Day 58: Everything seems to go smooth. I got my new lamp up, and are experimenting with dimmer, hang height, and space between the bars. This is new for me, my old lamps is garbage compared to this! But as I have 2 pre-/flowering girls, and 4 babies I decided to go with little space between the first 4 bars (for the adults) and the last 2 have some more space between (for the babies), and are not going all the way to the edge. The adults is higher, than comes the teens, and finally the babies so they don't get the same light intensity. I am currently running it pretty low, about 35% and will see the next couple of days how the girls will react Day 61: The girls are starting to hang a bit. I do not know what is causing it, or is it just normal? I took the pictures and video about 3 hours after the light turns off, so it might just be that they are sleeping? Other causes could be too little light, as I just switched to my new light, and are running it for the first time. Maybe I do not water them enough? The humidity has also increased, and is around 50-65%, maybe that is the reason? I also started using RO water, so could be something with the nutrients? Do any of you fellow growers have any idea? UPDATE: Big thank you to @Maltaherbman for your answer. I have raised the lamp a bit. I read 900+ ppdf on my phone before, and now I am getting maximum 800. This is properly not a correct reading, but at least I have it to compare with. I waited to see what happened after the light turned on. Ill took 2 new pictures, and the left lady is all ready recovered, the right one almost, so they might just have been sleeping, but ill keep the light as it is for now. Also a big thank you to you @GrowingGrannie - I keep the coco wet at all time. I have been flushing them a couple of times before, so maybe the watering volume this week is a little lower than usual. Also the watering volume is kind of an estimate, but I will take your advise and keep better track of how much I am watering, but I think its about 2-3L every 2-4 days

This grow is going to be testing my coco based auto watering setup. The plants will eventually be going into 2.5 gallon airpots which I cut to be very tall and narrow which I hope will give great performance for this grow style. Nutrient solution will be pumped from a 5 gallon bucket to halo-style drip emitters 6 times a day for 5-10 second intervals. I am going to try to use inline flow control knobs to dial in the watering and allow for slight runoff every fertigation. For lighting I am using my HLG 100 watt lights, one per plant. I am a big fan of these quantum boards, they have given great performance in the past! Thanks for reading! 🌱👍 May 13 day 1: the Blackberry breached after germinating in a rapid rooter for 2 days. I am impressed with how quickly this seed popped! It had no issues with stuck seed casings, which I find is the main downside of germinating in rapid rooters. I am excited about this one! May 16 day 3: Auto watering drip emitters are set up, and I am testing them to dial in the amount of runoff it produces. I also planted the seedlings/rapid rooters into 1 litre grow bags and began feeding nutrients. They are still under the humidity dome for now for the time being and seem to be doing well. Day 4: seedlings doing well, they are staying under the dome untill they grow their next set of leaves, then I will take them out and run a humidifier.

Day 106. Watering with fertilizers. Day 107. Watering with clean water. Day 108. Watering with fertilizers. Day 109. Watering with clean water. Day 110. Watering with fertilizers. Day 111. Watering with clean water. Day 112. Watering with fertilizers.

The Apple Betty babies are doing great 😊 I’m very pleased with the results so far, I just wished I would have known they would have such a large stretch, they D almost doubled in size in 14 days. At day 8 I stopped tucking the branches and allowed them to grow up. In hindsight, I probably should have kept going for another couple of days. They continued to stretch rapidly all the way up to date 12 or so, much more than my other strain that I have going as well. At day 10 I cleaned up some of the small bud sites and leaves that were below the 1st trellis. These sites do not get enough light to make anything good, and take away energy from the main tops as they grow and compete. A quick snip here and there will really help the end result. At day 13 I decided to add a second trellis net to provide support to the tops that came up so fast. They seem to have stopped their main stretch faze, and are looking happy and healthy now. I’ve continued my water, water, feed schedule and have not seen any cause for concern. The girls are taking a little over a gallon of water every 72 hours at this point. Humidity is being controlled automatically with my in-line fan and humidifier. RH is set to 57% and temps hover between 77-80 degrees with lights on, and about 70-72 with light off thanks to my furnace being back on for the cooler temps. The 2x4 5 gallon girl is doing great as well. 😊During the stretch, she flourished just as the girls in my big tent did as well. She is going to have some great bud, the branch structure is nicely developed with tight node spacing and large tops. I’ve been plucking off all the lower growth, and tucking leaves as they block bud sites. I will be doing a defoliation next week. Happy Gardening 🇨🇦👊❤️

