They are stretching a little more than i expected.. got some light bleaching, try to dim the lights a little since i can't get the lamp any higher.. Defoliate at day 21 again. At day 21 i flush with 3L 1.0EC, 5.5pH and let it dry out. Pheno 4 got some beautiful pink/reddish coloring in the leafs already. (Alot of new white flowering hairs that are stacking up more than other phenos) Let's hope they'll turn out great. The smell is coming true, some have a little sugar leaf. Waiting game is on

Great easy grow. Started In 4.5 inch pots then soft transplanted to 5 gallon pots. Low stress training and leaf tucking and mild defoliation. FastBuds has some high quality genetics. I enjoy them a lot. Thanks everyone for your kindness have a great day

Buds are growing, pistils are getting orange, harvest is approaching! Parameters : ------------------------------------------- Humidity range : 60-75% depending on the sun Temperature range : 21-27°C depending on the sun SUN Average : sunny

Orange has bounced back amazingly after my light mess up and has settled back into a life of flower , it appears the only damage is that it added a few weeks onto the grow .

1/28/24 - Day 83 - Here we are on day 83 and the trichomes are looking good. I bet one week, if not two weeks before I start to flush with water. There are some photos of the Trichomes a couple of weeks ago and then again today. 1/31/24 - Day 86 - The buds are starting to get FAT and grow outward. Tons of new buds coming from the buds. Sounds werid but the buds are growing buds now. The smell is out of this planet strong. Im looking forward to the next couple of weeks!

Increased their food by a tad. Looked perfectly health raised to about 1900ppm. Again spider mites at it crawling up every leaf and creating a colony. I thought it was over until I sat there nearly every night finding the f*****s and rubbing the leaves with the spray. Defoliation was needed ASAP due to them stretching nicely. Started slowly from the bottom up. (repeated this process every 3-5 days.)

They grew a lot this week or so it seems to me, because i was on vacation and havent seen them the last 5 days. SQ#1 and Blue cheese are now my biggest plants Even though i germinated 1 week later and also from the other strain there was one plant that was always bigger than the Rest and now its the second smallest. So far everything was nice, no issues with nutrients, desease or bugs, every plant develops hairs and is female. I think i give them 1 more week to grow and then i‘m changing the light cycle and start the flowering Phase, really excited for that :)

Esa familia, finalizamos la 3 semana de floración la verdad que poco cambios en la flor, en verdad odio la autoflorecientes en indoor, me parece que son mejor opción os un Exterior o un balcón pero, ante todo os tengo que mostrar la experiencia con autos también y que mejor genética que la misty gorilla autofloreciente de Zambezaseeds. Y es que entre la variedad y la alimentación que estamos aportando, gracias a AgroBeta están respondiendo bastante bien, en las próximas semanas imagino que empezaré a notar diferencias ya. Ph regulado en 6.2 temperatura entorno a los 26.5 grados y la humedad está en 50%. Sufro de una pequeña placa de mosca del sustrato, a estas alturas poco afectará pero vaya, que sepan que con el calor del verano pues también sufrí algún problema respecto a esto anterior. Me despido entre buenos humos, hasta la próxima semana.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la octava semana de floración de estas GG4 Sherbet Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Agradezco a Agrobeta todos los kits obtenidos de ellos 🙏. Ya veis que llevan buen ritmo ya tiene un color espectacular. Vamos al lío, El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 21/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%, 7 litros de sustrato. Estás creo que ya irán machete esta próxima semana. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Всем привет. Все-таки решил в начале недели перевести на 12 часов и, в принципе, оказалось очень вовремя. Оно еще подрастет сантиметров на 15 к пику цветения и расстояние до лампы будет прям идеальное. Помимо этого удалил много веток на нижних этажах, чтобы всё шло в основные, а не в мелкую поросль. Так и получилось, растение начало активно утолщать основные ветки и стало еще расти вширь. Листья чувствуют себя очень хорошо, ни единого намека на передозировку или дефицит. Есть небольшой профицит азота, но его совсем чуть чуть. Старые листья, где начался некроз от чрезмерной освещенности, чувствуют себя отлично, некроз прекратился, а листья позеленели и работают на все 146%. Листья стали расти с 11 лепестками. Воды пьет по 2 литра в сутки, корневая разивлась очень хорошо. Нам 35 дней и мо скоро станем еще красивей и будем радовать бутонами цветов. Всю неделю подпитывал 700PPM удобрениями на вегу. Следующею неделю буду комбинировать вегу и цветение. Спасибо, что заглянули. Всем огромной удачи!

8/5/23 - Day 54 - Last night, a successful water change took place. I've attached a picture of the bucket at the top for reference. While I currently perform manual water changes, I have plans to automate the process using the available hookups. Unfortunately, the unit was shipped quickly, leaving me no time to set up the automatic system before receiving the LEAF box. However, on my next grow, I'll ensure the drain and water inlet are properly connected. During this current grow, the bucket you see at the top is always connected to the drain as a precautionary measure. I can activate the draining process through the app, and after two cycles, all the water, including the water collected by the dehumidifier, is efficiently removed. Following the draining process, I fill the box with RO water, and from there, the LEAF box takes over and automatically dispenses the necessary nutrients. This automated system has made the whole process incredibly easy, eliminating any guesswork. I simply empty and fill the water; everything else is expertly handled by the LEAF box. The flowering stage is progressing exceptionally well. The plant has ceased growing upward, and the buds are now thriving and reaching new heights each day. I find myself eagerly looking into the box daily, excited to witness the changes, especially around 2 pm when I can observe the growth since the morning. It feels like Christmas morning every day! As always, I'll keep adding daily pictures to document the incredible journey. 8/9/23 - Day 58 - It's been a few days since I have posted. Thats because Shes growing bud like crazy. You can see the plant has focused on growing the buds because the plant has stopped stretching up and started swelling the buds. We have about 3-4 weeks until harvest. This has been the easiest grow of my life. Basically, I add some water to top it off and that's about it. I have been moving some branches down as they start to get a little to close, but other than that not much input from me. If you are looking for this experience, check out https://www.getleaf.co/

The plants are growing very well. I didn't have any problem this week.

Plantas saudáveis, ótima qualidade, estão reagindo muito bem a alimentação, regas todos os dias e alimentação todos os dias,.cheiro doce

About 10 days for official transition to show.

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High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

This week was quite unspectacular except that my pH was drifting low and I had to counteract. Removed some lower leaves and branches that were only poorly developed.

This is a grow I did last season that went really well. Unfortunately I don't have any veg pictures but its still a cool grow none the less. This is actually week 2 of flower. The plants were defoliated and lolipopped just before the flip and they STRETCHED. The tent was small so the scrog nets were more for support than anything. We had been going through an incredibly hot year here and it was pushing 95 degrees during the day all the way through to October. Luckily my lights run at night to save on electricity bills so I learned that high night time temps are not as detrimental. Hope you all enjoy. Adding Greenleaf Nutrients part A and B at 2.4 and 1.8 at this point.

I had a very amazing time. It took a lot longer with topping the plant, but great results