Progress from last week some of the pictures/videos are 2 days apart you should see the difference in them all in all a busy week so short and sweet happy flowering

Hi everyone. Welcome to my🍌💜👊 week update. Hope everyone keeping well and having a great week. Daily updates and uploads so if week not over yet. Please revisit to see full week content😊 Thank you all for such amazing support 😊🤗💜 So far everything is going great. No issues at all. Both girls started preflower on Tuesday and already I can see that they started stretching nicely. Scrog net will be installed by the end of this week. Week 5 13-19 Nov. 13/11 day 36 First runoff experience for girls. Loaded both pots with approx. 2.5 ltr each in 4 stages of 500-700ml. Runoff 100-150ml from each. Runoff PH 5.9. Nutrients for this watering were same as on previous week and added only calmag. Next watering possibly Friday but with new measurements. 14/11 day 37 Both 🍌💜👊 girls started preflower on same day. Xena is catching up quick to her larger sister and possibly soon they will be sharing this growing space 50/50 15-16/11 days 38-39 Just happy and healthy days 😁 nice steady growth. 17/11 day 40 Second watering for this week. 5.5l beetwen both. Runoff Ph 6.1 19/11 day 42 Most busiest day so far. Both girls got very bushy in last few days and they stretched enough to install scrog net. Before installing net applied selective defoliation on both girls. 8-10 fan leaves from each. It's the end of this amazing week 😁 Thank you all again for such a great support 🤗✌️💚

Love every plant each one is growing differently stacking different even the visual difference of one strain growin two different ways combined smells of diesel, pez candy and lemons

Hey today last day... Baby is through.. it was scrubbed a bit by the hail on wednesday... I'll cut them off whole and hang them up in a cool place. Next time harvest day... I've already eaten strawberries.. it smells very good. smoke sample was made, was able to dream/sleep wonderfully chilled for an hour. Very relaxed and calm turn++ not so good: extremely dry mouth after getting up + throat... Taste light and pleasant smell strong.. All in all, I would recommend but rather indoor

she likes the heat a lot, i added the co2 on the 21st day, i saw all the difference in the next hour, it's amazing how they can store so much light/she likes the heat a lot, i added co2 to the 21st day, i saw all the difference in the next hour, it's amazing how they can store so much light * I still have not turned on the HLG 300

19.1.25: I have watered all plants with 300ml of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3, with 1/3 jar of black strap molasses with Ecothrive Biosys-1g. I am looking to increase the sugars for microbial life and plant processes. It'll also add some extra Calcium, Magnesium and trace elements. I also, watered all plants with Bloom nutrients. Using dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 with the following nutrients: (ml/l) ;- ♡ 2ml Cal-Mag ♡ 2ml Ecothrive Flourish ♡ 2ml Xpert Nutrients Bloom Booster ♡ 2ml Biobizz Bloom ♡ 2ml Biobizz Top Max ♡ 1g of Ecothrive Biosys I watered around 1-3 litres per plant. Depending on size and requirements. I'm still spilling water containing the nutrient solution. 🙄 I am using this to rub into the leaves. I think a nice foliar massage won't do any harm, make the most of the situation. The plants have become very hungry and thirsty. Increased the water by double. I ran out of my TNC cal-mag. I decided to order the Xpert Nutrients brand, as I like their products. It isn't organic as far as I can tell, but I don't think it matters too much to me, to be honest. I also want to top dress this week, so I bought some Green Leaf PK bud Booster dry amendment from Amazon, too. I'll mix it with canna coco, perlite, worm castings, and Ecothrive Life Cycle. 24.1.25: I went ahead and top dressed all the plants with 4.5 gallons of my supersoil custom mix. This consists of the following substrate and dry amendments: ♡ 60% Canna coco ♡ 20% Worm castings ♡ 15 % Perlite The remaining 5% consists of the following dry amendments;- ♡ 10g Ecothrive Biosys ♡ 1 Tsp RHS Mycorrhizal Fungi granules ♡ 3 Tsp Vitalink Bat guano ♡ 4 Tsp Diatomaceous earth ♡ 8 Tsp Ground Cinnamon ♡ 10g Green Leaf Bud Booster PK booster. ♡ 3 Tsp Ecothrive Life Cycle. •Worm castings for some all round nutrition. •Cinnamon for mildew and bug repellent. •Canna coco base substrate. •Perlite for adding oxygen to the root and soil system. •Green Leaf Bud Booster PK Booster for blooming. Building strong big buds. •Vitalink bat guano again for Bloom. •RHS Mycorrhizal Fungi granules, to boost beneficial microbes. •Ecothrive Life Cycle for lots of great benefits. •Diatomaceous earth for Silica. •Ecothrive Biosys, for an extra microbial boost. Thanks for checking out my diary 🍃 ✌️

I cut them down the night before the open houses started. The White Widow looks really good. I put them in darkness for 72 hrs, then cut and hung the whole plant, then wet trimmed hung for 18 hrs/day and put in paper bags for about 6 hrs/day for 4 days with a fan oscillating close by. Then in bags for one day, now they've been dry trimmed and put in jars. 50g for the White Widow and it looks great. I can't wait to smoke some.

