~ WEDDING CHEESECAKE FAST FLOWER by FastBuds ~ Well fam, here we go again with another epic strain from FastBuds Fast Flowering stable. After having such tremendous success growing their Gorilla Cookies Fast Flower outdoors last year, I've decided to run another of their fast flowering strains outdoors this year... Wedding Cheesecake Fast Flower! The best description of this awesome cultivar comes directly from my friends at FastBuds which is as follows: "A delight for the mind and body: Wedding Cheesecake FF (Fast-Flowering) is a delicious strain that offers XXL yields in a 7-8 weeks flowering cycle. This terpene powerhouse produces loads and loads of mouth-watering vanilla-creamy-cookie-scented terps with hints of citrus and cinnamon. In addition to its delicious aromas, this variety grows very well in both indoor and outdoor setups, yielding up to 650 g/m2 without extra maintenance, making it the ideal strain for beginners as it allows you to maximize yields while minimizing work. This super-fast feminized photoperiod version offers upbeat and energetic yet deeply relaxing effects that are perfect for consumers looking for a heavily focused, motivating, and creative high. It’s the ideal strain for those needing that extra energy boost to start a busy day on the right foot. Wedding Cheesecake FF boasts chunky, large-sized buds with a thick layer of silvery-white resin and bright orange hairs scattered all over: that just screams ‘quality’. The lime-green flowers sparkle with an array of hues ranging from dark to light green, to magenta and purple, and reek of a delicious aroma that’ll remind you of fresh store-bought cheesecake. This is an XXL hybrid that grows extremely tall in height, reaching up to 3m with one huge main cola and multiple long side branches that can withstand enormous yields of up to 650 g/m2 with ease. Wedding Cheesecake FF is extremely resilient to the elements and can be grown in almost every climate as long as you’ve got the space and basics covered, making her an excellent choice for those looking for large-scale harvests with a quick turnaround time without much effort." ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the Wedding Cheesecake FF indoors as our weather is still too cold to put her outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 30's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures stay above the mid 40's℉, at which point she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes, and then let the fun begin!🤪💚 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 5/10- Week Seven for the FastBuds Wedding Cheesecake Fast Flower and she is doing exceptionally well! Our weather has been rather cool and damp, with showers on and off every 2-3 days which has taken care of my watering chores. 5/12- I top dressed the Wedding Cheesecake FF today with 2 cups of Gaia Green 4-4-4 All Purpose and 1/2g of worm castings. After top dressing and working the amendmants into the soil, I watered it in via garden hose with well water. 5/14- Today I decided to begin training the Wedding Cheesecake FF through the trellis net. After being topped previously, the two shoots are approximately 8" long now and when I went to spread them apart to feed them through the trellis squares I inadvertently broke one of them almost completely off where it joined the main stem. I immediately taped it back in place and also secured it to the trellis net to give it an extra measure of stability. Fingers crossed 🤞I'll know by tomorrow if my tape job was a success, or if I am going to lose part of the plant. 5/16- Well, my tape job was a shining success!🤩 The Wedding Cheesecake FF exhibited zero stress from the injury and the broken branches leaves are all up and 'praying'! Seven weeks on the books for this lady and the fun has yet to begin... Stay tuned!🔥🔥🔥 Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! 💚Growers Love!💚😎🙏

