:)

Deluxe sugar cane was amazing to grow from beginning to end. It’s an easy plant that recovers well. The smell gets strong after 2 weeks of cure. One of the best grows I’ve ever done.

Week 2 begins for Green Crack and LSD. Both ladies are looking happy and I increased their feed by 1 liter each. Thanks for stopping by growfessors 👽 tune in next week for another episode of growfessor theatre.

This week has been great for this tester she went through her flowering stretch and it's now ready to fatten up!! Switched to bloom formula and she's loving it! From the top view it's hard to tell she was ever topped!! Below are the days of activity from this week: Day 46 1 gal distilled water 5g bloom ppm 513 Pulled 5 leaves Day 49 1 gal distilled water 5g bloom ppm 544 Pulled 12 leaves Day 51 1 gal distilled water 6g Bloom ppm 645 I'm very excited for this tester grow, it's extremely enjoyable watching these develop and mature. Hope everyone has a wonderful day! Happy growing

Day42 from seed. Day15 of flowering. Going to feed today as shes dried out in the greenhouse.im abit worried about moisture levels inside the greenhouse during the night. Especially when it rains because you can actually see the condensation on the inside. Overall shes really blooming. Day 45. Greenhouse is working a treat. Fed again today. Shes sticky and sweet smelling abit piney and lemony look at the growth Day 48. Due a feed again as shes dried out again. Taking alot more feed in the tent. Shes bloody beautiful 😍

#Day 123 #Week 6 flowering 💐 Oh my God, it's the 6th week of flowering The smell of children is crazy. This week I used advance hydroponics overdrive supplement at the rate of 2 mg/liter because it is really high quality. Thank you for your comment🙏🙏🌷🌷

Hi all 😁 Hope everyone keeping well and having a wonderful week! Thank you all for such amazing support on this bananas journey 💚💚💚 Will be updating this week journal daily so please remember to revisit to see full week content. So far this grow it's going great. Girls are stretching by hour. Great health, nice green colours, more and more squares taken on the netting, flowering nicely progressing, I'm very happy 😁 Planning to apply more selective defoliation, especially to Xena. No changes to nutes except few extra drops of calmag just in case and will try to fill the net entirely. Week 7 Nov 27- Dec 3 Nov 27 Selective defoliation applied on Xena. 8-10 mainly small fan leaves. She is still a bit shy to open as much as her sister. No rush my girl. You still doing great! Nov 28 First watering for this week. 7ltr beetwen them both with 4h spread. Runoffs. Xena 300ml PH 6.1 Athena 250ml PH 6.4 😁. So far the largest amount of my magic mixture consumed by my 🍌💜👊 girls. Well done👏 Nov 29-30 Leaves tucking and joyful observation🤓 Dec 1 Selective defoliation and first stage of lolipopping on both girls. Decided to go a bit heavier as tomorrow heading for trip and wont see my girls until Tuesday! They will be all alone without any supervision so hopefully they will behave and I will be nicely surprised of their development on my return. Watered with 2tr mixture and sprayed with water and fish mix solution right after defoliation. Planning to feed them tomorrow as much possible 6-7ltr before heading off to our voyage to Amsterdam 😎 do anyone know ls if any of coffeeshops have Fastbuds strains available? Would love to try 🍌💜👊🤤😋 Dec 2 Girls watered as above and both PH 6.4 on runoffs. Dec 3 Girls are unsupervised until December 5th. Thank you all for such amazing support on this journey 😊 love you all!!, 💚💚💚 Stay tuned for upcoming week update right after my return. Peace and love brothers and sisters ✌️💚

These are from Jamesloudgenetics first time i ever try them , 54 out of 55 seeds popped with 51 out of them looking healthy , fingers crossed for a good season .

Budding up nicely. Fully bounced back. Bubble kush pistols are around 90% brown and the Hulkberry around 70%.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la quinta semana de floración de estas Pink Sunset feminizadas de silentseeds. Vamos al lío ,se trasplantaron en macetas de 7 litros definitivamente. El ph se controla en 6.0 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/20 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de floración puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 80% de potencia. De momento van creciendo a buen ritmo y tienen un buen color. La flor está engordando y van formándose, también empieza a producir tricomas. Agradecer Agrobeta por el envío de un kit para la temporada, son unos jefes. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Beginning of week 8! Things are going well in the tent, new life is thriving and ladies are coming along nicely! Here's the true color of this baby

Poisoned against insects

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).