Day 43: I pulled the LED to the most possible height and she keeps stretching, thus I had to bend the main branch with LST clips to keep some distance to the LED to avoid light stress. Day 44: Today was cleaning day of the reservoir and a new set of nutrients are applied. I'm quite curious how they support her. I also removed some foliage. Day 45: I noticed some tip burn at the leafs of the main bud. So I checked the PH in the reservoir and noticed, that it is off and adjusted it. I hope this supports her. Also, it might be a bit of light stress, as she is pretty close to the light (~ 25 cm). Nothing else to do today. Day 46: I refilled the reservoir today. As I noticed, that the PH was off the last time, I lower now the PH from 6.4 to 5.6. This should also support her to consume the nutrients, as I use 50% coco. Day 47: Nothing to do, today. Day 48: I removed some fan leafs. Day 49: Last day of the week. She is really thirsty now. I decided to lower the humidity to 65% to get a VPD of around 1 kPa. Let's see, how this will work out in the next week. -------------------------------------------------------------- You also like to get some seeds from Fast Buds? You like a 15% discount? Just use the following code on your next order: CSYIJC Happy growing -------------------------------------------------------------- 🙏 Thanks for visiting and follow for daily updates 🌱

Anche questa stokers seeds Panty punch auto.non vedo l'ora di provarla ha in profumo squisito, deliziosa....la prenderei a morsi🤤😂😂😂😂😜💪

Awesome 🙌🏾

Hey everyone An average week. Jack 2 still doing her best and she is whitout a doubt the best girl of this round. All buds are swelling up and are looking very frosty. she is in her final period now. Gave one last feeding with nutrients and from now on its flushing time. By the end of the week (maybe 10 days) I will chop and harvest her. The night/early morning humidity is pretty high too. Around 90%... Wich brings me too NL 1 😪 NL 1 is another story Remember I said last week I found some budrot... Well it has spread to some lower buds too so I decided to end this grow. There will be something left to save but not much. It's not for me anymore too. Gonna give her away. I'm not a fan of plants that have rot in anyway haha. I still can't blame the plant herself. She had rough conditions and a stupid accident caused by me. Still a bit sad because she looked fantastic in the beginning. Oh well Will still do the harvest report next week but not sure if she will be still here then. All focus on Jack 2 now 🙂 Another grow to learn from Happy growing friends, see u next week 😉🙏

Week 10 day 65, the main cola Is getting fatter Day 67, Sorry the video Is really confusing but i have literally no space to move Day 70, end of week 10 starting tommorow gonna give her 18/6 so She can grow some nice and big buds 💚

Girls are really full on flowering!!! They all seem super happy! Been trying to get on a better flushing regiment as it seems to really help around harvest with salt build up using general hydroponics nutrients. I can already see some buildup around the fabric pots. Gonna do a basic pesticide foliar spray with azomax. I don’t see any pests but I’d like to keep it that way esp since I’m flowering now. But everything is going as planned and keeping a watchful eye on them. Oh and also did a little defoliation again...the Maui seems to just keep bushing out while the dosi just wants to stretch!! Super impressed with the genetics and resilience of these 2 strains

Here we are a week and a few days later. One of the Forum Stompers didn't come up. It was probably my fault, I could have given them some more time in the DVD case before putting them in the cubes but I was excited! I germed another one and that one has popped up just fine. Growth up top is pretty slow, and some of the plants seem a little droopy. Their roots just started to grow out of the net pots so maybe that has something to do with it? Or maybe because they are right at the end of the light cycle for the day? I've got roots that I can see on 3/4. For at least one of the plants the rhizo-core net pots seem to be doing what it's supposed to. I've got a nice set of roots crawling their way towards the bucket right down the side of the inner cone. Going to switch the rez out Sunday and start them on some really low strength nutes. I got the red frog air diffusers in the mail and went and bought a new air pump, these things are awesome. They make a ton of tiny bubbles to the point where it's almost a foam on top of the water. I'm hoping the roots love all the extra oxygen.

