Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

Beginning of 6th week of flowering F36 SD2 smells like a burning tire next to an engine oil spill. The smell is aggressive and gets into your nose. SD3 smells like sweet engine grease with a warmth.The smell is inviting.

Learned a lot from this grow and am very happy with the results. Pulled 2.8 Oz and 1.1 Oz of trim/popcorn buds in a one gallon pot. Definitely wont be doing that again, but had a lot of fun throughout the entire process. Going to be starting another grow soon! Very excited for that.

Got some mildews here and there but i solved it with hydrogen peroxide, lemon, water and baking soda solution

Cette semaine été décisifs, les pompons se développe bien et givré. La suite au prochain épisode growers.

Screenshot😩🔝

Procede molto bene . È sana e forte, non so se allenarla in qualche modo o lasciarla crescere così. Per ora la ho travasata in un vaso rotondo da 5 litri. Aspettiamo e vediamo se tagliare .

Que pasa familia, vamos con la sexta semana de floración de estas Tropicana Cookies Fast Flowering, de FastBuds. Los ejemplares tienen muy buen color han cedido muy uniformes y las flores están progresando a muy buen ritmo. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 21/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. Van llenándose las flores de resina y van hinchando las flores, veremos estas próximas semanas como avanzan. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

📆 Week 11, 30 June - 6 July 2024 30 June - 6 July - Observed and let the plant grow. 📑 All is great with this little lady. She is entering her final week of flower, just before a flush. The smell is very strong, leaves are fading nicely, and buds have swollen. The pistils have turned brown and trichomes are almost at 10% amber. She is at her peek of ripeness. 🍶 nutrient solution not changed 🍽️ feeding schedule not updated 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🔆 Light power at 50%, DLI 40 canopy coverage at 18hrs 😤 Using PYPABL, Air Pump, 400GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.

So this is the Tear Down week. The timing of it makes it so i will need to the harvest flag in a few days when I can weight and test the plants. I have included the Cleaning, and Cutting and some Root Porn. I will make the harvest post in about 4-5 days, when I can trim these plants. There is a lot of Plant here. I got way more than I was expecting. I don't have a scale that measure this amount of plant, without taking like 10 measurements and then adding them together. So I will just be posting the dry weight. I will post the wet weight as dry weight * 1.65. Autopots: Wow, what a great product. I have been blown away by how well and how easy it was to work with them. They really did solve the watering issues. Excellent product. If you are a beginner, start with Autopots. -= Lessons Learnt =- - Overdrive the air to your Autopots. In my control plant, I used a small rectangle air stone (instead of a standard air dome). This lead to root rot and some other issues, it also put significantly less air into the water. The root rot, give the material for the Brown Algae to grow. Using a huge Air-disc-Air-Stone would be an excellent combo to mix in with the air dome itself. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Pawfly-Diffuser-Suction-Hydroponics-Aquarium/dp/B01MY3AQ33 at the bottom and the air-dome on top of it, will be what I do with my next experiment. - Air stone in the reservoir. I had two instances where algae grew into the res. An air stone would have helped. It would have also helped my control plant get less root rot. Given the amount that the air-domes and air sources got engulfed, having the water have more o2 in it would have only been beneficial. - Don't grow 6 plants in a 4x4. Since my control plant was about 1/8th the size of the others, I think I could have grown 5 in the shape of a 5 (on a 6 sided dice)⚄ This placement would give a much more spaced canopy for airflow and more importantly light. The sides of some of the plants were lighter green and produced larf due to lack of light penetration. - This tent was on 19-5 schedule. This worked out very well for this strain. After every lights on, they were in the praying position, so this strain was able to recover in that 5hrs off. If I had more seeds, I would run these again, and try 20-4. I think this strain could handle it. All for all, I think I'm going to 19-5 as my default timing. This kept up a solid DLI. - Staring at .9EC (really .7 EC cause my water here is .2 EC) Then bumping up at .1 a week, until 1.6EC worked out VERY well. I experimented on this crop all the way up to 1.9EC, which burnt the tips of this plant. I think if I did this strain again, I would do 1.6EC until 3-4 weeks left then crank it to 1.9. It did plump them up when I went to 1.9, however it left them looking rough. Bulk was added though. - Sticking to 6.0PH for all of veg, and 2 weeks into flower worked great. The plant had solid and consistent color and leaf shape . The plant's did get hurt, due to some issues (as noted on the weeks). I switched to 6.5 PH in the last 3-4 weeks and it helped them recover, and plump up noticeably. -VPD. The #1 thing I focused on was VPD. I keep it .9kpa range, as best as humanly possible. It was honestly, HUGELY noticeable compared to my other grows. I know truly understand the value of properly dialed in VPD. This is the one lesson that will stick with me forever. - Super-cropping: On the plants I give the chiropractic treatment too, had much thicker stems as much larger channel internally. I did this treatment to 4 of the 6, and the 4 that had it done has larger buds and recovered from defoliation faster. TLDR; VPD is king. Super-cropping is worth the time. Keeping PH and EC dialed in were all wins. Autopots kick ass.

3.23.25 Fastbuds LSD-25 auto #1 Germination 1st week Only watering with spring water. Going to be using foop nutrients with Humboldts secret cal/ mag and nectar for the gods ph up and down! Here we go!

Growing... They are growing...

