This is towards the end of last week. The BB crosses are doing excellent. They have all gone through some extreme temps with intense temp and RH fluctuations. I’ve concluded that the plants 1 week behind experienced too much heat on this one day when some things came up and I wasn’t around to get them out of the hot sun in time, and they were stunted by excessive heat over 90F. The others didn’t show much signs of stress at all. I’m not giving up on the little ones, but I am giving them a large amount of grace and understanding. They can just continue to grow and do their best. Maybe they will come back into full speed in a week or so. Maybe not. At least I will grow them out to learn what happens. From now on I will be extra careful with all stimuli my seedlings are receiving. Showing sone other plants of same age, some of which are photoperiods that began flowering about a month and a half early, with 15 hours of daylight! Why? My first guess is some form of extreme rodelization. I did notice on both A-Trains that they each had a node with two pollen sacks developing as well as the burst of female bracts. So I nicked off the pollen sacks right away, and I’ve been putting them under a light for the nights to hopefully reveg them. Either way, a fun anecdote for some new knowledge and experience! I’m sure they would bud out Fat! Seeing how much they did in 2-3 days! But maybe there’s other elements at play.

14. Woche, P1 fällt morgen, die ist soweit gut denke ich (ca. 20% aufwärts Bernstein Trichome). P2 braucht leider noch ca. 1 woche länger. 93. Tag ist für P1 das Ende, sie wurde heute vorgetrimmt und zum trocknen aufgehängt. Ergebnisse gibt es wenn die P2 auch geerntet wird, denke nächste Woche um die Zeit. Aber eins kann ich euch versichern, is mit Abstand die schwerste die ich ist jetzt hatte😊🍀🍀. Gebt euch auch mal wie viele Trichome die gute produziert hat, Duft is noch sehr pflanzlich, Blüten sind ziemlich fest gewesen hoffe das es nach dem trocknen noch so ist. Alles in allem super Run. Hoffentlich is die gute bei den Top 10 das wäre ein träumchen, wobei ich es wirklich jedem gönne zu gewinnen und bei soviel starker Konkurrenz geht ich wahrscheinlich unter. ABER was ein geiler Contest trotzdem, hier ein dickes fettes Dankeschön an Zamnesia und Plagron für die Möglichkeit hier überhaupt mitmachen zu dürfen 🙏💙💜 98. Tag , werd die gute am Samstag/Sonntag je nachdem wie ich Zeit finde, umlegen und zum trocknen aufhängen.

Día 8 (28/10) Subo a DLI 20 Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Retiro la cúpula de humedad, porque una de las CBD Auto 20:1 tenia el tallo ligeramente doblado por falta de resistencia Sin la cúpula y con el ventilador a la potencia mínima (1/10), van a tener una suave brisa que va a hacer que se fortalezca el tallo! Día 9 (29/10) Las plantas se han estirado mucho y se tambalean un poco Creo que deberían haber tenido un DLI más alto desde el principio! Día 10 (30/10) CBD Auto 20:1 y LSD-25 Auto se encuentran "tumbadas" porque el tallo se ha estirado mucho! Hago un soporte casero con una brocheta de madera + alambre + clip de enrejado para mantener los tallos verticales! Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Día 11 (31/10) Las plántulas se muestran verticales y felices! Una de las CBD Auto 20:1 está mostrando un desarrollo muy rápido! Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Día 12 (01/11) Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Día 13 (02/11) Las plántulas se están estirando mucho! Creo que las falta DLI Subo el DLI a 30 Spray solo H2O RO en el top del sustrato Día 14 (03/11) Introduzco la 1ª BioTab a 5 cm de profundidad, lado derecho 1er Riego! 750 ml de H2O RO + ORGATREX 5 ml/L + BACTREX 1 g/L 💦Nutrients by Bio Tabs - www.biotabs.nl/en/ 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-hp-biofungicide-plus-mycorrhizae "GDBT420" 15% DISCOUNT code for the BIOTABS Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/

La semana pasada corte apicales y esta semana una buena defoliación dejando namás que las copas y poco más. A finales de semana las resitué y puse a todas en su sitio . Dos que habia descartado y las tenia en maceta de 1 L las trasplanté a una maceta de mayor tamaño y saqué al exterior.

