Likes
3
Share
Such a fun run by Barney Farms Gorilla glue Gelato Auto...gonna be
Likes
3
Share
. đŸŒ± : 💧 : 4l day 64, 4l day 68 💡 : Dli: 45 mol/mÂČ/d đŸ€” :
Processing
Likes
3
Share
Smoked those buds I chopped off last week, lovely high, long lasting. Really strong diesel smell. The bottom half of the try is drying up, a couple of branches were completely dry, others had a bit of dry buds. I've removed those dry branches and will be adding a question to try to understand what is going on with those branches. I had the same thing on the Peach Puree CBD and was told it was because of wrong watering, some roots drying up but I doubt this is the case here, she was watered well and not drying up, she also has some mulch on top and can't see that the pot is drying up she is also drinking very little water. Another theory could be because the light isn't reaching those lower branches, so they are giving up. Did some defoliation on the top part too, buds are growing well, can't wait for her to finish already.
Likes
11
Share
Here we are at the beginning of week 3 and the babies are thriving :). This Cherry Cola is growing well and things are as i would expect at the end of week 2/start wk3. I’m going to be starting LST at some point this week .
Likes
79
Share
-Sensi Seeds Research: The Sensi Seeds Research breeding project has created eleven cannabis seed varieties. How? By combining new cannabis cultivars with a selection of strains from their long-established cannabis gene bank. For the first time in thirty-six years, they are opening the doors of the Sensi Seeds Research and Development Department. Week #16, week #8 of Flowering : The #741 are done ! They’re good to harvest. #1318 is just right behind for the Indica’s phenotypes and are ready to harvest. The Sativa phenotype might need another 10 days to go. Shiva Skunk is definitely ready too The Northern Lights needs another 10 days Super Skunk will be ready at the end of next week Black Domina needs a few more days #11 is a 9 weeks Flowering period ( smells like Sensi Seeds got his own Bad Azz strain now 😊 ) Next week will probably be the last week for this crop. And this week was the last feeding week for the late ones. I had to back up the Mars-Hydro SP 250 a lil bit further, the plants right under the light were showing some reversed leaves. I’m really happy with this crop, I would strongly recommend those new genetics as much as the old school ones. ( I’m looking for a job in the Cannabis industry as Master Grower, Mineralogist, Quality Control 🐞 )
Likes
13
Share
2022-10-30 The Seed was gifted to me by my Growmie @Oimrausch thy Buddy! She was growing from beginning very well Turned out to a strong well structured Plant Buds are dense and Thick, she smells super This Run was one of my Best, I feel iam reaching good Levels in the Growingconditions VPD, Wind, and Fertiliser helped the Genetics to show what they got!---- Especially to mention are the Hyphotonflux HPF-4000. All Plants responded very well to the Lightspectrum
Likes
28
Share
@Bongman
Follow
Into week three of flowering: - Need to up CalMg this week cause all my last grows with this strain the plants were stressing and showing signs of Mg deficiency I think. - The buds are stacking up pretty tight. - The top of the plant is showing some red veins AGAIN, don't know if it is genetics? Or is it too much light? ANY SUGGESTIONS? - Usually what happens is that after week three top of plant will show red veins and some leaves will turn light green yellow. What type of deficiency is this? Thanks in advance for the help. Happy growing, BM 4TwenTee *****Update on LIGHT STRESS:***** Okay I think I got this figured out. Since my plant is showing the following symptoms: - Slow yellowing of top of cannopy - Fan leaves pointing up in a steep angle - Leaves are tacoing up a bit with sharp pointy serrated leaves pointing up - Veins are turning purple and some leaves are showing green veins and yellowing of outer part of the leaf REASONS FOR THE SYMPTOMS: - Since the light is too close to the top of the canopy, although my light is running at around 60% and it is at least a meter away from the light. I think because this was a mother and basically she is accustomed to top canopy PAR of around 180-220 and she was measuring around 600PAR so that is just too much for the plant to handle. So I've lowered the light output so the top canopy is around 420 PAR. - Also my humidity is pretty high at around 72% so I lowered it to around 65% - The reason why the leaves are tacoing up to the light is because the canopy cannot take the high PAR, the temp at the top of the canopy is only 76F so that is acceptable, but the plant is trying the sweat due to the high PAR, but because the humidity was also too high it was not sweating as much as it should. - The reason why a light stressed plant shows different deficiencies eg. magnesium and phosphate is due to the "extra sweating" that takes place, cannabis plants don't choose what they intake, if they need more water to sweat, extra nutrients will be absorbed and this will lockout some of the other nutrients in the solution. **End of week update: Tried multiple changes but still no luck on getting rid of red leaf stem. - Added a 1 hour sunrise and sundown light regiment - Decreased Humidity to 65% from low 70's - Top of canopy PAR decreased from 600 to 350. Leaves red stems still not going away and top of canopy still trying to get rid of moisture with fan leaves pointing up. If anyone can chime in that would be great thanks.
