***day 8 (17/11) - mix nourish nutes 5ml (4-0-1) with 500ml of ph balance water. ***day 9 (18/11) ^^DAY^^ temp 28'c-29'c hd 50-55% ^^night^^ temp 25'c-28'c hd 55-65% -thats basically my daily temp and hd..did nothing today...soil is still damp from yesterday watering. second set of true leave starting to be more obvious. **day 10 (19/11) -mixing and water it 500ml of ph 6.5 water with 5ml noursh and 2.5ml growth. Bought a new fan..now Temp and HD are more stable..temp around 25-26'C, HD around 60-65% **day 11 (20/11) -raise the led to 60cm from plant because i think it looks overheat. and also might over water it..will stop watering til its dry. **day 12 (21/11). -3 leave are getting obvious.this morning check temp are perfect 27'C...humidity is 66%..kinda improve because one of the two fan is broken...but temp are still manageable. after increasing led height, leaf color improve a bit. today I increase it again to 70cm.. growth are still slow for me. **day 13 (22/11) -grew a bit..today my humidifier came..so i diy an icevream box for the humidifier reservoir. TEMP tonight 27'C, HUMI 65%. **day 14 (23/11) -last day of second week. 2ND set of tru leave are becoming more bigger and the 3rd set starting to see.

Beans have been wetted for the 2021 grow season. Show starts in a couple days, stick around. No experience with this breeder or this cultivar.

WATCH THE VIDEO ABOVE!! NEW GROWING ROOM!!! 12x5 flowering 73 day temp/68 night temp 5x5 veg 78 day temp / 76 night temp MIDDLE OF WEEK 6 FLOWER🌹 This week has been pretty steady starting to see the Purple coming out of the BLUEBERRY and KOSHER KUSH with hugeeee amounts of TRICHOMES gripping to these flowers!! You can tell that the girls are going to be top shelf and have some beautiful bag appeal we got a couple more weeks until harvest .. BUT one of the KOSHER KUSH is going to need a week or 2 extra to bulk up her fruits . I’m starting to see that one of the kosher kush is starting to get yellow leaves working from the bottom up.. a sign that my fruits are finally ripening 🍇🍍

~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ ❤️💡🌱😽💨 2nd week of flower!! This strain is the best looking in the tent, color is perfectly uniform top to bottom. We stripped all plants heavy on the first day of flower because they were so large. We were hoping that this would control stretching some but these tower over the rest. Their node spacing looks prime for fat, intact main buds which always makes me happy. GSC used to be my favorite strain so I'm super eager to try this version 🐱🌱 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_

34 days. Looks like is doing fine…defoliation, a little bit of food, but mainly water. what do you think?

- Day 57 Watering day. Gave 3 Liters today, see how fast she'll drink that up. Day 59 Not much too report other than that the buds keep bulking up for now ^^. Day 61 Gave her another 2.5 liters today pot was fully dry after 4 days, so gave her a bit less this time. She smells great, very deep smell, almost smells like tobacco somehow, but sweet. Buds still have quite a few white pistils so she will still take a few weeks to finish I think. Day 63 Buds are definitely still bulking up 😍 definitely strong buds, very colorful and got a really nice smell going. I removed some yellowing leaves today and my fingers got stiiiiicky.

Keeping her alive this week 🤣 Day 106 16/08/24 Friday Big feed today using de-chlorinated tap water pH 6. Finally flipped her!! Day 107 17/08/24 Saturday Another watering today using de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only. Picture and video update ✌️ 💚 Day 109 19/08/24 MONDAY Another feed today using de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with Plagron products. Day 111 21/08/24 Wednesday De-chlorinated tap water today pH 6. Again 5L little run off.