FERMAKOR BARREL MIX – BASE IN USE (Testing on the Fantasy Feast girl we pulled out of another diary https://growdiaries.com/diaries/274722-grow-journal-by-yan402 ) (FERMAKOR BASE SYSTEM KOH VERSION diary https://growdiaries.com/diaries/278391-grow-journal-by-yan402) (Urea & Micros on the way — first week running without them) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 30 L Barrel – Current Working Mix 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 Step 1 – Calcium Nitrate (Part A) 7 L warm water (~35–40 °C) → added 45 g Calcinit, stirred until fully clear. That’s the calcium + nitrogen backbone for the feed. Step 2 – FERMAKOR PK Base (Part B) 15 L water in the main barrel → added 30 ml FERMAKOR PK Concentrate, mixed well. This forms the main P + K part of the formula. Step 3 – Combine Solutions Slowly poured the Calcinit mix into the barrel while stirring — no reaction, still crystal clear. That confirms the mix is stable and precipitation-free. 🌿 Step 4 – FPJ / FFJ Batch Added 30 ml homemade FPJ (fish + veg batch) ≈ 1 ml/L. Color shifted to a light-amber tone — looks alive and active. 🍋 Step 5 – Citric Acid Balance Added 1 tsp citric acid after everything was blended to fine-tune pH and help chelate micros later on. 📦 Step 6 – Top Up & Check Filled to the 30 L mark with plain water → pH tested with drops, showing yellow-green — roughly 5.8 – 6.0 range. Nice clean look, stable smell, no residue. 💧 Current Base Ingredients (Active Mix) Warm Water ≈ 22 L total Calcinit 45 g → N + Ca foundation FERMAKOR PK Base 30 ml → P + K support Citric Acid 1 tsp → Chelation + pH balance FPJ / Fish Emulsion 30 ml → Organic enzyme booster Result: clean amber mix, mild and balanced. I’ll let this version run for a week before adding anything. 👀👀👀👀👀👀 Observations and changes 👀👀👀👀👀👀 27.10.25 VW27 noticed some min burnt tips so I decreased Calcium Nitrate 45 to → 40g, decided to add two more elements micros and Epsom salts just to make sure they got everything, Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g, Epsom salts: 8 g 28.10.25 VW27 she seems devoid of any deficiencies, seems ready for the flip to 12/12 02.11.25 VW27 girl is looking good so I decided to stop making daily videos and do a standard once a week update. 09.11.25 aVW28 7 days since flip,stretch in full swing, first pistils showing, leaf color deep and healthy. Slight tip burn early week → gone after pH stabilized. Feed stayed clear, no residue, roots clean and sweet-smelling, did what I hope is a last cleanup and pruning🎥 10.11.25 VW29 added Phosphoric acid pH down to the schedule for flowering stage. 14.11.25 FW1 FERMAKOR PK Micros 40 → 50 ml 23.11.25 FW2 got some burnt tips, observe and act accordingly in case it worsens, diluted by 25% for this week. 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 🌿Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 23.11.25 FW1 – Fed 3l of #1 → 1l runoff 24.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 25.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 26.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 27.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 28.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 29.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 30.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30 L #1 Veg — FERMAKOR 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Calcium Nitrate (Calcinit / Nitcal): 45 g → 40 g → 35 g = 1.33 g/L → 207 ppm N + 253 ppm Ca = 1.17 g/L → 183 ppm N + 224 ppm Ca (current) 💧 PK Concentrate (FERMAKOR Base): 30 ml → 40 ml → 50 ml = 1.00 → 1.33 → 1.66 ml/L → balanced 1:1 P:K + light micros (from extract) 💧 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Fish + Veg): 30 ml = 1.00 ml/L Epsom Salt (MgSO₄·7H₂O): 8 g = 0.27 g/L → 26 ppm Mg + 35 ppm S 💧 Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g = 0.017 g/L → Fe 0.7 ppm • Mn 0.7 ppm • Zn 0.3 ppm • Cu 0.3 ppm • B 0.1 ppm • Mo 0.02 ppm Phosphoric Acid (pH down) + Citric Acid (chelation): → First set pH with phosphoric acid → Add a little citric only if extra chelation is needed 💧 Target pH: 5.8 – 6.0 (drop test yellow-green) 📦 TOTAL Inputs: 60 ml → 70 ml → 80 ml / 48.5 g per 30 L = 2.00 → 2.33 → 2.66 ml/L + 1.62 g/L (current) YouTube Link: https://youtube.com/-m8h?si=A7x4Zlr2kj-_ga31