La semaine était très froide. La plante était en intérieur souvent. Très peu arrosé mais un peu quand même. Les bourgeons grossissent et prennent en maturité doucement mais sûrement. L'odeur est très alléchante...

at last we are in harvest week. im happy at all it was a good experience. my dry and cure style is this: 4 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 4 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. buds are dense and frosty but very little in size! i had some mistakes and problems with this grow so i admit i wasted them . lesson from this grow : grow autos far from fems and always give them 20 hours or more light per day to get good weight in little time.

March, 11th. The Nicole Kush Seedlings are growing vigor and nicely I forgot to make Pics of all... But they arte to see in the Video Tomorrow iam going to do that... Iam setting up another " Babytent" with a new Light Stay courious You can have a Sneak -Peak on the new Viparspectra XS-1000, wich is going to be released on March 15th March 13th. Iam done with setting up Now i have another Babytent. and Inside the New Viparspectra XS-1000 and the other Stuff to run the Envoirement I already ca see a difference between both Tents. If you stand outside and just look with Eyesight the Viparspectra seems to be brighter// has another color of Light. I made a Unboxing Video for more informations. Amazon: http://url-9.cn/0y9i Amazon US: https://amzn.to/3e0P2bk Amazon CA: https://amzn.to/3bTnEJC Amazon discount Code: it10mlarimar XS1000 10% it15mlarimar XS1500 5% it20mlarimar XS2000 5% it40mlarimar XS4000 5%

Trychomes on the sugarleafs are 50% brown, on the flower itself maybe 10% brown.

Week 6! September 9 -Yo! Everything was all good just a week ago smh. Been battling what I think is a magnesium deficiency as I waited for dry back 3 days just in case and it’s gotten worse. -Since it’s early flower I’m thing Mag deficiency so CalMag every watering or every other until I see this stop affecting my fan leaves -Other than an obvious deficiency ladies are still producing trichomes and the flowerings are still growing. Will continue to pH the water and monitor the health of these two ladies this week

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

This is the tester strain sent to me by @toon_town it's a #saskatoonberry x #afghani mystery .. She has been great since day one very good growth rate excellent structure and lots of bud sites formed and filling out .. she has 7 friends to start but we down to three two females and a male plant .. The selected male show resistance to cold, humidity, lack of water .. the male had lots of growth and will make a suitable plant for some pollen ...

