The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
Likes
Comments
Share
@Docteur_8
Follow
1st week of grow, wonder how long i will let them veg before switch to bloom. Didnt precise that seeds from this part of the box are not feminized, I’ll maybe lose some of them during stretch. Strengh and pleasure to all during this worldwide weird period 🌱💪🏼
Likes
20
Share
@Chubbs
Follow
420Fastbuds FBT2305 Week 7 What up everyone. Week 7 update for these two powerhouses. They are growing absolutely ideal. Nothing special done. Just keeping the same feeding schedule of nutes every 3rd time with water and calmag on the other times. All in all Happy Growing
Likes
14
Share
@fivegrow
Follow
Top leaves are turning yellow probably due to excess light and heat. Temperatures are very high above 30oC in southeastern Brazil. I increased the lighting distance 30cm from the top. QB LM301H 120W
Likes
24
Share
COLOMBIAN JACK by KANNABIA Week #17 Overall Week #6 Flower This week she's doing good as she continues to flower no issues this week to report. She's smelling great!! Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com COLOMBIAN JACK
Likes
16
Share
An Indica-dominant hybrid that’s incredibly easy to grow and very resilient, suited for new and experienced growers who, with not much effort, will be rewarded with impressive 24% THC packed colorful buds with red and pink highlights, accompanied with light orange and white pistils that stand out from afar. Provides a powerful yet not overwhelming high that comes hand in hand with a unique extremely delicious sweet and doughy citrus pine-sol smell. Lemon Pie Auto performs exceptionally well indoors and outdoors, where it’s recommended to grow in bigger pots to let her show her full potential; being able to yield up to 550 gr/m2 in around 8 weeks. The extremely dense and chunky buds will leave you amazed by the excessive resin production that makes it look like they are completely buried in it, perfect for people looking for potency and great taste while having a balanced cerebral and body effect that will please even the more experienced growers. Also recommended for extractors looking for terpenes that will captivate your taste buds. Tech Specs Taste Lemon, Dough, Sweet, Pine THC Up to 24% CBD < 1% Size XL Height 80 – 100 cm Flowering 8 – 9 weeks Genes Sativa 50%/Indica 50% --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Grow Sponsored by MARSHYDRO HIGH EFFICIENCY WHITE LED LIGHT: Newest SMD LED technology provide highest PAR/LUMEN output(743umol@18"), designed to replace a single-ended 250watt HPS; MARS HYDRO TS 1000W Plants Growing lamp makes you get 30% higher yield compare OLD blurple led lights, Max 2.0g yield per wattage (power draw) LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION GROW LIGHTING : Consuming only 150W with 342 LEDS! It saves up to 50% energy than other led grow lights. Perfect for 2.5x2.5ft,Max coverage 3x3ft. Over 90% light energy can be absorbed by plants; higher intensity and more even coverage in a MARS HYDRO grow tent, reflective area, or by crossing over using multiple TS1000 SUNLIKE FULL SPECTRUM LED INDOOR GROWING: 660-665nm Red IR/3200-4200Knm/5200-6800Knm, infinite close to natural light, best for all plants all stages growing, rapid plant response from seed to flower and increase yield & crop quality‎ HIGH REFLECTIVE & NOISE FREE-Fanless LED GROW SYSTEM design will make your growing life easy and quiet, quickly heat dispersing material aluminum reducing light lost to aisles and walls, increase the light intensity up to 20%, allowing your plants receive more energy and without burning your plants for maximum headroom Get your own at https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07ZVFBR34
Likes
48
Share
@Focus420
Follow
Vše podle plánu na první výpěstek se musim pochválit. Až na tu kombinaci fem/auto do jednoho growboxu 🙂😝 Potřeboval jsem rychlou úrodu🌱🤗 Příště jenom celoroční odrůdy
Likes
4
Share
She will be short but fully covered in buds.
