Both plants continue to fill in. Now I'm waiting for the perfect time to begin my flush. 🌱🔥🤘🇺🇸

6/29/2024 - Flower Week 12 Day 1- Water Change Day!!!! Should be the last week.. Can't wait... Will check the Trichomes tomorrow and see where we are at. I added 36 gallons and the accompanying Nutes I added 36 Gallons of Water I added the following Nutes: CalMag= 1.25Mil/Gal= 45Mil FloraMicro = 2.3Mil/Gal= 83Mil FloraGro= 1.3Mil/Gal= 47Mil FLoraBloom= 4.0Mil/Gal= 144Mil Liquid KoolBLoom= 2.5mil/Gal = 90Mil TPS SIgnal= 2mil/Gal = 72mil ORCA = .5Mil/Gal= 18Mil EPSOM- 1 pinch 6/30/2024 - Flower Week 12 Day 2- Nothing to do but take some pics.... One more day take some pics of the Trichomes.. 7/1/2024 - Flower Week 12 Day 3- Still Nothing to do but take some pics and check the Trichomes.. she is almost there.. 7/2/2024 - Flower Week 12 Day 4- Still Nothing to do but take some pics, the buds are so heavy now the stems are falling down all over the place. 7/3/2024 - Flower Week 12 Day 5- Took some extensive Trichome pics today, I really had to see if she will be ready for cut on Saturday and I think she will be. Get brown tips for the most part throughout the bud a few spots more milky than i typically like but I think overall she is ready this weekend.. That will leave me 9 days to dry and weigh and get submitted for final pics.. Lots to do in the next 12 days. 7/4/2024 - Flower Week 12 Day 6- Happy 4th of July.. :-) Did nothing but take some pics today... :-) 1 more day and TIMBER!!! 7/5/2024- Harvest Day, harvested on Week 12 Day 7..... from the big plant... 2.2lbs wet into the cannatrol for dry 5.6 lbs into the tent to hang dry.. Since this is a competition going to wait to post the close out for weights and all that until after judging, See you all in a few weeks with the close out report..

Awesome Strain, but low yield. Will try another time but then i will have a look to change something on the grow to get more yield.

WEEK 5 (03/28/2021 - 04/03/2021) Day 38: 03/28/2021 Plants had their first feeding today. It’s been about 3 or 4 weeks giving them tap water only. With my ppm dropping in the soil, I thought now would be a good time. Leaving out the Cal-Mag this feeding. Nutrient mix: 651ppm, 6.0 pH, 71℉ FF Big Bloom: 5ml/gallon (⅓ strength) = 15ml/3 gallons FF Grow Big: 5ml/gallon (⅓ strength) = 15ml/3 gallons ppm/ppm = runoff/soil JB#1 - 960ppm/309ppm, pH 6.9 JB#2 - 1290ppm/639ppm, pH 6.8 AP#1 - 1400ppm/749ppm, pH 6.8 AP#2 - 1190ppm/539ppm, pH 6.8 GC#1 - 1190ppm/539ppm, pH 7.0 GC#2 - 1350ppm/699ppm, pH 6.8 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 41: 03/31/2021 Plants watered around 5:30-6:00 p.m. ppm/ppm = runoff/soil JB#1 - 955ppm/653ppm, pH 6.8 JB#2 - 1070ppm/768ppm, pH 7.0 AP#1 - 1470ppm/1168ppm, pH 6.8 AP#2 - 1390ppm/1088ppm, pH 6.8 GC#1 - 1110ppm/808ppm, pH 7.0 GC#2 - 1160ppm/858ppm, pH 6.9 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 44: 04/03/2021 Plants watered between 5:30-6:30 p.m. Botanicare Hydroguard was used at half-strength to supplement the roots and as a preventative against rot. Tap water: 247ppm, pH 9.4, 70℉ Botanicare Hydroguard: 1ml/gallon = 3ml/3 gallons pH Down: 11.5ml Mixture: pH 5.6, 285ppm (+43ppm from pH solution) ppm/ppm = runoff/soil JB#1 - 858ppm/573ppm, pH 6.8 JB#2 - 857ppm/572ppm, pH 6.8 AP#1 - 984ppm/699ppm, pH 6.8 AP#2 - 1030ppm/745ppm, pH 6.9 GC#1 - 880ppm/595ppm, pH 7.0 GC#2 - 932ppm/647ppm, pH 6.9 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This week has been much more pleasant than the weeks prior. I believe my plants are finally getting acclimated to the medium and recovering from transplant shock. New growth is looking much healthier. Just as a preventative measure, I picked up some Botanicare Hydroguard to use in an attempt to supplement the roots and bring the pH of the soil down to where I want it. Personally, the pH remains just a tad too high for my liking this week. I would like it more in the range of 5.7-6.5 but I'll give it a week or so to see the reaction to the Hydroguard. I've continued with more LST on all but the Glookies #2. On this plant I simply did a topping. It was a risk, considering the plants isn't vibrantly healthy, but I need to maintain it's height. I also did a second topping to the American Pie #1. As can be observed from the photos, not all of the plants were shaped the same way. I got creative with the fabric pots and I decided to LST a few plants a little bit differently just to see which technique/style I liked the most. So far, I am digging the way the Jelly Bananen #1/#2 and American Pie #2 are shaping up. They are going to have a beautiful, wide canopy when they head into flower. I'm considering transplanting into 5 gallon fabric pots within the next week or two so I can flip them to flower two weeks later. My intuition is telling me this has been a pretty lengthy vegetative stage, thus far. I'm expecting all of my plants to double in size during the flowering stage, which should be anywhere between 65-70 days long. I made sure to select strains with similar flowering times (60-70 days). Thanks for stopping by this week. Please feel free to leave a comment or any tips/advice! Until next week! 🙏

