Finished really fast! Not expecting a very big harvest, they needed a longer veg time, pretty small at start of flowering, didn't use massive bloom this run either Going of the last run expecting good quality. Small buds.

99 Days old - Final Couple of days I reckon.

09/01/2020 Start of week #6 flowering might give a booster shot of OVERDRIVE (I believe it is omri approved). For any last bit of flowering I can coax out of her. PW is spotty at best, and conditions should help prevent spreading. She should be done in 3-4weeks🙏

The biosys is once a week when I cut off the res and can see the tray starting to empty out at the bottom. I then hand water some Ecothrive Biosys to aid the Ecothrive life-cycle in that second to top layer as well as the grow dots in general (it’s just basically a cheaper UK version of recharge, in that it has a lot of the same ingredients) only I figure they are more likely to be suited to my weather conditions if they are grown here. It’s also all REALLY GREAT stuff to add onto my cactus collection - works great! I just going to carry on - this has been the easiest grow iv ever done so far. All you need to do is PH the water and fill the res - all the microbe shit is optional - although IME boosts plant health and therefore yields. My last grow I got 1.8g/w and half of my grow space was taken up with the actual res! I didn’t think to put it outside my 3x3 (ish) tent! Still tho, that’s respectable numbers. Think it worked out to about 3z in total

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

Hey everyone 😃 The time has come , On flowering day 72 the harvest was carried out 😍. After spending two days in the darkroom at 62% humidity, they were now harvested cleanly by hand 😃. After harvesting, they were laid out on the net as usual, where they can now slowly dry again for about 7-10 days at 62%. Then they come with 62% in jars for 2-4 weeks, and then the 58% boveda packs are put in 👍. Of course, I will come to the phenotypes themselves in detail in the last update. Until then, I wish you all the best, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🍀👋 You can buy this Strain at https://thecaliconnection.com/seeds/girls-scout-cookies-34.html You can buy the fertilizer at https://www.greenbuzzliquids.com/ Type: Girls Scout Cookies ☝️🏼 Genetics: GSC Tint Mint 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 - 0.4 EC. Add Cal / Mag 2 ml per l water every 2 waterings . Ph with Organic Ph - Pulver to 5.8 .

Well she has had 2 feeds and has doubled in size in the last week. No signs of flowering yet but looking very healthy. I have stopped lst as she is very bushy and making it hard to train.

I think they are growing fine in general, but maybe a little overfert

6/9 she is 47 days old. Her leaves are dark green. The leaves around the dense buds are thin and frosty. 6/10 48 days old. She is spread some what we'll. There are a few lower buds I would have liked to remove. They're there now. She has fine leaves around the buds. So I think they will get enough light. Maybe I should have tried to lay the branch over more. I did not fill the pot to the top with soil and with the settling. The plant is low in the pot, this makes it harder to tie the branches. Next time I want to get the plant higher, so I am able to work better under the branches. Very hard to defoliate the plant.

Last week for the ladies. I am so stoked to try this. Fruity gas bomb with marker hints and creamy earthyness. No more words needed.

Another good week. They got their first real water twice this week. They are enjoying the high humidity and temps. Right on track so far and hoping they keep it up!

Lots of fattening up happening this week. The smell in the room is wonderful. I am battling Humidity a little bit but nothing major. Not much else to report. I used the FFJ I made which smelled exactly like a few bud enhancers I have bought before.

well i do not know from where to start )) she is my Queen Green Gelato ♡♡♡ we had nutrition burns, spider mites an so and and soonbut! BUT, she turnedout tobe the most potnt autoflowering plant i have ever grown !!! cover in trichomes like diamonds. wonderfull flavor and great tast. and on morehing i have never seen such neavy buds. the buds are not huge but thay are very very heavy ♡♡♡♡ my favorite auto strain so far

Really noticing the buds putting on size quickly. Still another 4 weeks of flower left to go roughly, will start to slowly drop the nitrogen so they can concentrate on fattening the buds

- July 1 - Day 22 - Today she was pruned; some leaves were removed, and possibly some branches were cut - July 4 - Day 25 - LST readjusted. - July 6 - Day 27 - only checked humidity and temperature

Started with flushing pure water. Trichomes getting milky and amber colored Flowering Day: 78

IR lights on 3 auto 3 photo in vega in 2/2 grow box After Co2-1200 ppfd 1200+ Thanks to everyone who answered my question

chopped on 48 days flower! shes so sticky and boy she wreaks but such a pleasant stench! like berry flavored chocolate coffee topped with keef!

Day 65 06/09/24 Friday Feed today using de-chlorinated tap water pH 6. Only update of lemon zkittles as rest are quarantined 🤣 I will upload if they pass the check in 3 days 🙏✌️💚 Day 66 07/09/24 Saturday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today. Mould 😔🤦‍♂️ Day 67 08/09/24 Sunday Feed today using de-chlorinated tap water pH 6. Day 69 10/09/24 Tuesday (End of week) De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today.