2nd Week Report 24/10/19 - 31/10/19 25/10/19 I didn't flushed, but I filled the reservoir with 3l of 10% strength solution. Added to the current solution the same nutrients quantity as the first week (except for "Root Stimulator" and "Enzymes" that the first week were 20% strength and now got back to 10%). Now the reservoir should be filled with a 20% strength solution 29/10/19 - CMXL is 10cm height and it is growing really well along with his roots. - LSD is 6cm height and it is growing a little slower like his roots, but both of them look healty. I think in some days should start growing fast like CMXL Added 2 low frequency (113kHz) Ultrasonic Piezoelectric Discs: - One for the root chamber that should help with root expansion as it nebulize solution and the fog carries nutriments (like a small aeroponics integration) and will help my attempt of cloning. - One will stand in a 20% solution next to the plants to increase Humidity (and maybe feed them a little). I'll try to set them running 24/7 Switched water pump that sprays Rock Wool from 5sec every 30min to 6sec every 60min. Next week I plan to stop using the pump as "Top Feed" if roots will be well developed and probably I will use it as "Recirculation Pump" to keep nutrients in reservoir mixed better 30/10/19 Roots exposed to air inside reservoir got a little yellow after inserting the small fogger, so I will try to keep it 30/30 seconds ON/OFF. I will check next day if it's helpful to existing root o as root propagator for clone trial Topped CMXL and did a little of LST just by bending the main stem to expose the small growing next to fan leaves. The cutting was immediately dipped in a solution made by honey and Root Stimulation (the same I use for reservoir solution as it should contain rooting hormone), hoping it covers the cut like a gel and don't let the oxigen get in the cut until there will be some new growing. After that I put the cutting on the lid without any pot, as you can see in the picture some tape is covering the hole and it holding the topping. I covered it with a small jar to maintain humidity, hope to see some roots next week ;) I plan to fim LSD tomorrow if tonight grows enough 31/10/19 Filled the reservoir with 6L 20% strength solution and after that added 10% nutriment for 36L directly into the tote (like I did last week). Now nutrient solution inside reservoir should be 30% strength and it's ready for the 3rd week Pinched LSD Top with my fingers and applied LST by bending a little the main stem. Hope this FIMming works and returns better yield ;) Cloning trial didn't worked (I was expecting nothing, just a test), the cut part of the topping is already dry. I knew the topping was too short, next time if I try to clone his stem will be at lest 2cm Last Update 31/10/19 Next Update 03/11/19 with the next week See you guys ;)

Vamos familia segunda semana floración de estás Pink Runtz de RoyalQueenSeeds. Que ganas tengo de ver el progreso de esta variedad, las plantas están sanas, se ven con un color bien verde y espectacular. La cantidad de agua cada 48h entre riegos. Esta semana ya añadimos nutrientes de floracion estas próximas semanas veremos cómo avanzan. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Her leaves are being leached of all their nutes. We are approaching the end of this plants journey within the next week or two. Molasses and plain bottled water seem to be doing her great.

This grow was pretty simple ! They went a total of 103 days from seed! Very trichomy dense buds with the smell of Berries vanilla and skunk ! This is a must try for you all Fastbuds has the greats!!!