I got the clones with light burn. I gave them no nutrients on the first week. Only root accelerator and tap water. I notice slow grow but they looked like they were healthy. I got an air conditioner and a humidifier to help cool down and increase humidity to proper levels. The plants went through a lot of stress with the heat on first week.

What ye think when those buds gettin chopped smell delicious

well i never thought this plant would take so long to mature but here it is, finally at a spot that I can flip it into flower. next need to clean her all up.

relaxing and enjoying the show almost at max watts SPIDER FARMER SF2000 is now maxed out at 207w , 16"-18" from the plants and I will need to keep up with pruning to allow more air flow and more light to penetrate deeper into the plant. 2, 6" oscillating fans on 100%, may be on low or just one stationary but at this point in the grow air flow is a MUST, specially for the thick, dense vegetation of the OG Kush. trying my hardest to stick with the 4" ventalation til the end of the grow. Right now I have to replace the exhaust ducting due to tiny pin holes leaking more than a bit of light.

Finale

Defoliated a little more. Had a heat stress issue during the week, should be all better now. Nice to see the branches starting to tip in the last few weeks.

The temperatures, humidity, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil spread evenly across the top of the soil. Day 1 we had a high temperature of 85°F with sunny skies. I watered 3-5 gallons from the hose. Day 2 we had high temperature of 87°F with partly cloudy to cloudy skies. I watered 3-4 gallons from the hose. I added 100 ml of blood meal spread evenly across the top of the soil. Day 3 We had a high temperature of 85°F. It rained the previous night and intermittently raining and thunderstorms today. I did get these trained a little this morning. It's not the prettiest but I took some foliage off and opened them up by tying the branches to stakes arranged on the outside of the pots. I added 50ml plant tone and 50ml feather meal in top of the soil. The rain is watering today. Day 4 we had a high temperature of 73°F and all day rain. The rain was what remained of hurricane Beryl. There was a lot of wind up to 20 miles per hour. These girls handled it and loved the rain. Day 5 we had clear sunny skies and a high temperature of 85°F. I fed 150 ml feather meal and 45 ml Coop Poop. I watered 3-5 gallons from the water hose. Day 6 we had a high temperature of 86°F and partly cloudy skies. Plants #1 and #3 developed powdery mildew on their lower leaves. The #2 plant is showing immunity. I'm going to treat for the next 5 days with Arber organic biofungicide. I ran the fertilizer a little hot the girls are clawing and super dark green this evening. Day 7 we had a high temperature of 85 with partly cloudy skies. This week was a success. The girls added height and began flower. The powdery mildew that developed on #3 and #1 is minimal and only on the lower leaves. I'll remove these and try to get them a little more air flow. The girls have been so hungry now that they've gotten some size. The soil I used was recycled organic and had a lot of built up phosphorus from on my previous runs, which meant I couldn't add anything with phos as it would push them to lockout. It's finally playing out and I'm barely keeping these girls fed with enough nitrogen. The nitrogen I added actually had the leaves clawing about 6 hours after I added it. It wasn't bad and you can see on day 7, the girls were already back to business as usual. I finished topping these pots off with soil. The Sun plays a big part in my plants growth. There is very limited room with lots of morning and evening shade. That's why some of these were growing more on one side than the other. It's now changed direction and I've moved the plants to their permanent spot in the garden.

Waiting for them to finish. 1-2 weeks left for most of them.

