Perfect. Now when to harvest? Seeing about 20 percent amber in some buds. Others are still only cloudy. The beginning of week 8 starts in 4 days. But I transitioned to flowering lighting over the course of a week. So maybe tomorrow. maybe the next day too. As soon as I see more than 30 percent amber trichomes on main colas(all of them) I will harvest. Ripening buds are a true beauty. Damn these are a sight to behold. This is my second grow. I learned a lot. I love it. So smelly I just can't believe it. Tried to take a trichome pick. Still maybe 15 percent amber color starting to appear

Because of the hight and cold we have some and very different Pheno's its not gonna be my best run.. but we have still got some time..

Strong genetics, resistant, fast enough, easy to grow and never pretentious. I will try further training techniques on this strain, while waiting to make more room in the box to plant the Red hot cookie as well. If you like sweet flavors and fragrant plants this is definitely for you! Soon new updates for a cycle of only plants in "monstercropping", to continue my eternal red garden 😁🦄 thanks for following me up to here and leave a comment and suggestions 🦄👍🤘

Finally flipped the lights over to flower mode and took the humidifier out of the tent. So far so good we are gonna keep watching to make sure we didn't over do the nuts. Don't want any Nut burn that can be annoying. make sure you hit the follow button

03/10/2022

Was a little on the airy side, probablysomething I did though. Its in cure now gonna wait for 4-20 to smoke so cant give report on that just yet! All in all very happy with my first harvest!

Läuft gut soweit. Lichtstärke der Lampe auf 60% gestellt. Ein paar Blätter entfernt, die Nebentrieben das Licht genommen haben. Ich habe das Gefühl die Lemon Haze wächst etwas langsamer. Eventuell braucht die Sorte wärmere Temperaturen.

Well, not the biggest yield from my little mainline...28g of keeper buds and 28 grams of trim and little buds for RSO. The smell from the buds is hard to pinpoint. A little pine, a little sweet, a little chicken soup. Very much on the earthy side and affects are smooth and sedating. 100% some chill, social smoke or great for anxiety.

Over all was an amazing grow, super sticky dense nugs with smell of berries, highly recommended for everyone!!

18.5.25: I watered with 3ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4. I added Per 6.5 litres; ♡ 1Tsp Sea K(elp) ♡ 1/2 Tsp Bud Explosion PK booster ♡ 7ml Trace PH: 6.4 PPM: 780 I added the PK booster this feeding, just to provide some phosphorus without risking an excess. Next time, I won't use it. 19.5.25. Northern lights had got quite bushy, and there were a lot of extra leaves covering up some prime budsites. So I went ahead and Defoliated some of the larger fan leaves that were covering and blocking out other buds. The plants are growing very fast. The buds are getting very nicely structured. Northern Lights is drinking about 3 l per day, and I will continue to use the Greenleaf nutrients sea kelp and Ecothrive Biosys, along with the Ecothrive trace For the calcium, magnesium and trace elements. She has indeed stopped stretching now and is focusing on the bud formations. It's a very lovely smell, too! 😋 I use these all the way through. ☆ Xpert Nutrients PH down, up to 1ml. ☆ Ecothrive Neutralise 1 drop per litre from the 1ml pipette, which is attached. This is my dechlorinator. 21.5.25: I defoliated today again. This time, I took a little more off than I did yesterday as things had become congested, and the buds in the centre weren't getting any light. I got covered in sticky...ness?! I forgot to wear gloves, but for some reason, my non dominant hand got covered in resin and the other, not at all. Anyway, I hope I've managed to include the before defoliation and after videos/photos. I think it's much better after, there's so many buds I couldn't even see in the centre! I probably should have done it sooner, but I was trying hard to take as little as possible this run. Anyway, this is the prime bud building period. So, taking the leaves covering all the centre colas will not only provide equal light penetration but also get rid of some of the nutrients stored in the leaves. So, any nutrients available in the remaining leaves can deplete to a happy medium. That being said, we're coming close to the end of mid flowering. I'm really hoping to produce some good sized colas! 🤞💚😉🍃😃🌱 I'm certain I won't be disappointed, she's looking 🔥😍😀😋 24.5.25: I watered with Ecothrive Biosys 3ltrs each. The plants are still drinking at least 2 litres per day. They are increasingly thirsty, and it's important that I don't let them dry out. The soil is mostly coco and perlite, so it can dry out quicker. There are plenty of worm castings, too, so that definitely helps. The buds are developing and progressing very nicely, keeping up with the flowering nutrients and alternating between Ecothrive Biosys, Trace, and Greenleaf Nutrients. 24.5.25: I watered with 2.5 ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 I added Per 6.5 litres; ♡ 1Tsp Sea K(elp) ♡ 1/2 Tsp Bud Explosion ♡ 7ml Trace PH: 6.3 PPM: 840 SOLUTION TEMP: 30°C SOIL PH: 7 SOIL TEMP: 21°C AMBIENT TEMPERATURE: 23-26°C RELATIVE HUMIDITY: 58%. Thanks for stopping by 😊🌱🤞💚✌️🍃

Empieza la segunda semana con el trasplante a su maceta definitiva. Es pronto para hacerlo, pero las plantas se estaban espigando demasiado. Riego en nueva maceta con estimulador de raíces. La semilla pegada sigue ahí, no afecta al crecimiento de la planta, así que voy a dejar que la naturaleza haga su trabajo. Ahora toca dejarlas tranquilas para que crezcan a su ritmo.

They are ready the only thing is I'm going to wait for the other plans to catch up probably 4 more days they smell really nice and can't wait to try this legendary strain. Notice that they can be sensitive to foxtailing if light is to close to their buds. Thank you for reading I will Continue to update have a happy grow.

Defoliated and fully leaf stripped. I am going all out to see what happens. Wedding gelato is a fairly tall plant for my tent and future grows will have to be properly trained and tied down. Live and learn. So far happy with the results from hydro grow. Roots have worked their way into the res so I have added an air bubbler to the submerged roots.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

I noticed yellowing of the lower leaves a few days back and was kind of confused because in the past my PPM was fine for "small plants/seedlings". At this size there should have been no problems. What I did not account for was the underground root zone I was growing this time because of the "RAW" beneficial spores and bacteria powder I added. Pleasantly surprised when I transplanted to 3gal pots from the red solo starter cups to see such a packed root zone!!!! I powdered the roots with Advanced Nutrients Tarantula and stuck them into the final home base of ProMix HP mixed with around 25%Perlite for added lightness in 3gallon pots. I prefer a dryer mix and can water more often when needed. Its easy to take care of such a small grow room when it comes to watering/feeding so the light soil works well for me and is a bonus at flushing time. Other than the little yellowing of lower baby leaf, the plants are very stout and study. The main stalks are quite thick for such small plants. I had 6inch fans blowing on them since the 2nd weeks so Im sure that helped. Video added and 2 pics

Very happy with the outcome just as good as the first time I grown this strain!!!!