So these Jiffy peat moss pellets are the absolute worst!!! I usually use rock wool cubes but I ran out and decided to try these stupid things again. They just get so water logged or so rock hard dry. It’s hard to keep them in the middle. I had to remove them from my cloning machine because they where just to water logged compared to when I use rock wool or clones in it. 2 of the 3 seedlings came up no problem after they dried out a bit and the third one took another day longer and needed so help getting her shell off. For watering, I’ve just been dunking them halfway into my cloning reservoir and letting them soak up water for a second then pulling them out. This seems to get them wet enough but not soaked. 24hrs or so later they are almost completely dry and I repeat. I’m afraid to let them dry rite up cause they get so rock hard, I can’t see that being good at all for the newly developing, delicate roots being formed. I will update some more pics later in the week when I get my starter 3gal DWC buckets built and going. Cheers 💨

15 Noviembre: -Hoy se instaló el sistema de riego "Drip to Waste" que me permitirá hacer riego de precisión, con protocolo "Crop Steering". -Se instalaron sensores de humedad de suelo, para saber cuándo y cuánto regar, el sistema manda datos de humedad de suelo, temperatura y humedad ambiente, etc vía internet a mi celular. -Mañana se comienza con el primer riego de precisión. 17 Noviembre: Segundo día de riego automático, 3.0EC y 5.9pH, las plantas crecen a buen ritmo, las raíces ya están saliendo por los orificios de drenaje a 2 días de transplantadas. 20 Noviembre: Se realizó una pequeña defoliacion de las hojas tipo abanico muy grandes.

_____ Week 6 | Day 49 - 56 ______ Day 49 🌞 - Install 2 LED BARS from Spider-Farmer. https://www.proximitylighting.com/home-2-1 THE OPTIMAL ADDITION OF LIGHT By increasing PPFD levels in the most light-hungry layers of the crop, deploys addional wattage where it's most useful to encourage: • Tighter internodal spacing • Larger average cola size • Increased cola uniformity • Higher output per square foot Day 50 🌞 - 2 Liter each Plant....gluck, gluck, gluck.... Day 53 🌞 - light switch to 12/12 - defoliation all leafs under the net Day 55 🌞 - 2,5 Liter each Plant....gluck, gluck, gluck.... ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Light - 18/6 h - 400 Watt 60% Dim. PPFD - 600 - 650 µmol Temp. avg. - 22,1° Hum. avg. - 72 % RLH

-------------------------------------------- ~DUTCH PASSION OUTLAW AMNESIA~ -------------------------------------------- Outlaw Amnesia is a top quality old-school Amnesia Haze dominant Sativa that will appeal to both beginners and connoisseur growers alike. She is 80/20 Sativa/Indica with around 20% THC and is a cross of our Super Haze with a very special clone of Amnesia. The high is powerful and fast with a clear uplifting sativa high and a strong Haze accent. The taste is fresh, sour, strong and old-school Hazy. Outlaw will stretch more than most, she can triple in height during bloom, and grows well with the SCROG method. Although she can be harvested as early as 9 weeks, a full 12 week flower period may be required for best taste, yield and high. She grows well in all grow mediums with perhaps the best yields in hydro where yields of up to 500g/m2 are possible, classifying this as a high production variety. *description credit to Dutch Passion OUTLAW AMNESIA (DUTCH PASSION) FEMINIZED DATA SHEET Breeder: Dutch Passion Genetics: 20% Indica / 80% Sativa Parents: Super Haze x Amnesia Flowering Time: 11-12 weeks THC: 20% Yield (Indoor): 450-500 gr/m² Height (Indoor): 50cm Available as: Feminized seeds Flowering Type: Photo-period Sex: Feminized *Specified by breeder when grown under ideal circumstances -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- THE SETUP: ~Planted into Jiffy Peat Pellets that were hydrated with de-chlorinated water with SuperThrive added then ph'd to 6.0 @ 80℉ ~Grown 100% organic in 10g fabric pots with Mother Earth 70/30 Coco/Perlite medium amended with 2tbs/g of Down To Earth 4-4-4 / 2 cups/g of Earthworm Castings / 1tbs/g of Dr. Earth Flower Girl 3-9-4, 1tbs/g of Dr. Earth Bat Guano, 3/4 cup of Down To Earth Azomite and 1 tsp/g Down To Earth Fish Bone Meal. ~24hr light cycle during Germination / 19/5 light cycle for Vegetation and 12/12 for Flower ~Straight water ph'd @ 6.2-6.8 when needed and weekly Compost Tea's. __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ WEEKLY UPDATES: 9/27- Week Seven of flower here we go! She's looking good to go with her flowers stacking and her trichome production continuing to coat her flowers! Today she was given 1.5g of de-chlorinated water which was ph'd to 6.2 @ 72℉ which I gave her half through her drip pan (bottom chuggin), the remainder trough the medium. I also gave her pot a 1/4 turn. 9/29- Yesterday I didn't water her, only turned her pot and checked her over... Wow! She's really ramping up the trichomes making her flowers look like their sugar coated! 🤩 I watered her today with 1.5g of de-chlorinated water with 1 tsp/g of unsulfured molasses added which was then ph'd to 6.4 @ 72℉. The molasses will give the microbial colony some additional food as well as supplying micro-nutrients to the plant. I finished out the daily maintenance giving her a check over and turning her pot 1/4 turn to ensure she gets light to every inch of her. 10/1- Yesterday was a 'no water' day as her pot was still fairly heavy to lift. Today she was watered with her usual of 1.5g of de-chlorinated water which was ph'd to 6.2 @ 72℉. Her flowering continues to impress me with her trichome production covering her flowers with 'frost' she's a sight for sore eye's! 😍 She's looking to be on track for a 11-12 week finish and will be an epic cultivar when she's done! 10/3- With Week Seven coming to a close we've got 4-5 weeks to go for this lady finish and she's right on track, looking like a Rock Star! 🤩 I watered heavy yesterday and added 1 tsp/g of Unsulfured Molasses to the 1.5g of de-chlorinated water which was then ph'd to 6.6 @ 72℉. Her pot had some weight to it when I checked today so I'll skip watering her until tomorrow. I finished up today by checking her over and giving her pot a turn. ~Thanks for stopping in! This epic run will be wrapping up in the coming weeks...Stay lifted and be Blessed! 😎🙏~