Plants doing all well, few more weeks to go

Opened the door today and what a pleasant aroma I was treated too. I'm not getting a charcoal filter, haha. The streach really slowed down, looks like it is over. Lots of bud sites and they are starting to build nicely. Can't wait to harvest the others and get the ASD totally under the lights and spread them out a bit. Getting bold and decided to increased the nutrients, big mistake that was. Got leaf burn on the tips, looks like just water for awhile. Thinking four weeks of flower completed and another six to go. I feel I am in for a treat. Thanks for looking, Cheers

Week 2 bloom: The buds have started to arrive! And they are everywhere. This girl is huge and looking great. She seems to have liked the feeding I gave her last week. I’ve continued to train her, but at the point that the buds have started, I don’t want to be touching it very much. Maybe it’s OK because the trichomes haven’t started? I just want to control her… I’m concerned about height. Currently she’s half the height of the tent and is only 1 week into bloom.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

12/12/2022: Getting close to the end. The Strawberry Gushers has turned completely purple. She may have a week or so to go. Just waiting for a bit more amber tricomes before I chop her. The Orange Bubblegum and Newberry are fading more every day, but they still have a couple more weeks. Just when I thought I got the fungas gnats under control more must have hatched. They are mainly concentrated in the Strawberry Gushers pot, so I threw in a new sticky trap and did a little watering with some mosquito bit tea. About 1/3 liter each. Just enough to get the first inch or two of soil wet. One lesson learned from this grow is start treating for pest issues when you first see them, instead of waiting for them to get bad like I did. Also, plan to implement or stricter IPM strategy next round. 12/15/2022: The Strawberry Gushers is just about done. Tricomes are about 20% amber, so she will be getting the chop this weekend. The Orange Bubblegum and Newberry still need more time, so I gave them a good watering today. They each got 1.5 liters of water at 6.6 ph, with ThermX-70, coconut powder, FishShit, and about 1 liter of mosquito bit tea for the gnats. 12/18/2022: only watered the Orange Bubblegum and Newberry today. They are both fading hard, but i think I'll give them another week or two before chopping. Gave each about 1.5 liters mixed with ThermX-70, FishShit, and mosquito bits. Still can't get these fungas gnats 100% under control, but keeping it at a manageable population at least. The Strawberry Gushers is getting chopped tomorrow, so she didn't get any water. Was originally planning to chop it today, but still need to get my drying space dialed in. Trying to get as close to 60° with 60% RH. Avg. VPD:1.6 PPFD: 600 DLI: 39

Diese Woche war für die Pflanzen eine große Belastung, da sie in den Keller umgezogen sind. In der Wohnung wurde es einfach zu warm. Die Box hat einen Zuluftschlauch bekommen, sodass immer Frischluft von außen kommt. Die Abluft wird auch nach außen abgeführt. Der Keller wird zusätzlich mit einem Amazon Badezimmerlüfter belüftet. Die Luftfeuchtigkeit konnte somit im Durchschnitt auf 60 Prozent gesenkt werden. Bei Regen hatte ich auch schon Höchstwerte von 82 Prozent in der Box. Dazu habe ich einen zusätzlichen Handylüfter in der Box installiert, der 40 Watt hat und für gute Belüftung sorgt. Zusätzlich baue ich mir nächste Woche ein Belüftungssystem mit KG-Rohren. Ich nehme zwei Stück und installiere sie an der Zuluft der Box. Dann werden sie am Rand der Box platziert und Löcher rein gebohrt, um die Pflanzen von unten zu belüften. Die Rohre kommen auf die ganze Fläche von 1,5 Metern. Was den Dünger betrifft, kann ich nur sagen, ich bin sehr zufrieden. Die Buds werden langsam echt fett. Die Pflanzen weisen keine Mängel auf, bis auf Calzium-Magnesium, das zusätzlich über das Gießwasser eingebracht wird. Apropos Gießwasser: Ich habe mir Tropfer und ein 100-l-Autotop-Flexi-Tank bestellt. Dazu ausführlicher Bericht nächste Woche, so wie zu der ab und zu Luft. Die Lampen laufen mittlerweile auf 100 Prozent. Die Titan sind mittlerweile im Schnitt 75 cm groß, so wie die Cosmos. Diese Pflanze ist sehr durstig und bekommt mehr Wasser als die anderen und ist im Umfang deutlich größer als die Titan und Epsilon. Die Epsilon sind ca. 55 cm im Durchschnitt, haben aber die dicksten Buds. Wichtigste Punkte: - Pflanzen in den Keller umgezogen wegen zu hoher Temperaturen in der Wohnung - Belüftungssystem installiert (Zuluft, Abluft, Badlüfter, zusätzlicher Lüfter in der Box) - Luftfeuchtigkeit im Durchschnitt auf 60% gesenkt - Neues Belüftungssystem mit KG-Rohren geplant - Dünger zufriedenstellend, Buds werden größer - Calzium-Magnesium-Mangel, wird über Gießwasser ausgeglichen - Neue Bewässerung (Tropfer, Flexi-Tank) bestellt - Lampen auf 100% - Titan und Cosmos ca. 75 cm, Cosmos durstiger - Epsilon ca. 55 cm, dickste Buds !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!es fehlen noch Bilder Nachtrag kommt !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ein danke geht raus an meine Freundin sie Übernimmt Bilder und Videos.

2025-09-26 well weather changed hardly 6 days continously heavy rain and cold winds. and this year she seems to take longer - hmmpf but sespite all this, shes sfe standing in 2 SCROG- nets and has a roof so no risk of mold only watching the branches wich are not covered by the roof