Likes
12
Share
Likes
9
Share
4/15 Fighting a soil pH issue. Learned I made some crucial mistakes this entire grow that compounded week after week until a few days ago and I have complete lockout. I was feeding every watering (rookie mistake). I tested runoff and it was at 1800ppm and 3.5 EC, I have done lots of flushing and got soil to an acceptable level of 800ppm and 1.5-1.6 EC. But my soil pH is testing around 4 and will not come up. I have watered with baking soda and it up near 4.5-4.6 now but I have flushed so much over last 3 days I can't stress the plant anymore. Leaves on the bigger plant are rust spotted everywhere and dying off. I will prob lose plant disappointing since it's so far along. I will still yeild something from it but had this not happened this plant would have been great it's super stinky and sticky right now and buds are dense but would have really stacked on and produced had this not happened. Other plant is chugging along its got same soil issues but showing no signs of stress yet. 4/16 Soil pH is still super low on the sick plant and continues to decline, I watered both plants with baking soda water and was able to get the healthier plants soil to 5.8ph. In a last ditch effort to salvage the sick plant, I cut off the fabric pot and transplanted to a planter I had with double the soil capacity. There were no roots stuck to the walls of fabric pot, the base had some but overall I caused very little damage to root system. I watered again with baking soda water and it's now at 4.4ph the fresh soil I put in planter was 6.8 and immediately after watering the new soil tested down to 4. I'm hoping I can get some leaching of buildup from the old soil to the new and get it balanced quickly. I was able to get both plants soil testing around 5.8ph and out of the extreme acidity. There are some spots here and there that are testing a little lower. The healthier plant was showing the slightest spotting all over today, I watered it to about 20% runoff with calmag. Hopefully neither plant get any worse. 4/17 repotting the plant seemed to help tremendously, it really frosted up and seems to have resumed flowering. The other plant seems to be about a 7-10 days behind. 4/20 Bigger plant has really taken on a purple hue, pistils are appx 15-20% turned. Other plant seems to be 7-10 days behind, this is the plant that was over watered in the beginning and was stunted.
