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@Dairon
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Buenas, como podéis ver han pegado un buen tirón, después de hacer las fotos tuve que volver a realizar poda de bajos, sacando unas ramas bastante grandes, las cuales voy a clonar y etiquetar por si sale algo que merezca conservarse. ya están mostrando preflores, aunque lleven 4 semanas a 12 /12 es como si fuese la 1ª en ejemplares de marihuana indica, sigo con una EC de 1.2 hasta que empieze a ver flores, donde iré subiendo poco a poco con cuidado pues es la primera vez que planto sativas y no quiero sobre abonarlas, hago un riego con abono y otro con agua de ósmosis corrigiendo hasta alcanzar una EC de 0.4, mido el agua que drena de las macetas tanto el PH como la EC para controlar que no alla carencias o excesos de nutrientes. Realizaré una limpieza del armario y pulverizare las plantas con Leaf Coat para prevenir, van como un tiro a ver que tal siguen, Buenos Humos!!!😃
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Hello ! Gracias a mis amigos de sweet seeds, por sus semillas Esta es una nueva cepa en mis diarios espero que sean muy prospero el crecimiento de esta semilla. Fue germinada en exterior 3 días ( cosecha 12/2020) y posteriormente una semana puesta al sol natural y a hora en indoor 😃 . Feliz + feliz CHARLY GROWER 👨‍🌾💚
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@Max1973
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omg, another week has passed...... :) Day 100 - and then there was 11 Buds ....... lol Switched over to normal water on both ... smaller has been on water 1+ weeks ..... Endoscope arrives this week i hope..... harvested afew buds to fit it all in the tent and setup lights properly... trimmed em, wired em abit to support the weight of the buds.... I'll see how the endoscope results show, as to harvest...... i think growth slowed abit over last week or 2, because of poor light setup, not enough room in tent, and other grow 6400k led.... got a new tent on the way... 😎 Day 101 - Pics - edoscope, usb arrived... it's very good, but hard to stabalize / focus, i'll have to work out how to use it better...... the pics i posted were of a younger bud from the bottom..... i'm happy with the cloudy with amber, and harvesting.... 😎 Day 103 - vid of all trimmed and drying out upside down in tent. Day 105 - pics vids of drying and into curing.... i'll list all the test buds and buds i trimmed in the final harvest report.....😎
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@DankBudz
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Well tying down is no longer an option, now the fight is to get them to stand up!! #shittyproblems No let up on white hairs yet!! It makes me sad and happy at the same time lol
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Last week of flush Decided to harvest on 🌹29/09 🌹 Plant showing signs of deficiency after flush of first week. 20/09 - Flushed 21/09 - Flushed 50l run off 22/09 - Flushed 10L run off 23/09 - Flushed 7L - No water until 26/09 26/09 Watered 1L More leaf color changes Strong smell 💪
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@Viridios
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Hi all.. Lady's are very happy..still stretching a bit..looks like the push is almost over. Very faint sweet smell starting to come form them. Im going to do another light defoliation soon. Humidity is a bit high and i want to avoid WPM. Sorry for all the wierd couler photos , i try take picks as the lights come on.. I will upload some more picks on friday. Other then that..Perfect! 😁 420 for life.
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Week 10... I'd grow these again. Dutch Blue Automatic Spliff Seeds. Smells like sweet berry.
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@DIRTYKEG
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Wow I love it so crazy and fun at this stage the defoliation was allot more work then I thought jeez..... but there looking beautiful but hope you like now I got to go defoliat the last 2...
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I did a final round of stripping small branches and big fan leaves the other day, ending week 3 of flower. I've started ramping up koolbloom powder and Epsom salt. I've dialed back my fertigation events to 2 per day, I'm still getting runoff, but the plants don't seem to mind this change so far. These plants seem fast to flip, and I'm hoping to see some bud development kick off this week. The strain seems to be about a week ahead of strains I've grown in the past. There aren't any super terpy smells yet, but it's starting to smell like something. I'll be posting a midweek update in 3 days. 6/26 The plants are starting to put out some unique terpenes, Ethos' description is very accurate, fruit stripe gum and gasoline. It isn't super strong yet, but I can smell it when I manipulate some leafs. I'm done defoliating, and will let them go until harvest. Happy growing everyone!
