See you next week with harvest And smoke report od Blueberry Bliss

starting to smell like a winner!

Decided to transplant the ladys because they werde Not so happy in their small cups. Now they got plants of space in their new 55l pot🍋🍒🍦 Plant in back needs more nitrogen

Está creciendo bastante bien, algunas están haciendo crecer las ramas satélite, las LK parecen que no, se nota 1 semana de retraso, también se nota en los nodos que tienen 1 menos. La siguiente semana cambio de fotoperiodo a 12/12.

Charged with L.S.T and SuperCroping

[ Information ] For all grow information, including strain and room details, please see the first week of veg. [ Updates ] (Flower) Day 1 - Light intensity increased to 65%. C02 increased to 1300ppm average. Day temp/humidity 85/70 (1-1.2VPD), night temp/humidity 75/65 (.8-1VPD). Fed a diluted compost tea mixture before lights on. Base water was R/O and tap water mixed lightly with silica and Tribus microbes. Tea was a mixture of Fish Hydrolysate, Bat Guano, Molasses, Fulvic/Humic, Kelp, and Earthworm Castings. 8 gallons of tea were added to 72 gallons of water mixture for an 80gal batch total. The batch was mixed for a half hour before feeding to the room. I did not PH or PPM test the mixture, organic material is hard to get an accurate PPM reading so the numbers are useless to me. I will be working to bring the lights to 100% power over this first week of flower. Day 4 - Light intensity increased daily, currently at 90%. Will raise to full power tomorrow. C02 increased to 1800ppm average. Temp and humidity for day and night are still the same. Lights were raised slightly to maintain 12 inches from canopy height, and a few growth nodes that were above the canopy got topped. Watered today with an 80gal (1.25gal p/pot) mixture, 10% tap 90% r/o water. 6.8 PH, 2.2ec. Foliar sprayed yesterday before lights off with a neem mixture for weekly IPM. Canopies are stretching relatively evenly, though I will be adding in support nets within a few days to help maintain the even spread. I've run this strain before so I'm fairly confident that I know what to expect during these few stretch weeks. Day 7 - Lights have been at 100% since day 5. C02 still 1800-2000ppm on average. Plants are stretching quickly into the lights, I have yet to readjust their height. The best growth usually happens when I do nothing, and I've done almost nothing the past couple days besides enjoy the unusually warm spring weather my area is currently experiencing. Watered today, 100gal (1.5gal p/pot) mixture, <1ec. Mainly an organic feeding for microbe health, also wanted a bit more runoff than normal due to the high ec feeding previously.

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

These are clones that I managed to take from my summer garden that became a disaster due to a heat wave that we had breaking 100 year records. I expect everything to be 48” in height at maturity.

The plant has become a real monster. I expected it to be stretched for another 4 to 5 days. But it has stopped growing and is now producing flowers. I used the vegitative fertilizer again for the nutrient solution. In a few days she will receive a nutrient solution for the flowers and then I'm very excited. The treatment with BAC was very successful

week 10 we put in a scrog net on the sleeping beauty and continued lst on the tropicana poison. I also FIM'ed them, again, trying to make them bush out like crazy to each fill a 4x4, 4x8 total

28/07/2022 - Day 70 - First day of the 11th week. Last update before harvest. Still drinking water only. Wish me good luck and let's hope in sunny mild days 🤞☀️ - DD

Nothing much, now the flowering started I've changed from P20 phosphore to pk13/14 ~ 2 ml a liter.

FUCK BOYS .... AND ONLY A LOOK TO LOOK AT THEM ... THOSE SUGARS FILLED WITH SUGAR MAKE YOU WANT TO EAT THEM ... I ALREADY FEEL A GOOD SMELL !!! .... I CAN'T WAIT TO TASTE THEM ALL * THE CENTRAL PLANT ENDED TO BURN HIMSELF ... BUT THE IMPRESSIVE THING IS THAT, AFTER HAVING SPACED THE LAMPS, THE LATERAL ROPES ARE COVERING THE SANDED PART * THE STRAIN ON THE RIGHT AND GROWING SELF-DRIVEN AND HAS DEVELOPED TWO APICAL TOPS WITH TWO DIFFERENT BRANCHES .... I AM IMPRESSED BY THE RESISTANCE OF THESE CHILDREN .... @FAST_BUDS YOU ARE A GREAT

Tag 30. Letzte woche der Vegetation.

