08/26/2020 2nd week of flowering and temps are down in soil to 68° going to be 56 tonight. Put a video of her sister plant. These girls should go another 8-9weeks but our first frost date is around the 10th of October hope for a warm and dry fall. 08/29/2020 got her tied down, snapped the center branch so I tied her stem upright. Gonna give her one last dose of blood meal (12-0-0)before week 3 starts that should be good for the next 4weeks, and 2 tbls of (4-9-3) so my last feeding will be (16-9-3) for the stretching fingers are crossed🙏

Got everything moved around & the new carbon filter, fans & lights so hopefully I got better coverage with less power👍🏼 Topped 1 of the Gelato OGs today was getting way taller than the rest we will see how she bounces back! Everything else seems to be going great! Day 22 topped & trimmed them up a bit Day 23 started LST on a few Day 24 started mainline on one of the GZ Day 25 trimmed them a little more today

It's time for the outdoor flower stage from a 4 week veg, these girls has mature really strong and have took to its transplant like champs. At this point it's all about monitoring there growth and any deficiencies and on my part patience. Feed skip a day then water then feed then water, y'all get the pattern.

Well she looks a bit better than last week!! Still chugging along. 6.5cm vertical growth this week.

**** HAARVEST ZOE **** Nice Strain , My little Zoe really made all the mistakes you could possibly make. No matter when I give light or want water or fertilizer. It grows and grows and grows, the main thing is that there is light. It was one of my free seeds from Zamnesia. So far all seeds have germinated. I store my seeds in a dark, airtight container at 6°C. Tastes kind of sweet after curing. Greenhouse Feeding is a really easy fertilizer to use. I used the BioEnhancer again and again. My little Zoe thanked me. The BioGrow was used as topdressing and is doing its job. The BioBloom also does its job at the right time. And that's really great and easy if you don't have an autoflower. Of course there is a corresponding product. But I was happy to get anything here at all. Legalization has wiped out the market. But for next time I have an appropriate soluble fertilizer for fast-flowering plants. It doesn't work for 8 weeks :)) I use a Sanlight Evo 3-60 1.5 with Bluetooth dimmer. There's nothing to complain about there. Set daily cycle via app. Helpful if the weather or environment is so bad that you have to regulate the light intensity. 33g after 5 days dry . 24.5 °C to 22°C with 50%-60% . curing in a vaccum box at 18°C . It looks like I'm drying too long. // It tastes a bit crunchy. Day 79: trim , slow vacuum box to cure 22°C and 61%rH . Day 76: videostuff: been drying for 4 days (res 640x480) ( optical zoom x200 - x250 ) Day 72: DLI usage total this Plant : 2236.6 DLI in 70 Days . wet trimmed, cut off, hung upside down. see you after 14 days Day 71: preparing for harvest . 24h long night session . DLI : 0 Day 70: - Sanlight DaylightCycle - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 800PPFD (03:30) - 800PPFD (16:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF video and photo tryouts with the digimicro mobil x300 optical zoom , mostly freehand Day 69: - Sanlight DaylightCycle - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 1000PPFD (03:30) - 1000PPFD (14:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF incredibly hot and rain. lost some terpene :)) Well, summer is coming, Day 68: - Sanlight DaylightCycle - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 600PPFD (00:30) - 800PPFD (03:30) - 800PPFD (14:30) - 600PPFD (17:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF - Added 1L bottle of water It's hot, hot, hot, Zoe would like more water. changed daylight cycle so it match the weather problems. tent is open until my real night comes. 103 flowers (including popcorn) counted, due to an accident about 15 flowers are missing. Day 67: - Sanlight DaylightCycle - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 600PPFD (00:30) - 900PPFD (03:30) - 900PPFD (14:30) - 600PPFD (17:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF - watering bottle water 1.75L weather to hot , changed daylight start time and daylight cycle so it match the weather problems. I'm lucky, buds are still growing :))) Day 66 (we are on the road with maximum sanlight ) - analyse some trichome . - make some Zoom Pics and Video stuff . - Sanlight DaylightCycle : - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 1000PPFD (00:30) - 1000PPFD (13:30) - 800PPFD (17:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF - DLI will stress alot ... Anyway, it's too hot in my room... I open the tent and now everything is fine with the temperatures and I increase the Sanlight to 100% for the first time. May Zoe love it or leave it :)) We'll see what happens Day 65 : Sanlight DaylightCycle : ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 800PPFD (00:30) - 850PPFD (13:30) - 800PPFD (17:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF It will soon be ready for harvest.