Very rough week. I noticed discoloration of fan leaves which led to a lot of different deficiencies. Thought I was going to lose my plants.

Day 22: Drain EC 3 feet high and risin'😅( average 3.3 to be exact...) dunno how much whatever-salt is building up in that pots, but it obviuosly doesn't bother the ladies. Dark green colour, very few 'claws', no signs of tipp-burn, new foliage appears in a juicy green and turns dark in an instant, leafs point upwards....... looks like they're happy😊. Planns for this week: - Install the scrog-net - Obsereve plants/soil ( when do i have to feed nutrients again?) otherwise there will be no changes...... Thoughts: These bushy babies will be kind of a challlenge to create this scrog the way i'm used to (basically bending the 4 main main colas to the corners of the tent, upper branches to the walls and spaces between the pants, lower branches to the very center). Now these ladies make so many branches, so close togehter and so equal in length, underneath huge fanleafs..... i'd love to have them in a 100 square meter canna-crib....but in a tent...????? I really hate doin' things without having them planned - but in this case i guess i will have to install the net, start weaving and see what's happening😯 Day 23 Let's keep it positive...... indoor-climate of 64% rh is perfect for my health💪😁!!! ......but in my tent it's killing the vpd😖. at a lousy 24 degrees C, i'm readin' about 60-64 % rh wich results in about 0.7 to 0.8 kPa.* More figures? Here come the crazyones👻!: pH 5.5; EC 4.2😨 but thats only drain from plant 3....... average was 6.1/3.6 The girls busy produce roots, shoots and leafs....... still very green, still not unhealthy.......few claws, no tipp-burn. Basically a comfortable place to be: It's not bad yet - no work but watering - and it can only get better!!!😁 *VPD issue solved: The sensor hung too close to a fanleaf - didn‘t expect this thing beeing so sensitive 😅. Day 24 Climbed new hights this morning: Plant 1 had an EC of 3.8 - the others didn't climb any higher than yesterday. So maybe we've reached the climax..... 😇 Visible growth now - so i installed the scrog-net and will start bending and weaving these days:-) Thoughts: Did beeing out of VPD-range for one day harm my plants? How exact can my sensor measure VPD? after a bit of research i found out: Whatever you buy for less than 200 bucks is far from beeing exact! Even professional sensors have a margin of about +/- 1% in relative humidity. Thermometers at least +/- 0.5 degrees C. This could give some a good guess of the actual VPD BUT: Leaf-temperature-offset is absolute key! Many of our trusted homegrow-equippment isn't even able to measure it (some offer default temp-offset) ....don't wanna go further here - but there's no way to achieve something like a precise VPD-measurement in homegrowing. So why caring for VPD? Even with those less accurate instruments, you may be able to keep your plants in something like a comfort-zone. Way better than only guessing 👆!!! In case i ran a much higher VPD than planned, yesterday (due to a missplaced sensor) , it will not harm or kill my plants. they might have had a bit of stress from dry air - but nothing to worry about! Day 24: Decreasing salt-levels in the drain - excepting plant 4, wich had an EC of 4.0 - so i guess i'm slowly draining exess-salts from top to bottom and might have collected some build-up. The girls seem to be quite okay. Root-growth is vigorous (there are thick, white roots penetrating through the pots, everywhere), the stems are relatively thin. removed the LST-lines. the Sc.r.o.g: only materiels needed, were a climbing-net for gardening (HDPE) cut to 90x90 for my 1x1 tent, 4 cable-ties and 2 meters of strong rubber-cord. Pre-installed the net with the cable-ties, then weaved the cord around the outter cords of the net, led it aroud the posts and pulled tight. Then brought the net into it's final position. Not as sturdy as with a wooden frame - but i had less than half the work and a bit of freedom to move things if necessary. Any shoot will now be put to the next outter square (relative to the center of each plant) as soon as can be held by the net, without harming the top. Once i moved all of the dominant colas to the next square, i'll have to take 10-15cm steps (vertical growth), to reach the next square. As soon as i have about 70 of my 81 squares filled, i'm going to flip to 12/12. Since i'm plannin' to have them full of sugar when flippin', i don't expect too much of a stretch. This way i hopefully have the longest and strongest shoots framing the shorter ones in the center - so the canopy shapes like a bowl, in order to achieve the most even light distribution possible. Day 25: The main colas visibly reached out for the light - but yet i only moved 1 single shoot to the next square. Girls look good, EC is dropping slowly, climate fine. CU tomorrow👋 day 26: on Track... nothing to worry about...... STAY TUNED 👈!

