Everything's doing great, the ladies are healthy and growing faster and faster!

Drying time

Woche 2 der Blüte

📋 The Lemonpaya was a good plant to grow, im gutted about the start of bud rot, it was only a tiny bit, 3 buds tightly packed together and it was were all 3 buds touched each other. So i removed more then i needed to of decent buds just being cautious. I should have chopped the tops a good week before i did because they were ready, and i may have gotten away without mold, and the lowers would have benefited with the extra light. After 2 weeks drying I put the buds into terplock bags, never used these bags before so I'm hoping everything works out. Stats for the GDG21 Truffle gas. Dry decent buds 94g Dry larfy buds 4g Lemonpaya Dry decent buds 62g Dry larfy buds 8g Trashed buds 21g Total decent buds=156g Total larf=12g Removed because of rot 21g Hash=7g Total=163g Light power=217.11 KW during the 115 days of the grow. 18hrs for 35 days=630hrs, 16hrs for 7 days=112, 12hrs for 70 days=840hrs. Total hours lights on=1582hrs Average watt per hour lights on=137w 1.18g/w 📋 Smoke report. This isn't what I expected at all the, I'm not a fan of lemon strains but this one only has a very slight lemony taste. Better then I was expecting. Take it easy. Back soon.

Hi Grower! At first this Strain this is the perfect choice for small places. It was a very easy grow this round works from alone and was super fast. 11 weeks and i have dry medicine. For this is 55gr for 2 Plants not the biggest yield but for the time and place its ok. Thanks for follow. Bye,Bud Little Update: 12.01.2021 I make a really strong CBD Oil from this Strain!! Top Choice for Oil!

Welcome to the Royal Queen Seeds Cup 🏆. Hey everyone 😃. The lady becomes more beautiful week after week 😍. This week it was poured with 1.2 L so that the whole coco is watered and the Royal Queen Seeds Easy Boost Organic that is mixed in the coconut substrate can unfold 👍. The humidifier has been refilled so that the humidity remains constant at 65%. The tent was cleaned and the entire electronics as well as the entire setup checked. I am very curious to see how these beautiful genetics will develop in the coming week and until then I hope you enjoy the new update. Stay healthy and let it grow 🍀🍀🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.royalqueenseeds.de/feminisierte-hanfsamen/220-pineapple-kush.html Type: Pineapple Kush ☝️🏼 Genetics: Pineapple x O.G. Kush 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Royal Queen Seeds Easy Boost Organic ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

She’s spread out and should be ready to swell. Very very very sticky. Already starting to yellow but I know everything’s in the medium so I think it’s just the pheno.

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

Fastberry Auto is truly a gem among autoflowering cannabis strains! Its rapid growth, delightful berry-like aroma, and beautiful purple buds make it a joy to cultivate. The sweet and fruity flavor is a treat for the senses, and the balanced high leaves me feeling creatively inspired and deeply relaxed. A must-try for any cannabis enthusiast, whether you're a seasoned grower or just starting out! -

Just got done with trimming the 4x4 @greenhouseseedco Super Silver Haze / @blimburnseeds Silver Surfer Haze tent. The final yield is exactly 1000g plus some (kind of a lot)that I smoke in the last 2 weeks 😃 Also got 6, gallon size ziploc bags filled with good quality trim for concentrate. To be honest I was expecting a little more but keeping in mind that this grow I did not supplemented with bottled CO2 I think I’m good with the results. Definitely I enjoyed a lot this grow and I’ve learned even more.

Everything went ok this week. They seem to still be drinking ok but not as much. The flowers are hard dense. I also notice the smell isn't as strong a week ago. This week I downgraded the tea to just molasses and my diy compost.

Sweet seeds thanks for super strain

No bug or disease problems. I even took her off veg nutes way too soon and she recovered like a fucking champ. I’m popping two more this week. Unfortunately i didn’t weigh it because Of some very unfortunate circumstances that I was dealing with at the time. I essentially had to vacate my premise within 24 hours. A few days after harvest. Anyways. I ended up smoking the whole thing with my friends and it was straight fire. The terps were crazy also. Super sweet. After curing she had a very sweet smell like bubblegum / grape. This was only my second harvest ever.