Green light is radiation with wavelengths between 520 and 560 nm and it affects photosynthesis, plant height, and flowering. Plants reflect green light and this is why they appear green to our eyes. As a result, some growers think that plants don’t use green wavelengths, but they actually do! In fact, only around 5 – 10% of green light is reflected from leaves and the rest (90 – 95 %) is absorbed or transmitted to lower leaves [1]. Green wavelengths get used in photosynthesis. Chlorophyll pigments absorb small amounts of green wavelengths. Light that doesn’t get absorbed is transmitted to leaves that are shaded out from direct light. This means that leaves at the bottom of the canopy get more green light than leaves at the top. A high proportion of green wavelengths compared to other colors tells lower leaves that they are being shaded out, so they are able to react accordingly. Lower leaves may react by opening or closing their stomata or growing longer stems that help the leaves reach brighter light [1, 2, 3]. When it comes to growing cannabis, many cultivators are interested in the quality of light used for the flowering stage. In many plants, flowering is regulated by two main photoreceptors: cryptochrome and phytochrome. Both photoreceptors primarily respond to blue light but can also respond to green, although to a lesser extent. Green can accelerate the start of flowering in several species (although cannabis has yet to be tested) [1, 4, 5]. However, once flowering has begun, it’s important to provide plants with a “full spectrum” light that has high amounts of blue and red light, and moderate amounts of green, in order for photosynthesis to be optimized. Green light mediates seed germination in some species. Seeds use green wavelengths to decide whether the environment is good for germination. Shade environments are enriched in green relative to red and blue light, so a plant can tell if it is shady or sunny. A seed that senses a shaded environment may stay dormant to avoid poor growing conditions [1]. Some examples of plant species where researchers have documented this response are: ryegrass (a grass that grows in tufts) and Chondrilla (a plant related to dandelion) [1, 6]. Although green wavelengths generally tell plants NOT to germinate, there are some exceptions! Surprisingly, green wavelengths can stimulate seed germination in some species like Aeschynomene, Tephrosia, Solidago, Cyrtopodium, and Atriplex [1, 6, 7]. Of course, light is not the only factor affecting seed germination – it’s a combination of many factors, such as soil moisture, soil type, temperature, photoperiod, and light quality. When combined with red and blue light, green can really enhance plant growth [1, 8]. However, too much green light (more than 50% of the total light) can actually reduce plant growth [8]. Based on the most current research, the ideal ratio of green, red, and blue light is thought to be around 1:2:1 for green:blue:red [9]. When choosing a horticultural light, choose one that has high amounts of blue and red light and moderate amounts of green and other colors of light. Not many studies can be found about the effect of green light on cannabis growth or metabolism. However, if one reads carefully, there are clues and data available even from the very early papers. Mahlberg and Hemphill (1983) used colored filters in their study to alter the sunlight spectrum and study green light among others. They concluded that the green filter, which makes the environment green by cutting other wavelengths out, reduced the THC concentration significantly compared to the daylight control treatment. It has been demonstrated that green color can reduce secondary metabolite activity with other species as well. For example, the addition of green to a light spectrum decreases anthocyanin concentration in lettuce (Zhang and Folta 2012). If green light only reverses the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, then why put green light into a growth spectrum at all? Well, there are a couple of good reasons. One is that green penetrates leaf layers effectively. Conversely red and blue light is almost completely absorbed by the first leaf layer. Green travels through the first, second, and even third layers effectively (Figure 2). Lower leaf layers can utilize green light in photosynthesis and therefore produce yields as well. Even though a green light-specific photoreceptor has not yet been found, it is known that green light has effects independent from the cryptochrome but then again, also cryptochrome-dependent ones, just like blue light. It is known that green light in low light intensity conditions can enhance far red stimulating secondary metabolite production in microgreens and then again, counteracts the production of these compounds in high-intensity light conditions (Kim et al. 2004). In many cases, green light promoted physiological changes in plants that are opposite to the actions of blue light. In the study by Kim et al. blue light-induced anthocyanin accumulation was inhibited by green light. In another study it has been found that blue light promotes stomatal opening whereas green light promotes stomatal closure (Frechilla et al. 2000). Blue light inhibits the early stem elongation in the seedling stage whereas green light promotes it (Folta 2004). Also, blue light results in flowering induction, and green light inhibits it (Banerjee et al., 2007). As you can see, green light works very closely with blue light, and therefore not only the amount of these two wavelengths separately is important but also the