Start of week 5 today, everything seems to be going great! The Gelato OG is by far the biggest plant of the bunch so far but they all seem to be taking well to LST, HST , Topping & defoliation! Will be going in the flower tent as soon as the other ladies harvest so they will probably have atleast 2 to 3 more weeks of veg!

Harvest day - I save my harvest post for the yield results so I have one more to follow. Beautiful grow though and really impressed with the yield and results. I typically only grow indoors, this is my first full outdoor grow with a photo actually. It definitely changed how I view growing seeing the plants react outdoors. Also I’m in newly legal NY state and we would not be here today if it wasn’t for people like Jack Herer fighting for us at the most difficult times to do it. Jack was born in Buffalo, NY so this grow was a grow to pay homage to a man that led the way. This strain has also won the 2nd most cannabis cups behind only Skunk #1 a strain well deserving of the Jack Herer name.

MrJones Cream Mandeiran Auto XL - ViparSpectra XS2000 240W Infrared Full Spectrum LED Grow Light ´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪 WEEKLY GOALS 🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪 🏡Indoor - 3"x4"x8" Custom Built Grow Closet 🌞Environment - 80F and 60%Humidity - using Humidfyer as needed. 🌾LST and Defoliation - this strain likes to stretch! 🗓️Week 6 Flower ⚱️5-Gallon 📊5.8/6.2 PH 💧 Feeding / Using Dr. Earth Dry Organic Amendments - Home Grown & Bud / Bloom Booster 🌞ViparSpectra XS2000 240W x2 Infrared Full Spectrum LED Grow Light 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between products each month for Integrated Pest Management. ´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪 PLANT UPDATES 🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪 📝 Notes - Week 9 is here, the buds are just getting PHAT, should be the last week before harvest, so let's say we are looking at Next Saturday, the ViparStrectra XS-2000 lights are just blowing up on these ladies, just amazing! ╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪⊱╮ 🔶Sunday 08.08.21/ Just watering with H20 PH to 5.8/6.2 🔶Monday 08.09.21/ Just watering with H20 PH to 5.8/6.2, taking a few of the fan leaves, keeping the buds lean, they are fat, wet, and sticky and have a hell of an aroma! 🔶Tuesday 08.10.21/ Just watering with H20 PH to 5.8/6.2 🔶Wednesday 08.11.21/ Just watering with H20 PH to 5.8/6.2 🔶Thursday 08.12.21/ Just watering with H20 PH to 5.8/6.2 🔶Friday 08.13.21/ These ladies are looking great, just watering with H20 PH to 5.8/6.2, looking to harvest tomorrow or sundsay. 🔶Saturday 08.14.21/ ╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪⊱╮ Cream Mandarine XL Auto®️ Information Tall-stemmed auto-flowering strain. This high-yielding 4th generation auto-flowering strain is the resulting hybrid from the cross between selected specimens of our Cream Mandarine Auto®️ (SWS29)) and a Super Tai’98 elite clone. The genetic coming from the Super Tai’98 elite clone contributes with interesting Sativa characteristics to this hybrid, such as bigger size, but also subtle aromatic and spicy tones with hints of wood and nuts. The so much appreciated Cream Mandarine Auto®️ genetic contributes with traits from the Indica side, such as high flower and resin production, but also sweet and fresh aromas with tones of citric fruits of the mandarin orange type. DATA SHEET Variety SWS55 Indica: 35% / Sativa: 63,4% / Ruderalis: 1,6% THC: 18-23% · CBD: 0,6% Indoor Yield: 450-650 g/m2 Outdoor Yield: 50-300 g/plant Indoor/Outdoor Harvest: 9 weeks from germination Height: 110-150 cm