Likes
5
Share
@Dunk_Junk
Follow
Her first week!! Soil mix in her little 1L airpot is 2:1 Soil:Perlite
Likes
70
Share
All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 28 Just a quick update for this morning since I had to move the ties a little. LST, I now have them above the 3rd node branches. Stats are normal and the growth tips are turning upward now. Stats 73F/ 63% RH /IL Vent at 33% - Lights also same as before 345ppfd highest, 330 center, and 315 at lowest. No need for adjustment. She seems to be taking the training well. Day 29 Water day - checked last night and decided it was time again - Water by weight again so no runoff to measure at about 4 cups. (4 days since last feed by weight) 13lbs even par is 15lbs 4oz so I prepared 2lbs 4oz of water. Tested my meter and discovered it needed calibration (the temp is off and cant be calibrated - so I used a trusty meat thermometer. started with 4ppm and added 300ppm of epsom and vegmix ph balanced to 6.34 at 69.8F - then splashed with H2O2. Poured around roots and splashed the stem base - sprayed some on the leaves and use the whole amount. Had to adjust lights now to be brighter so I brought them down to 18.5" and ppfd is now 375highest 360 center and 345 at lowest. VPD is normal at 1.0 with 73F /63% RH /33% IL Vent - fans are pointed to directly now as the leaves are starting to get rough feeling - so I moved them a bit to blow less directly Training is doing good nice upward turn on the training (making small LST movements with the ties other than than... just letting it make new branches. Day 30 Checked PH and got 5.0 on my meter(+1.25 tested differential = 6.25) Stats normal too - 73F /64% RH /33% IL Vent - Lights at 385highest 370 center and 355 at lowest Removed cross ties since they are no longer needed to hold the fan leaves- training still looking nice as the new nodes are formed with 2nd node leaves growing already. Day 31 Identified an issue this morning - went back through my pictures, identified the start, looked at the day before, and noted my changes that I took notes on at that time. Went to google to diagnose a few possible hypothesis and am now testing with a treatment. (suggestions from more experienced growers welcome) This morning the issue was brown spots on the older fan leaves. Mostly just the left fan leaf. Seems to have started 2 days ago (day 29) when I changed the lights and fed her. When I fed her, I left water droplets on the leaves instead of drying them off after a short time (I had been drying them with a tissue after a wet pic. The fans were also adjusted after the lights were dropped closer as well. Hypothesis: I think the water was magnifying the light and caused light stress at the those spots. I dont think the wind of the fan had much to do with it other than they helped dry the leaves faster as noted by the water being completely gone by the time I took pictures later that night for measurements. Test: Raised my lights to a max of 350ppfd (from 385 highest reading this morning) Had to adjust fans again since they rest on my lights. Will observe looking for improvement over the next few days. ... another possibility was given to me by Guru @Roberts (thank you) as it possibly being a ph issue locking out calcium. So I thought I might test ph and then try diluted cal/mag in a spray if my soil is too low (also looked at pics and seen VERY close similarities in my pics and those) and so on that advice, I tested/calibrated my soil meter (it FINALLY calibrated for me!)I found my soil was avg of 3 readings at 5.153 (5.08,5.09,and 5.29) NOT GOOD - potentially locking out most all nutes. I weighed out about 2 cups of purified water with and added about half ml of CalMag, ph balanced the water to 6.5 at 69.7F (my research shows Calcium lockout starting at 6.3 or lower) and splashed with H2O2 - I poured most around the base and sprayed the leaves too. I made sure to use the whole solution by pouring the last of the solution in the spray bottle over the stem and stem base. EOD follow-up Found a possible calcium blockade in my ph and on my leaves (of which are now starting to curl so I placed my fans on oscillate to ensure they aren't doing more damage) --- fully documented now. otherwise measurements are now documented too. -- second node is starting to pull away from the last top so I will be looking to top again (3rd of possibly 4 total) and then HST and bind in a new spot Day 32 Doing a morning and evening check her now while I see this issue resolved. So far no sign of improvement since last night - might have gotten worse in comparison (will check pics side by side today) but I think because it's a immobile micronutrient so it should take time to stop then reverse. So in the mean time I am doing a slurry test as a 2nd test for my soil before I treat it. I took soil from 3 