ratio (Blue: Green) between these two in the designed spectrum. Furthermore, green light has been found to affect the elongation of petioles and upward leaf reorientation with the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana both of which are a sign of shade avoidance symptoms (Zhang et al. 2011) and also gene expression in the same plant (Dhingra et al. 2006). As mentioned before, green light produces shade avoidance symptoms which are quite intuitive if you consider the natural conditions where the plants grow. Not all the green light is reflected from the highest canopy leaves in nature but a lot of it (50-90%) has been estimated to penetrate the upper leaves at the plant level ((Terashima et al., 2009; Nishio, 2000). For the plant growing in the understory of the forest green light is a signal for the plant of being in the shade of a bigger plant. Then again, the plants growing under unobstructed sunlight can take advantage of the green photons that can more easily penetrate the upper leaves than the red and blue photons. From the photosynthetic pigments in higher plants, chlorophyll is crucial for plant growth. Dissolved chlorophyll and absorb maximally in the red (λ600–700 nm) and blue (λ400–500 nm) regions of the spectrum and not as easily in the green (λ500–600 nm) regions. Up to 80% of all green light is thought to be transmitted through the chloroplast (Terashima et al., 2009) and this allows more green photons to pass deeper into the leaf mesophyll layer than red and blue photons. When the green light is scattered in the vertical leaf profile its journey is lengthened and therefore photons have a higher chance of hitting and being absorbed by chloroplasts on their passage through the leaf to the lower leaves of the plant. Photons of PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) are captured by chlorophyll causing an excitation of an electron to enter a higher energy state in which the energy is immediately passed on to the neighboring chlorophyll molecule by resonance transfer or released to the electron transport chain (PSII and PSI). Despite the low extinction coefficient of chlorophyll in the green 500–600 nm region it needs to be noted that the absorbance can be significant if the pigment (chlorophyll) concentration in the leaf is high enough. The research available clearly shows that plants use green wavelengths to promote higher biomass and yield (photosynthetic activity), and that it is a crucial signal for long-term developmental and short-term dynamic acclimation (Blue:Green ratio) to the environment. It should not be dismissed but studied more because it brings more opportunities to control plant gene expression and physiology in plant production. REFERENCES Banerjee R., Schleicher E., Meier S. Viana R. M., Pokorny R., Ahmad M., Bittl R., Batschauer. 2007. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. The Journal of Biological Chemistry 282, 14916–14922. Dhingra, A., Bies, D. H., Lehner, K. R., and Folta, K. M. 2006. Green light adjusts the plastic transcriptome during early photomorphogenic development. Plant Physiol. 142, 1256-1266. Folta, K. M. 2004. Green light stimulates early stem elongation, antagonizing light-mediated growth inhibition. Plant Physiol. 135, 1407-1416. Frechilla, S., Talbott, L. D., Bogomolmi, R. A., and Zeiger, E. 2000. Reversal of blue light -stimulated stomatal opening by green light. Plant Cell Physiol. 41, 171-176. Kim, H.H., Goins, G. D., Wheeler, R. M., and Sager, J. C. 2004.Green-light supplementation for enhanced lettuce growth under red- and blue-light emitting diodes. HortScience 39, 1617-1622. Nishio, J.N. 2000. Why are higher plants green? Evolution of the higher plant photosynthetic pigment complement. Plant Cell and Environment 23, 539–548. Terashima I., Fujita T., Inoue T., Chow W.S., Oguchi R. 2009. Green light drives leaf photosynthesis more efficiently than red light in strong white light: revisiting the enigmatic question of why leaves are green. Plant & Cell Physiology 50, 684–697. Zhang, T., Maruhnich, S. A., and Folta, K. M. 2011. Green light induces shade avoidance symptoms. Plant Physiol. 157, 1528-156. Wang, Y. & Folta, K. M. Contributions of green light to plant growth and development. Am. J. Bot. 100, 70–78 (2013). Zhang, T. & Folta, K. M. Green light signaling and adaptive response. Plant Signal. Behav. 7, 75–78 (2012). Johkan, M. et al. Blue light-emitting diode light irradiation of seedlings improves seedling quality and growth after transplanting in red leaf lettuce. HortScience 45, 1809–1814 (2010). Kasajima, S., et al. Effect of Light Quality on Developmental Rate of Wheat under Continuous Light at a Constant Temperature. Plant Prod. Sci. 10, 286–291 (2007). Banerjee, R. et al. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. J. Biol. Chem. 282, 14916–14922 (2007). Goggin, D. E. & Steadman, K. J. Blue and green are frequently seen: responses of seeds to short- and mid-wavelength light. Seed Sci. Res. 22, 27–35 (2012). Mandák, B. & Pyšek, P. The effects of light quality, nitrate concentration and presence of bracteoles on germination of different fruit types in the heterocarpous Atriplex sagittata. J. Ecol. 89, 149–158 (2001). Darko, E. et al. Photosynthesis under artificial light: the shift in primary and secondary metabolism. Philos. Trans. R. Soc. B Biol. Sci. 369 (2014). Lu, N. et al. Effects of Supplemental Lighting with Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) on Tomato Yield and Quality of Single-Truss Tomato Plants Grown at High Planting Density. Environ. Control Biol. 50, 63–74 (2012).