Likes
44
Share
**EncontrarĂĄs la traducciĂłn a español al final de la descripciĂłn** From/Desde: 22/03/19 || To/Hasta: 28/03/19 From day/Desde dĂ­a: 29 || To day/Hasta dĂ­a: 35 You can find the Money Maker Diary here: ** PodĂ©is encontrar el diario de las Money Maker aquĂ­:** https://growdiaries.com/diaries/25667-gorillamakingmoney-gorilla-vs-money-m -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- Video 1: Exactly the same video as 2 but accelerated +400% to fix it to 1 minute for instagram. Video 2: 7 days (29~35) TimeLapse, 1 image each 60 secs @ 30 fps Video 9: An overview video not as awesome as it's music 😂đŸ’Ș Video 10: Myself working on the babies, lowering tops, topping & training. Video 12: Full working on the secondary Gorilla, twisting some branches, topping & training. -----WEEK SUMMARY----- Well, now i'm getting a bit scared as i adventured myself into Photoperiod, high training, full topping... in indoors at once. I feel that plants are going good, but i really don't know what am i doing, and if i'm doing well. Also i don't know how much time should i give them of vegetation stage, because i don't want to eternalize myself with this tent, so i'm planning to leave this upcoming 6th week and maybe the 7th of vegetation, but no more. Anyway they look pretty atm đŸ˜». In video 10 the main-linning Gorilla suffered an accident as i grabbed the main left branch from a weak point and it has broken (sec 39 aprox.) so it has one less node than the right branch. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 24/03/19 - 1.000 ml with all week nutrients @ 0.9 E.C. PH5.8 *****ESPAÑOL***** -----IMÁGENES & VÍDEOS----- VĂ­deo 1: TimeLapse, exactamente el mismo vĂ­deo que el 2 pero acelerado a un poco mĂĄs del 300% para ajustarlo a 1 minuto para Instagram. VĂ­deo 2: 7 dĂ­as (29~35) TimeLapse, 1 imagen cada 60 segundos @ 30 fps. VĂ­deo 9: Un vĂ­deo general no tan increĂ­ble como la mĂșsica de fondo 😂đŸ’Ș. Video 10: Trabajando en las pequeñas, rebajando las alturas, haciendo topping y entrenando. Video 12: Trabajando a pleno en la segunda Gorilla, girando algunas ramas, haciendo toppings y entrenĂĄndola. -----SUMARIO SEMANAL----- Bueno, ahora estoy empezando a estar asustado. Me he aventurado a probar con fotodependientes, entrenamiento fuerte y super topping, todo a la vez. Siento que las plantas van bien, pero realmente no se lo que estoy haciendo ni si lo estoy haciendo bien. TambiĂ©n tengo dudas sobre cuanto tiempo mĂĄs dejarlas en estado vegetativo ya que no me quiero eternizar con este armario, por lo que estoy planeando dejar esta sexta semana de crecimiento y quizĂĄs una sĂ©ptima, pero no mĂĄs. Aun asĂ­ y con todo, las nenas se ven preciosas đŸ˜». En el vĂ­deo 10 sufro un accidente en la Gorila con main-linning ya que amarrĂ© el final del tallo principal izquierdo por un punto dĂ©bil y este se partiĂł (sec 39 aprox.), por lo que tiene un piso de topping de mĂĄs en comparaciĂłn con tallo derecho. -----CALENDARIO DE RIEGO----- 24/03/19 - 1.000 ml con todos los nutrientes semanales @ 0.9 E.C. PH5.8
Likes
49
Share
6/15. Glad I listened to my intuition and held off watering. IT Rained andctheb again last night. Plants seem to be doingvreal well. Slight burn on lower leaves where it was before from being in the garage and I found on spot that LOOKED like it could've been caused by a pillar but it's right on a burn. I sefoliated one leaf. This is minor stuff. Next watering I'll be adding silica. I'm not giving nutes until the plants tell the need them. The 3 gallon ones may receive nutes first as they'll run out. I'll update as I progress. Went back over at 8:30. It's just overcast with showers. Plants seemed to like it. They all look good. Noticed a chunk out of a leaf and a POSSIBLE pillar spot. I'm going to have to get the BT out and and give the girls an application. I'm waiting until they settle in a bit more though. I need to start LST as well AND the light dep. Unfortunately "life" has made things difficult. I'll get back over there today though and I'll start the light dep. Kinda makes me wonder though. The 1pth planet I wanted to light deo is tge same size as the others in the much bigger containers. The