different spots and made sure I got some from about 4 inches deep in each spot (ensured calibrations were still good with buffer tests) 1st test is a PH meter tested directly in the soil. After using the 2 cups of 6.3 yesterday I got 3 readings today = 5.47, 5.32, and 5.5 to avg 5.43 - (yesterday's readings prior to treatment were 5.08, 5.09, and 5.29 to avg 5.153) - still far below the normal 6 to 7 for soil and the requirement of 6.3 and above for calcium to enter roots. suggesting again lockout. So while I am checking the plant conditions I also looked at the new nodes - 2nd node is starting to pull away from the first, but not quite enough to top yet - thinking I will be able to top tomorrow evening - should be able to correct the ph tonight, so I can see if there's results in that by then as well. I also set the fans to oscillate last night, so here's a video for that now. Measurements, ppfd, and vpd will be in tonight's check-up Day 32 So I started this evening by testing the run off with 2 meters, 5.7 and 5.67 - prepared 1 gallon of 7.5 ph water and splashed with H2O2 (checked with both meters) Before flushing, I documented the leaves again - still curled and look very dry but they still have some flexibility with them - they dont seem to getting any worse so the spray may have gotten enough to the leaves most affected. The new nodes and growth tips seem to be okay but not growing as fast as they were. That would still mean that the soil needs treatment before the roots begin to die off and I end up with stunted growth overall. SO I flushed the whole gallon and noted the runoff from the sides and bottom. I then tested the soil directly with 3 readings 5.95, 5.8, and 5.73 for avg 5.826 and tested the runoff water with 2 separate meters for 5.91 and 5.85 Not sure if I should feed dunk in 7.5 still or just use that number on the next feed in like 3 or 4 days. will discuss Other than that ppfd highest is 360, 350 at center, and 330 at lowest. VPD was 1.0 with temp at 74F /63% RH /33% IL Vent Growth tips could be ready to top again tomorrow night, but I would like the get the ph taken care of first. Day 33 Started the day by noticing the lower branches seem to stop turning and the next level branches seemed to have finally turned but nearly as fast as the first. (Noticed them having a start yesterday) Newer branches dont have any signs of issues. So the plan today is to make Bloom Juice for later. Feed Dunk with 100% Veg Juice at a ph of 7.3 test runoff and ppm. Top the 4 nodes and remove the lower leaves. Calcium issue or not, that was always the plan with main-linning the plant. However, because of the health issues, I dont think I am going to go past these 8 colas - rather instead I will simply stop here and do some HST to set them how I want them to grow and let her recover and finish her veg for about two or three weeks. Dunk had 300ppm of Epsom, Veg juice, in a little over 3 gallons of purified water. I had 7.4 ph and splashed with h2o2. I pushed the entire plant into the water and soaked for a few seconds. Drained by hanging the pot up for about 10 minutes and the stream started dripping instead. Checked the runoff with 2 meters 6.01 and 5.93 with 2580ppm. Then I topped all four nodes and removed the fan leaves from under my mainline. I used LST to finger press the new branches apart into the direction I plan to move them to get the nodes powering up. Next I will wait for a day to do HST on those new branches. Tonight I will simply let her rest. VPD still at 1.0 - 73F /63% RH /33% IL Vent - Lights are at 365 highest, 355 center, and 335 lowest. No need to measure for growth now as I dont plan to top anymore Day 34 Early entry to day for HST the morning after topping. So I started off the morning checking stats and health. PH levels are still low. 3 soil meter tests 5.41, 5.41, and 5.44 for an avg of 5.42 - kinda at a loss here but can only monitor now. VPD and lights are mostly the same - 74F /63% RH / 33% IL Vent - VPD not relevant today as the settings are the same and I am using HST to change the plant position. leaves are noted for future reference - all four lower fan leaves have signs of calcium deficiency but not progressing nearly as fast as the first two did, so I think my attempts via higher ph water and feed may have helped. (I know the microbes in the soil are supposed to help get past ph issues , but mine seem to not be heathy) HST used a cuticle rod from my wife's nail case and a paint stick to press the rod against the branches and smash the inside of the elbows I want to bend. LST I then cut 4 strips of garden wire at the same length, hooked the ends like candy canes and aligned them about 1/2 inch above the new node and into the soil. From the side they look level but have the leaves now facing sideways. They will turn in a day or two.