23.04.2024 Continue into week 8 Replaced all filters in the system and cleaned them. Mixed a new batch with the following components: 20+25ml AN Connoisseur Bloom A+B Total volume: 34 liters Electrical Conductivity (EC): 1.0 Target EC for this week: 0.8-1.0. Adjustments will be based on plant observations. Performed one long misting session (3 minutes). Environmental Conditions: Outside temperatures going up, today is raining but this week start higher temps and humidity Wedding Cheesecake: One girl is gonna finish in this week, Two others probably in next. Frutti terps in this, Two pheno in total from 3 girls' Tropicana Cookies: Phenomenal strain; One girl is going to finish this week and second couple days after . Two pheno in Tropicana's girls Purple Lemonade: Tall plants, massive producer, all three girls will be in 9 week provably. Here so far all three girl share same characteristics and bud structure Beautiful and high odor in the room! Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 950, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.1 to -1.2. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 70%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Girls drink less water, so for this week and till the end of flowering new misting timing's Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 6.00. Stable PH, small drifting up and downs EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 25.04.2024 TrolMaster toys arrived! Purchase new DST2E, DSP2E, DSH2E, AMP3+probes. Another DSH2E and DSP2E ordered to complete this grow box! Replaced all filters in the system and cleaned them. Mixed a new batch with the following components: 25+30ml AN Connoisseur Bloom A+B. Total volume: 17 liters Electrical Conductivity (EC): 1.05 Tomorrow Tropicana Cookies harvest! Put bucket with this girl on separate line for flushing Wedding Cheesecake also finish soon, probably in next week, Wednesday think... Purple Lemonade still need full week or more...Exceptional odors Temps and humidity outside start to raises, hope i will finish this run before Tropical heat Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 950, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.0 to -1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 70%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 26.04.2024 Connect TrolMaster components into the Tent-X system. Program DSP2E, Temperature DST2E, Humidity DSH2E, as well as the AMP3 sensor with PH and EC probes, are all in place. After calibrating the probes, AMP3 module works perfectly! It has a quick response in measurements, is accurate, and I am very happy about the possibility of online monitoring of liquid values. After day off use i can tell that all readings are very consistent, compared with Milwaukee, totally without all over the place measurements. Perfectly steady and on spot receding! The Program device runs flawlessly all day, and I hope it has solved all the problems I had with DH48-S timers. The humidity control operates without errors throughout the day, and it’s nice to see in the app when the module is active. Raise light as much as i can..50-55cm from canopy. Set off misting time from 30min to 35min @ day time , and from 35min to 45min @ night time Flush Tropicana Cookies' for one more day, tomorrow harvest, prepared tent for drying with humidifier , ventilation and temperature and humidity controllers PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 850, minimum PPFD is 500. VPD: Ranges from 1.0 to 1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 50-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 45 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 28.04.2024 First harvest in this run! Tropicana Cookies No1 is a winner.) First Tropicana Cookies is harvested on 89 day from seed. Total 55 days off flowering. Fast flowering indeed as fast in vegetative stage. Cut this girl in branches and hang upside-down in smaller tent for drying Set RH @ 55% , temperatures not able to control so they will be something around 20-21 in drying tent Second Tropicana will be chopped within a couple off days. Checking trichomes with microscopes can tell that one Purple Lemonade is also going to finish in next days Somme lady's will take full 9 weeks or so.. Lowering light intensity, EC in tank start to raise slowly so i will start to adjust according to condition. Currently 0.85EC is perfect strength i think PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 850, minimum PPFD is 550. VPD: Ranges from - 0.9-1.0 Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 60 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 60 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 0.85. Temperature: 19-21°C Week 8 off Flowering in Summary 80 litter off RO water, 120ml+150ml AN connoisseur A+B 45kW electricity in total for light, Pumps and AC Infinity Fans. 42kW for Light + 2kW Dehumidification + AC Infinity ventilation Week start @ 1.1EC, nutrient strength., week finish with 0,87EC Tropicana Cookies is first harvested on day 89 from sprouting , week 8 off flowering Purple Lemonade is on second place with harvest on day 91, last day off 8 week off flowering PH was stabile and move from 5.70 min to 5,9 max. Light distance for this week - 50-55cm from tallest top , PPFD levels around 900 in center, trough whole week. Lowest reading 500 @ corner Temperature are from 20c at start off day to 24.5c max at some points. Night temps around 19.5-20c. Outside humidity is generally low This week i have install TrolMaster AMP3 sensor and humidity, temp and program devices Day RH is moved from 45% to 55% max, at night times drop to 45-48% Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 900, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.0-1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 24.5°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 20°C. Leaf Temperature: 22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 25 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.8 and 6.1 EC: 0.87-1,1. Temperature: 20-21°C