thought came that maybe I should just hold on to them as extras in case something happens. I also am going to start silica next watering but it will be a few weeks before any nutes are given. UPDATE: WENT BACK OVER AT FIVE AND TOOK ACSHOT TON OF PICTURES. IM TRYING TO UOLOAD NOW. THINGS ARE POPPING OFF AND IM GETTING A NICE SWEET SKUNKY ODOR. WHILE I WASCTHERE WE GOT A QUICK SHOWER. DIDNT LAST MORE THAN TEN MINUTES BUT IT RAINED HARD. I FOUND A TEMPORARY SPOT TO LIGHT DEP THE TWO PURPLE PUNCH AND THE ONE TENTH PLANET. I DONT SEE ANY LIGHT LEALS AND ITS SURE AS HELL DARKER THAN IT IS AT NIGHT. I'LL SEE HOW IT GOES LEQVING THE COVER ON ALL NIGHT. IF IT DOESNT WORK I MAY JEED TO ADD A FAN OR CHANCECTHE SPACE. I ALMOST DIDNT WANT TO DO THIS AS THE 10TH PLANET IS KEEPING PACE WITH ITS SISTERS, DESPITE THE SMALLER POT. OH WELL I WANT TO GIVE IT A SHOT AND I DONT WANT MY CAGE OVER CROWDED. I'M LOOKONG TO DO A 6:30 TO 6:30 SCHEDULE. 6/16 First night of light dep for the three little ones. I won't be able to call them that soon. I'm currently trying to upload a video. My grow buddy mentioned the droopiness of a couple of my plants in this video and how I hadn't been watering. This kinda scared me so I ran over and checked the too few inches on the two that had a little droop and came out dry. I had some water already phed ready to go (I'm hoping that the ph doesn't change if it's stored a day or two) and used the gallon to moisten the dry topsoil. Looking back over my diary we have had nothing but rain. I then tried the "lift the pot method" and came to the conclusion that these bags were indeed still holding moisture. I assumed they would be considering the thunderstorms we've had. I held off on fullt watering because the weather said the next dry day is going to be Monday. Today is Friday so thats two solid days of rain. Three if you count today through the night. I concentrated my watering of the one gallon on the couple plants that appeared to droop. If it doesn't rain like they say it will I will need to water. I need to set up a decent watering schedule but I need it to hold off raining long enough to do so. UPDATE: I WENT BACK OVER AND PUT THE 3 GALS IN FOR BED AND CHECKED OUT THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I WATERED THE 3 GAL GIRLS A LITTLE MORE SINCE THEY WONT BE OUTSIDE. THE BIT OF WATER I GAVE SEEMED TO HELP LIFT SOME OF THE GIRLS. AT LEAST I THINK IT DID. THE RAIN SHOULDVE COME ALREADY. I WOULDVE WATERED MORE HAD THE BAGS NOT BEEN SO HEAVY. 6/17 Rained all night which is good. Brought the three transplants out but left them under the overhang so they. Dont get soaked. So far light depoing is going good. Well its only been two nights but we'll see. I'll update as I go. Not feeling well today. Went back over and checked on the plants and did a video. Probably won't get uploaded until tomorrow. I'm giving it a shot. It's raining in good shape. Plants looked fine when I was there. I need to get my supports and my trellis in place. Video won't upload. No suprise. I'll get it tomorrow. 6/18 Uploaded videos if they fuck up from me editing I'm gonna be pissed. Anyway it's still pouring with high winds. I added a couple supports where it looked like it needed it. I need to put my trellis up. I've been able to keep up with the light dep and those plants haven't been used and abused. They stay in the building facing the sun when the weather is this bad. I think they're looking great. I may start a new diary just for them. Sun came out around four. Trying to upload a couple videos but doesn't look like it's going to happen. Tucked the three little ones in at six. It had stopped raining and the wind died down some. If adverse conditions create good plants then I'm on the way to a great harvest. Minor bleaching and burns on a few lower fan leaves and some wrinkling on some from wind burn other than that plants seem to be acclimated. Did a video but will have to wait until tomorrow to upload 6/19 It's not raining! We got four inches this past storm lol. Having the bags raised on pollens I believe has greatly helped. As did the high winds that help dry the soil in the bag. Had to add a few temporary supports. Light dep