28/11/22 - first week of bloom starts today, looking at doing another defoliation to free some sites up and removing small sites from the lower canopy - defoliated all of them quite heavily hopefully for the last time, removed small sites from the bottom

Hello everyone 😎 Week 1 of flower for the Strawberry🍓 She is doing very well,growing at fast pace and with a beautiful green colour on the leaves. For the nutrient 2ml/L terra bloom + 1ml/L power buds🔥

day 38 stopped giving PK, carbs. only humic, folvic fishsh!t in watering. lifted terps video sticky icky video day 39 just humic and folvic into water. day42 bridal party gained a lot of weight, started to lean over blackberry. I feel like I could chop today.. slight chance might meet remo :)

Jai du retirer 2 pieds mâles la think mint cookie et la ft og x banana og

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For most crops, a slightly acidic soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal because it optimizes nutrient availability. When soil pH rises above 7.0 (alkaline), the concentration of hydrogen ions H+ drops significantly, and they are replaced by calcium, magnesium, or sodium ions on the clay colloid exchange sites. To naturally lower alkaline soil pH, you can add organic matter (carbon-rich materials), which produces weak organic acids as it decomposes. Maintaining this slightly acidic range stimulates a highly active, diverse microbial community; these microbes decompose organic matter and release carbon dioxide CO2, which plants absorb through their roots and leaves to boost photosynthesis and sugar production. Furthermore, the added organic carbon acts like a sponge, drastically improving the soil's water-holding capacity. While soil biological activity does involve cellular electron transport, electrical conductivity (EC) in soil is actually a measure of dissolved mineral salts, not a voltage carried by individual microbes. Soil microorganisms secrete organic acids and chelate metallic and non-metallic minerals, transforming locked-up inorganic compounds into bioavailable organic complexes. Unlike harsh synthetic fertilizers that can dehydrate soil life in high concentrations, these naturally chelated nutrients safely nourish the plant, creating a thriving, self-sustaining ecosystem where plants can efficiently synthesize their own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff.

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Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Hey everyone ☺️. This week she made a nice boost. I have decided not to use any more training and to send them into bloom next week :-). This week it was poured twice with 1.2 l each. The tent was cleaned and the humidifier was refilled. I wish you all a lot of fun with the update. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/cream-caramel/ Type: Cream Caramel ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blue Black x Maple Leaf Indica x White Rhino 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Bio Bizz Coco ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 .

Hi growmes I'm happy with our my good plant is coming along I thought my little Mars hydro sp150 light was not powerful enough for a 2x2 tent in flower but when reading the master growers diaries with the same plagron nutrients and Zamnesia biscotti seeds there girls was not joining up into huge Cola's so I'm guessing it was genetics but I'm still very happy with all that I have learnt for my first grow. Was reading this week's growweedeasy newsletter and there was a photo of a members first grow hanging up drying and growweedeasy were saying this could be you if you pay for our master class and I know your harvest will get smaller when they are drying but they were all little and airy not even one big main cola if anyone gets a chance take a look it's a joke considering this is the picture there using to advertise signing up and paying for their master class. Also my diaries are out by about two weeks but can't be bothered to change it not very computer savvy but I still think this app is hard to use but should get better the more I use it 😂

Harvest

Super tight nodes, been growing great!

The Hawaiian ladies got some loving this evening. Their second net put up, pots topped up, and a extra drink… Strains- Hawaiian hurricane, mango smoothie, and Hawaiian gold Light- TS3000 + FC4800 Tent- 4x4x6.5 Thanks @ miss_tabi_kat

3/11 to 3/17 Veg Days 22 to 28 Week 3 Transferred to Auto pot base and continue to top feed for another week before setting up and turning it on. Began node strength training by simply pressing down on the branches to encourage water way repairs into the branches since these are the main arms of my mainlines. They more than doubled in size in just 4 days. Feed this week was 3 cups of 6.3ph RO water once using 100ppm of Veg Mix (recipe Week 2) However, I also added 1ml/gal of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0). Then about 4 days later when I transferred to the auto pot, I added .5gal of plain RO water to top feed over the new soil. Feed plan next week will be to start using the reservoir and autopot base feed by the end of the week. I expect to use another .5 top feed prior to that tho.

Day 21 I defoliated all the purple stem fan leaves. Now feeding full strength additives. I will leave them in two litre pots too finish up.

Day 36 Flowering: Hi all , hope we are preparing for the weather changes and stocking up stress hormones for the heat ?. I am hoping i have timed this last group of autos and their 18 hours light needs to finish as the heat rises . I am excited to be running the Herz O.G again as a photoperiod along with the Exotics seeds fast sherbet. should be fun. I amended the soil today with the last use before harvest of the ecothrive charge and eco-life and water. I am hoping the combination of Megacrop and living soil can be balanced as I love both products for their abilities and use The Herz O.g is an impressive lady so far and has begun to stack those colas very nicely on all her mains. She is looking very productive early on and will no doubt build some very chunky fat colas. No signs of any stress or issues and even at a full feed , she just gulps it up and grows bigger.. I do try to feed to just the point of tip burn to keepnthem at max feeding but with autos and a living soil this has been harder to achieve. it buffers very well in the l.o.s. I have raised her up to get her nearer the lights until I move a much bigger plant put to harvest. Strawberry Cola is slightly taller than the Herz and is beginning to form some nice colas that want to join up already. Another great lady in the making. Monster mash has stopped going vertically finally and makes her the tallest girl in the house ... Her node spacing had me worried initially that she would be clusters of buds rather than long colas but she is starting to close the gaps now so lets see. She has some nice growth overall and once I move a few more plants out I will get her set out a little better for more par. All of these girls have been feeding well and have grown very quickly so far. The next few weeks will be fun too no doubt. grab some of these seeds for an easy ,healthy grow. be safe growmies.