Here we are again to tell you about this crazy strain that we found: White Truffle by Zamnesia, worked with a main lining sent into flowering very quickly due to the arrival of the heat. We can spend two and a half months doing main lining but guys it also depends on the times and many other factors, if it were up to me I would always make trees but you have to adapt. ** We remind all users that we grow two plants per strain, one worked with specific techniques and the other left to grow freely this was main lined. Description // This plant was worked with a main lining, having very irregular internodes it was complicated to decide what to keep and what to leave but in the end the plant is not bad at all. The flowers are very particular we have pure polypeptide flowers that have given us a very particular shape. The resin is also very good and after 48 hours of darkness there is that effect that only the dark finale can give, do not give up on this procedure especially in periods of less resining like summer. Trichomes and maturation // We did a thorough microscopic analysis 10x (and 10x x 1.6) and noticed a good percentage of milky/lumpy trichomes; The percentage of amber trichomes was also excellent and still a bit transparent, but that's fine for us as we're not crazy about THC oxidation and hyper indica effects around here. Here too some red head trichomes I had mistakenly said that they are a little rarer but obviously I was wrong sorry guys and girls. Fertilizers and soil // We used the Plagron organic fertilizer range, all the recommended additives and Pro Mix soil, both unfertilized and organic. Calculate the dosage according to your needs on the website ------ https://plagron.com/ The nutrients are available in convenient packs on the Zamnesia website --------- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11457-plagron-easy-pack-natural.html Try this strain, it's an autumnal crazy delight ---- // https://www.zamnesia.io/11184-zamnesia-white-truffle-seeds.html Zamnesia Brief Description // The product of crossing GG with Peanut Butter Breath, White Truffle boasts a first-class genetic line, taking the best from some of the best American cultivars. And as you'd expect, it has a lot to offer: a high THC content, an irresistible flavor and a relaxing, carefree effect. Oh, and let's not forget that it's incredibly easy to grow too! Buy your seeds today and enjoy easy harvests of delicious, US-grown bud. And as you'd expect, it has a lot to offer: a high THC content, an irresistible flavor and a relaxing, carefree effect. Oh, and let's not forget that it's incredibly easy to grow too! Buy your seeds today and enjoy easy harvests of delicious, USA-grown bud. The whole world of growing and more is here at Zamnesia - visit the site for "nature's best" in all shapes and colors. The new strains are amazing and the old ones are no exception... -- // www.zamnesia.com

I did a heavy defoliation with the green crack for the first time.. the first 3 pics are pre- and the last 3 pics are post-defoliation. Definitely better air flow now as well as more "tops" being seen. Tomorrow going to do the durban.. update w more pics then.

Well finally got word on my lights I’ll be picking them up tomorrow! Still keeping it light on the feed! Doing plant Guard once a week and feeding once a week! It’s going to fun changing out lights with a full room! But I couldn’t turn down the offer! But I’m ready to flip! But I might strip the plants a bit and give them a week to recover! I stripped them good a while back but looks like I didn’t do s damn thin now!🤷‍♂️🏽

Final week (I think) This plant is just one big bud now. Smelling fantastic and looking gorgeous. Checked the terpenes this morning a only a few more amber which makes me think this light stretch another week. Two florakleen flushes now so from here on out it’s just water. (Thursday) So believe it or not I don’t think this is going to be finished this weekend as I had hoped. It still might have another week left. Only starting to see multiple amber trichomes under the microscope and I don’t really want to rush it based on what my timeline should be. I want this to be perfect or as close to it as possible based on my skill set. Going to ride it out with just ph water and see how it goes.

On day 1 the reservoirs PH is 6.3. The rez is 483 ppm. The girls are looking good and nitrogen toxicity seems to have stopped. On day 2 the reservoirs PH was adjusted from 6.1 to 6.3. The rez is 477 ppm. Trichomes seem to be 10% cloudy so I still have a bit to go i'm thinking 9 weeks should be a good bet! On day 3 the reservoirs PH was adjusted from 6.4 to 6.1. The rez is 500 ppm. On day 4 the reservoirs PH is 6.2. The rez is 503 ppm. I lowered the ppfd so my tallest received 900 ppfd and an average of 543 ppfd. On day 5 the reservoirs PH is 6.2. The rez is 519 ppm. I removed some of the extra fan leaves blocking bud sites. On day 6 I changed out the reservoir with only tap water and adjusted the PH from 6.7 to 6.1 with a ppm of 249. The trichomes are maturing and I plan on harvesting on week 8 day 4 of flower. On day 7 the reservoirs PH was adjusted from 6.5 to 6.0. The rez ppm is 250.

Gonna harvest soon

The green beast is growing very well so far and next with should get much bigger 👹

D49 - Today is the first day in the seventh week of veg for #2 and the sixth for #1. It has been a week since I topped the first girl, so I went ahead and topped her for the third and final time. #2 is thriving, and I'm using LST to spread her out while keeping her flat. With the toppings now done, I can install the scrog net soon-ish. As for the thrips, I haven't noticed any additional damage, and hopefully, the mites are doing their thing. I realized, though, that I had one extra package of mites. Instead of waiting for slow release, I went full Rambo by cutting up the package and sprinkling the mites/sawdust all over the girls and soil. I also redirected the airflow to not blow directly on the plants. I'll leave the sawdust there until tomorrow and then brush it off. The slow-release bags are still on the plants, so there isn't much to lose with additional shock-and-awe tactics. DIE THRIPS!!! Finally, I started a compost tea heavy with neem meal, which should help create an inhospitable environment for the thrips. Worst case, I have neem oil, but I don't want to go down that route unless I have to. D53 - I did some additional LST to both girls and removed a few leaves and branches on the underside of #2. I also cut back the cover crop and gave each girl 2.5-liters of water @ pH 6.3. D55 - I gave both girls around 2.5-liters of compost tea @ pH 6.5. The first girl has bounced back strong after her final topping, and in a few days, it will be time to flip, but I need to do one last defoliation before that. Sorry about the porn-light pics. I was a bit late, and my lights had already gone into sunset mode.