Lampe 100%

Getting there

All going well topped four of them I think the wedding cake at the back left is doing the best💚👊

MrJones Cream Mandeiran Auto XL - ViparSpectra XS2000 240W Infrared Full Spectrum LED Grow Light ´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪 WEEKLY GOALS 🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪 🏡Indoor - 3"x4"x8" Custom Built Grow Closet 🌞Environment - 80F and 50%Humidity - using Humidfyer as needed. 🌾LST and Defoliation - this strain likes to stretch! 🗓️Week 2 Seedlings ⚱️5-Gallon 📊6.2 PH 💧 Feeding / Using Dr. Earth Dry Organic Amendments - Home Grown & Bud / Bloom Booster 🌞ViparSpectra XS2000 240W x2 Infrared Full Spectrum LED Grow Light 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between products each month for Integrated Pest Management. ´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪 PLANT UPDATES 🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪 📝 Notes - Girls are just blowing up, they have doubled in size and started producing their second and third nodes, the leaves look perfectly healthy! The ViparSpectra XS2000's are just killing it! ╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪⊱╮ 🔶Sunday 06.20.21/ Continuing feeding just H20 PHed to around 6.0/6.5 🔶Monday 06.21.21/ Continuing feeding just H20 PHed to around 6.0/6.5 🔶Tuesday 06.22.21/ Continuing feeding just H20 PHed to around 6.0/6.5 🔶Wednesday 06.23.21/ Continuing feeding just H20 PHed to around 6.0/6.5 🔶Thursday 06.24.21/ Continuing feeding just H20 PHed to around 6.0/6.5 🔶Friday 06.25.21/ Continuing feeding just H20 PHed to around 6.0/6.5 🔶Saturday 06.26.21/ Continuing feeding just H20 PHed to around 6.0/6.5 ╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪⊱╮ Cream Mandarine XL Auto®️ Information Tall-stemmed auto-flowering strain. This high-yielding 4th generation auto-flowering strain is the resulting hybrid from the cross between selected specimens of our Cream Mandarine Auto®️ (SWS29)) and a Super Tai’98 elite clone. The genetic coming from the Super Tai’98 elite clone contributes with interesting Sativa characteristics to this hybrid, such as bigger size, but also subtle aromatic and spicy tones with hints of wood and nuts. The so much appreciated Cream Mandarine Auto®️ genetic contributes with traits from the Indica side, such as high flower and resin production, but also sweet and fresh aromas with tones of citric fruits of the mandarin orange type. DATA SHEET Variety SWS55 Indica: 35% / Sativa: 63,4% / Ruderalis: 1,6% THC: 18-23% · CBD: 0,6% Indoor Yield: 450-650 g/m2 Outdoor Yield: 50-300 g/plant Indoor/Outdoor Harvest: 9 weeks from germination Height: 110-150 cm

These 2 are shooting up fast man! Literally not had to do anything to them after the main lining was complete the shape has remained and its solid lol may need to get a tomato ring to support or some yoyo strings to hold up once flowered. Applied some cal mag and micro, grow to this feed to try and improve leaf colour. Need to lower nitrogen now so hope it works.

5ª SEMANA DE FLORACIÓN. COGOLLOS YA COMENZANDO A ENGORDAR. PARAMOS CON EL BIG BUD. AUMENTO DE LA POTENCIA DEL LED AL 100% PARA QUE ENGORDEN AL MÁXIMO LAS FLORES.

Day 22: re-trained new branches with LST. Trying to train a clone is proving to be kind of annoying. Whatever. Did a meal of 1250 and it seems a bit too low. Will try and do about 1400 next time. Watered today with the 1250 again. No PM showing up again yet. Sprayed with H2O2 in case. Day 26: re-training daily now. Reacting very well to about 1500 EC. Run off is still low, but higher than before. Going to raise it a little bit more to get it going before flower. Been spraying every other day with H2O2/H2O. Still no signs of PM. Sprayed with second treatment of neem oil. Growing faster now. Started having to loop around the main stem with LST. Going to be about a 6 week veg time for this guy because of the PM. Probably would have switched by now if it wasn't for the PM. Gives my other non-clones time to catch up. Day 27: first day of 12/12. Plants will only receive 12hrs of light today. Removed any red lst trainers in anticipation for stretch. Left the wire tied ones alone. Fed at about 1700. With R/O water my pH has actually been staying "perfect". I was using the system with tap before and would always have to adjust it a bit with ph up/down. The company recommends r/o water for a reason. Still no signs of PM and it's been over a week. Did a second spray of neem oil yesterday regardless. Looks great. Already did a heavy defol. a week ago so I think I'll be straight going into flower. I'll defol in a few weeks once the colas are noticeable.

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

They just keep stretching! The "smaller" plant added 10" of vertical growth this week alone. Busy week structurally as I had to move lights and wires to adjust for this change in size. Excellent bud growth on one, the now taller girl just showing bud sites formation.