12/04 - Well, Pinky had a bucket change today and I'm a little concerned because, quite frankly, my aging brain completely forgot she's probably allergic to the Micro ... so I may have to do another bucket change tomorrow and get rid of it... I'll let her rest overnight and see how she's doing in the morning ... She's definitely a light "eater" - her EC should have been at 0.8 last week and this week it should be getting to 1.0-1.2 - but she just doesn't react well to the higher EC levels... She has gained SO MUCH HEIGHT this past week! It's truly astounding... Maybe the lights weren't close enough, maybe she's just a helluva gal but seriously - 8-1/2" in a week?! She's starting to scare me! LOL! 12/06 - LOOK AT HER LEAVES!!! They've started to uncurl!!!! In talking to another grower about her, I'm realizing that what she had been desperate for was more PK so the addition of the KoolBloom liquid AND the fact the pH kept going up (apparently a sign she's gobbling up the PK) says THIS is what she was hungry for... in fact, I need to give her more today as the pH is still floating upward and is too high... But PINKY!!! Maybe I've figured out what you've been wanting?! (Well, to give proper credit, @Roberts helped me to see what you were saying!) ... cross your fingers, she's on her way... And she's starting to show her colors in the buds now, too... I'm excited! 12/07 - Had to move this lady... she's gained 5" in the last 3 days and I was running out of options.... Next time, if there IS a next time, I'll probably end up scrogging her... But now she's a roommate to my #2Bruce in the closet with a 7' ceiling and she'd better not run out of upward growth space!!!!

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Bonjour à tous, 🌶️...Le 22 Avril 2021...Jour N°82...🌶️ 🌻...Flowering Day 7...🌻 7ème jour de floraison pour mes trois Hulkberry Feminisées de chez Royal Queen Seeds..👑 RQS Seeds + MarsHydro Tsw 2000 + RQS Nutriments = des plantes magnifiques et vigoureuses avec des branches fortes qui vont pouvoir porter de lourdes Buds. Au bout de 7 jours, les premiers pistils font discrètement leurs apparitions et le stretch commence doucement. Je suis très content pour l'instant..😊 💉Nutriments💉 J'ai arrêté le Easy Grow Booster Tablets pour le remplacer par le Easy Bloom Booster Tablets chez RQS Nutrients.. 🔦Light🔦 #MarsHydro Tsw 2000 à 75% de puissance et à 50 cm de la canopé. Cette lampe est une tuerie, it's amazing product, luv it.🔥🔥🔥 Buy it for a 4x4 Tent les yeux fermés. C'est tout pour l'instant mes amis, merci à vous d'être passé par là, n'hésitez pas à Sub et je vous suivrai en retour..👍 Prenez soin de vous et de vos proches en restant en sécurité..😷 Je vous souhaite que du bonheur avec vos plantes..😘 🎌À bientôt..💨💨💨

