Starting to dial it in, I think? Finally, it seems my plant was growing faster than the chlorophyll could keep up. Thai and some ph adjustment and I woke up smiling 🙂

Creo que se amontonaron mucho las plantas, muchas puntas sin luz , por lo que procedo a hacer defoliación, algunos amarres para colocar las puntas en algún espacio disponible. Creo que fue un error poner muchas plantas sativas apretadas ya que las veo competir por la luz y eso las hace crecer y crecer. Espero no se me salga de control✌️

Fun to grow and took to lst and supercropping very well. I am keeping a mother of the stinkiest pheno I got. I made some other seeds that I will be growing out after Jinxproof's pheno hunt. I will be doing a few grows coming up here and its going to be gnarly! Stay tuned in for modern genetics that have been tested and stabilized. These were bag seed from regular seed of LA confidential given to a friend that won them in a giveaway from DNA Genetics.

10/13/2024 Reduced light to 85%, which has dropped tent temperatures a few degrees. Daytime air temp high is around 82 again with leaf/bud temperatures around 78. Seasonal changes have dropped outdoor temperatures and therefore indoor temperatures as well. Night temperatures are getting down around 69F. Lung room humidity is bouncing between 45-50%. The plant is looking strong with some definite signs of fade setting in around the canopy. Trichome development is great, a lot of white showing up and starting to look frosty! For the last few days I have not pruned many leaves to allow the plant to pull nutrients if needed. Mainly because I still have not done a full water change in the system. I have continued to water with a reduced strength nutrient solution with the same ratio to maintain the 600 - 650 PPM window. 10/18/2024 It has been a pretty stress-free week. Humidity has dropped a bit lower than I would like so I have had to use the humidifier to keep VPD in check with daytime temperatures in the low 80s. I have spotted a few seeds developing around the plant (maybe a handful). From what I can tell it does not look pollinated and I cannot see any nanners. Either pollen from the second plant was mature enough and stuck around after culling, it pollinated itself, or parthenogenesis is at play here. Regardless, going to finish the plant as planned. Trichomes are about 95% white at this point, by inspection with 30x loupe. 10/19/2024 Started the water change to reduce reservoir PPM to about 450 by pumping some off and replacing the water with pH-adjusted water. About 5 gallons cycled. Reduced lights to 80%. The fade is really taking hold and looking quite nice. Plant is still very healthy and the smells are amazing! Trichomes are about 98% white by 30x loupe.

Welcome to GERGrowDesigns Breeding Cut Phenohunt #1 Diarie Week 5 This diary is designed for a documentation of an indoor grow, with a strong focus on plant health, environmental control, and optimized nutrient strategy to hold this Genetic and use her for Breeding in Future projects . The Harvested Mother Plant ,can be found in the older Strawberry Cola Sherbet Diarie💚 What happend in the past ? -Cut removed from Mother in Flower Week 2 -Clonex Gel used ~10 days Rooting Process - 2-3Weeks Revege Process -transplanted in 0.3l pot -fourth Puplic Diarie Week -transplanted in 12litre pot + Bigger Tent -Plant/Health/Root Care -Motherplant Feeding Shema , low EC , Spraymix Grow Setup & Strategy: • 🌱 Genetics: Strawberry Cola Sherbet -Sweet Seeds • 🏕️ Grow Space: 60x60x150cm • 💡 Lighting: 1x100W LED • 🌡️ Average Temperature: ~26°C • 💧 Humidity: ~60% • 🍵 Pot Size: 12L • 🌿 Base Nutrients: Hy-Pro • ⏳ Flowering Expectation: 5 weeks Special attention will be given to Hy-pro during all phases, aiming to enhance Structure , nutrient uptake efficiency, and final quality, while closely monitoring plant response. Feedback, questions, and constructive discussion are always welcome. Community interaction is a key part of what makes competitions like this valuable. 🌿 Happy growing & good luck to everyone!

White hairs starting to appear on the bushy one and lights on its way New light come and a ph tester and canazm nutrients too Still qaitong on a fan and ph up and down sldo need a battary for the tester Its good that now my 2 plants dont have to fight for space under one small light The cannazym breaks fown old roots and converts it into energy.. i used 2 old pots with dead plants in so plenty there to break down

Time to move on. There might be hints what company seeds im trying next.

Ok so I've moved these babies into flower already noticed the flowers forming and starting to bud this strain is just full of surprises so keep posted to see how these progress through the next 7 weeks of flower let's see if we can out do the last harvest of Barnys farm lsd been a good strain to grow however this will be last crop has have alot more new genetics I wanna give ago

I wasn’t around much this week so there aren’t as many pictures. I regret not having much time as I had/have (not sure at the moment there are no more new white spots popping up) a thrips infection which I tried to correct with some organic insecticides and Neem oil which I always used in the past but completely neglected with this grow and am paying the price now. I haven’t encountered thrips or any other bug before but with a higher number of plants in one box and the fact that I was to lazy to clean my box after the last grow may be the cause of this now.

This grow has been very educational and new. Change in Nutrients and Grow Style by only defoliating once. Very dense harvesting. I used 4 Crop King Seeds Jack Herer Autos. My #4 plant did not look anything like the other 3. It grew out more like a Gelato plant. While harvesting it smelled of Grapefruit! Wonderful Plant to Harvest! For Drying I am using my Black Dog Kit again with putting all buds on drying discs in the Tent. I then exhaust out humidity >60%. Being it is in the middle of summer, I run a dehumidifier in front of the Fresh Air Intake into the tent. That helps keep the Humidity below 60%.

6 October

Day 25 Second topping 🤒🤕

Overall the blue cheese performed good and i knew it was going go to be last to harvest! The buds were so damp and sticky it created some mold on the top cola! Lucky it didnt spread to the rest of the plant! Next time im definitely using some low stress training method for this. Dry weight 34 grams altogether!

I topped yesterday, watered today without fert. sprayed a mixture of oils on the topsoil for pests. Any advice or comments always appreciated -

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

We're in the sixth week of flowering, and now the scents are starting to get very strong, and the buds are completely covered in resin. I've decided to only feed them microorganism-enriched water from now on. The compost tea has eliminated any deficiencies, and the plants are now in perfect shape for the final weeks. Harvest is about 25-30 days away. I can't wait to harvest these buds.

- slowly increasing nutrient doses toward prescripted BioBizz chart quantities, but still, every second and a half watering is pure water :)

Wk 6. Bud