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@3lementa1
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Because of how early I topped her, the base was very dense with foliage so I did some defoliation. You can see the four main branches (2 of which were topped) and the central FIM with its supercropping scars in the 4th pic. Still running a 1000w MH bulb at 50%. Looking at getting a SMLED/COB LED combo light to replace my cool tube and associated fans and ducting. Water level was down to 50%. I'll have to start topping up. July 04 I rearranged my setup a bit while switching the MH bulb for the HPS. I think next run I'm going to grow 2 autoflowers and stagger them and try to run a perpetual harvest. I'm going to try to stick with the HID lights if I can manage the heat effectively. It was working well when I had the 6" cooltube and the 4" carbon filter exhausting out the window, but now that the smell is more intense, I don't want any air going out except through the carbon filter. I've thought about running filter-->fan-->cooltube-->outside but they're different sizes so it would lose efficiency. I've also thought about running clean air from outside the tent through the cooltube and then outside as it was intended, but I just don't think that's going to work with the space. July 05 I noticed shiny spots on the leaves which seems to indicate I have thrips. I can't see any actual larvae even with my glasses on, but the sucked out spots are fairly distinctive and I can see small black particles that must be excrement. Temperature seems pretty good in there and humidity is ok at about 45%. I have some peppermint Dr Bronner's castile soap so I made a foliar spray of insecticidal soap by just pouring a few drops into a big spray bottle. Just worried about when to spray so I don't burn the plant. Just checked the reservoir and temp is 26c, PPM 860, Ph 6.5. I'm going to add plain water and try to bring the Ph back down to 5.5. It's possible that what I'm seeing is due to the Ph being too high. I'm going to start checking the Ph at least every couple days. It's annoying to unclip all the training wires every time I open the reservoir. It's also not very convenient to fill it. It's at an awkward height. I like the 5 gallon bucket because it was easy to set up and understand but I might be better off with a different type of reservoir. 3:45pm I just sprayed the underside of one section of leaves, I'll see how that section does under the lights. My concern is that if I spray under the lights, it will burn, but if I spray at night, it could cause mold. Hopefully I can get away with spraying all the leaves once or twice a week and it will go away. July 06 She looks ok but I'm thinking it might be a Ph issue. Ph was 6.2 so I decided to just pitch the water and start again. I changed my method so I'm mixing the nutrients in the actual bucket the plant lives in and testing it there, instead of mixing in another bucket and pouring it into the DWC. Ph is now 5.7 and PPM 700. July 08 just noticed that RH is 70% when the lights come on. I feel like I'm going to need a solution for overnight humidity. Maybe dry rid bags. Rh is 60% after a couple hours. Leaf, solution, and substrate temp down to 24 which is nice. Ph is back up to 6.3 again! I pH downed some tap water to 4 and added that to the reservoir. July 09 Pistils just started coming out :) The Ph is still back up to 6.3 again but PPM is 750. I'm going to change the res again and lower the nutrient content a bit.