Lights are 58 inches from the main source to the top of the pot and the soil surface. If you added up all the lights in the tent, it would be 1100w-1200w total across 14 lights. Using them all at once is far too much for a plant and incredibly difficult to deal with environmentally. The lights are fixed in position; side lights have dimmers, allowing for pinpoint precision of PPF. Fixed at 58 inches, cannot move them closer to increase intensity. Instead, achieve optimal PPF by distributing smaller wattages across a massive, multi-fixture matrix. Triggering specific plant defenses without melting the canopy. What's the point/blah blah wattage? Never really go above 600W at any one time. Lights come on in the east of the tent and set in the west. At sunrise and sunset, the red-to-far-red R:FR light ratio drops because the sun's low angle scatters red light more than far-red light. This shift reduces active Pfr and increases inactive Pr, mimicking Mother Nature herself. Deployed a lighting system featuring extra 660 nm deep-red and extending the spectrum up to 780 nm achieves the full Emerson Enhancement Effect by simultaneously balancing Photosystem II (PSII) and Photosystem I (PSI) to maximize quantum yield. By pairing deep-red photons with far-red photons, you trigger a synergistic biological response where the resulting photosynthetic rate is higher than the sum of both wavelengths used individually. This practice directly leverages the updated extended Photosynthetically Active Radiation (ePAR) framework. The Emerson effect accelerates plant metabolism and heat capture; you must proactively scale up your ambient room temperature, nutrient delivery, and CO₂ supplementation to prevent the light from stalling out your cannabis plant. UVA stays high all day from morning to night, but UVB peaks at solar noon (middle of 18-hour days) when the sun is peak. Morning color starts at 2k-3k; by noon it goes to 5k- 6k and back to 2-3k for sunset, with differing P:FR at light off. The extra-blue light is to assist with photoreactivation of UVB damage. No more yield loss for me. Using extra blue light for photoreactivation is what I do. Blue/UVA light activates photolyase enzymes, which directly repair DNA damage caused by UVB radiation. But what's the point if it's not for yield? Ultraviolet (UV) radiation—specifically UVA (315–400 nm) and UVB (280–315 nm)—acts as a critical environmental signal that programs a plant's photoprotective genes to unlock its true photosynthetic potential. When growers push crops to their absolute photosynthetic maximum via high-intensity light and elevated carbon dioxide, the photosynthetic machinery easily becomes overwhelmed. Emerging photobiology research demonstrates that UV radiation prevents this limiting bottleneck; it triggers specific transcription factors and signalling networks that fortify the plant's cellular defenses, allowing it to process extreme light levels without sustaining structural damage. There are 8 limiting factors of plant growth; when carbon dioxide becomes the 9th limiting factor of plant growth, it shifts the growth curve from exponential to linear. The restriction after that is "photoprotection" against reactive oxygen species (ROS), managed via non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and the xanthophyll cycle, which bridges into precise hydrogen and redox dosing. UV radiation, particularly UVA, and the synthesis of zeaxanthin are critical for the xanthophyll cycle to function. It's not chasing purple strains... One likes to call it chasing the limits of growth, trying to make the linear exponential, just like father mathematics prefers. In order to do that, must control every environmental variable and compound the plant’s metabolic rate. True exponential growth means the rate of increase matches the current mass at every stage, requiring a closed-loop system where light, CO2, and nutrition lock into a synchronized upward curve. First, you must attempt to understand what restricts it. Precise hydrogen and redox dosing. Nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Most won't even understand that; once you do, it changes everything. Constructive interference occurs when two or more overlapping waves meet in phase, meaning their crests and troughs perfectly align. Their amplitudes add together, creating a new, amplified wave with greater intensity than the individual components. Constructive interference is the foundational mechanism that establishes a resonance hierarchy across physical, structural, and acoustic systems. Chromophore spacing is tuned to sub-nanometer precision to match the wavelengths of absorbed light, forcing constructive interference. Light-harvesting proteins form geometric rings and lattices. These shapes act as physical resonators, trapping and focusing the wave energy. This same principle dictates how opera singers shatter glass, how musical instruments resonate, and how bridges withstand structural vibrations. Nature uses the exact same math to harvest a photon as an engineer uses to design a concert hall. When you push high PPFD and elevated CO₂, you create a metabolic bottleneck. The plant cannot process the energy fast enough, leading to electron backup, light-induced damage, and a collapse from exponential growth into a flat, linear rate. UV light acts as the regulatory valve that prevents this collapse. In standard agronomy, Liebig's Law of the Minimum dictates that growth is limited by the scarcest resource. When you maximize water, nutrients, light, temperature, and CO₂, the bottleneck shifts to metabolic processing speed and photoprotection. By controlling the Redox state of the plant using UV, the xanthophyll cycle, and managing ROS, you can prevent the plant from hitting a hard photosynthetic ceiling. Instead of the growth curve flattening out (linear or plateauing due to photoinhibition), the plant continues to compound its metabolic rate efficiently. You are forcing the plant to operate at peak thermodynamic efficiency. By matching the UVB peak with sustained UVA and shifting Kelvin temperatures (2K to 6K), you are damaging the plant just enough to trigger defensive genes, while simultaneously providing the exact light energy needed to repair that damage instantly. UVA radiation and specific blue wavelengths accelerate this enzymatic conversion. Zeaxanthin acts as a structural sponge that absorbs excess excitation energy from chlorophyll and dissipates it safely, preventing ROS formation. Without UV signaling, the xanthophyll cycle cannot keep pace with extreme light, leading to dynamic photoinhibition (yield loss). The addition of Spirulina