taped it up then I gave her a large dose of Silica and Recharge to help her recover. Only the broken top of the main stem went a droopy for 4 days and she almost stopped growing. She developed some rust spots on some of her fan leafs. I gave her Cal-Mag the second I saw the spots developing but they developed regardless. My guess is that she used energy in her fan leafs to help her recover. The good news is she looks fully recovered. 👊 I can feel a knot where the break is, very fast recovery for such a bad break. For sure this was my worst LTS accident to date. I will get a pictures of the break when I feel comfortable removing the tape. I upgraded there lights with 2x 100w 3000k flood lights with the lens plate removed. I have had really good results with these lights in previous grows and they are thin so they fit perfectly. I now have: 2x Castnoo 300s (really 100w) 1 Grow Star 150 UFO(really 70w) 2x Viugreum 100w 3000k thin flood lights (really 60w) 2x MAIICY 45w (really 30w) That's a total of 450 true watts. 225w for each of these girls. Very bright inside. Maybe over kill?