Week 12 Light cycle=12/12 Light Power=130w Extractor controller settings High temp= 24c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 40% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=10 Speed min=1 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=10.01-21.59 Radiator on= below 22.0c Radiator off= above 23.0c Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=22.00-10.00 Radiator on= below 18c Radiator off= above 19c Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Seperate feeding program. #1 and #2 go onto dragon force. #3 and #4 stay on schedule. Fri 8/3/24 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=Bloom nutes. Neutralise=0.1ml/L Silicon=1.0ml/L Calmag=0.5ml/L Terra Bloom=3.0ml/L Sumo Boost=2.0ml/L P/K 9/18=0.5ml/L Easy Ph down=0.15ml/L Ec=1.65 PH=6.5/6.5 Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=190ml/min Flow rate per plant=47ml/min. Total volume made=8L Total volume left=3.5L Total volume used=2.25L Volume per plant=L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff=1.5L Ec=1.9 PH=6.2/ 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #3 (Day 78)(Day 40 flower) 📋 Bloom nutes Sat 9/3/24 #3 (Day 79)(Day 41 flower) 📋 Sun 10/3/34 #3 (Day 80)(Day 42 flower) 📋 Lowered light power from 130w to 120w Mon 11/3/24 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=water Neutralise=0.1ml/L Easy Ph down=0.008ml/L (3 drops total). Ec=0.2 PH=6.0/6.4 Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=190ml/min Flow rate per plant=47ml/min. Total volume made=13L Total volume left=3L Total volume used=10L Volume per plant=2.5L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff=2.5L Ec=2.25 PH=6.1/ 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #3 (Day 81)(Day 43 flower) 📋 Tue 12/3/24 #3 (Day 82)(Day 44 flower) 📋 Wed 13/3/24 #3 (Day 83)(Day 45 flower) 📋 Lowered light power from 120w to 100w Thur 14/3/24 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=Bloom nutes. Neutralise=0.1ml/L Silicon=1.0ml/L Calmag=0.25ml/L Terra Bloom=2.0ml/L Sumo Boost=1.5ml/L P/K 9/18=0.5ml/L Easy Ph down=0.15ml/L Ec=1.35 PH=6.7/6.8 Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=190ml/min Flow rate per plant=47ml/min. Total volume made=8.5L Total volume left=3L Total volume used=5.5L Volume per plant=2.75L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff for 2 plants=1.5L Ec=1.85 PH=6.4/ 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #3 (Day 84)(Day 46 flower)***** 📋 H=82cm D=20cm DLI=40.0 Small defoliation. She is going to run a bit longer then the other fast flowers in this run. Looking good she just lacked the light when it was really needed. Back soon. Take it easy.

Alguien sabe algún remedio para los trips

This strain really surprises any grower in relation to yield. The plant's structure itself does not have much density. The flavor and aroma refer mostly to pine and its production of trichomes is not the best that I’ve seen.

Provided my a full dosage of bio boost and nitro which were 2ml/l and 5ml/l respectively. Will be moving away from the nitro as of next week, just wanted to give the plants their last nitro supplement as they enter flower. My humidity is fluctuating between 58-64 at the moment, but since added a bigger fan to bring it down as far as possible. I’ll be tweaking things over the next week or so to see if I can bring it down to 50. Don’t have a humidifier and will not be able to get one for this grow so knew this was coming. I have a few tricks up my sleeve but need to test them out not sure if it will work. The plants are very healthy with no signs of deficiencies at all, other than a few nibbles on the plants which I have since taken care through my tea application. My focus this week is to: 1. add another light(150 true watts) to my 256 true watts to cover 0.9m2. Need to add a new plug and extend to the cable to do so. 2. Reduce humidity as much as possible 3. Continue LST and tucking of leaves Will be installing the light on 13/4/2021(tomorrow) as I got all the parts I need. You can actually notice the brighter spots in the tent is those with the most growth that’s why installing a new light is now priority. Day 31 - added additional light but now my temperatures has increased. It looks like it’s settling on 30-31 degrees Celsius. Day 32 - starting to dial in with the temp and humidity. Open some vents in the tent to lower temp but has increased humidity. However switched my lights off time from 12-5pm so that my temp doesn’t exceed 29* Celsius Day 35 - humidity and temp seems to be under control now. Getting between 45-55 humidity which I’ll gladly accept. Have a small concern for one of my plants. It’s displaying my symptoms of underwater or windburn but will keep an eye on it.

