The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Hi, everyone 👋 a few days ago I was given a TS1000 lamp by Mars Hydro for grow purposes....this is the perfect opportunity to make and test a Bubble Bucket. I never had one and always wanted to try one out 😎 i had half the stuff needed to build a Bubbler and at this point i"m only lacking a exhaust fan with filter. As the TS1000 from Mars Hydro brings a powerful 150 Watt on board and 2,3umol/J đŸ’ȘđŸ’ȘđŸ’Ș I plan to start with two plants, but because my excellent Mars Hydro grow tent is a 60 x 60 cm (2'x2') I am not able to fit in two Bubblers... so i decided to grow the Amnesia CBD Auto by Dinafem in a bubbler and Blue Cheese Auto(when its sprouts :) in traditional method in soil (for comparison reasons). If the DWC will work really well and there only place for one plant i will move the Blue Cheese Auto to a different tent... if not they will grow together. As the Dinafem seed bank is no longer there the seeds i got are a couple years old and i used 4 seeds to sprout one seedling of Amnesia CBD Auto. Let's start of this babies and see them flourish under the my new awesome Mars Hydro TS1000 lamp. All the best to my fellow grower, keep it growing friends đŸ’Ș😍
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@evAq22
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08.04.2025 Trimmed the cover crop
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Well these seeds are a bit unstable I think. 4 of the 6 were Hermie, so I don't know if it was the exotic light shedule or if this strain needs more work? anyway I got 2 that are all girl and I think I'm gonna pull the last Hermie and work the 2. on a brighter note o got 110 gallons of free water. thank you mother nature see the video. gonna keep on keeping on with the last 2 hate to lose the yield of 4 plants but it is what it is. 😭
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end off heat stress re-arrangement of room ____________________________________________ light- and watering schedule: see photos now: 12 plants 2 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 2 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 1 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup + strategy: 18 seeds 3 x Auto Orange Bud (early80's) 3 x Haze Berry Automatic (2018) 3 x Auto Euforia (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > Fast Butts (late 80's) 2 x Strawberry Pie Auto 1 x Gorilla-Cookies Auto (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud setup: 18 x gronest 2 liter 60 cm x 120 cm x 180 cm (2 x 4) growtent 4 l humidifier 25 watt axial fan 15 watt clip fan ro-filter bath room with a 50 watts room fan (-> carbon filter not necessary) ...and a lot of odds and ends. grow strategy: max yield by stressing with: 1. tiny shoes (2 l fabric pots standing on 3 plastic rings (4 cm) for max oxygen) 2. tiny growspace (18plants on 0.72 sqm) 3. many strains (8 strains) 4. annoying neighbourhood (mixing old - i.e. bubblegum (late 80's) - with young- i.e. hazeberry (2018) - genetics) 5. no stress by light or food or water 6. unintentionally too much food plus: - no lst - no hst - just leaf tucking - positioning bigger strains (euphoria, orange bud, haze berry) or just bigger phenos on less intense light spots (end of tent + edges) - music-rotation: 24 hrs reggae (for sativas) - 24 hrs classicals (because it's scientifically proofed) - 24 hrs traditionals from the hindukush region (for the indicas) max efficiency (min electricity - max yield): - light: 23 h on - 1 h off - keeping the distance of 18" (45 cm) and dimming to the right par (lux) - value depending on growing stages (see sheet: beginning 185 par ( 10000 lux/100 watt )/end 340 par ( 18000 lux/175 watt )) => ends up in approx. 170 watts in average over max 15 weeks temperatur management: - using approx. max. half of what the lamp can do keeps temperature low: my tsl 2000 is pulling max. 360 watts of the wall - i need only 175 watts, results in less temperature than using a 175 watts lamp - adjusting the temperature by using a humidifier outside of tent: blown in humidity is soaking degrees and is transported out by fan, works much better than doing the same with pure air summer extreme: no humidifier: 36°C / 35 rh - with humidifier: 29°C / 65 rh works for 1-2 weeks of real hot summer days, no mould, no signs of stress in two summers germination: seeding in waterglass spraying "basic"-water: ro-water (22 ppm) + calmag to 180 ppm every 4 - 8 hours until sprouted man versus fungus gnat: 5 days before seeding i'm running the tent with "basic"-watered pots as if there were plants inside - led on, fans on, humidifier on. Fungus gnats coming with the soil