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https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA MY SAYING NOW IS: THE ONLY WAY TO GROW IS WITH THE HYDRO🤘 AND THEY WILL REACH FOR THE STARS WITH MARS🤘🤣. So it's been almost a week under the new MARS HYDRO FC4800 and the girls are loving it.. leaves were straight up like they were at a rock concert just blowing in the wind waving their arms like they are in the moshpit🤣🤣 looked so sweet👍. after a day they have stretched so much I had to raise the light already to keep it at 14 inches above the canopy. Plants grow so uniform under these lights, canopy is always nice and even👍. it has a whiter light than the mars tsw2000. Being side by side in my 8x8 tent, I can really see the difference in the color of light. The FC4800 is more of a white light like natural light. I think it might be the blue uv Diodes they added to the fc series lights. I'm amazed at how good this light is already. Barely any heat comes off it. I can rest my hand on it when the dimmer is at 100% and it's just warm. I have it daisy chained to my TSW2000 and it works awesome👍 and I dont have to reach for the other dimmer to do both. One dimmer controls both lights. When I add more lights I will daisy chain them too and control 4 lights from 1 dimmer👍. I still love my tsw2000. It's been going almost non stop since I got it and no issues at all. I take a picture of the Diodes to see if any have burnt out or anything, everything is fine.  same thing with the heat it gives off is just like the FC4800. I can rest my hand on it without burning me👍. Having both lights on 100% because I in flower now, only raises my temperature about 3°celcius. Make sure you got some calmag and if you use reverse osmosis water (bottled water) or filtered water you will want extra calmag because it's filtered out of it👍. These lights are perfect for every stage of growth for germination to flower. Just use the dimmers to reduce the intensity of the lights for whatever stage you are in. Plus they are easy to raise and lower them with the ratchet straps. MARS HYDRO'S recommended height for different stages is pretty accurate but different strains like different Temps and light sensitivity so that's something to look into, a more Mediterranean strain can take more heat and intense lighting. and you can just follow their recommendations for the height for each stage. I slowly turn it up in the later veg cycle until I'm at 75% about a week before I switch to 12/12 and after about 4 or 5 days into flower I'm at 100% with no heat or light stress👍. Mars hydro is awesome for their pricing for what you get👍. They should cost alot more than other brands but shhhhh don't tell them🤣🤣🤣🤣. Just kidding. they want to stay competitive with every brand but there stuff is always cheaper than SF and vipar etc. They know once you use mars hydro products you won't switch to another brand. Why pay more money for something that isn't as good. I've seen lights cheaper than mars but they are cheaper for a reason. They are built cheaper. My TSW2000 is fairly heavy too. But when it comes to getting lights you want some weight to it so you know it's built strong and sturdy and will last a long time.. I called customer service a few times and they will help you out with any questions you may have about the products and they are very well educated in their products👍 very helpful and very friendly. They are awesome 🤜🤛. I can't say enough about this grow tent too. The thing is a beast. I've owned a gorilla grow tent before and MARS HYDRO TENTS are better. Don't waste the money on a gorilla tent, get a mars and save a couple hundred bucks for your fertilizers and soils👍🤜🤛I could use the canvas tent to make a trampoline and i doubt it would break its that thick👍 I've had some cheaper tents made of 600d canvas and they aren't that bad. But when you get a tent made from 1680D canvas material it's insane how strong and heavy it is. Before I put the tent together when I lifted the canvas to start wrapping the frame I said to myself.. LORD TUNDERIN JESUS this has some nice weight to it. It was the easiest tent to put together that I've ever had. I went inside with the lights off and got someone to turn it on after a minute or two to look for light leaks and there was none👍. It even blocks out some noise, so if your fans or filters are loud, once it is zipped up it gets quieter. this tent is awesome with So many ports and vents for whatever you need to hook up to it. It has frame bars down the middle and one vertical pole in the middle to keep it sturdy but the poles are made nice and so thick that they probably didn't even need a vertical bar in the middle. It has 2 separate 4x8 floor trays that divide it into 2 4x8 tents. All you need is a mylar divider to easily divide it in half. I love the stickers it comes with. It's nothing big to some people but I know there is lots of people that like them because you see them everywhere in people's tents and in pictures. I love them they are super cool stickers👍. It really locks in the light and temperature and humidity good. Lots of room for all the equipment I have to go in it and will get to put in it. Be good to bring camping too🤣🤣🤣🤜🤛. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to read this and please leave a comment 🙏🤜🤛 if you have any questions about any of the products I use please feel free to ask me and I can help you out👍🤜🤛 I also know about all their other products too, so any questions about stuff I'm not using I can still help you guys out🤘 and ask about pricing if you're interested in anything and I'll see what kind of deals I can hook you up with. But don't just buy stuff.. let me know so I can talk to my friends at mars hydro and probably get you a better deal👍🤜🤛 https://www.mars-hydro.com Promo code: Rocknroll @marshydropenny Here's some more information about these products I'm using: The goal of MarsHydro is simply to produce the best value grow tents in the  growing field and they didn't disappoint me at all. I'm beyond satisfied with everything. And with the most up to date hydroponic equipment at the lowest prices possible. Their grow tents have combined all their engineers and customers' advice to produce these unbelievable tents.. they really listen to us and change things to our liking so if you own anything from mars just contact them and let them know.. they take our advice and considerations VERY SERIOUSLY so don't hesitate to let them know 💪🤜🤛 The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air. The tent includes 2 removable waterproof floor trays to hold soil and water. The removable tray can be taken out to wash easily. They guarantee the grow tents are easy to install even if you've never done something like this before. Clear Instructions and no tools needed! They also offer 30-day unconditional refunds for quality problems. Just contact their friendly 24 hours customer service 👍 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Promo code: rocknroll @marshydropenny GET THE MAX FROM MARS👍: Welcome one of  the newest members of the Mars Hydro family🤜🤛🤘. The Mars Hydro FC 4800 480W LED Grow Light can accommodate up to a 4' x 4' area for flowering. It has OVER 2000 LED chips consisting of the best selling Samsung LM301B diodes which has a Luminous Efficacy of: 220 lm/W 0.2 W, 3 V mid power, Osram 660nm Diodes, Infrared light and UV LIGHT👍. It boasts the incredible efficiency of 2.8 µmol/J, maximum 2.5gram yield per watt with 30% higher Average PPFD. This High-intensity spectrum is beneficial for plants at all stages - from veg to bloom, and creates Big dense Buds👍. achieve 50% higher yields & quality compared with the old lights! Only consumes 480W for 4x4ft personal grows, and 3x3ft for commerical grow. It comes with a dimmer and daisy chain function with a  maximum of up to 15 lights, the master light controls the rest👍. Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! https://www.mars-hydro.com         PROMO CODE: rocknroll @marshydropenny Happy growing to all my friends 🤜🤛
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Esta semana le he hecho trasplante a maceta de 1L y de resto todo igual
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Hello growmies! Welcome to week four of An Epsilon Adventure! The girls are already transitioning into flower, I will get some photos of that later in the week. Massive thanks to both Shogun and Royal Queen Seeds for sponsoring this grow. Daily Updates: ### Week 4 Day 1 11:00 16/7 Removed some lower growth. ### Week 4 Day 2 23:00 17/7 Tallest plants were showing signs of heat stress so I have raised the light about 30cm more. Unfortunately this now means the lower plants aren't getting as much light as they could, so I have put the cycle back to 20h (I may even increase it). ### Week 4 Day 3 14:00 18/7 Photographed. ### Week 4 Day 3 19:00 18/7 Fertigated 2l. Okay these girls are now starting to concern me a little on the basis that they are supposed to grow to "50-70cm". At just over 3 weeks old the shortest of these girls is 53cm, the tallest (plant 3) is now 76cm tall. The worrying thing is they do not at all look like they are slowing down and as they are just pre-flowering now, the flowering stretch hasn't