49eme jour de fruits se passe bien.

We're starting to make some progress, leaves are looking good. Gaining some decent height, not too much. I topped the plant at the beginning of the week, and it has taken very well. So let's see how it turns out 😁 I watered twice this week with 1ltr of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6-6.5, containing 1ml of Ecothrive Trace and 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys. Thank you for stopping by this week and hanging out! 😉💚✌️🍃😊

One more week and we're done !

Está semana regamos ligeramente con agua dos días y el sábado 12 empezamos a hacer el té para echarselo lunes de madrugada

Update week 1 day 4 of bloom , this week we put the net to make the technique that calls scrog we see next week what is the resul

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 17/11/2019 - Pot feels light and the is bottom dry to the touch time to water, gave her 1,5l of water PH 6.2 with 0.5ml Grow, 1ml, Bloom and 0.5ml Max Biobizz reduced the dosage from last time, watered util some runoff appeared. 18/11/2019 - Mixed another batch of Alg-a-Mic 2ml per liter to spray on lights off PH 6.2

Major morphological changes being observed still. Stretch & bud thickening occurring. Sept 18 - looking good. Hairy hairy buds! Sept 19 - all watered with nutes 2ml/L all. 1.5L each. Sept 20 - looking great, sticky colas when handling, smelling noticeably when opening the tent now & Lina’s hairs starting to brown off. Subtle purple colours are popping on some cola’s - notably BM & TB. Scrog’d them. Need to find out how to make it square and less bowed in..I’m guessing poles or bungee cord? 21 Sept - doing well. 22 Sept - all watered, 2L each w/ bud burst @ 3ml/L and in total 1/2 cup of molasses for 10L. 23 - all good 24 - looking great!

I finally found the time to transplant the Bubblegum ladies to the flowering tent. The seeds were planted on the 13th of Januari, all the seedlings have been topped on february 2nd and transplanted today. They will remain under the 18-6 schedule for the oncoming days.

Sep 1: there might be a bit of lower leaf damage on WP1 after the 2 C night here two nights ago. Otherwise everything seems fine and the buds are progressing. Sep 2: removed some yellowing fan leaves that had been damaged by cold temps. Sep 3: WP1 has finally stopped getting taller and is starting to flower. Good thing too cuz the days get short pretty fast now and it will be iffy as to whether this plant will finish in time. Sep 6: Well, I spoke too soon as WP1 is still getting taller, and it grew 4 inches in 3 days. This far north, it should be flowering not vegging by early September. Oh well. Lots of insect life on WP1 (ladybugs, spider, flys, few ants even) and a few aphids so it seems to be in a balance and the plant is fine. WP2 in the city was force flowered a while ago and is progressing nicely. These are in small 5-gallon pots in an attempt to limit their size and to encourage flowering.

Seems to be going good, idk if I should ad more bloom booster or just use molasses. Also the broken cola I replanted, seems to still be alive but don’t really know what else to do. Just hope I can get these out of some random guys back yard soon.

Lava Cake , I had to grow it because from what I hear people say Lava Cake isn’t all that. I actually like it. We did my girl and I smoke test it . lol said make her horny smh 🤦🏾‍♂️ not only that I got female growmies saying Lava Cake her favorite strain. Sweet and earthy .

Feedback.!.

I flushed 2 times and cut back on Nutrients

i filled the wing up with a boost buddy co2 bag and my plants got a new light and there growing like weeds loving the total package

Week 21 (30-11 to ?????) 30-11 Today i harvested her! I removed all the fan leaves and left the buds on the branches to dry. 1-12 Temperature: 16°c to 19.5°c Humidity: 50% to 56% 2-12 Temperature: 14.7°c to 18.5°c Humidity: 54% to 57% 3-12 Temperature: 16.1°c to 18.9°c Humidity: 54% to 59% 4-12 Temperature: 15.5°c to 17.5°c Humidity: 57% to 62% 5-12 Temperature: 15.2°c to 17.7°c Humidity: 60% to 71% 6-12 Temperature: 16.5°c to 17.8°c Humidity: 60% to 66% 7-12 Temperature: 16.4°c to 17.9°c Humidity: 57% to 63% 8-12 Temperature: 16.6°c to 18.5°c Humidity: 56% to 60% 9-12 Temperature: 16.9°c to 19°c Humidity: 57% to 62% 10-12 Temperature: 17.4°c to 19.5°c Humidity: 60% to 64% 12-12 Temperature: 17.9°c to 20.1°c Humidity: 61% to 76% 14-12 The buds felt dry enough and ready to get their final trim before they go into the jar for curing! Trimjail it is! 16-12 Today i finished trimming everything. This is the end result: Dried bud: 116 grams. Dried trim: 23 grams. Thats over 1 gram per watt, and i am very happy with that!! In the curing jar they go! Let me know if you liked my diary and see you all in the next one!

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Amaing flowers