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Diese Woche gab es ein paar Probleme, sowohl Salzaufbau im Substrat sowie Stress durch zu viel Licht. Der EC im Drain lag bei 3,0 mS und der Ph bei 7,5, dadurch ist die Kaliumaufnahme blockiert. Um da dagegen zu steuern habe ich ein Mal 6l Wasser mit CalMag und Ph 5,7 gegossen, um die Salzablagerung abzubauen. Außerdem habe ich das Licht wieder auf 75% gedimmt. Salzablagerungen sind zu diesem Zeitpunkt der Blüte relativ häufig, in Coco!
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7 Feb: Watered with a tiny bit of pH-Down, also 0.5ml Acti-Vera + 0.5ml Bio-Heaven. I plan to feed her 2L of this mixture (total of 1+1ml nutrients) for the remainder of this week. I will feed more if I have given all feed and the soil is still dry, otherwise no. I just now calculated that it would mean around 285ml of water per day for 7 days in a row, I think that is a bit too much. 8 Feb: I asked a grow question regarding if I should trim (defoliate) my flower. Thanks to everyone who took time to answer! In conclusion I will not defoliate my flower. 9 Feb: Watered 10 Feb: Today I started using nutrients and I deliberately decided to use the minimum amount possible. I will then see how my plant reacts and either continue with nutrients and slowly increase to "correct" dosages, or switch back to plain water for a little while longer. Also, if you look at the text above after "7 Feb", you see that I used nutrients there as well. However I used tiny, tiny dosages and I also shared the water with my other plant: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/133066-grow-journal-by-depplover49. The feed ran out in just 3-4 days and the plants seem to like it so that's why I had to refill my watering can today. 11 Feb (Day 29): Today was my best performance yet when it comes to mixing nutrients. I measured the pH-levels of the water, added one nutrient, checked the pH-levels again, then repeated until I was done. I also used two different meters since I believe they're both not really a 100% working. I am thinking about investing in a better one, these two were like $15 each and I heard that they can break after a while. Anyways, I checked the soil using both meters and the green one show 6.9 and the red one 6.9-7.0. I'm quite sure it's at 6.9 and my feeding mixture is about 6.5. I am hoping to be able to report a lowered pH-level in a few days (if that's how it works hehe). 12 Feb (Day 30): She is getting wider and bigger, her leaves are erect, she responds very well to nutrients and pH is 6.8-6.9. The green pH-meter is saying 6.8! 13 Feb: Damn she grew 7cm last night, a bit more than 2 inches.
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So this is day three of pre vegetation that means the seeds have not yet broken the soil completely and grown their first true leaves. Not much to really say at this point they all are growing roots and doing very well so far. I'm just using tap water at this point. An important note to make these are seeds from a company called 7 East genetics here in Ontario Canada they shipped me my seeds in good time although Canada Post was slacking LOL. Can't wait to see how these babies grow and I very much hope they live up to their name.
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She’s getting a little bigger day by day! Popped when it was pretty cold outside, but it’s has been very hot and humid this past week—- and she loves it!
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Looking great so far. Removing more fan leaves every other day or whenever i find the time to check the garden.
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@HinduGod
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ON DAY 23 REMOVED THE BOTTOM GROWTH FROM THE PLANT. DAY 26 THE PLANT RECIEVED A TOP DRESSING OF DRIED GROUND EGGSHELL,DRIED GROUND ORANGE PEEL AND BLACK GOLD! ( WORM CASTINGS ). WEATHER THIS PAST WEEK HAS BEEN MILD RANGING FROM 13-17 CELCIUS WITH 2 DAYS OF SOME RAIN. THE PLANT IS LOOKING VERY VERY STRONG AND HEALTHY!! PLEASE COME AGAIN!!!😎
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@Mr_Dior21
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This plant has been going strong for sometime now. I’m starting this grow diary so soon because I need to keep track of how much longer I have until it’s ready for harvest. I already forgot what day I switched to bloom lol. But I’ll be posting weekly. With better pictures.
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Germinadas al 100% 8/8. Trabajaré con la línea quemanta, aplicamos red roots aportando micorrizas al sustrato y directamente a la radicula de las semillas. #2 dark de Royal life #2 sweet mango de Royal life #2 gelatos #2 zkittlez. Les dejo los primeros 7 días. *Buenos humos
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I have the light cranking at 80 percent intensity at this point and the buds are developing into some very nice frosty nugs.The tallest plant seems to be the most advanced and fan leaves have a heavy fade going.I’ll harvest these ladies at different dates.Also I added a combo of bud candy and Plagron green sensation for this weeks feeding to try and pack on some more weight.When I open the tent it smells absolutely amazing in there at this point.