even started. So I need some genuine advice here now: Do I keep the faith and hope that they don't exceed the space I have? Do I top or super crop them now? These ladies are beastly, at the end of the week I am going to take some individual videos and more photos to really try and capture how magnificently well these girls are doing. I think I may be in the process of growing the biggest Epsilon F1's so far? Exciting to find out! ### Week 4 Day 4 21:00 19/7 James has assured me they wont go much more than 85 so I am not going to mess with them. They are due a defoliation at the end of this week though. Measured each plant as follows: Plant 1: 81cm Plant 2: 75cm Plant 3: 80cm Plant 4: 67cm Plant 5: 59cm Plant 6: 58cm Might photograph later or leave until tomorrow. ### Week 4 Day 5 10:00 20/7 Photographed and measured. Plant 1: 85cm Plant 2: 79cm Plant 3: 81cm Plant 4: 71cm Plant 5: 63cm Plant 6: 63cm So they've all grown about 4cm in about 13 hours, except plant 3 - which seems to have slowed down a lot. The top of plant 3 is also the most advanced looking in terms of pistils. I forgot to take close ups of the preflowers I will do that tomorrow. I have had to raise the light again today and it is now much further away than the younger plants than I would like. So I am thinking about adding a 300w LED into my 4x4. I have another 3 inches I can raise the light on the hangers, after that I can removed the adjustable handers and tie it to the top of the tent... that'll gain me another 4 or 5 inches. If I need to go higher my only option would be to set them up without the tent which is not an option right now. Hopefully they all just stop getting taller now and focus on flowering... but my gut tells me there's more growth to come. Watch this space! ### Week 4 Day 6 15:00 21/7 Measured. Average 10cm growth 29 hours. 😳😳😲 Plant 1: 96cm Plant 2: 89cm Plant 3: 88cm Plant 4: 81cm Plant 5: 73cm Plant 6: 72cm ### Week 4 Day 6 23:00 21/7 Defoliated. Only photographed plants 1 and 2 individually as I was short on time. Some lovely pics though! ### Week 4 Day 7 15:00 22/7 Fertigated. 2l Will photograph and measure later when they've had 24h since training. ### Week 4 Day 7 23:00 22/7 Photographed and measured: Plant 1: 102cm Plant 2: 93cm Plant 3: 89cm Plant 4: 85cm Plant 5: 76cm Plant 6: 75cm Well here we are at the end of week 4 and I am quite shocked by the growth of these girls. This strain averages 50-70cm in height. We have six plants here and every one of them is taller than the average... but would you just look at plant 1? She is a giant! 102cm!! Where will she stop? Next week will see the full transition to flower and we will start to see the bud sites developing. I have no idea at this point what the heights will look like at the end of next week. This is sort of new territory really, they weren't meant to get this big! --- Thanks for reading growmies! 👊 ========== Tent: 120cm x 120cm x 180cm Light: 600w HID Elite Dual Spectrum HPS + Angel Wing Reflector Air: 5" duct fan system with carbon filter ~300 m3/hour + RAM 9" floor fan + 4" intake fan Pots: Air Pruner Fabric Pots 30l - UGro XL Coco + horticultural grade perlite (~20%) Seeds supplied by Royal Queen Seeds https://www.royalqueenseeds.com Nutrients supplied by Shogun Fertilisers https://www.shogunfertilisers.com/en ==========
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@DreamIT
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Strong genetics, resistant, fast enough, easy to grow and never pretentious. I will try further training techniques on this strain, while waiting to make more room in the box to plant the Red hot cookie as well. If you like sweet flavors and fragrant plants this is definitely for you! Soon new updates for a cycle of only plants in "monstercropping", to continue my eternal red garden 😁🦄 thanks for following me up to here and leave a comment and suggestions 🦄👍🤘
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Week 9 of flowering! Franky is faaaading....faaading....faaading.(Shoutouts to Toro y Moi) Uhm....I think we at the end now. I've only been giving water and picking yellow dead leafs. Most strains look really really ripe, and I don't like overripe stuff. So even if a few might look like they could go longer, Imma end this with the next upload in a few days. Having this grafting project was a blast. Thx everyone for tuning in and watching this grow. If anyone has any questions on grafting just hmu with a comment or pm. Ps: I haven't seen blue runtz in two months but it was there all along too...oh and the permanent marker as well :D. Very fun to watch things uncover now.