8/17 Watered everything but the 50. Found two leaves with sep markings on the pink kish in the 50. Definitely not using old soil again. I'm pretty sure THIS plant contracted it from the soil and not the way the others did with the lawn mower and birdseed hijinx. It's supposed to rain for the first time basically all summer. It's am 80% chance so I HELD OFF ON PLANT DOCTOR AND DID NOT APPLY as I'm supposed to have a clear day after. I'll apply the plant doctor in the morning. I'm hoping this rain will knock down a bunch of those thrips. They seem to be on a small branch on a plant or two. One or two leaves show damage and I'll pick them off. I figure I'll get them after I apply plant doctor. I'll use either citric acid or just my regular bt-k pillar treatment with Castille or liquid soap. That will kill them as well. I'm on really worried about it. I also might just buy a bunch of lady bugs and unleash them once things get further along. EDIT: TOOK A QUICK VIDEO AND A COUPLE PICS. HOPEFULLY WE GET THIS RAIN. IF NOT IM GOING TO TREAT THE THRIPS THAT ARE ON TWO PLANTS NOW. I THINK IM GOING TO GO WITH BT-K FOR NY PILLARS AND HOPE THAT THE DISH SOAP IN THE MIX KILLS THE THRIPS. I HAVE LOTS OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS SO ILL FIGURE SOMETHING OUT. BUDS SEEM TO BE EXPLODING IN GROWTH. OH AND THANKS TO THE OUTDOOR GROWER THAT MESSAGED OFFERING TO HELP. I APPRECIATE THAT. THANKS. 8/18 We got the rain we were expecting. It was sheet rain for a few hourscand rained during the night. Everything was drenched and it was cold (50°F). I shook off the special kush that's way further in flower. I decided to use the leafblowrr despite the risk of spreading anything. I did it so that it wasn't ever blowing TOWARDS another plant but still. I was hoping it might blast off some thrips that might have survived that torrential rain. We've never had a dry summer like this. I'll moniter things. My water day is tomorrow so I assume that's when the girls will get their plant doctor dose. It's a great time of year for cannabis growers. We get to watch all the hard work we've put in literally pay off. It's very peaceful in the garden. EDIT: Went over at about one to check things out and do some minor defoliation. I checked on the thrip situation and I dont know if I blasted them off with the leafblower or if the rain washed them away bit I doubt it. Ivecmade the decision to treat these little bastards. It's on one plant but it's started to spread to another branch on another plant. I probably just overlooked it but still. Seeing that it rained like he'll and I'm seeing like zero signs of septoria I'm going to treat everything. At least I think I am. I haven't decided what to use. I think I could just use bt and soap and I'd probably be alright. I'd feel better doing that as it's something I'm familiar with. Outdoor growing. It's always something. 8/19 In the 40's last night. Hopefully that will help with the thrips. I was hurried and since today tops at 72° I only watered the 10th planet big mk ultra and the chem dog with preventative plant doctor. I'm not seeing hardly any septoria and if I do itsca random leaf. I mixed up 3tsp of citric acid and some Dawn in a 2 quart hand sprayer and treated the 10th planet that I thought had heat stress and the Pink kush in the ten gal that has the damage. I also treated a branch on my good tenth planet. It was the only branch with markings so I think I've got it early enough. I'm just wondering the best way to tackle this. The pink kush I'm sure, could handle spinosad. That strain is much later flowering. I'll see how the citriccacid works and go from there. If the other girls need water they'll get it when I get home alongcwith plant doctor. I've got some work to do. I'll keep this updated. Opinions are always welcome. UPDATE: THE PLANT IN THE TEN I SPRAYED LOOKS BETTER THAN WHEN I SPRAYED IT! I ALSO DIDNT WATER AS ITS UNDER 70° AND EVERYTHING I WATERED LOOKS WORSE THAN WHAT I DIDNT. WATERING NEEDS CHANGE QUICK WITH A 40° TEMP SWING. THESE THRIPS ARE GONNA HAVE A FEW MORE NOGHTS IN THE 40'S. THE CITRIC ACID SEENED TO KILL ON CONTACT. MY PROFESSIONAL BUDDY ADVISED TO ORDER GREEN LACEWINGS AS OPPOSED TO USING SPRAYS. HE SUGGESTED SPOT TREATMENT BUT AFTER MY RESEARCH ON THRIPS THAT WONT HE AS EFFECTIVE. I HAVENT DECIDED WHAT TO DO. I MAY ORDER THE LACEWINGS AND I MAY CONTINUE AND ROTATE TREATMENT. I DONT WANT TO OVERREACT (WHICHVI TEND TO DO) BUT I ALSO DONT WANT ALL MY LEAVES TO DIE. ILL KEEP THIS UPDATED. IM PLANNING TO GO OVER TONIGHT AND CHECK THINGS OUT. I MAY SPRAY A FEW MORE PLANTS AND WATER WHILE IM THERE. ITS TIME FOR THERE PLANT DOCTOR PREVENTATIVE. 8/20 I watered the two kush in the back WITH THE PREVENTATIVE DOSE OF PLANT DOCTOR as they were dry I assume due to the wind they get. The one in the 50 I found one sep leaf. Looking carefully arpund the garden I can tell that I have a thrip infestation. First time I've fought this and it seems most people don't really know what to do besides predators at the beginning of the season. I'm too far along for spinosad. At least thats what I've been told. My pro buddy said to try to spot treat it. It's not bad bit I'm afraid it might be worse than I think. The plants I treated with citric acid look MUCH better. I think I'll dial the dosage of citric acid down and start with that tonight and switch up treatments. I can get rid of them it's just going to take a ton of work. I think I've had them before and I attributed to something else. I so think that the very early pink kush plants could handle spinosad. I hope so. The plants I watered the other day look overwatered. The plants I didn't water look GREAT. The special kush in late flower looks happier than I've ever seen her. The difference being we went from 104° one day to 72 the next with 46° night Temps. This week is highs of 70's lows of high 40°'s. I've got a lot of work cut out for me. Didn't do a video as I didn't have time but I'll do one

