I have bought 400W 3050k 41000 ceramic metal halide (Best Than hps Hps 56000lm for human eye Cmh’s 41000 lm in par range

Wir sind in BW 4, und die Pflanzen zeigen jetzt klar, dass sie in der Hauptblüte angekommen sind. Der Stretch ist komplett abgeschlossen – stattdessen liegt der volle Fokus auf Bud-Aufbau und Trichomentwicklung. 24K Gold legt kräftig nach: Die Buds verdichten sich sichtbar, die Kelche schwellen an und erste feine Kristalle sind unter normalem Licht bereits zu erkennen. Das Aroma wird intensiver – eine Mischung aus süß-würzig und leicht erdig. Ihre Struktur bleibt offen, was für eine hervorragende Luftzirkulation sorgt. Gelato 33 präsentiert sich kompakter, aber mit dichten, gleichmäßigen Blütenansätzen entlang aller Triebe. Ihre Tops sind etwas kleiner, wirken aber extrem harzreich. Die Blätter bleiben sattgrün und vital, keine Anzeichen von Nährstoffstress oder Überdüngung. Nach dem Entfernen des Netzes stehen beide Pflanzen stabil – die Struktur hält von selbst. Die Tropfbewässerung läuft konstant und gleichmäßig, Drain-Kontrolle regelmäßig durchgeführt. Nährstoff-Setup: • 💧 Canna Coco A + B → 8 ml/l • 📈 EC 1.7 pH 6.0 • 🌡️ Temperatur: 25–26 °C Tag / 21 °C Nacht • 💧 Luftfeuchtigkeit: 45–50 % • 💨 Umluft: stark, freie Bewegung im Zelt Der Grow läuft stabil, semi-hydroponic durch das Tropfsystem. Das Wurzelwerk profitiert von der stetigen Sauerstoffzufuhr, was sich in starkem Blütenwachstum zeigt. Ab jetzt beginnt die spannende Phase – Dichte, Duft und Harz nehmen mit jedem Tag zu.

well i never thought this plant would take so long to mature but here it is, finally at a spot that I can flip it into flower. next need to clean her all up.

Day 57: #1 has been successfully transplanted to a 10gal smartpot. We used ocean forest soil and happy frog mixed at a ratio of 1:3. It has higher p&K and were getting ready for flower Day 59: #2 is still in the 3gal pot of happy frog. She isn't showing any signs of nutrient deficiency or stress and because of size restrictions I think I'll leave her in this pot. Day 61: watered with real growers recharge today. 1st time watering since transplanting #1. And she seemed to be okay. We have decided to start watering every day and not for run off.i cant get a good routine and sometimes they get bone dry. So to avoid that we will water a couple cups every day and allow 36hrs of drought 1x a week. Day 63: Pulled the girls out for a photo OP tonight 😁 also we watered #2. Then we did a mild defoliation because the new optic 8+ arrived today!!! The entire tent is set for flower!! I will be starting flower tomorrow morning and also be taking clones from these girls as well so we can get some good info logged on how the Choc mint clones too! Week recap: 2x optic 8 LEDs for 1000 true watts 60%-70% dehumidity at all times 73°-83° tent temps all times Happy frog soil Real growers recharge Ac Infinity t8 fan with carbon filter Dehumidifier Several oscillating fans 8,00btu portable air conditioner