Likes
18
Share
June 7 - We ordered some new lights last week, they are 240w kingbrite samsung lm310h with uv/ir, 3000k, and meanwell drivers. We setup the new room and moved the girls into there. After a bit of LST and a watering (with nutrients) at roughly 7ph, they were ready to go under the 2 new lights and the same SF-1000 we have been using in this grow. The new room is a 12 ft enclosed trailer. I moved everything from the small tent into this. I put clear poly on the walls, floor and ceiling. I put poly on the shelf I am going to be keeping in there as well. I bought 50ft of 6mm mylar and lined the floors, roof and sides with it. I plan to get some reflective tape to seal everything and to cover the wood. I did not get much of a chance to watch temp's today as they it was later in the evening after all was said and done. The inline fan blowing in air from outside. June 8 - 9 AM i checked the plants, they were at 25.2 and 50% RH. Late through the day I had checked and we had gotten up to around 32 degrees. So I moved the inline fan to the closer vent, hooked up to that, and had the air blowing out of the trailer with the inline fan sucking it from above the lights. I then added oscillating fan and had it blowing air on the left side of the room so it would somewhat circulate once I closed the doors. I then checked at about 9pm and we were at 22 degrees. Definitely noticed a decent amount of growth already. I have the lights on a 22/2 cycle as I was worried about the heat at night time. June 9 - Some great growth from the girls, still having problems controlling the temps in the afternoon. I decided to prop the door open a bit to have a constant breeze throughout the day while I am at work. Decided to do some more LST and also a bit of defoliation. I took about 25% of the leaf's that were blocking the new growth as it was getting a bit bunched up. I was then told the leaf's are almost solar panels for them. So from now on I will be trying to just do some tucking unless needed. The leaf's I removed were most of the damaged leaf's, I am not to sure if that makes much of a difference. I gave them a watering with only water as there is a potential I am getting a bit of a nutrient buildup along with the PH problem. Or potentially the reason for the ph problem is nutrient buildup. After watering with A PH of 7 I got some run off and tested it. The smaller plant gave me a PH of about 5.5 where the bigger one is around 5.0. June 10 - Plants are looking happy and showing tons of growth. Seems to be trying to stretch outwards. Not a ton of sign of PH issues showing so potentially getting it under control. Still a bit of damage to previous leaf's but it is what it is! The last few days I have been leaving the door open a bit in order to keep the temps down. I decided to test something and turn the lights off (automatically) at 11AM and back on at 5PM so light schedule has now changed to 18/6 and it seems I may have figured out the issue. We haven't had lots of sun the last couple days so it hasn't been to hard and I have yet to know if it truly fixed the heat issue for now. (I will be looking into a ac unit as well since it typically gets to around 30-35 around here. June 11 - Pulled some of the branches back down and added a few more LST spots. Seems we have a good amount of growth from the smaller plant out of the 2 topped spots. Unfortunately it looks like I fucked up on the bigger plant and only one of the nodes seems to have new growth. I will continue to monitor that but I think I cut the node to low and also to soon. Other then that, the girls are doing great. They seem to be absolutely loving these new lights. I gave them some nutrient water today as well. roughly 3L each. They seem to be A hell of A lot more thirsty under these new lights. June 12 - The girls are doing great , they are still just doing growing away. Lots of progress everyday. I am going to be getting a go-pro so I can set-up a time-lapse for the rest of this grow. I received my new inline fan, I got A ac infinity CLOUDLINE T4 with the temperature humidity controller. I am going to be having one fan pushing fresh air in and one fan pulling out the hot air. I will be doing that tomorrow since I have to work today. June 13 - I ordered another 50ft of mylar and that showed up today. I have decided to remove the shelf and add another 3+ feet to the grow space. So today I installed more poly, mylar, the ac infinity fan. I have it set-up to pump in air if it gets to warm. I am thinking of switching it to the output that way if it gets to hot or to humid I can have that air pulled out of the trailer. Right now my other inline fan is the outtake and I just have it set on full. Overall I think everything is set-up a bit better and more accessible. I will be putting my 2x2 tent in there at the left of the doors so I can have a veg room when these 2 are in flower. I plan to have 4 in veg and 4 in flower for the next grow. Still waiting on JOTI seeds, ordered 3 weeks ago and still have not been shipped. I will be getting those going the moment they arrive. The girls seem to be happy still, did a bit more LST to try to keep everything even, mainly I'm just pulling down on the spots I already have tie wire on.
Likes
33
Share
@Titoff
Follow
Depuis la fin de la semaine 10, j’avais commencé mon rinçage après avoir observé les trichomes à l’aide de différents appareils, microscope de poche vendu dans les Growshops, microscope à fixer sur son smartphone ou encore les lentilles macro de type Apexel lens 2 en 1.... Les lentilles macro m’ont permis de voir de manières assez aisées que ceux-ci étaient pour la plus pars laiteux, j’avais donc pensé que c’était le moment pour moi, d’entreprendre ma période de rinçage. J’avais lu sur différents sites qu’il fallait effectuer 2 semaines de rinçages afin d’éliminé tous trace de nutriments et d’avoir un weed savoureuse. Je pensais donc que le timing était bon et que mes 2 semaines supplémentaires me donneraient les 15 à 20% de trichomes ambrés mais j’arrive à la fin de la première semaine de rinçage et très peu d’ambré. J’ai donc ce weekend redonné un peu d’engrais, car les feuilles sont en pleines sénescences et la maturation des trichomes demande encore un peu de temps. Un peu perdu, pour être honnête, le contrôle de ce jour montre un stress plutôt bénéfique pour les filles qui vont être à nouveaux rincées. Afin de m’aider au mieux, j’ai commandé l’appareil Higrade analyseur de cannabis que je recevrais lundi, je vous donnerais donc plus de détails par la suite mais cet appareil est sensé nous donné de précieuses données quand coupé, taux de THC, carence, maladie bref un gadget qui promet de belle prouesse à voir donc. Cependant après plusieurs recherches, j’ai appris que l’on commençait son rinçage seulement quand les trichomes devenaient ambrés et après 10 jours de rinçages et après on coupe....