might take the chance to come out now for breeding. i'm waiting with a 9 mm rifle. in the past i found 6 gnats in 2 of 8 x 50 l biobizz lightmix bags coming out of the soil. i could eliminate every single gnat successfully ;) rotating harvest: the little ones will be harvested completely when ready. at this point only the top branches of the big ones will be cut...and the new (basic-watered) pots of the new grow will move into the tent. 2-3 weeks later the secod half of the big ones will be cut and the second half of the new grow will move in... nutes: biobizz / soil: biobizz lightmix bloom,grow,topmax,activera,algamic + aminopower instead of bio heaven (too expensive) individual feeding schedule/once a week: veg: 200 - 600 ppm bloom: 600 - 900 ppm water: ro-water with: veg: 100-150 ppm calmag bloom: 150 ppm calmag
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So the grow cycle was pretty easy. I work away from home and I sometimes have to leave for 4 days in a row. Before I'd leave for the four days I'd just add 4-6 cups of RO water with some Cal-Mag. When I can back she was always bigger and didn't have any problems. I was lazy this time and never checked the PH of the water. This strain is pretty resilient so props to sweet seeds. I decided not to LST this plant, it was a little taller than I wanted but grew in a nice shape. I still cant believe how purple this strain is. I started to get foxtailing on the top bud not sure what would cause that. Once again sorry for the lack of pictures. I'll let you know the smoke report later.
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@Xabii
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Both NL now have a light Kalium/Potassium deficiency so I removed some solution, added water and Yara Kristalon Orange PH 5.8 EC 1550. Removed the partial Orion harvest from the drying tent and put it in a Grove Bag (check the updated harvest of Ori) Pictures were taken right before harvest on 08.12.23
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So we are in the middle of week 10 and I feel pretty comfortable feeding them now, pretty much the same until next week when I give more Top Max. I've seen much more explosive growth on other diaries but I have to say I'm pretty proud so far for my first attempt. Staring at those fresh furry little balls of life is surreal, getting to this point is great, but it's far from over. So I kept the same feeding this week, still adding the Great White with mycorrhizae (and like 40+ other microbes) once a week as it says per directions. The BioBizz products are easy to use and hold up well, so I'm feeling better about going with them even though I had some issues at the beginning (all my fault most likely). I can dial in the feeding mixture PPM now first try to where I want it, so far 700ppm of a gallon every 2 days has been working out. I feel like at the start I was over watering because people say water everyday in coco, well that seems to be for the coco bricks. I am using FoxFarm Bush Doctor Coco Loco (long ass title just for some coco coir) with additional perlite and it has a lot more holding capacity than just normal bricked coco coir. For checking on when it needs water I still use the method of digging into the topsoil an inch and weighing the pots by hand. Also I've noticed if they are pretty tired looking after lights on then I'll water. Like everyone said, consistent fertigation has been the hardest part as a beginner. First week I'm posting a video, the fan can't oscillate so I turn it to the right, left, and keep it center as well as raise and lower it so there is decent airflow. I wouldn't say it's optimal but it works for now. I've raised the lights about 3 inches just so the top colas don't get burnt, I've also found the sweet spot on the potentiometer (power knob) where I can get maximum power without raising the temperature above 77f, which it quickly goes above 80f if I exceed it. I've done minor defoliation before each feeding (so like every 2 or 3 days), mostly just clearing the leaves from above while keeping the important sugar leaves and some fan leaves, even though most the large fan leaves have long died/turned. If you watch the first video I've posted you'll notice an injury on her, unfortunately I didn' I feel like I've failed on the C99 X Blueberry Auto, in fact I took it out of the title. I definitely kept it in nutrient lock even after repeated flushings, it seems to have grown a little and even looks like it's accepted its new life as a stunted sideshow geek never thinking of being the in the spotlight under my grow tent. On the plus side, the two normal Desert Lemon photo's look great, even if one is starting to look leggy. They haven't shown their sexes but it looks like they soon will, because frankly I don't have enough room and would like the leggy one to be gone. The two other shortest plants looks nice and green, shortest being the Black Sugar photo that I did some minor LST with tent stakes - and the very beautiful Gelat.OG photo that is so symmetrical it makes me want to put her in the spotlight (aka position 1 which I give most room/light priority too). Okay so that's it for this week folks, thanks for checking in and please comment or critique on my first grow! Any questions also welcome. -AthanasGrow
