I'm really not disappointed with the growth this week. All are doing well except the Royal Cheese but she is fighting against the damage. Keep Growing everyone! 👍

El día 19 de floración se hace poda de brotes bajos y una pequeña defoliación de hojas de abanico 👍

i think we starting grow 🤘

5 beautiful young plants!!! They r indicas. Exiting for results. 🙌🏻🙌🏻

This is the week right before the 24 hour dark period and switch to 12-12 looking very healthy

Going well

9/7/2021-at the end of the cycle I thought that the flowers get bigger .. nothing to say about the quantity. a strong smell reminiscent of something sweet. the buds are hard and coated with glue. I am washing the roots. ready to harvest up to 2 days again and then cut. Sorry for me traslate 😅

grow room adjustments this week. plants are now more spread out under a total of 5 600w HPS lights. 3 fastbuds plants have an additional 45w LED light. by week 3/4 they will occupy my whole grow space and an additional 3 600w HPS lights will be added. Plants are looking healthy and 10 or so have been topped for the first time on day 8. dinafem cookies are looking very good in structure. will upload pics every day until harvest! thanks for looking. UPDATE day 12 veg, they are looking beautiful better than i expected. there are 36 in 15litre pots now and i cant wait to make my final grow room upgrage next week and for my room to be looking like a forest! im hoping for 2-3kg off these girls and only time will tell. i will keep doing daily updates until harvest

Day 57 this little lady last weekend showed up with some burning on the leaves but I’m. Not really sure it was an excess of nutrient, signals of a deficiency of K and P are also visible. So I just gave oh controlled water with regulator and enzym+ and some calmag, now everything looks fine and i ‘ m sure I t will be great this week. Tomorrow, feeding day! Day 59 lady si farting up every day, I’ve been feeding her the last two days. The yellow on the leaves is just because of a water deficiency from the last week, I wanted my lady to absorb everything I gave. On day 57 I gave 1 lt but it was too dry, so on day 58 I gave her another lt and she took it all with PH 6,2 and PPM 1000z I think I’ve got 20/25 day max left so this will be the last week of fertilising from Day 70 I’ll start mi flush. Day 62 today feeding day I finally get my p-boost and k-boost from aptus. She drunk 1 lt with ph 6,1 and ppm 1090 Let’s see🌱🌱🌱🔥🔥

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

shes still drinking and feeding so I think ill give her more nutes in todays watering probably 3ml of b 3 of a plus the 2 ml of cal mag in 3.5 litres of water. She is strong smelling so you will deffo need to be prepared. I think she will be ready to chop by sunday next week

~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ 10/14/21 😻 Everything looks great!! It's not often that our seedlings pray like this, they couldn't be happier under this MarsHydro..we should of noted last week that all seeds were placed immediately in their final pot (we do transplant autos sometimes, this was more for convenience) ..being a new light we're a little iffy on distance but 24 inches has them pointing skyward (we're keeping a close eye for any buring)..we typically do 18/6 for all autoflowers but thought we'd try 20/4 for a change..we'll update again midweek..thanks for reading if you made it this far and happy harvests everyone!! ❤️💡🌱😽💨 ⚡Mars Hydro/SP-3000⚡ Specifications ⚙️: Diodes: Samsung LM301B / Osram 660nm (960 total!) Driver: Meanwell 300watt 🔌 (300W±5% @AC120V-277V) PPF: 824umol/S ☢️ PPE: 2.8 µmol/j 〰️〰️ Lifespan: >50k hrs ⌛ Veg Coverage: 3 x 5 ft 🌱 Flowering Coverage: 2 x 4 ft 🌼 Weight: 10.1 lbs (4.6kg) -Uses an aluminum heatsink (no fan) and the driver can be removed to be placed outside the tent 🌡️⬇️ -IP65 waterproof ratings, tolerant to high humidity grow environments 💦 .. -Up to 30 of these lights can be daisy-chained together and controlled from a single light! 💡~💡~💡~💡~💡 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_

Último día del año y último día de la semana 9 de las bebas. Está semana que entra sería la última de la white quizás llegando a fin de semana corte solo las puntas y dejé una semana más los bajos o en caso que le falte la esperaré una semana más (creo que es lo mejor) viene muy compacta y olorosa, resina no veo tanto como en blue moby que viene con menos producción pero que dejó en segundo y tercer lugar a las otras en producción de resina le quedan 2 semanas veremos cómo sigue evolucionando pero estoy fascinado. Moby dick viene atrasada pero avanzando de a poco espero que no quede estancada y me quedé flaca seguro se atraso por el estrés de que se cortó su punta principal hace un par de semanas pero bueno creo que vale la pena esperar a todas!! Desde lo personal les deseo que empiecen un año mejor al que paso y que les traiga más lindas experiencias con el cultivo y los más bellos cogollos, un avance hacia la legalización en dónde todavía se les prohíbe está hermosa planta, felices fiestas y próspero año nuevo! Buenos humos! 🙏💪

put a heater in the room and hit 100 degrees just now getting back was very close to losing them vary sad plants im going let these veg for 3 mouths at least hope no stress like that happenings no more i really want 10 15 clone off one them for this summer

Nada de complicaciones.