Semana sel 2 de septiembre al 8 de septiembre 8 de septiembre, fotos del dia Jueves 5 de septiembre 2024. Se regaron con Floralicius plus adicionado con Hidrol-pez + vitaminas.

Well all caught 🆙 now this is the end of week 8 post and wow the frost is not coming in had some more heat issues decided to go up on the lamp percent from 80-85 but the heat load was to high and if I leave the outside air to cool down at night would drop too low in the tent. Started to regulate it a lot better now tho I have taco leafs but still fattening up every week! Breeder recommend 70 days almost there will be keeping close eye on the tricos when it’s time to chop.

Just a few minor notes as everything appears to be going good so far. 2 Weeks into veg, 3rd node is forming nicely. Another week or two, and the first topping will occur. 3/2/2021 2nd Node Complete 3/4/2021 3rd Node Appearing 3/7/2021 3rd Node Complete The Camera is now taking time lapse photos, so I am trying to be even more careful not to change the position of the plant while checking on it. Or getting caught in the photo lol. We did lose a days worth of Time Lapse shots due to a glitch with the camera system during a power outage. I will have to look at adding this to the UPS.

These Blueberry babies are doing great! The had another feeding this week (at the correct dilution this time) and I re-potted them the next day. I used Coast of Maine Bar Harbor blend potting soil that I've been using for years with good results. I color coordinated the new pots and strains so Blueberry is Purple. Got more leaves coming in so I'll have to pinch them soon. The weather here is still a little cool, 45F at night and 55-60F during the day. We had a couple cold, drizzly days and during those they were under the lights and on the heat mat which I bought down to 70F. Still going to be a little while before I can out them out and in the ground. Not much to report with these since they're so easy and carefree!

Dry hanging for 1 or 2 weeks try to hold air humidity by 60 and temp 20

After …

Flower week 2 ! She is doing amazing, tallest plant in the tent, she is much happier now with lower water moisture levels. She is growing super fast, every day she puts in weight ! Very happy with this one !

Day 75 - April 25, 2021 Watering: 010:00AM-10:08AM ~0.25 gallons per pot 02:00PM-02:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 6:00PM-6:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 8:00PM-8:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 9:30PM * 1.77 EC * 6.19 PH * 73.94F Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 12-hours (10:00AM - 10:00PM) ** 10:00AM Lights On (100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 12-hours (10:PM - 10:00AM) * UV Bars On 8-hours (12:00PM - 8:00PM) Air control: 70F-80F (78F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 65%-75% (70% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 65%-75% RH (Lights Off) ~1206PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~645PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 76 - April 26, 2021 Watering: 010:00AM-10:08AM ~0.25 gallons per pot 02:00PM-02:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 6:00PM-6:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 8:00PM-8:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 9:30PM * 1.77 EC * 6.14 PH * 73.58F Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 12-hours (10:00AM - 10:00PM) ** 10:00AM Lights On (100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 12-hours (10:PM - 10:00AM) * UV Bars On 8-hours (12:00PM - 8:00PM) Air control: 70F-80F (78F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 65%-75% (70% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 65%-75% RH (Lights Off) ~1206PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~645PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 77 - April 27, 2021 Mixed new batch of nutrients: 40-gallons (RO water) 10-gallons (tap water) 1.5 ML H2O2 (35%) 0.5 ML Mills Nutrients Vitalize 11 ML Mills Nutrients Basis A & B 1.75 EC 6.20 pH Watering: 010:00AM-10:08AM ~0.25 gallons per pot 02:00PM-02:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 6:00PM-6:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 8:00PM-8:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 7:55PM * 1.77 EC * 6.14 PH * 73.40F Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 12-hours (10:00AM - 10:00PM) ** 10:00AM Lights On (100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 12-hours (10:PM - 10:00AM) * UV Bars On 8-hours (12:00PM - 8:00PM) Air control: 70F-80F (78F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 65%-75% (70% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 65%-75% RH (Lights Off) ~1156PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~540PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 78 - April 28, 2021 Watering: 010:00AM-10:08AM ~0.25 gallons per pot 02:00PM-02:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 6:00PM-6:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 8:00PM-8:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 8:20PM * 1.77 EC * 6.17 PH * 73.94F Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 12-hours (10:00AM - 10:00PM) ** 10:00AM Lights On (100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 12-hours (10:PM - 10:00AM) * UV Bars On 8-hours (12:00PM - 8:00PM) Air control: 70F-80F (78F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 65%-75% (70% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 65%-75% RH (Lights Off) ~1180PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~540PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 79 - April 29, 2021 Watering: 010:00AM-10:08AM ~0.25 gallons per pot 02:00PM-02:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 6:00PM-6:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 8:00PM-8:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 8:45PM * 1.77 EC * 6.15 PH * 73.76F Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 12-hours (10:00AM - 10:00PM) ** 10:00AM Lights On (100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 12-hours (10:PM - 10:00AM) * UV Bars On 8-hours (12:00PM - 8:00PM) Air control: 70F-80F (78F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 65%-75% (70% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 65%-75% RH (Lights Off) ~1200PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~660PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 80 - April 30, 2021 Watering: 010:00AM-10:08AM ~0.25 gallons per pot 02:00PM-02:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 6:00PM-6:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 8:00PM-8:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 9:00PM * 1.77 EC * 6.10 PH * 73.94F Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 12-hours (10:00AM - 10:00PM) ** 10:00AM Lights On (100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 12-hours (10:PM - 10:00AM) * UV Bars On 8-hours (12:00PM - 8:00PM) Air control: 70F-80F (78F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 65%-75% (70% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 65%-75% RH (Lights Off) ~1180PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~730PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 81 - May 01, 2021 Watering: 010:00AM-10:08AM ~0.25 gallons per pot 02:00PM-02:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 6:00PM-6:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot 8:00PM-8:08PM ~0.25 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 9:35PM * 1.77 EC * 6.07 PH * 73.40F Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 12-hours (10:00AM - 10:00PM) ** 10:00AM Lights On (100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 12-hours (10:PM - 10:00AM) * UV Bars On 8-hours (12:00PM - 8:00PM) Air control: 70F-80F (78F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 65%-75% (70% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 65%-75% RH (Lights Off) ~1170PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~540PPM CO2 (Lights Off)