Gorilla Glue leaves are fading fast.

So gut wie erntereif :)

**3RD UPDATE** looks like my work pairs off a little. My babies have grown tremendously. Day 12 and I feel pretty good about how things are going **2ND UPDATE** I ordered smart plug for my outlet where my grow tent is pulling power from. I have my lights automatically turning off for 4 hours everyday from 12-4, while is still in vegatative mode **UPDATE** so, my grow is coming along fine, but I think it could be better. I’m noticing a lot of week 2s from journals of the same strain, and mine looks either a little behind or a lot behind, depending on soil/soilless. I think my light distance has a lot to play with it. I had my light relatively high, almost 2 and a half feet above my plants. I dropped it down to about about 18 inches, as low as possible, while still covering my grow area. If anyone can provide any advice or opinions, it’d be greatly appreciated. I hope this week will be a lot of growth, fingers crossed.** So, it’s officially week 2 of my grow. I’m pretty excited! I have 3 Six Shooters growing....all 3 germinated,,,2 are growing and reaching, 1 is a little behind, though I’m not too concerned about her. They all are growing their 2nd pair of leaves, and I don’t expect much activity this week, although I will still try to update daily. I had a great Saturday, wake n bake sesh...then I took some of you guys advice and went to my local hydroponics/garden store....and realized quickly how much I was spending online vs shopping local. On top of that, I got a nice 30 minute lecture from one of the staff about everything. To my surprise, they start seedlings and small plants there too, aside from basil and your other herbs, if you know what I mean. So they have everything a gardener would need! I was told to transport gradual sizes....basically....like I’m planning to use 3 gallon pots right? But, I can’t go from my seedling container to a 3 pot gallon straight like that. It’s bad for the plant and extremely risky. You’ll have to water that whole pot, but with the seedling or small plant only having so many roots, it would end up basically flooding the plant out. So you move up gradually. I’ll get back to that later. The soil I was using was extremely basic; Lowe’s soil, and vermiculite mix that I blended 2 parts to 1, respectively. It was a good enough medium to sprout my seedlings and get them started, but I knew I needed more. So the guy helping me hooked me up with a 2 cubic feet/15 gallon bag of Fox Farm Happy Frog Potting Soil. I told him I was on a site (ours) where the community is pretty interactive/helpful and how I was concerned about transplanting because of the risks...He shows me this stuff called Myko, which is a root enhancer. He then transplanted a basil seedling to a larger container. Before placing it in the pre-made hole he created, he sprinkled some Myko on the roots AND in the transplanting hole (? I might have made that term up). It promotes root growth and enhances root strength as well, which not only counters transplant shock, but pretty much puts your roots on steroids. I bought a bag of that. When it’s time for flowering, I’ll be using Strawberry Fields potting soil. I went ahead and purchased other containers as well, up to the 3 gallon fabric pots which will be the plants’ final destination. I told him my water feeding schedule, water every day, water/notes on alternating days. He was a fan of it, and suggested that I go a little further and do my days like this: FEED, FEED, WATER, and so on. I purchased Cali-Mag to make sure I have enough calcium going on. I went ahead and got a PH kit as well, to make sure my water and nute days are both within 5.5-6.5 pH. I slick felt like I was in high school science/chemistry all over again lol. I went ahead and bought coated metal flower support wires for LST. He did mention doing “supertopping”, but forgot to show me on a plant. Basically, it’s gently bending the main cola back and forth until you can have it bent in a ways to where you can maneuver it under netting/lattice to allow other cola to get equal/adequate energy and/or growth. I’m paraphrasing this shit, so by all means, correct me. I’m just hoping I can help someone else. I transplanted my plants to GroPro Square 4 x 4 x 3.5 plastic potting containers, and used the Mykos on the roots and soil. I then watered my plants with the water/CaliMag solution, and placed them under the grow lights again. I’ll add pix and vids to my entry shortly.