Hey everyone 😃. This week is still going perfectly 😃👍. The trichomes have been checked (70% milky, 20% amber and 10% clear) so there is still some time until harvest :-). Let's start the week: Flowering day 56 Today the plant was checked for health. Flowering day 57 Today it was poured with 1.2 l, only with Clean Fruits so that you can use up your remaining nutrients 👍. Flowering day 58 The humidifier was refilled and the tent cleaned. Flowering day 59 Today was only controlled. Flowering day 60 The humidifier was refilled and the tent cleaned. Flowering day 61 Today was poured with 1 liter, and the trichomes checked, of course the tent was also cleaned. Flowering day 62 Today was cleaned, the plant cobtrolized for trichomes, mold and health. everything looks great 👍. And fresh osmosis water was filled in tanks for next week. The way the trichomes look like, is harvested in about 10-14 days 👌👍. Until the next update, I wish you all the best, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🍀👍 You can buy this Strain at https://www.barneysfarm.com/blue-cheese-34 You can buy the fertilizer at https://www.greenbuzzliquids.com/ Type: Blue Cheese ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blueberry X Original Cheese 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 - 0.4 EC. Add Cal / Mag 2 ml per l water every 2 waterings . Ph with Organic Ph - Pulver to 5.8 .

Was a tough last few weeks lots of work to be done big problem with humidity finally sourced a good enough dehumidifier and added another 1200 light. Lemon skunks were suppose to be autos but no signs of flowering yet so I'm forcing them with 12/12. No room left in the tent now because photos are going into flower too

Praying my girls are not all in different stages of dying 😭More to follow... 1/9/21 These girls were finally dry enough to water I weighed each post before and after watering. I am going to try weighing the pots and water when the weight is about half as dry.as I normally do. So Maybe I should water @ 3lbs heavier... somewhere between 8-9lbs 1/10 I changed the light cycle so that my "night time" is in the middle of the day for heating reason, so this morning when I woke up, after being under the lights for 18 hours I actually had growth on two plants. Gorilla Glue and my photo plant Chocoloope that is growing with the autos. They were both under the VIPARSPECTRA 2020 Pro Series P1000 LED Grow Light. The other two plants were under BLOOMSPECT Double Chips Series 1500W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum. I wish I hadn't made so many mistakes with this grow because I know there is no way to know if it is the light that made them grow better than the other two or they were just a little healthier. I don't think so because Gorilla Glue is the worst plant and she actually grew but who knows. Anyways I switched the plants around so they are under the opposite light when their day time starts and we will just have to see. PE Length 8' Height 7' Width 8.5" Dry weight 6lb 4oz Wet weight 13lb 11oz GG Length 8" Height 7" Width 8.5" Dry weight 5lb 14 oz- Wet weight 11lb NB Length 11" Height 10 " Width 10.5" Dry weight 6lb 9 oz Wet weight 12lb Choco Length " Height Width " Dry weight Wet weight 1/11/21 DAY 46S HELP if ANYONE SEES THIS .... last night I decided not to switch the plants around after all, but I did rearrange the tent because I had a plug running through door and I am still struggling to regulate the humidity and temp. I thought I still had good air circulation but apparently I did not and the plants are not happy. Gorilla Glue is not going to make it. She turned real dark green after watering her on Saturday, she had a small amount of growth Sunday but now all the leaves are laying down. I don't know if I should use Sledge hammer but after flushing a week ago letting her dry for a week and then watering Saturday I don't know if I flushed her with sledge hammer if that would finish her off or perk her back up. I weighed her and she was 4 pounds lighter than when I watered her on Saturday and still 2+ pounds lighter than when she is the driest. Some background on how I tried to kill my plants... 😭 I started this grow by watching a zillion videos with my key take away being 1-don't over water 2- don't transplant autos 3- don't feed full strength. I took it seriously, so my tiny little sprouts were put into 3 gallon pots of Fox Farm happy frog potting soil. (didn't realize this already had enough nutrients to last several weeks so I started nutrients in the 2nd week of Veg) I use Fox farm nutrients and follow their soil feeding schedule. I bought the Dirty Dozen starter kits and it did not have 2 products in that the feeding schedule but since they were not in the kit I assumed they must not be too important. They were.... Wholly Mackerel & Marine Cuisine fertilizer. I used a turkey baster to slowly drip a couple ounces of water around each plant I water just like in this picture. https://prnt.sc/wjq0gi for over a month. I didn't realize by watering like this for a month that I was making the nutrients build up just below the the root line each watering. I waited to water till the plants were very dry. Now looking back Way way to dry before watering. I am sure that is why they were not growing. I was only giving them enough to stay alive not thrive. So a little more back info Day 14 I watered the plants with plan water Day 23 after not having to water the plants for 9 days I watered them, 1/4 gallon each with week 2 schedule, with the addition of calmag+(2-0-0) @ 50% strength Day 27 they were light and needed to be watered and they had grown a little. so I gave them nutrients same as above Day 30 The plants were not quit as dry as usual but I was beginning to think I was underwatering them so I gave them 1/2 gallon of THIS IS WERE IT ALL GOES WRONG...(Actually after reviewing my grow journal just now my problems started Day 1 and was showing signs I just didn't know it and I still am not sure how to fix any of it Almost makes me think I should scrap it all and start over. These poor plants will be lucky to produce anything) Someone could seriously use my grow journal as a "everything not to do" guide. Day 35 since the plants were finally big enough to soak the pots fully. I also decided since they had used 1/2 gallon water in 3 days and they grew a ton I upped the nutrients to full strength and the calmag plus as well. This was the first time I had any runoff sadly I let the plants sit in the runoff and reabsorbed all the runoff. Day 38 Flushed each plant with with 5 gallons of tap water that had a PH of 6.4 & water temp was 62 degrees. My run off started at 4300ppm with a ph of 6.2. The PH was consistent in every plants runoff and all of them had off the chart PPMs. I brought NB down to 250ppm. Gorilla Glue and Pineapple express I brought the runoff down to 450. For some reason I decided that since my plants were probably in shock from no water and nutrients to more water and a whole lot of nutrients and I figured flushing them would reset the soil and I reasoned they would need food after not getting any from being in shock so I gave them each a half strength nutrients. I waited a full week then posted this question. Day 45 I have each plant plain water and checked the run off. The Gorilla Glue had a run off of 584ppm with a ph of 6.47 , The northern lights X had 750ppm and 6.38ph pineapple express had 1170ppm runoff so I ran a less less than an extra half gallon of water and that brought the ppm down to 706. PH was 6.3. I have a photo period that I didn't add to this dairy but has been with these plants and it is starting to show the same signs as the others they are just all in different phases of whatever I did to almost kill them. I started the next week on Friday so I will be adding pictures and a couple videos I took from today in my grow dairy tonight. I don't know what to do next.