is going good. Adjusted amd found a better spot. I'm considering getting "pool noodles" or some other thing like a Hulu hoops or pvc pipe and making either a frame on the roof for the entire cage or on top of each individual plants posts so I could roll clear plastic over it when it rains. I'm thinking about later on in the fall when this could really help. I found a roll of plastic. Also thought about putting that up on the back wall but I didn't. What I'm doing right now is working. I just need to keep up with it. I also need a solid watering schedule to stick too. It's hard when each plants needs are different. Oh well. I'm just happy to be growing again. I pray to the cannabis gods and the Lord above himself that I'm not plagued with the problems of last year. 6/20. I'm sick as fuck but I got the little girls out in the sun. Light dep is going good. Plants look great. I'll update when I feel better and if I do anything. Still feel like shit. Luckily I looked up just in time to get to the grow and put the little ones to bed. They were thirsty (especially the bushy 10th planet so I gave them about 3/4 of a gallon of water. Got lots of run off from 10th planet. Didn't notice as much from the others but I was hurrying. I'll upload later. Still sick. 6/21 Plants seem to be doing great. I removed some lower growth on a few just to see how they respond. I'm going to do some defoliation down low and I want to see how the plants respond. I'm planning my first full watering Thursday as we have a real good stretch of weather after that. Grow bags are still heavy as hell so they have sufficient water. I'll be adding silica nextcl watering. Not time for nutes but I think it would be okay to start the silica and in another week I might start small doses of nutes. The light dep on the little girls is go8ng great! It's cool I'll get to sample some of these strains before fall. I'll update after I do something. Tucked the girls in at 6. I might need to think about transplanting that 10th planet in the 3 gallon. I watered until runoff yesterday and it's light as hell today. Plus I fimked it and it's bushy as hell. I've Bern turning it si it gets all angles of the sun. I have a bag of 707 left and a 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled all over it like an air pot and a ten gallon grow bag. This will take some thought. Hot af today. I wad able to lift the grow bags so I decided tomorrow will be the girls first real watering. I think I'll be adding silica and possibly kelp me kelp you due to the heat stress I've been noticing. Nothing bad just a few tacoed leaves. I've had several people that have seen my grow in person tell me that this is by far the healthiest (not biggest I've had bigger) but by farcthe healthies5 crop I've grown. They believe I'll have my best year ever this year. I hope they are right. Vid won't be uploaded until tomorrow. 6/22 WATERED TODAY. I'm still a little gun shy with watering. That fusarium last year pretty much traumatized me. I left the container plants alone. I gave them a little water but not enough to do much. I used a pump sprayer on a mist setting and went one by one and back around gently watering the entire medium. This took forever and I'll be finding a different way to water. I hope this was enough water. I'll check later on and if they look like they want more I give it to them. I started LST on the light dep 10th planet and tucked some branches of a another under the tomato cage. I had missed that earlier. I also went around and cleaned up the bottoms on most. Getting rid of things that will amount to nothing. I noticed what looked like thrip damage on ONE leaf on ONE plant. I also saw a chunk missing from a grasshopper bite and a finger of a fan leaf petiol was broken so I'm going to need to get my ipm up and running. I'm unsure whether I'll be using chemicals or predators. Probably BT and spinosad. That's what I've had the best luck with. I also noticed bottom leaves dying off on the bottom of a couple plants. It was where the burns were though so I'm almost 100% its just related to the light burns they got when i first put them up. I'll be updating the diary as I do more stuff.