3/11/2023 - 75 days since my baby girl sprouted from seed/harvest time🌱 Hello friends of GrowDiaries. Wedding Glue Auto is a strain that I had the opportunity to grow thanks to breeder Fast Buds. This is a strong hybrid strain with great THC potential. A large amount of terpenes perfumes the whole room with a vanilla and earthy smell 🍭🌍🌍 Technical and general parameters of the breeder Fast Buds: A hardy autoflowering plant suitable for all types of growers thanks to its extremely easy cultivation; An Indica-dominant hybrid that takes 63-70 days from seed to harvest, it is a tall autoflowering flower that grows up to 120cm and produces around 550g/m2. With 26% THC, this strain offers a powerful low-maintenance effect and buds so resinous it looks like it's covered in creamy white icing ❄️❄️. Expect a delicious terp mix of sweet vanilla 🍭 and earthy scents 🌍 that comes along with a fairly strong head buzz 🦋🦋 that slowly transitions into a relaxing body effect. Technical Specifications: Taste: Earthy, Sweet, Vanilla THC: Up to 26% CBD: < 1% Size: XL Height: 70-120 cm Flowering: 9 – 10 weeks Room: Indoor/outdoor Gender: Feminized Genes: Sativa 40%/Indica 60% Genetics: Wedding Glue Auto Autoflowering. Yes For cultivation I used: Cultivation area: 80x80x180cm 1x circulation fan: 15W 🌬️ LED lighting: Mars Hydro TS 1000 - 150W - vegetation and flowering 💡💡 Exhaust: pipe fan - RAMTT100 🌬️ Odor filter: PRO-ECO HF carbon filter 160-240m3/h - 100mm - maximum air flow up to 240m3/h 4x textile flower pots 11l I mix the substrate: Biobizz Lightmix

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Week 9 has finished, she is pretty close to chop 👍🏾

This is it last week. I am going to give her the chop in a day or 2 I am going to not give her anymore water. As you can see, the buds are super heavy. This plant has been an amazing grow, because of the mutation and how the fan leaves are, it really showcases how beautiful the buds are, themselves.. really looking forward to this one big shout out big.Thank you too @Grow4releaf because this would not be possible without him... God bless everybody and happy growing! Next update will be the chop