Starting to cut the apex

8/2 Fed two gallons this morning and took some hurried pictures. Did SLIGHT defoliation of dead leaves. Didn't have much time to inspect things. I'll check things out later this afternoon. Need to go in at night and see what critters are about. Woke very late so it was a very hurried morning. Rained last night like I expected. It's 68 at 9:30 and looks like rain. 8/3 Nice and sunny and 80 at noon. Didn't water as it rained last night nor did I get a chance to defoliate. After seeing a comment about mites I decided to break out the ol 100x scope. I took random samplings of leaves on different plants. I found ZERO mites. Just because I didn't find any doesn't mean they aren't there but it brings my anxiety down a little. While looking I did notice something is munching leaves. I wanted to use something to continue treatment for WPM and any random bugs but I may need to use captain jack's. I have lady bugs and don't want to kill them but I might just have too. I don't know if earwigs are a big problem or the holes are from pillars or hoppers or whatever else. Observing the weather and the 40 degree mornings and the wind tunnel I seem to be in, I don't see mites setting up shop or sticking around too long in these conditions. Either way if I missed something the IPM will get it. I bought general hydroponics cool bloom that I'm considering switching from tiger bloom. My tiger bloom is from last year and it seems to be crystalized a little in the bottom. We shall see. This is the last year of liquid nutes I hope. 8/4 Watered this morning and defoliated dead leaves. Looking on the inside of the plants I've noticed what looks like small leaves by bud sites dying or being chomped on. Not a single fucking aphid anywhere. I think those earwigs got a taste for those sweet lower bud sites and may be causing damage. It kinda helped as all they did was lollipop a couple lower branches in spots. Still I believe it will become a problem if left unchecked. Plan is to treat plants tonight with captain Jack's. I have a little more research to do but I believe that's the route I'll take. I noticed some pillar holes and other assorted pests so I think now's a good time to hit them with the Spinosid. Plants are looking good though. I can see cola's forming and hairs coming together to make small buds. What a great time. I have so much to do but I'm so busy with the other things going on it's hard to keep up. I'll update as I progress. Plans are fluid. 8/5 Topsoil was dry despite the rain we had so I watered and defoliated what needed and pruned some inner branches I missed yesterday. I don't like leaving exposed matter when it's wet. It's not supposed to rain until around 1pm. I'm getting frustrated. I can't find the earwigs anymore and "life" had kept me from being the best gardener I could be. Last year I woulda been out with a spray bottle every night looking for them. I need to visit the garden at night. I think I need to lower my pH too. Hopefully the apple cider vinegar spray I plan to use will help some. The water going in is good so I don't get how the pH is higher at the root zone. I've seen random damage from different pests. Tonight I'm putting petroleum jelly on the stalks and anywhere the bugs can climb up. I also plan on spraying spinosid tonight. I will update as I progress. The traps I made haven't caught a single bug. A little frustrated this morning but the garden looks gorgeous. 