Day15 - Day17: I had some difficulties to get the humidity right. It was either too high or fluctuating too much. I ended up getting a timer for the plug and running the humidifier 15mins every hour. To help with air flow, I have the main duct fan running 4 times a day for an hour. To ensure that there's airflow around the plant, I have a fan in the light as well as a smaller clip-on fan that runs during light hours. I'm not sure how the camera moved on day17... I only watered it mid-day. Day18: The timer on the humidifier and Duct Fan is now keeping the humidity in a good space. VPD now under control Day19: The Vivosun controller perfectly adapted the lighting schedule to an hour earlier, to ensure 6hrs of darkness. UInfortunately the RPi kept it's 04:00 schedule (makes sense). So I captured an hour of darkness. Adapted everything. Will have 18hrs again from Day20 onwards. Day20: In the next days I'll lift the camera higher for a better view of what's happening up top. My mesh-netting-dingsbums will arrive and I'll use this as a platform for the pi+camera. Day21: I'm not sure if I like this angle. I'll only keep it like this until she goes into veg-mode. It at least shows the new nodes growing from different perspective

30.12.24: So I finally became brave enough last night to use LST on my grow for the first time. Watermelon 🍉 is doing much better than the other plants were at this stage, and still better than one that's 7 weeks old already! I'm very pleased with this strain and phenotype so far. As I've implemented the LST much earlier for her, I'm very excited to see what happens in the next couple of weeks 😃 Thanks for checking out my diary 🙂🍃✌️

2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (LIME GREEN CHLOROSIS) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Come walk in the enchanted forest.

End of week 7 ! No more nutrients now only ph water ! 10 days and i will cut them ! They looking so helthy and smells so good ! The buds have very good size and i hope big harvest !!!!

Very optimal setup for everything so far. you can really tell the first sprout apart right now because of the second set coming in. Can’t wait to start using nutrients soon!

Plants have stopped stretching completely and buds are stacking. Supposedly 41 days of flowering to go.

Everything seems to be going alright, one of my plants has extremely shiny leaves almost like oily, and some odd shaped leafs but I’m very curious to see how things go when I switch to flowering considering these are all random bag seeds! Have been trying to look for signs of sex but still can’t see anything yet!

This was a big girl to harvest. She came in at 417.3 g dry, which is a personal best for me. Additionally, I received 36g of nice trim for my tincture. The buds aren't the biggest I have grown, but they are some of the tightest! I really enjoyed growing this clone. She filled out the tent well using a type of SCROG to get the most out of the grow area. I dried the buds on a drying rack for 10 days, and then gave them a nice rough trim. Since this is all for personal use, I don't worry about making them pretty, just functional. She is a sticky girl, and gummed up my scissors more than once. That is a good problem to have! I put the trimmed buds in my Grove 1/2 gal bags for the cure. I have found these bags to be EXCELLENT to cure my buds. No burping is required, they preserve the terps, and keep the humidity between 58 and 62. Perfect! My best harvest to date!

PR x CR clones