Likes
33
Share
đŸŒ± Sour Apple⁠⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀ 🌾 flowering 9 weeks⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀ 💚 70% Indica, 30% Sativa⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀ 💣up to 27%⁠⁠ THC⁠⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀ 👅Apple, lemon⠀⁠⠀⁠⠀ ⚖ 550g/mÂČ⁠⠀ Sour Apple was created by an intersection of the original Sour Diesel and a Pure Kush. It is an indica dominant hybrid with a combination of both indica and sativa effects. It has an delicious intense taste of sour apples and lemon and a gigantic potency. The rockhard buds are covered in a thick layer of milky white trichomes and are packed with sweet resin. Users describe the high of the sour Apple as a strong mental shift, a uplifting head high that leaves you motivated and focused with a sense of overwhelming euphoria and social tendencies. This is followed by a slow fade into an intensely overwhelming couch-lock. Sour Apple sends her 27% of THC stright to your mind to kick you in other psychedelic spheres. We proudly present this unique goddess to all the growers in the world. GROWING SOUR APPLE When growing indoors it is a good idea using screen of green or sea of green methods. You can expect big yields of 500g or more per squae meter indoors, 700g per plant outdoors. The flowering time is 9-11 weeks. Indoors, Sour Apple is a vigorous grower with many side stems which can be trimmed to keep the plant in bounds. Indoors, the plants grow between 1,00-1,50 m depending on the introduction of the flowering phase, outdoors Sour Apple can reach four metres of hight. MEDICAL USE Because of its strong effects Sour Apple is an ideal strain for treating patients who suffer from conditions such as chronic stress or anxiety, chronic pain due to injury or illness, and sleep disorders (insomnia and sleep apnea). In low doses it is daytime suitable for medical applications, at higher doses, it is the ideal weed for medication at the evening.
Likes
65
Share
@Dendegrow
Follow
Welcome to week six! đŸŒ± Week five was a complete success – all parameters are perfectly aligned. I’ve increased the water conductivity to a solid 3000 and bumped the CO2 level up to 1200 🌿. Light intensity is now set at 1400 ”mol in the center and 1000 at the edges, which will keep the plants strong in their generative state 🌞. I’ll maintain these levels until the end of the third week and then start slowly removing the large fan leaves to ensure the buds get plenty of light 💡✹. I’m also trying something new to activate the “Emerson effect” 🌄: I’m running the deep red lights for 5 minutes before sunset and for another 5 minutes after the day ends. This should give the plants a final boost in photosynthesis, helping to maximize their growth potential! Everything’s looking fantastic so far! The Black Cherry has rooted well across different experimental setups, and at the end of the grow, I’ll provide a full report on the best care techniques for both strains đŸŒș👌. Willkommen in Woche sechs! đŸŒ± Die fĂŒnfte Woche lief perfekt – alle Parameter stimmen. Ich habe die LeitfĂ€higkeit des Wassers auf satte 3000 erhöht und den CO2-Gehalt auf 1200 angehoben 🌿. Die LichtstĂ€rke betrĂ€gt jetzt 1400 ”mol in der Mitte und 1000 am Rand, was dafĂŒr sorgen wird, dass die Pflanzen stark im generativen Zustand bleiben 🌞. Ich werde diese Werte bis Ende der dritten Woche beibehalten und dann langsam damit beginnen, die großen Sonnensegel zu entfernen, damit die BlĂŒten ordentlich Licht abkriegen 💡✹. ZusĂ€tzlich probiere ich etwas Neues aus, um den „Emerson-Effekt“ zu aktivieren 🌄: Ich lasse das tiefrote Licht 5 Minuten vor Sonnenuntergang und 5 Minuten nach dem Ende des Tages weiterlaufen. Das sollte der Photosynthese einen letzten Schub geben und das Wachstum der Pflanzen maximal fördern! Bis jetzt sieht alles fantastisch aus! Die Black Cherry ist in verschiedenen Versuchsreihen gut angewachsen, und am Ende des Grows werde ich einen ausfĂŒhrlichen Bericht darĂŒber abgeben, wie sich die beiden Sorten am besten pflegen lassen đŸŒș👌.