Likes
23
Share
Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme. Rabattcode für den BIOTABS-Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/ GDBT420, damit erhalten Sie 15 Prozent
Likes
40
Share
@Chubbs
Follow
420Fastbuds Apricot Auto/Week 3 What up grow fam. Weekly update for these stunning girls. Up to this point they've been growing picture perfect . Not really doing anything special besides still feeding nutes every other watering 500ml. I'll double the feed this week taking it to 1000ml/1 liter per every other day. Not seeing any burn signs from introducing nutes so will keep that the same strength. All in all Happy Growing
Likes
13
Share
Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zéolite 3gr granulé Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de bière 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mélasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrédients (sauf la mélasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mélasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe à air et faire oxygéné le mélange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mélasse après 12h le début de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mélasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mélange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! j’y ai incorporé 7litre de mélange La veille j’ai préparé le pot à l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphère, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complément alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et écologique très complet. D'une grande qualité nutritive, elle apporte à vos plantes une quantité de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minéraux, acides aminés, vitamines, chlorophylle et protéine. Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31%
• Matière organique 33%
• Matière sèche 75%
• C/N : 17
• PH : 7,2
• Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique
• Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%
• Potassium (K20) : 1,18%
• Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%
• Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition :
• Matière sèche : 96,8%
• Matière organique : 91,5%
• N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%
• P total : 2%
• K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : 
• Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%
• Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%
• Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons. La levure stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère Composition : • Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante présentant de nombreuses propriétés. Particulièrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliée idéale pour les périodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira également comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grâce aux alcaloïdes, aux allantoïnes et jusqu'à 30% de protéine ! 100% déjection de vers de ténébrions.
Très riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matière directement composté par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matières végétales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dégradation de litière forestière. Les bactéries et autres champignons obtenus grâce au système digestif de nos vers, permettent la dégradation accélérée des éléments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des éléments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, à la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement varié de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter. Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. Très équilibré, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblé seul ou en complément de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL • rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, Magnésium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE • Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. • Produit riche en éléments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. • Régularité de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sénescence. Analyse chimique : • NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 • N-Azote 0.1% • P205-Phosphore 18,6% • K2O-Potasse 16,5% • CaO-Calcium 11,7% • MgO-Magnésium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisée Stimule la vie du sol et la végétation. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre
ascophyllum nodosum
- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur développement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - Résistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumière mieux captée - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - Développement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-éléments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - Idéal en épandage et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Important : notre Kelp est un goémon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la même famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement à plus de 50 mètres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la Norvège.
Likes
9
Share
@Roberts
Follow
Tangerine Band is doing well. She had to be hst again today. She also got a solution change. She should be ready for the final push to finish. Thank you Exotic Seeds, Spider Farmer, and Athena nutrition. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.
Likes
3
Share
@Ghost17
Follow
Updating two days early but wicked happy with the progress so far. Starting to understand the strain and what it likes to be fed so just trying to adapt to it and really lock in on a smooth feeding schedule. Have been against pruning in the past but couldn't resist attempting "Nebulas Manifold" and finally topped after the 6th node finally developed this morning. Topped on the 3rd node with leaving a stump for connection and trimmed the remaining nodes below. Was pretty surprised at how much they were reaching when I check in on them tonight but happy to see they're still crankin. Time to wait for the 4th node and top again. As always, any questions, comments or suggestions are always welcome! Thanks!
Likes
17
Share
@Nicogreen
Follow
Sindsygt godt ramt af mig ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ 0.1 minus grader i nat. I morges 6.8 grader. kl 7dansk tid. Og kl Ca 13. 39.8 grader. Lige nu kl 1645 dansk tid. 23.4. 😉