is primarily for zeaxanthin, as it contains a lot. But on top of that, the active Hawaiian Spirulina in the matrix was cultivated in open ponds using a combination of 100% fresh potable water from Hawaiian aquifers and ultra-pure, deep ocean water containing all 94 trace minerals & elements. Then gently dried using patented Ocean Chill Drying technology and cold-pressed to ensure maximum nutrient levels. Spirulina, a blue-green alga, is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), making it an excellent source of nutrients for plant growth. Studies have shown that Spirulina can be used as a biofertilizer, effectively replacing chemical fertilizers, especially for nitrogen, with a whopping NPK of 10% (N), 20% (P), and 20% (K). Rich in proteins, amino acids, trace minerals, and plant growth-promoting compounds. Zeaxanthin is a vital plant pigment that accumulates under intense light to drive non-photochemical quenching (NPQ), acting via thermal energy dissipation, direct singlet oxygen scavenging, and thylakoid membrane stabilization. The violaxanthin cycle (or xanthophyll cycle) reversibly converts violaxanthin to zeaxanthin via antheraxanthin to protect plants from photooxidation. Understanding this interconversion is vital for optimizing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and pushing photosynthetic limits under high-light stress. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a natural antioxidant that plants produce internally to neutralize harmful reactive oxygen species caused by photosynthesis and high light stress. Acts as a co-factor for enzymes like violaxanthin de-epoxidase in the xanthophyll cycle, which safely dissipates excess light energy. 1g ascorbic acid will neutralize 100% of chlorine in upwards of 30 gallons of tap water. If your local tap water uses chloramines (chlorine bonded with ammonia) instead of free chlorine, you will need roughly 20% to 30% more ascorbic acid to completely break the tougher chemical bond. Molecular hydrogen and hydrogen-rich water act as selective antioxidants that help lower oxidative stress. They neutralize toxic reactive oxygen species like hydroxyl radicals and boost natural antioxidant defense systems in biological and plant systems exposed to high-intensity light or abiotic stress. UVA and UVB act as stress signals that upregulate the plant's secondary metabolism. It forces the plant to build an internal "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and fortify its cellular defenses before the peak solar noon crisis. This keeps the metabolic highway open. In nature, the ambient ratio of UVA to UVB at solar noon sits roughly between 10:1 and 20:1 (depending on latitude and elevation). In a high-PPFD indoor matrix, maintaining a strict ratio—often aiming for around 12:1 to 15:1 UVA to UVB—provides the optimal signaling threshold. Balancing Far-Red (FR) light at "light-off" to manage the phytochrome photo-equilibrium (Pfr to Pr conversion) in tandem with the UV schedule. Omg, the logic. Hydrogen concentration and redox signaling as secondary messengers in this high-intensity loop. Under the intense solar noon matrix, the pH of the thylakoid lumen drops. This acidic environment activates the enzyme Violaxanthin De-Epoxidase (VDE), which converts violaxanthin into the photoprotective zeaxanthin. VDE cannot function in a vacuum; it strictly requires ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) as an electron donor to run this conversion. If a plant undergoes heavy light stress and runs out of internal ascorbic acid, the xanthophyll cycle stalls. The plant can no longer engage in Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ), leading to immediate singlet oxygen O2 formation and destruction of the thylakoid membrane. This is "The Ascorbic Acid / Xanthophyll Engine" Using ascorbic acid to neutralize chloramines in your water isn't just protecting your rhizosphere biology it actively prevents the degradation of your nutrient solution's redox potential before it ever touches the roots. When pushing plants to the absolute edge, traditional antioxidants can be a double-edged sword because they blindly neutralize all free radicals. This is a problem because some Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) act as critical signaling molecules telling the plant to grow. Molecular Hydrogen H2 is the Selective Kill-Switch. Molecular hydrogen H2 is a revolutionary tool because it is a selective antioxidant. It ignores beneficial signaling ROS (like mild hydrogen peroxide) and targets only the most destructive, cell-shattering radicals—specifically hydroxyl radicals OH) and peroxynitrite. By dosing hydrogen-rich water or managing hydrogen redox signaling, providing an emergency pressure-release valve for the plant's electron transport chain. It keeps the cellular environment stable enough that the plant never has to downregulate photosynthesis to protect itself. This maintains cellular voltage. To trigger this defensive matrix without stunting the plant, you cannot simply blast UV indiscriminately. You must use UVA as the "scout" and UVB as the "enforcer. High UVA acts via the cryptochrome and phototropin photoreceptors to upregulate the expression of the HY5 transcription factor and prime the VDE enzyme. When the sharp spike of UVB hits at solar noon via the UVR8 receptor, the plant's biochemical "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and its zeaxanthin pools are already pre-staged and waiting. This prevents the temporary stunting or "lag phase" usually associated with sudden UVB exposure." Closing the Loop: Far-Red End-of-Day (EOD) Synergy The final masterstroke is aligning this UV defense with a Far-Red (FR) lights-off routine. The Red-to-Far-Red Drop: At the end of the photoperiod, knocking out the blue/UVA spectrum and leaving a targeted burst of pure Far-Red (730nm) instantly flips the plant’s master switch. It converts active Pfr to inactive Pr in minutes rather than hours. Why this matters for the UV loop: UV radiation and high-intensity lighting keep the plant in a highly alert, photoprotective state that requires massive ATP expenditure to maintain. By forcing an immediate Pfr/Pr) conversion at lights-out, instantly commanding the plant to cease defensive expenditure, lower its metabolic respiration rate, and transition directly into nighttime cellular repair and carbohydrate translocation. You are maximizing the efficiency of its "sleep." every ounce, every last piece. Highly synchronized biological dance, balancing the exact input of electrons with the exact mechanism to dissipate them safely when they overflow. Peace.