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Heyoka. 12x12=144, A dodecahedron is a polyhedron with 12 faces, and in coordination chemistry, it refers to a geometry where ligands surround a central metal atom (in this case, Magnesium) in a specific, 8-coordinate arrangement. Dodecahedrane is a hydrocarbon, meaning it's composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms. The carbon atoms are arranged at the corners of a dodecahedron, a 3D shape with 12 pentagonal faces. The water molecules in the dodecahedron form hydrogen bonds that are individually slightly weaker than in either the dimer or the tetramer. However, because three-quarters of the O -H groups in the dodecahedron form hydrogen bonds, it has a more negative energy per molecule than has either the dimer or the tetramer. Magnesium (Mg2+) is the essential, central metal ion in the chlorophyll molecule, crucial for photosynthesis by enabling light absorption and energy transfer. It is chelated by four nitrogen atoms within the porphyrin (or chlorin) ring structure. Chlorophyll appears green because it reflects light in the green region of the visible spectrum, specifically between 490 and 570 nm. The main resonance electronic frequency of a neutral Magnesium (Mg) atom corresponds to the transition from the ground state to the first excited state. Resonance Line Wavelength of Mg2+: 285.1nm (UVB light). The central atom of the chlorophyll molecule is Magnesium (Mg2+), which is coordinated within a porphyrin ring. The electronic "resonance frequency" of this central atom—meaning the frequency at which its electrons absorb energy—is primarily driven by the electronic transitions (ETR) of the surrounding conjugated chlorin ring structure, rather than a discrete atomic transition of the Magnesium atom itself. The resonant electronic frequencies of the chlorophyll porphyrin (technically, a chlorin) ring are determined by the energy required to promote π-electrons within its conjugated system, primarily appearing in the blue and red regions of the visible spectrum. In standard physics, Chloryphyll b has peak absorption at 460nm (Blue). If we take the peak wavelength 460nm and a UV-B, UVR8 peak absorption wavelength 285nm Tryptophan-285 (W285) Sensing protein. 460/285=1.618 Φ, "natural harmony" and the "structure of light". The cryptochrome photoreceptor (CRY) is a UV-A/blue light receptor that shares this dual sensitivity with several other biological structures and functions, including significant sequence similarity and a common evolutionary ancestor with DNA photolyase enzymes. These are light-activated enzymes that use blue/UV-A light to repair DNA damage caused by UV-B radiation in plants. Dodecahedrane (C20H20) is a hydrocarbon with a cage-like structure where carbon atoms form 12 pentagonal faces (a regular dodecahedron). It is highly symmetric (icosahedral), contains no delocalized electrons (no aromaticity), and has minimal angle strain, but significant torsional strain. Water Dodecahedron (H2O) forms hydrogen-bonded cages. While individual hydrogen bonds in this structure are weaker than in the linear dimer or tetramer, it has a more negative total energy per molecule. This is because three-quarters (75%) of the groups are involved in hydrogen bonding, creating a very stable, closed-shell configuration. a 3D carbon hydrocarbon (C20H20) to stable water clusters in hydrate, while the Magnesium ion acts as the central activator within a conjugated ring in biological systems, with its electronic absorption dominated by the ring, not the atom itself. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΦPSII In horticultural lighting, adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Knowing is half the battle however, engineering or utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. Extend, then multiply. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2), particularly in C4 plants. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΦPSII, represents the proportion of light absorbed by Photosystem II (ΦPSII) that is actually used in photosynthetic electron transport. It is a key indicator of how efficiently a plant is using light for photosynthesis, as opposed to losing it as heat or fluorescence. ΦPSII (effective quantum yield of photosystem II) functions primarily as a "multiplier" (a coefficient of efficiency) rather than an additive factor when estimating the overall photosynthetic electron transport rate (ETR). Multipliers are considered far more beneficial than additions because they generate exponential growth, leverage existing resources to their full potential, and create sustainable, self-multiplying capacity, rather than just incremental, linear increases. Humans, and most other mammals, rely on other mechanisms, such as nucleotide excision repair, to manage and repair UV-induced DNA damage. As such, humans do not have the direct, light-driven repair mechanism that photolyase offers in plants.
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@PapaNugs
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This was a quiet week. The girls were recovering from their topping but were also flipping into flower. They have been getting water every two days and that seems to be an issue so I bought an auto watering drip system to install next week. This girl has the biggest comeback outta all of them. Has continued to do well and has responded very well to the topping. Excited for this one Dimmed to 60% Here are the lights details: Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 150W LED Model: MN150-022 Spectrum mode: V1 Efficacy: 2.8 umol/J Thanks for stopping by! You can find the light on Grow Diaries: https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-150-watts You can find the light on Medic Grow's website: https://medicgrow.com/
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