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RH - down to 45-50% VPD 1.2-1.3 EC 1.2-1.3 Oh 5.8-6.2
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@AsNoriu
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Day 92. First of 3 girls down. Amazing, super productive strain !!! Loved that girl a lot ! Others still to come... Day 101. #1 is jared and #2 is chopped, busy day ! Day 111. #2 is Jared. Only Monster girl left. She is still pushing in ex dry tent. Day 125. Last girl is down ! Day 135. 240 g of nugs from her !!!! My record breaker by a mile ! Happy Growing !!!
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4th day in flower here, plants have doubled in size since a week or so ago. Once again very nice healthy colour to the girls really impressed so far, not a hint of stress shown from the plants at all, very hungry the soil is becoming dry everyday they just take everything I give them.
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@CANNASIM
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------GENERAL COMMENT------ Flush time, within the end of this week is now flush time. To summary this week i just kept on my feeding habits, Water with base > Water with boosters, alternating Recharge. My led seams to be crashing a bit, the colors are not stable as is possible to see in the timelapse. Trichomes are mostly cloudy, with a slight amber. 9 weeks flowering time will be exact, just need time to flush, they are maturing fast fast, hairs are getting orange in a blink. ------GG.AK47 COMMENT------ Compared to the Blueberry the nugs are thinner, still nice size, a bit less dense, thru the stems there are many popcorn buds, that is also due to the less removal on this girl to test. Loaded with colas and the scent is very sugary too, a bit stronger than the BB, and the hairs are turning orange faster, starting to look very mature. Defoliated a bit to avoid rot, will defoliate more for this reason.
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The buds are gradually swelling, and sugar has appeared. I water them daily with a solution containing CalMag and a pH of 6.5. Every two weeks, I add a 1 g/l addition of Bio Enchancer. I noticed some pale leaves this week, so I gave them a small amount of a light solution of Hesi Bloom at 2.5 ml/l (half the amount used on the hydro). At 15 weeks, the coco requires regular watering with an automatic waterer. Sometimes I manage to water two or three times a day, but more often I add a liter of the prepared solution to the pot once a day.
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Que pasa familia, vamos a añadir la segunda semana de vida de estas Apple Fritter de RoyalQueenSeeds, empezamos con la temperatura que la tenemos entre los 21/24 grados, la humedad está entorno al 60%, el ph está en 6.2 , el foco actualmente lo tengo encendido 18 horas y la potencia es al 50% de lo que da el foco. También añado la gama de nutrientes de Agrobeta, que no falla, sin duda de la mejor alimentación que hay para tus plantas. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨
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Day 56 flowering (70 since flip) This girl has been a top performer since her seed hit the growplug. 1st to break ground , mutated leaf set to this monster of a lady. Her buds are beautiful. solid to touch but springy too. The smell of oranges is overwhelming in the room. She has been hit a few times with budrot but seems to be over it now removed and sorted the rh out. I wasnt sure if i had made an error with not counting the stretch weeks in flowering but seeing her pushing new pistils all over and not just near the lights( as light/heat stress does !) , i think shebhas more time to go yet . She is just starting to show signs of using her stores up with yellowing in a couple of leaves now. I think she knows it is close to her end now. A definite future grow. love this lady
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The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.
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I'm still waiting for the buds to dry so i cant put the numbers :D great experience. Next time i will pay way more attention to the last part of the grow....unfortunately i've been so busy and i coudn't take care of them as i wish. I am absolutely Happy with the results...I'm conscious I've made some mistake and neglect them for a while...but I'm still happy with my first grow...I've got a lot to learn and it's just the beginning. Happy grow to everyone. Thanks to everyone who helped me with many suggestions...and thank you to those who tried to help me but I still did it my way (sometimes doing it good and sometimes doing it wrong). Se you soon Growmies
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@BigDaddyK
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Eating like a monster, adding 10 ml A+B daily I saw a bit of leaf discolouration Tuesday Changed reservoir s One eating 14 ml A+B daily This week I’ve added 100 ml A+B to Plant 1 and 68 ml to Plant 2