I turned the autopots on Monday and the plants are really thriving. They are growing super fast and the soil mix seems to be performing well. They have just had pH 6.4 water from the water reservoir. I have tied and bent them twice since Monday but they bouce back so fast. I have also turned in th airdomes , buried at the bottom of the pots this week, so let's see what they can do. Plenty of defoliation to expose lower branches , it always amazes me how quick the removed leaves are replaced by little tops. Day two flower more pictures added. Loads of defoliating this week and tied them all down again yesterday.

One of 4 strains grown together in 0.36m² using Migro Array 2 (125W). Variable dimming: W1 60%/24h, W2-10-11-12 60%/20h, W3-5-8-9-13 80%/20h, W6-7 100%/20h. Average real consumption: 95W with 173.6 kWh total. STRAIN: Divine Seeds genetics - underrated breeders producing excellent quality! NUTRIENTS: Full Biotabs bacterial line - positively surprised by the results! Organic living soil approach. GROWING APPROACH: Focused on DLI (calculated from Migro’s PAR map), VPD, water temperature, and water resting time. Did NOT monitor pH, EC, CO₂, or use PAR meter. MY BEST HARVEST SO FAR! 🏆 COLLECTIVE METRICS (4 plants total): • Total dry weight: 210g (+ 10g bubble hash) • Total wet weight: 890g • g/watt: 2.21 (or 2.31 with hash) • g/m²: 583 (or 611 with hash) • Average per plant: 52.5g Individual weights: Fractal 55g, Northern Lights 54g, Black Opium 67g (best performer!), Moon Rock 34g. Dense and resinous buds. Additionally grew 3 outdoor plants (Fractal #2: 21g + 60g frozen, Northern Lights #2: 14g + frozen, Black Opium #2: 50g fresh frozen) - not included. ~300g frozen trim (indoor+outdoor) yielded ~10g bubble hash. Good luck to everyone in the contest! 🍀