The veg cycle was shorter than i usually like to have a plant go through, due to time restrictions for the Bubba Cheesecake Diary grow-off, but it still did fantastic in my mind! Three months in veg under high-octane light and 11 1/2 weeks in flower have let this plant turn into a dreadlocked group of nugs. Three main colas, but lots of burnable flower to enjoy once the dry is finished. I did a light LST with a decent amount of defoliation throughout the plant's life. I like to open up the middle area of the plant and let as much light as possible hit as many branch and potential flower nodes as possible. This way, i don't need to lollipop as many branches and as much foliage as i would if i didn't do this. Plus, the candelabra look is b-e-a-Utiful, in my opinion. Light intensity through veg ranged from 40% as a fresh seedling to around 55% the week before i put it into the bloom room. Once it was in the bloom room, the intensity was set at 50% for the first couple weeks to allow for a decent stretch. After that, i think i recorded the light intensity in my diary notes for each week. But, just in case i didn't, I bumped up the intensity by a few percent every 3 days until i hit 100%. Once i got to MAXIMUM POWER, i left it there until harvest. Water was natural well water that tests out at 7 pH. I always added BuildABloom to the water, never the soil, when i used it. Same with Dr. Earth's 1-2-1 tea concentrate. Other than those instances, it was just straight water that i was giving to the plant. Grow rooms are both about 4'x8'. Lights are still budget lights: -IMVSincere BC100(x3) for veg (Link: https://www.amazon.com/IMVSINCERE-Spectrum-High-Performance-Greenhouse-Hydroponic/dp/B095C2DLH5/ref=asc_df_B095C2DLH5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563646983247&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=540375076791862758&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005737&hvtargid=pla-1602626531718&psc=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw__ihBhADEiwAXEazJgD4ugog9JhrBxNShAvyxL7mk9FZTcqD8voe6_dtA20JctuC5Q9qvBoCD7oQAvD_BwE ) Abriselux A1500(x2) for flower (Link: https://www.amazon.com/Abriselux-Dimmable-Coverage-Upgraded-Hydroponic/dp/B08V1FM9V2/ref=asc_df_B08V1FM9V2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507792239689&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17954986133471144655&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005737&hvtargid=pla-1213853152075&psc=1 ) All in all, this was one of the most enjoyable cultivars I've grown inside since i started indoor grows in September 2022. I'm definitely going to try and get more seeds off of my brother, as well as buy some more seeds to pheno-hunt through! Thank you, @Seedsman , for running this contest. I would have never tried this cultivar out if it wasn't for you giving me a little incentive!

Week 1 (23-29/01) During this week I will feed the plants with tap water and only 2 ml of Bio-Grow. I will also dimmer the light down to 30% because, being it at 20cm from the plants, I want to avoid burning them. The fan will be on 4 hours/day. By means of the inkbird thermostat I will control the heating/cooling system. Inkbird parameters will be: 23.5°C with -3°C for heating and +2°C for cooling. 23/01 D1: preparing the pots. A layer of gravel surronded by light-mix by BioBizz. Planted the three sprouts. 24/01 D2: added a support to each plant to avoid the fall due to the weight. Provided a glass of fresh water (25cl) to each of them. 25/01 D3: - 26/01 D4: watering day. Added 2ml of Bio-grow to 1.2l of tap water (approximately 40cl of water each plant). 27/01D5: - 28/01D6: watering day. Approximately 50cl of tap water to each plant. Powered on the fan. 29/01D7: -

Stacking up on my plant genetic options for mothers and what to grow out green house diary coming soon with some of these plants. I ready for ethos genetics to enter my tent and green house

Getting there! Continuing to feed her Pride Lands Flower and GreenGro flower finisher. Add seaweed, humic acid and silica to the water. I’m thinking one more feeding and then just water and blackstrap molasses. I sure am going to miss this girl

This week i decided to scrog my ladies. I guess the next days I've to lollipop 'em the last time. The growth is also lookin' pretty decent guys. So stay tuned.

So were on day 26 of flower there looking good getting a nice smell starting to throw out trichomes Have down loaded a thew videos of before and after removing fan leaves

Hola familia, confieso, está genética es de mis favoritas, y no solo por lo fácil que es su cultivo. Esta variedad con predominancia indica, se está comportando muy bien en nuestro interior. Controlando el ph y alimentándolas bien, no tienen por qué suponer ninguna complicación en su ciclo. En floración procuramos que jamas suba la humedad por encima del 50% ni que la temperatura sea muy elevada, podemos falicitar la formacion de hongos... y no queremos eso. Resumiendo, bastante contento con la evolución de las Lemon kush. Hasta la próxima semana familia.

🍃

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

All started to flower and the stretch begins! Lost a few tops with training. I will opt for just topping instead of LST (too time consuming) Will start slowly dropping nitrogen and increase phosphorous and potassium with some molasses! Last two shots are of last bit of LST and leaf tucking/defoliating

Week 8 Veg. Moved to groom this week. Getting ready to flower in a week or 2. Switched from Cfl lights to 2x 315cmh

This was the runt of the bunch from the beginning and started flowering a week before the others. Seemed like in veg it didn't have enough nitrogen (yellow/green leaves) and in flower it had too much causing the bottom new leaves to grow kinda mutated and dark green. Even with those issues she still packed on solid dense buds covered in trichomes. pulled off 253 grams wet after trimming and 57 grams of trim will update with dry weight when ready

Just topped of for this week. This is the last week of late bloom. Smell is super strong. Mees to research how to train better next grow I think I will focus on more main stems to achieve better airflow