8/6 Rained last night. This wet weather sucks. Found a couple spots where bud shoots had been eaten as well as other tell tale signs. It's got to be those earwigs. I've researched my ass off and have none of the normal pests I usually would this time of year. Especially aphids. I have lady bugs but no way they controlled pests this well. More likely the wigs ran out of food and got a taste for nice cannabis shoots and leaves. I can't seem to make it happen at night so this morning I liberally sprayed all plants with a gallon of captain Jack's dead bug at 2tbsp a gallon as recommended. Spinosid works good and I've used it in the past with BT. Should take care of whatever. I sprayed around the cage too but I couldn't find anything. I read Spinosid is good at controlling those fucking earwigs too. Did you know earwigs are 20 million years old and the only species in their genus. I certainly didn't. I see leaf septoria all over the foliage around. By around I mean just driving or walking in the woods. It seems bad this year. At least it hasn't gotten to my garden yet. Garden is away from most other vegetation. I have ONE plant In that 30 gallon tote at the back outside my cage that I can tell has leaf septoria 💯. I don't know if I should cull it or try to fight it. I'll pick up a copper based fungicide and try first. I'm at that point where this plant was just extra and neglected so maybe it would be better of somewhere else. I may just isolate it. Hurried morning. No time for defoliation not pictures. I will update as I go. I will start apple cider vinegar spray probably tomorrow after I feed. I'm researching how to check my pH with an indicator liquid. Maybe I can get a better idea of the pH at my root zone. Those soil meters suck. Update I went for a hike just to check out the foliage in the area. I'm lucky. Japanese beetles have stripped a lot of vegetation around here but have luckily left my cannabis alone. I've killed like four total. I also noticed tons of fungal infections in trees (different area from my grow but within a mile). Hopefully I can come to decision about treating or culling that plant. 8/7 Looks like it's going to be a good day weather wise. Like I said my tiger bloom has what seems like small crystals that rattle when I shake the bottle. I know it's probably better to use one line of products but I switched to GH liquid cool bloom 0-10-10. It came highly recommended so we shall see. Plants seem to be doing well with the transition to flower. They look healthy despite the little ones outside the cage and the one with the fungal infection. Even that has nice tops it's just the bottom that looks fucked up. I think I'll bring it away from the others and attempt to treat it. Luckily it was just an experiment and a bag seed. After taking a hike I realized I'm quite lucky. Local foliage has been skeletonized by japanese beetles. This relentless rain has brought about fungal infections in trees, shrubs and even fruiting plants like blackberries. Things could definitely be much worse. I'm picking up a fungicide today to treat that plant. PM seems to be in check for now but I'll need to stay on top of it. Also need to try to get litmus paper or something to test soil pH. Meter is junk. I have indicator liquid though. I'll update as I progress. 8/8 Its been raining almost every night. Another challenge for the outdoor grower. I defoliated more leaves this morning. I noticed previous damage on bud sites that appears to be from earwigs. Also dead sugar leaves on new bud shoots down low and inside. Glad I got the Spinosid treatment in. At least whatever ate it will be dead. Need to still figure out what to do with that plant and whether it has leaf septoria or just a more advanced powdery mildew. I'm in town now and I'm planning to pick up a copper based fungicide just in case. I may isolate the one plant and treat everything and go from there. It's a large plant but seems to have lost most of its leaves. Not sure if switching the nutes was a good idea as I read that tiger bloom doesn't really expire and it's made to go with the rest of the nutes I'm using. Next week I need to stay on top of treatments and continuing to monitor for PM or other damage. Other than that plants look healthy and are transitioning to flower pretty well. Sunny and Tempe reached 90. RH is stupid high

Эти девушки очень много сахара произвели за неделю и плотность бетоном очень увеличиваеться! Прекрасный рост.