This week was fully focused on correcting salt buildup and preparing a clean, controlled finish, with quality and terpene preservation as the main priorities. 🔹 Key irrigations – Final Flush was applied with real 30–40% runoff, successfully reducing EC levels in the root zone. – Follow-up irrigation with plain water only (pH 6.2) confirmed a consistent EC drop across all pots. – Plants are now in controlled senescence, with no signs of active nutrient lockout. 🔹 Runoff data Runoff EC is now within safe ranges (≈1.5–3.0 mS depending on plant), confirming the flush worked and roots are in end-of-cycle mode rather than aggressive uptake. 🔹 Environment & light – PPFD adjusted (~700–780 µmol/m²/s) – Stable temperatures – Humidity tightly controlled to protect dense colas Everything dialed in to preserve resin and avoid unnecessary stress. 🔹 Plant status Flowers are fully formed, trichomes mostly cloudy with early amber showing, final structure locked in. At this stage we’re no longer chasing bulk, but ripeness and internal clean-up. 📌 Plan Final days with minimal intervention, observing real pot weight and plant response. Harvest window is very close and right on target. ➡️ Next post will be harvest day and the start of drying. Thanks to everyone following the project and sharing feedback — every cycle is a step forward. 🌱💪

7/29 - Week 9 of veg is starting. At this point, it is just let them grow up a few inches, and also fill out the pots some more with roots before transplanting to 5 gallon fabric pots (their final homes). I also plan on mixing a 'flower blend' soil to fill up the 5g pot around the rootball that is transplanted. This recipe for the soil is taken from MaximumYield: Enhanced fruit/flower potting soil recipe This soil recipe is designed for plants that are ready to fruit or flower. In particular, this recipe works great for ornamentals that are already in bloom and for fast-growing annuals that are entering their fruiting or flowering stage. Parenthesis indicate small changes or products I'm using. 1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss (Promix BX) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) coco coir (Mother Earth Coco Peat) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) compost (either compost or manure) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite 10 cups pumice (likely to just use perlite here) 5 cups worm castings 3 cups bat guano (high phosphorus) 1 cup fish bone meal (using regular bone meal, got Jobe's Bone Meal) 1 cup oyster shell 1/2 cup seabird guano (likely to just add as the high phosporous guano) 1/4 cup alfalfa meal 1/4 cup fish meal (Down to Earth Fish Meal) 2 tbsp. langbeinite (Down to Earth Langeinite) 1 tbsp. glacier rock dust (Azomite ordered from Amazon) 7/30 - While technically the morning of 7/31, lights haven't gone out yet, so it is still the 30th ;) It almost hurts posting pictures today, because they were really thirsty, but I honestly hadn't looked at them for a couple days. Anywho, the plants were watered with ~1.25 liters of water each, about 90 minutes before lights out. Will be interesting to post the 7/31 photos after a couple hours of lights on, and see the difference in appearance. I also mixed the soil for flowering, and it will now have a couple weeks to 'cook' and become ready for the plants. I did make a mistake and accidentally added 1 cup of fish meal instead of 1/4 cup (oops), and the alfalfa meal just smelled too good, so I added 1/2 cup instead of 1/4. Hopefully those 2 'changes' don't add too much nitrogen for flower, but I imagine it won't. I also instead of adding perlite (didn't want to buy a 4 cu ft bag when I needed at most 2.5 gallons (1/3 cu ft), so I opted to add 1 gallon of pumice. Since the coco peat and promix both have perlite in them, I didn't want too much added. There were also some worms from the compost that made it into the tote that is now storing the mix, so life has already started in the soil. 7/31 - It wasn't just after lights on, as I didn't have time to photo earlier, but this is just about 24 hours after watering, and praying/looking good. I had noticed that it looked like the fan had slipped down the pole a bit, and was causing some wind burn/clawing of the leaves yesterday, which probably attributed to poor looks, but looking better today! While I am not that versed in checking preflowers, from what I can tell, if I had to guess, CH#1 could be either (maybe slightly leaning towards female, thought I might have saw a couple hairs), and the #2 actually looked male to me. 8/4 - After getting home from work, and realizing I hadn't checked on the plants in a couple days and I knew they were due for water either yesterday or today, I saw some THIRSTY plants. They each got ~1.2L of water, and also a quick trim back. After checking preflowers again, I am afraid that both Chinook plants may end up male :(