Day 70-77 (Day 71) Not exactly sure why but node spacing on bbb 6&7 is super tight still. Their stems are also harder and less bendy, almost like they’re root bound. Bbb #5 in my veg tent is looking bizarre and I’m at a loss for what to do. I’ve been looking up and asking around about the leaf crinkle and no one seems to know what’s wrong. Trashing a pheno of this would hurt. It could be a keeper too as I don’t think the problem is genetic. It’s definitely root bound but that doesn’t cause contorted new growth like that. I’ve concluded that it’s my dense soil coupled with root bound issues, overwatering and high RH. (Day 72) Later tonight I’m going to give bbb 5 a bath tub flush until it’s reading 200ppms, drain it well and then transplant into a 3g pot with lightly amended soil. I’m also going to give it a light defoliation. I don’t mind stressing the shit out of this plant right now because I won’t be flipping for another week at least. With the small container it will run out of amended nutes mid flower so I will hit it with a few synthetic feedings around then to test out the smokabilty and taste compared to organic nutrients. I might as well give the rest a good defoliation on the rest of the plants too. I will try to get most of what is under the trellis. (Day 73) I definitely defoliated #7 waaay too much. Since it’s tucked away in the corner and a really bushy plant I can’t train it as well as the others. I cut most of the sucker branches and the majority of the lower fans. This should prevent the need to defoliate at all until week 3 of flower. (Day 74) I’ve been reading that higher temperatures with a high RH can affect growth big time. It could be what’s causing all the crinkling and twisting. And now that the plants are in very late veg they could probably benefit from a lower RH. When I was running my temps around 74-78F and 70% RH I was in the perfect range. Now that I’m around 82-86F with the same 70% RH that could be what’s causing it. Hotter air holds more moisture than cooler air and proper vpd at 84F is around 75-80%. I’m going to turn up the speed on my carbon filter and set my controller to 75%. If I don’t see a difference or it gets worse I will drop to 65 and go from there. (Day 76) I finally got the lights raised up another 4 inches or so. It’s not much but it should help reduce the intensity and stretch the nodes more. I’m starting to think the super tight node spacing and droopy/contorted growth has more to do with something I’ve been reading about called ‘soil compaction’. Apparently farmers often deal with compacted soil in fields from running tractors over it all day. When I potted the plants I gave them a good little jiggle to compact the soil down further so I could fit a bit more in the container. I think this could be the culprit as they don’t seem to be drying out evenly. Even the plants in my other room are not drying out like they should and it’s probably from compacting too. With the addition of rock dust and dry amendments the soil can become sandy/clay like and retain a lot more moisture. Wish I would have added a few more liters of perlite and packed the soil a bit looser. Either way I need to get this problem sorted ASAP before I get root rot. Earlier in the season when I overwatered, I stuck a fish tank air pump into the soil and it aerated the soil enough to prevent overwatering. The only reason I discontinued it is because it didn’t have much effect in the 1.7g pots. I just ordered a 36w 6 way fish tank pump that is way more powerful. It was 50 bucks and I’m willing to take a gamble on it. It seems to be my only option at the moment because I can’t just repot. Worst case scenario I can use it for brewing compost teas if it doesn’t work. I’m not sure how well this will work in a giant fabric pot but it’s worth a shot. I’ve heard of people supplementing additional air into raised garden beds with great results. I’m picking off some of the new auxiliary branches to try and widen the node spacing. Growth is definitely slow and stunted but no signs of deficiencies. I just thought of another theory on the node spacing... and the more I think about it, the more I think it’s the mystery problem. I’ve been foliar spraying with 1-1-1 VeloKelp at pretty high concentrations 2-3 times per week. I have heard in passing that kelp and seaweed can somehow reduce stretch. A quick google search reveals that Ascophyllum Nodosum Seaweed and other marine algae extracts contain large amounts of hormones and auxins that reduce plant height and stretch. *facepalm* Guess I’ll stop that for the rest of the cycle. As far as I know there is nothing I can really do but wait for the plant to use up all those excess hormones and nutes. The recent 0-0-15 seaweed extract and 1-0-3 kelp meal I bought is derived from the same kind as the velokelp. I guess I won’t use it again until week 3 or 4 in flower. Tight nodes are very useful in flower but aren’t desirable at all in when trying to scrog in veg. Especially when they’re like a half inch apart. It slows the shit out of a grow. Vietnamese and biker gangs in my area used to grow SOG style and use a synthetic PGR hormone (meant for bonsai trees) called ‘paclobutrazol’ that would make the weed rock hard dense so they wouldn’t have to pay people as much to trim it. I’ve heard that in recent years they have made the switch to using kelp extracts because paclo is getting harder find and is not meant for food crops let alone smokeable crops. I’m ashamed of it but I have smoked pounds of PGR weed long before I knew what a PGR was. 🤷‍♂️ (Day 77) One more theory. Ever since raising up the plants up onto that shelf the root zone is probably significantly warmer and the bottom of the pot (where most of the roots are) drys out way quicker. It’s possible that the warmer root zone could not be holding dissolved oxygen at the proper rate resulting in that over/underwatered look. Or it could be that I’m not watering enough at once to reach the bottom of the pot where the roots are and it’s indeed under watered. I’m going to water in a gallon when I get my new air pump and see if that makes any positive change. If I see the new air pump making a difference, I will flip on the 21st of April. If I don’t see a difference, I will carefully untangle the plants from the scrog net and remove the shelf. That extra foot should make a massive difference with ppfd and will cool down the roots significantly too. I’m thinking about grabbing a simple soil/compost thermometer to check the temp of the medium. Better safe than sorry. Rough week. Hopefully everything get smoothed out in the next little while before I flip.