Como mencionaba en el 1er video por intensas lluvias y vientos, la planta más grande se ha partido, intente "repararlo" pero será cuestión de días para ver si ha sobrevivido o no. Por las dudas he regado( a pesar de la lluvia) 1ml x litro de agua. La cantidad de la misma fue de 3litros con flora booster.

Compact tops, short knots and swollen calyces—perfect indica-dominant pattern. Curled and swollen pistils with no signs of burning, resin in rapid densification visible even without lens. Healthy fan leaves, high internal ventilation and high density centralized light. The lateral expansion of the lower site buds begins thanks to the indirect under-canopy irradiation. Next defoliation scheduled to release light on the mid-low nodes. The nutritional regime continues AN + organic top dress, stable pH monitoring.

End of week the plant received flash clean and soon she will be ready for harvest.

Tutto procede nella norma Continuo a dare 9l d'acqua ogni 2 o 3 giorni a pH controllato e con i soliti fertilizzanti L'odore inizia a farsi intenso, lo trovo molto dolce Ci sono diverse punte bruciate e penso sia dovuto agli UV (per ora 1 minuto ogni 2 ore a luce accesa), quindi non penso che aumenterò l'esposizione, al massimo l'ultima settimana o proprio gli ultimissimi giorni, ci penserò ... Edit Ho trovato della muffa su una delle cime apicali Starò via una settimana spero che il problema non si diffonda troppo I parametri ambientali non erano ottimali per la comparsa ma è arrivata comunque Peccato, in aggiunta all'ermafroditismo farà danni, si poteva fare meglio....

Sep 28: Overdose is packing on weight and looking to be quite a big yielder considering I only topped her once and didn’t optimize for it being a photoperiod and not actually an auto. So far so good and flowering is picking up speed. Sunlight gets very weak into October and potentially frost but with UV lights and putting her in the garage on cold nights, this will finish strongly. Sep 29: cool and overcast today so I got the LED light out for supplemental light during midday. Minor hassle really but I know the light is quite weak here in October and this supplemental light will likely make a big difference on a late finisher. Watered with cal-mag and potassium this morning. Went to add N and I have some fish fertilizer still…pH dropped in water and I had to use potassium silicate again to get pH back up to proper range. Oh well, she’ll appreciate it all. Oct 1: gave her another dose of fish fertilizer and potassium silicate this morning. Oct 3: not sure why but I gave her a partial dose of seaweed extract this morning along with the warmed water. With lower temperatures I’m upping the water temperature a bit. Now using about 28 C water in the morning when it’s still only about 5 C. That seems to help and is easy to do with a cheap kettle to boil water. Oct 4: she’s completely purple now but flowers are still blooming and no signs of bud rot. Will try to hold off on harvest for another week.

Jelly donuts indoor now for 2 more weeks or 3 ☘️🍩💚

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Another good week!! I defoliated the smaller of the 2 plants mid-week... I think she is doing very fine. A small hiccup with the feed that same night. Only a few leaves are showing any sign on nutrient burn. I went ahead and fed them again today. I plan on watering them in a day or two... they were very thirsty this afternoon!! So, I definitely need to up the watering. I've still been feeding 3 quarts twice a week. Otherwise, all seems to be going well!! They are frosting up very nicely!! So exciting!! Peace!! Update for grow question: @The8thChevron thanks!!! I pulled them and will hope for the best for now. So close to the finish line. If I see more trouble brewing I will pull the plant. I don't know how to answer directly to you on the grow question.... Thanks again!!