bouncing back from defoliation as they continue to stretch. sour 76 finish stretching at 22-24 inches (flipped at 10-12 inches) plat yetis keep stretching for another week or two

First week of flowering. Girls are super happy. And drink a lot. I very much prefer the lower plant count with 8 plants. And I’m probably not going to go back to more than 9 plants. Perhaps will even try 6 or 7. 12 or 16 was a bit of overkill. Maybe with super short veg it has its place. 26.01 first day of flower.

At the end of week 3 I topped one of the strawberry cough they are all looking good and starting to veg I’m all caught up with the grow diary’s and will add at the end of every week. I’m in Australia and did start a little late into the season but hope to get a decent grow in they will be at my brothers once transplanted and he has a few aswel that I will add into the grow log nothing but sun and water only use a little thrive that’s from Bunnings that I get from my pops shed. They will be in a nicer cleaner soil when transplanted into veggie beds and will have chicken poo as a nutrient source first time ever using chicken poo so see how it goes. Will keep the grow log updated and hopefully everything goes all well for the travel and transplant for the plants in the next few days

Another successful grow! This strain has a wonderful aroma and generous, resinous buds. This will definitely always be my go-to strain. 💪🥦

I have only one seed left and I decided to clone my GSC :) Let’s see how it goes :) her mother is in flower room at the moment. 🌲🍀🌱🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦🥦

It took more than 5 months to grow this lady.. Top quality budd but what a yield only 47 grams dry... Maybe its because the seeds were too old (5 years) but its still very nice terps and the profile of geno that I was hunting for 😊

They are really starting to take off now.im hopeing they do get about a foot taller.not sure though.

Everything is going ok no roots yet on the clones but we got a week b4 we need to worry Temps steady humidity steady will be topping of res with more nutes todau

🌱🌿🌸SUMMARY🌸🌿🌱 I started this crop with 4 plants as you can see in the pics, 2 autoflowers by RQS and 2 photoperiodics. My plan was as follows: grow the two autoflowering plants until harvest and in the meantime do a long vegetative period for the two photoperiodic plants, and then proceed with the switch. One autoflowering plants, the Titan F1, did not respond well to the training and I preferred to remove it on week 5. Fortunately there were no problems with the other three plants (I made a different diary focused on the two photoperiodic). Milky Way F1 grew in a space dedicated to her of 90 cm x 40 cm (0.36 m2), under a 150 watt lamp which in the meantime also illuminated the other plants. 🌱 GERMINATION (2 days) Seed in a glass of EC 0.4 tap water for 10 hours, then in root riot and under the lamp. It sprouted after 48 hours from dry seed. 🌿 GROWING STAGE (3 weeks and half) During the 23 days after sprouting she had an impressive growth ratio. When she reached 25 cm in height I decided to bent the main stem to the side. On day 24 I opened the canopy with some tie, then I removed a good amount of leaves. The key with this kind of auto, the F1, is not stress them in the wrong moment but if you want to boost them yield you need to do some train, carefully! During the veg stage PH was always between 5.5 and 5.9, about EC I started with 0.6 and was 1 on the last veg week. 🌸 FLOWERING STAGE (7 weeks) She began the flowering stage on day 26 from dry seed (was 20 cm height after the bending) and by the end of the stretching she more than doubled the height, reaching 46 cm despite the LST on week 3 and 4. During the flowering I just removed some leaves on week 4 and 8. The light cycle I used is 18/6 and the last two weeks I lowered the light hours to 16/8 first and 14/10 then. I chopped her when trichomes were 95% milky and 5% amber. That gave me a very balanced high. During the flowering stage PH was always between 5.9 and 6.2, about EC I started with 1.6 and was 2 on the last week before flush. ✅ HARVEST - From dry seed to harvest: 74 days (2 days germination + 23 days veg + 49 days flo). - Chopped after 4 days flush, no dark time; - Wet trim, removed fan leaves. This plant had a ridiculous calyx-to-leaf ratio, it was just big buds! ✅ DRYING STAGE - Time: 15 days; - Average: 18° C - 60% RH. - After that I made a dry trim, removed branches and sugar leaves. ⚖️ DRY WEIGHT - 110 gr very frosty buds, no larf 😁 ✅ CURING STAGE - Curing is done after 45 days with Boveda 62%.

LAS PLANTAS ESTAN MUY BONITAS Y YA EMPIEZAN A ENGORDAR EL FRUTO, LOS PAJAROS YA NO HAN TOCADO NADA MAS, AHORA ESTOY REGANDO CON 5 LITROS DIARIOS YA QUE TIENEN TODO EL DIA SOL DIRECTO Y AHORA ES CUANDO MAS RECURSOS NECESITAN PARA ENGORDAR BIEN ALGUNAS PLANTAS DE PURPLE LEMON HUELEN MUCHO A LIMÓN EC 1400 PH 6,5

I have watered once with the aerated mixture of compost tea pk booster 15gr and 5 ml of orgatrex 👏🏻💪😋 👏🏻💪😋 the rest of days with water alone 💦💦 temperature 27º C ☀️ humidity 65% 💧and music 🎼 😉👍

Vamos familia vamos actualizar la segunda semana de floración de estas Kritical. Es una variedad sencilla amarillean un poco por una carencia de magnesio que solventare con los productos de Agrobeta ya veréis cómo recuperan. En las fotos podréis comprobar que 3 de 6 sufren bastante la carencia de magnesio. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 50%/65% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨

What up fam. This girl has absolutely exploded into a beast. It's probably the one of the biggest Autos I've ever grow and definitely drink more then any I've grown. She's drinking a gallon a day and not showing any signs of slowing down. The flowers are definitely forming and looking phenomenal. Happy Growing

Week 7 (13-3 to 19-3) 13-3 Temperature: 24.2 degrees (lights on) 18.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 52% (lowest) 14-3 Temperature: 28.2 degrees (lights on) 19.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 57% (highest) 44% (lowest) Today i refilled the reservoir with 15L feed (1L + 0.2 ml Silica + 1 gr Calcium + 0.7 gr Grow) EC: 1.3 PH: 6 One wavemaker already broke on me, luckily i bought 2 so i replaced it with a working one. 15-3 Temperature: 28.5 degrees (lights on) 21.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 60% (highest) 46% (lowest) 16-3 Temperature: 28.2 degrees (lights on) 19.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 59% (highest) 45% (lowest) No pictures. Adjusted the distance of the light to 40/50 cm (depending on hight of some tops) 17-3 Temperature: 27.8 degrees (lights on) 19.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 62% (highest) 44% (lowest) 18-3 Temperature: 28.1 degrees (lights on) 20.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 62% (highest) 44% (lowest) Today i cleaned the reservoir and added 15L. (1L + 0.2 ml Silica + 0.5 ml CalMag + 0.46 gr Grow) EC: 0.9 PH: 6 19-3 Temperature: 28.2 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 69% (highest) 43% (lowest) No pictures. Today i installed a new SCROG net, this one is much better then the one i used before.

did some light defoliation (lower larger leaves and the ones touching soil) on day 28. started feeding her bio-bloom as she transitions to pre-flower. next week will start feeding with top-max as well. looking healthy but im worried they wont grow as much as expected :(

final week of feed before flush. show plants height outside tent shots as well. humidity randomly dropped to 20's which im happy with at end of flower as i hear increases potency and resin production. smell starting to come thru door of tent. but not out the exhaust (carbon filtered)

Got the last trimming may need second trellis

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.