LST again & again. My Gagarin Auto gives powerfull branches on both sides. Seems like it wants to start flowering. That's pretty early)

Gelato Auto Week 2 These big girls have had an amazing week doubling in size. Heat has been a little issue with these two but over all they have been OK besides some leafs that have curled and showing a few rust spots on a couple leafs. I upped the water a little to 32oz a day. Over all good growth keeping plenty of air flow. Happy Growing Everyone.

.

Apr 09: Things are chuggin along, i think light may have been a factor in the brown spots, seeing similar symptoms on one of the other plants but very very minor in comparison.... I think it was too little calmag, i may have locked them out mid veg by using high concentration of nutes without watering till runoff (i now know, that is a no-go), and light stress. i have had them under 850-1050 ppfd when flipped to flower... one of them is loving the light, one is big and bushy (had to defoliate later than i wanted), and one has good bud structure but pistils seem thin, and growth seems slower (the one with the brown polkadot party on its body) so thinking it may be stunted. either way, im seeing denser buds, and im learning the ropes, thats enough for me :) Apr 12: Last feed day... Trichomes look just about ready, will do 2 runoff waterings 48hrs apart, then 24-36 hr darkness... Will try to post trichome pics.... Super excited to see the improvements from this run vs last run...!

alright, how y'all doing? this week I did defoliated both plants, for the last time, I hope. The Rd started to flowering few days earlier, and the SS on the other hand, is very small in size, I confess when defoliating the next day it looked I didn't do lol. 😵, but yeah I noticed the plants now are going int flowering so no more defoliation for now.. SS its showing it gender but still very shy 😜, I keep telling her, hey, don't be shy be like your friend right there all showing off.. 😇. alright.. feeding schedule.. I was doing some research and couldn't find much at all about mixing different types of fertilisers brand... so I got this advanced nuts ( carlbooad was sent cause they ran out of bud candy but in the website it was available nd on the email I said to send me the big bud then but whatever.. 😕.. I did made a mistake with the nirvana. ( the bottle says> 2 ml/l during all grow fase and during weeks 3 till6 of blooming. ( on the website doing some research found only tu use during weeks 3 till 6 on bloom.)) so with that said I just used as the bottle said, and it was too late, I mean when I realised I had done it already, some lets hope and prays for the best kkkk.... so for the next feeding this week I won't add nirvana yet..will wait 2 more weeks and then put back inside 😆. so. I guess its all for today. let me know ur comments below and suggestions, if had the experience mixing different fertiliser and etc.. even if it was a bad experience pls comment.. thanks y'all c u next week... 👊

Transfer chosen into dwc’…2 most vigorous will be kept for breeding into r2 strains the remaining 4 will be vegged for flowering to test run the new strains

Everything went well More pics of her coming along with weight. I decided that since seeds are popping out, found a couple seeds on the floor, and no need to wait for the fade she served her purpose well. And she brings forth the next Generation ! Red Sky Cake !

Day 25: They where forced into flowering almost a week ago. So ofcourse no signs of preflower yet but I gues we might see the first signs in the end of this week, but surely next week. Everything still looks nicely green, no stress in the stems or branches as well. I did some run-offs. Ph 6-6.2 with like 1.6-1.8 ec which is good to me. The soil has lots of grow nutrients in it, so I stopped giving them grow nutrients since today. I did feed them some flowering nutrients. Just 2ml Canna Terra Flores per liter, which is not much compaired to the week after (4-6ml per liter). To give them a little start. Thats it for this week, might update again this week if I feel like too, Untill next week!