12/12 started strech inc let's see what happened for the document here is the quote MPK = Mendocino Puprle Kush FBN = Free Blueberry Nation SBM = Sticky Berry Mints PS = Pink Sherbert OOG = Oreoz OG F+4 scrog reworking withtout any stress for the girls ' new upload tommorow morning :) , i tried too record on 60 sec ( time the HPS go full power after quality of uploading is too bad :( ) the structure of most of the plants so you see they are all healthy :)

She's looking very happy and healthy,let's see how this wonderful lady performs,looks like she's not gonna be very productive but always quality over quantity. Hope you guys enjoy. This lady has started the 4 week since planted on August 26th but also it's the start of her 1st week of flower,let's get the job done! 🔝💎💚✌️

Day 35 – The Pineapple Express is stacking on some dense bud formations with increased frost. Some of the pistol hairs are beginning to turn orange. She is maturing fast. She gained about 2” in height this week, but vertical growth is slowing. Continuing to feed the Nectar for the Gods nutrients and have added Triton’s Trawl (liquid fishbone meal that is rich in calcium from fish cartilage and is designed to deliver flavor, aroma and color to the finished product) and Aphrodite’s Extraction (a rich blend of sucrose, fructose, chelated nutrients, and organic acids necessary for enzymatic activity, and a complete balance of vitamins A, C, D, E, B1, B6 and B12, which are essential to a plants’ biological growth processes). These two additions are known to increases oil, resin, frost, and terpene production in flower. Continuing to add Recharge as a soil amendment to establish colonies of beneficial fungal and bacterial microbes. Temperatures are consistently between 74° - 78° and humidity between 30% - 45%. Soil pH is 6.5 and PPMs at 321 which is perfect for the Nectar for the Gods nutrient line. Added a homemade Co2 generator to boost carbon dioxide levels and to improve overall plant growth and health. – Zannabis7 Day 36 - Fed the Nectar of the Gods nutrients as indicated above and in photo. Added Recharge to the nutrient mix for microbes and to aid in the breakdown and uptake of nutrients. - Zannabis7 Day 39 - Fed the Nectar of the Gods nutrients as indicated above and in photo. Again added Recharge to the nutrient mix for microbes and to aid in the breakdown and uptake of nutrients. Also did some very light defoliation and more leaf tucking to expose flower sites - Zannabis7