TH 1Q2025 - Week 8 - Flower 5 
(ON Haze X Original Haze) X Northern Lights #2 “Todd’s Haze” Objective - 8 Female Plants, Topped ONCE @ Flip, 12” when topped - Modified Sea of Green Seeds Wet: 1139PM, 28.2.2025 Germinated: 2.3.2025 Flip: 21.3.2025 Harvest: 77 Days, DATE: 6.6.2025 _________________________________________ __ Fri Apr 25, 2025 TH 1Q25 36:F:5:1 Cleaned Emitters - Replaced Pump Cleaned Manifold Filter = TWICE Replaced IRRIGATION Pump with mini-sump Photosynthesis plus produces enough biofilm to disqualify from running in the reservoir. - Remediate: Apply half diluted to watering zone, every other day. Include PCAL 1660 for Add’l Calcium and Phosphorous - [x] CEASED PHOTOSYNTHESIS PLUS IN RESERVOIR - The BIO film is ‘orange/pink,’ PSP is the SUSPECT. - [x] Harvest Dehu - [x] Refresh Reservoir - 2 Gallons - [x] EC: 2.3, 2.4 - [x] Primer A & B: [ 31, ml] - [x] Silica Skin GEN 3: [ 16, ml] - [x] SLF-100: [ 10, ml] - [x] 1900: Measure Runoff - [x] Amount: [ 1250 , ml] - [x] EC: [ 2.3, mS/cm] __ Sat Apr 26, 2025 TH 1Q25 37:F:5:2 - [x] Replace Main Feed (1/2 Silcone tubing) with 3/8” Black Chemical Resistant - [x] Refresh Reservoir - 2 Gallons - [x] EC: 2.3, 2.4 - [x] Primer A & B: [ 31, ml] - [x] Silica Skin GEN 3: [ 16, ml] - [x] SLF-100: [ 10, ml] - [x] 1900: Measure Runoff - [x] Amount: [ 950, ml] - [x] EC: [ 2.4, mS/cm] __ Sun Apr 27, 2025 TH 1Q25 38:F:5:3 - [x] Lower Defoliation in Preparation for Intra-Canopy Lighting Install - [x] Harvest Dehu: 3.5 Gallons (None Yesterday) - [x] Refresh Reservoir - 3 Gallons - [x] EC: 2.4 - [x] Primer A & B: [ 48.8, ml] - [x] Silica Skin GEN 3: [ 24.4, ml] - [x] SLF-100: [ 15, ml] RUNOFF: [ 950, ml, 2.4/5, mS/cm]  __ Mon Apr 28, 2025 TH 1Q25 39:F:5:4 Observations - @ 2.4 EC is making for DENSE GREEN in the leaves. We DON’T lack nitrogen. ;-} - Some Nitrogen Curling on NL2 Dominant (Pheno #2) - Will REDUCE EC if doesn’t abate today . . . - We have some White filmy scum forming on top surface of res water. Suspect Silica. Will clean out res TUESDAY and restart w/Out Silica Skin. If we’re clear FRIDAY - Start Re-adding until and unless white scum forms … Reducing EC: 2.3 # Will reduce Day by Day to 2.1 - [x] Harvest Dehu: 2.5 Gallons Runoff - [x] EC: [ TBD, mS/cm] - [x] Amt: [ 950, ml] __ Tue Apr 29, 2025 TH 1Q25 40:F:5:5 - [x] Install Intra-canopy Light 50% Dimmer Note: After H2O2 yesterday, and 1 cup (in about 2 gals) today - the amount of scum is REDUCED SIGNIFICANTLY. I filtered with hand strainer until there was no more film or particularate (there wasn’t a lot) - The overall appearance is better. Have refreshed with 3 Gallons and Primer A&B Only (and SLF-100). We’ll monitor. If it stays clean, we’ll test again with Silica Skin Gen 3. __ Wed Apr 30, 2025 TH 1Q25 41:F:5:6  Refresh Reservoir - [x] Amount: [ 2, Gal] - [x] Primer A&B: [ 32, ml] - [x] SLF-100: [ 10, ml] Runoff Amount: [ 2, gal] EC: [ 2.9, mS/cm] R&R Reservoir (Rinse components w/ 45% H2O2) - [x] Disconnect MAIN FEED Line - [x] Disconnect, Remove, and Clean PUMPS - [x] Flush Chiller - [x] Clean Reservoir Reassembly - [x] Reinstall components NOTE: We have a SMALL amt of white slate like precipitate - Most Likely Silica … __ Thu May 1, 2025 TH 1Q25 42:F:5:7 Mix 1 Liter of CalPhos for HAND APPLICATION Tonight CAL50K, 1 ml yields .5 EC (250 ppm)/Liter, or .125 EC per Gal ~16 ml’s/gal - ~2.1 EC - [ ] Mix and ApplyPCAL 1660 & CAL50K - [ ] Photosynthesis Plus - [ ] Quillaja 60 - [ ] Apply ~ 120 ml/plant - [x] CAL50K to EC: 2.1 (4 ml/qt) - [x] For 2.1 EC: [ 16, g] Cal50K *** RESERVOIR EMPTY!!! *** After REDUCING Per Event flow in Half - we STILL Emptied the reservoir … SINCE we ONLY HAD 2 GALLONS, We’re good (Catchment is 2 Gal) Last night I cleaned the manifold filter ~ 7PM (Start Time) and reduced to 18 minutes TOTAL time (9 Events, 2 minutes/event) Runoff Amount: [ 7600, ml] # We Emptied the Res Overnight, at 3 min/event - dropped to TWO ~2300 EC: 2.9 Refresh Reservoir: 2 Gal (Reclaimed DEHU) - [x] SLF-100: [ 10, ml] - [x] Primer A&B: [ 32, ml]

Another week done. She's pretty much on autopilot. Still got quite a few weeks left though, must be very Sativa dominant 💪

This one is dedicated to Velvet Moon exclusively. The other diary is for both strains, that's because I only have one more strain and it's an auto, so I'm not going to make an exclusive diary for her.

it grows and grows and grows. it looks very healthy and strong. the changeable weather doesn't bother it at all. unfortunately, there are still no clear indications of its sex. it gets a nice nutrient mix from biobizz root and grow.

wau what pistils !!!! my puppies have blossomed exaggeratedly .... some are very long ... others have remained shorter ... I hope not to damage these magnificent buds under the lights and to give all my girls the light they deserve ... I have to learn the fucking techniques of you masters of cultivation ... I'm here to learn the best from you !! * some leaves are starting to make purple funte ... I don't know what the fuck it is ... maybe it's a question of genetics I think ...

She showed minor discoloration so I added very very little nute from GHE line of course AFTER checking and adjusting ph level first :)