The plant can finally enter the ideal environment, it has adapted very well. It remains strong and vigorous.

The colas keep filling out and getting longer and smell amazing. It's been warmer and more humid outside so RH in the tent has gone up. I added a mini air purifier I wasn't using (no ozone) as an extra precaution against mildew. I woke up in the middle of the night on Monday and realized that the air purifier has a light on it so I got up and turned it off. I was worried that I'd messed with the dark cycle so I left them in darkness for an extra 2.5 hours. My cool tube fan fell off the next day, onto my plants. They look undamaged. I taped it up again and set up a safety wire like the filter and fan have. I need a better solution for next cycle. The buds are beautiful and having an even canopy is great. It's hard not thinking about the end result. The buds still look small compared to the big colas of a traditional grow shape but there's still a couple weeks left. There is some bud formation under the canopy but it's a little light. The tops of the colas are fat but short on the 7 gallon plants and taller and thinner on the 5 gallon plants. I did leave a couple offshoots on that developed in late veg/early flower. By the time I caught them, I felt they were too mature to chop and I thought they helped fill out certain areas. But those ones have fewer bud sites and tend to be just a cola on a branch that shoots straight up which is still good. I do wonder if less crowding would have given me bigger buds, but I think it has more to do with pot size. This is week 7 of flower. I switched to half strength nutes and started adding fancy molasses (18ml/gallon). I broke my pH tester and didn't replace my SCROG net until after I finally watered the next day so the canopy changed a bit. I took the opportunity to rearrange the plants a bit. Crystal formation increased a crazy amount the day after I started adding molasses. I think I'll keep adding molasses even during flush. The CBD Blue Shark has this really beautiful white glow. The pistils are very strong and white and the trichromes reflect back this silver light. The leaves are a nice semi-glossy dark green which gives great contrast. It's just a beautiful plant. The Wedding Cake has a lot more colour with lots of red hairs and some yellow tones in the pistils. The fan leaves are more prone to yellowing and death than the leaves on the CBD BS. The buds seem more structurally dense and are really working on these pyramid shapes that look like delicious orange and green snacks. The buds on the CBD Blue Shark are more symmetrical and kind of otherworldly like some kind of sea creature.

! this is my current status, gonna upload my last veg weeks within the next week - got a bit busy around Spannabis - thank you for your understanding! 💚 Welcome to Bud Boutique Grow Diary - really appreciate all your love and support :) Dont forget to check out my other current grows! 🗓️ This Week: - Day 24: attaching once a week APTUS Foliar with Regulator & Nutrispray with the amazing CannaFogger by Petra Grow - Day 28: bud development is super beautiful on each pheno #1 and #2 Thank you for still staying with me 💚 ___________________________________________ --- 🌱 Strain (Sponsor) --- 🏷️ P.C.R. by Art Genetix https://www.artgenetix.world/product-page/p-c-r --- 🥗 Nutrients and Feeding (sponsored by APTUS: APTUS Ambassador) --- 🍸 APTUS: full nutrient schedule extreme -- Regulator, N-Boost, P-Boost, CaMg-Boost, K-Boost, Allin1 Liquid, Startbooster, Topbooster, Enzym+ every feeding -- Fulvic-Blast, NutriSpray as Foliar each once a week 🔗 https://aptus-holland.com/ --- ♻️ Grow Control (Sponsor) --- TROLMASTER: TENT-X + LM14 Light Adapter to dim/sunrise/sunset lights + Temp & rH Sensor all remote on App 🔗 https://www.trolmaster.eu/ --- 🚿 PetraGrow (Sponsor) --- CannaFogger Foliar Spray 🔗 https://www.petratools.com/product/petragrow-cannafogger-atomizer-new-mini-fogger --- 🏭 Grow Setup --- 💡LUMATEK Zeus Pro 600 * 🏠🌿 Indoor: Homebox 120x120x200cm (4x4) * 📐🌀 PrimaKlima exhausting Fan 1180m3/h (running on 60-80%) * 🌀 Can Light Filter 800m3/h & 1x Fanbox 1x Dyson fan for Air circulation 🔗 https://lumatek-lighting.com/zeus-600w-pro-29/ 🔗 https://primaklima.com/de/shop/ventilatoren-de/ec-ventilatoren/pk160ec-tc/ 🔗 https://canfilters.com/products/filters/ All Likes and comments are highly appreciated!!! 👨‍🌾 don't forget to check out my Instagram for daily educational content: budboutiquee - Bud Boutique