Likes
4
Share
@Papaganja
Follow
Was soll ich sagen bei mir ist jede Woche top habe einfach GlĂŒck nur die kleine wedingcake will nicht so recht los siht man im Video sonst ist mein Garten top in Schuß wie man sieht 😎🙏man hört sich bis dann
Likes
21
Share
HeyĂłkȟa I desire to study nature, and to know better the mind of God, the creator, Holy art thou, O Father. 12x12=144, A dodecahedron is a polyhedron with 12 faces, and in coordination chemistry, it refers to a geometry where ligands surround a central metal atom (in this case, Magnesium) in a specific, 8-coordinate arrangement. Dodecahedrane is a hydrocarbon, meaning it's composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms. The carbon atoms are arranged at the corners of a dodecahedron, a 3D shape with 12 pentagonal faces. The water molecules in the dodecahedron form hydrogen bonds that are individually slightly weaker than in either the dimer or the tetramer. However, because three-quarters of the O -H groups in the dodecahedron form hydrogen bonds, it has a more negative energy per molecule than has either the dimer or the tetramer. Magnesium (Mg2+) is the essential, central metal ion in the chlorophyll molecule, crucial for photosynthesis by enabling light absorption and energy transfer. It is chelated by four nitrogen atoms within the porphyrin (or chlorin) ring structure. Chlorophyll appears green because it reflects light in the green region of the visible spectrum, specifically between 490 and 570 nm. The main resonance electronic frequency of a neutral Magnesium (Mg) atom corresponds to the transition from the ground state to the first excited state. Resonance Line Wavelength of Mg2+: 285.1nm (UVB light). The central atom of the chlorophyll molecule is Magnesium (Mg2+), which is coordinated within a porphyrin ring. The electronic "resonance frequency" of this central atom—meaning the frequency at which its electrons absorb energy—is primarily driven by the electronic transitions (ETR) of the surrounding conjugated chlorin ring structure, rather than a discrete atomic transition of the Magnesium atom itself. The resonant electronic frequencies of the chlorophyll porphyrin (technically, a chlorin) ring are determined by the energy required to promote π-electrons within its conjugated system, primarily appearing in the blue and red regions of the visible spectrum. In standard physics, Chloryphyll b has peak absorption at 460nm (Blue). If we take the peak wavelength 460nm and a UV-B, UVR8 peak absorption wavelength 285nm Tryptophan-285 (W285) Sensing protein. 460/285=1.618 Ί, "natural harmony" and the "structure of light". The cryptochrome photoreceptor (CRY) is a UV-A/blue light receptor that shares this dual sensitivity with several other biological structures and functions, including significant sequence similarity and a common evolutionary ancestor with DNA photolyase enzymes. These are light-activated enzymes that use blue/UV-A light to repair DNA damage caused by UV-B radiation in plants. Dodecahedrane (C20H20) is a hydrocarbon with a cage-like structure where carbon atoms form 12 pentagonal faces (a regular dodecahedron). It is highly symmetric (icosahedral), contains no delocalized electrons (no aromaticity), and has minimal angle strain, but significant torsional strain. Water Dodecahedron (H2O) forms hydrogen-bonded cages. While individual hydrogen bonds in this structure are weaker than in the linear dimer or tetramer, it has a more negative total energy per molecule. This is because three-quarters (75%) of the groups are involved in hydrogen bonding, creating a very stable, closed-shell configuration. a 3D carbon hydrocarbon (C20H20) to stable water clusters in hydrate, while the Magnesium ion acts as the central activator within a conjugated ring in biological systems, with its electronic absorption dominated by the ring, not the atom itself. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΊPSII In horticultural lighting, adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Knowing is half the battle however, engineering or utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. Extend, then multiply. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΊPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΊPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Ί*co2), particularly in C4 plants. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΊPSII, represents the proportion of light absorbed by Photosystem II (ΊPSII) that is actually used in photosynthetic electron transport. It is a key indicator of how efficiently a plant is using light for photosynthesis, as opposed to losing it as heat or fluorescence. ΊPSII (effective quantum yield of photosystem II) functions primarily as a "multiplier" (a coefficient of efficiency) rather than an additive factor when estimating the overall photosynthetic electron transport rate (ETR). Multipliers are considered far more beneficial than additions because they generate exponential growth, leverage existing resources to their full potential, and create sustainable, self-multiplying capacity, rather than just incremental, linear increases. Humans, and most other mammals, rely on other mechanisms, such as nucleotide excision repair, to manage and repair UV-induced DNA damage. As such, humans do not have the direct, light-driven repair mechanism that photolyase offers in plants.