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She had clean up few days ago and now ready to start pumping those nuggets smeels nice and super frosty
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@BigDaddyK
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Day 43 - Tuesday 27/11/18 - changed the reservoir with fresh solution , getting a few mottled under leaves that suggest cal mag issue , or possibly ph , but I have double checked both of these so fingers crossed , I measured her today with my metre ruler and she is 73 cm tall , looks very bushy , I took a light on pic with my iPhone , and made you a little video 😜 I should just add , there are 3 plants in this picture , look back to week 5 and you will see , the lemon is very bushy , gorilla is tallest , Tangie seems to be fastest đŸ‘ïž I have also changed the temperature and humidity slightly. Day 44 - Wednesday - I have included the ruler for scale today, i see so many good pictures on here but the size can be questionable, so also proof i own a 1m ruler...lol , topped up with about 1.5 litres of water, EC was ok and ph perfect. If there are any pictures you would like to see please comment , with a little description. Day 45 - Thursday - I dont know what happened yesterday but she had drunk so much water ( added 3 litres + ) and needed 10 ml of A+B , Day 46 - Friday - Added 12 ml A+B and about 3 litres of water, she is in her super feeding stage, this week she has been devouring everything, some of the leaves I think are showing signs of under feeding but I really think its the strain on the plant as she tries to buildit is really tempting to up the nutrients but once you burn it, its never the same.I made you a video, enjoy. Day 47 - Saturday - Added 3 litres of water , 12 ml A+B ( I mix it 6 at a time in 20 ml of water syringe ) Day ( insert generic day here ) - JOKE , Day 48 Sunday - still eating and drinking like a monster, i measured her at 89 cm today, added 3 litres of water ,12 ml of A+B DRAMA ALERT - DRAMA ALERT Day 49 - Monday - added 10 ml Of A+B and 3 litres of water, came home later an found the electric had tripped, usually this is just a case of flipping the switch, but this time it kept on tripping, so i went through the painstaking unplugging of everything, and had literally unplugged every fucking thing , when i finally ( at my wits en after 2 hrs ) found the fucking culprit,excuse my language but i find that cursing really does help, i think its a middle age thing,and it was.............. A SIX INCH FAN , you know the little clip on one. anyway i added a couple of tAnGiEmAtIc PICS TODAY TO MAKE ME FEEL BETTER ... A WORD OF ADVICE IN DWC SYSTEMS, DO NOT HAVE MULTI PLUG EXTENSIONS ON THE FLOOR, CABLE TIE THEM TO THE SIDES OR THE TOP, THIS WILL PREVENT ACCIDENTAL WATER SPLASH!!
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Nous sommes à la 6Úme semaines tout ce passe bien jusqu'à présent. Les princesses sont trop lourdes ceci dit ajout d'un filet pour soutenir tout ça. Fin semaine6 diminution des doses pour ajouter bloombastic a 0,1/L.
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Very easy first grow very happy with results best weed I ever smoked and I can only get better from here so I'm excited to keep seeing more and more progress
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@Dgessy
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La Petite fille a atteint sont potentiel en taille, maintenant j'attends le mĂ»rissement des tĂȘtes 👍😊 Le ratio fleurs/feuilles est super !!! De beaux calices et pas beaucoup de feuilles 😊 Le soleil est toujours au rendez-vous, rarement il fait autant beau dans ma rĂ©gion Ă  cette pĂ©riode de l'annĂ©e.
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@SaucePan
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Topped and taking off... she looks healthy.. I’m excited to see where she takes me
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10/10/22 début de légumes pour la Gorilla sherbet 1,3 et 4. Cette plante ce développe vite, vers la fin de semaine les pistils sont apparus.