24/12 Switched to 12/12. Let’s go! Need to reduce humidity, which hits 80-90% at night (daily about 60-70%)! Ordered a dehumidifier.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Last auto i'll grow , autos are actualy good for fast and not so heavy stoners , my yield is good but not the way i want it , so i'll keep improving my shit , starting with femenised seeds next run also a blueberry , first femenised im going to use , so lets hope it will have a better harvest. Overall this autoflower blueberry yielded the most of all my autoflowers , dense buds , good quality and very fruity smoke!

Had big fires and power outages lately. The first big power outage seemed to put the og in flower and the second to both of the NLs. Learning a lot! Got a good humidifier that will hold stat. It was always 15% or lately a few times, 100%. Don't want either of those too long. Got a new pump watering can with 4L capacity, which is much better than the family cookware. Had to trim the bottom leaves of one of the NLs due to lack of sustanance, which i didn't want to but looks good now. Went to 18 hours light, like the call. Added a lil 30 watt LED grow fixture for fun. Got a new floor fan and added one to the ceiling. Around 300 Watts at full blast. I like growing such challenging beauties. Now just wondering if i should dry in this tent. I might have to.

Next week i will add some more bat mix to the textile bags and a week later the first bloom nutrients because if flipped the time to 12-12 from Sunday 26-2.

All good :) very frosty and smells so good. She‘s so happy. At day 35 end of week 4 approaching week 5, i flush her to remove salt buildups since i didn’t had runoff the entire grow ever. She has crazy 2.6EC run off the ph is on the spot though. So lets see how will she react after heavy flush with runoff 1.6EC by week 5. i am now lowering my nuts half of the manufacturers recommendation.

Day 29- First day of Week 5. Topped all 4 plants today. Plants growing great! Noticed a "skin or film" on the stems that looks like it's shedding. Watering with spring water 1 gallon pH-6.5 @ 72° F. Sprayed water on the tops and bottoms of the leaves as well. Day 32- Watered a tiny bit, but ran out of water. Day 33- Wateres with 3ml/gal of cal-mag and 1/2 tsp/gal of recharge. Plant C has brown spots. Day 34- Plants have some weird colors but still growing good. First day of 18/6 light cycle.