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been a great week for cookies shes turning into a nice Bush did some more defoliation and lst removed some lower nodes tried opening her up as much as possible will be dropping silicon and adding buddy next week thanks for reading happy growing guys
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@Lazuli
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I insanly defoliated and cut branches away even mid flower to get airflow going
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Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zĂ©olite 3gr granulĂ© Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de biĂšre 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mĂ©lasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrĂ©dients (sauf la mĂ©lasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mĂ©lasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe Ă  air et faire oxygĂ©nĂ© le mĂ©lange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mĂ©lasse aprĂšs 12h le dĂ©but de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mĂ©lasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mĂ©lange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! j’y ai incorporĂ© 7litre de mĂ©lange La veille j’ai prĂ©parĂ© le pot Ă  l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphĂšre, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactĂ©rie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphĂšre en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sĂ©crĂ©tant des mĂ©tabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sĂ©crĂ©tant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bĂ©nĂ©fiques pour la nutrition et la santĂ© des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complĂ©ment alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et Ă©cologique trĂšs complet. D'une grande qualitĂ© nutritive, elle apporte Ă  vos plantes une quantitĂ© de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minĂ©raux, acides aminĂ©s, vitamines, chlorophylle et protĂ©ine. Le charbon vĂ©gĂ©tal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rĂŽle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minĂ©rale. Ce pourquoi il est idĂ©al pour activer un sol et pour les thĂ©s de compost oxygĂ©nĂ©s. Le charbon vĂ©gĂ©tal amĂ©liore la diffusion et la disponibilitĂ© des Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au dĂ©veloppement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut ĂȘtre introduit dans une grande variĂ©tĂ© de sols. Il est particuliĂšrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacitĂ© d’amendement, le charbon vĂ©gĂ©tal est enrichi et biologiquement activĂ© avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : ‱ Charbon vĂ©gĂ©tal actif 31%‹‱ MatiĂšre organique 33%‹‱ MatiĂšre sĂšche 75%‹‱ C/N : 17‹‱ PH : 7,2‹‱ Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique‹‱ Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%‹‱ Potassium (K20) : 1,18%‹‱ Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%‹‱ MagnĂ©sium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrĂ©dient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minĂ©raux, il est qualifiĂ© « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zĂ©olithes sont des roches cristallines, prĂ©sentant des capacitĂ©s d'adsorption particuliĂšrement importantes vis Ă  vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrĂȘmement poreuses comme les charbons activĂ©s et elles peuvent ĂȘtre chargĂ©es Ă©lectriquement pour opĂ©rer comme des Ă©changeurs d'ions. La zĂ©olithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. UtilisĂ© dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues annĂ©es dĂ©jĂ , ce minerai aux propriĂ©tĂ©s filtrantes particuliĂšres commence Ă  se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privĂ©e, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrĂ©ment, de la rĂ©cupĂ©ration des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaĂŻs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - GrĂące Ă  leur propriĂ©tĂ© hydrophile, les zĂ©olithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'Ă  30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en prĂ©sence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de dĂ©shydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zĂ©olithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomĂ©rant). Cette propriĂ©tĂ© est trĂšs apprĂ©ciĂ©e dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zĂ©olithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irrĂ©versible, elles se comportent comme une rĂ©serve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zĂ©olithes permettent ainsi de rĂ©duire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'Ă  35 %. - Une zĂ©olithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les Ă©lĂ©ments minĂ©raux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relĂąche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du vĂ©gĂ©tal. - La capacitĂ© d'adsorption et l'Ă©norme rapport surface/volume des zĂ©olithes, vont permettre Ă  la fois la rĂ©tention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygĂ©nation au voisinage du systĂšme racinaire. Les zĂ©olithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au dĂ©veloppement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est rĂ©duit de 20 Ă  25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbĂ©s par la zĂ©olithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et Ă  l'Ă©vaporation. Composition minĂ©ralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec prĂ©paration microbienne Ă  base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulĂ©s (1 – 1,6 mm) Ă  base de rhizobactĂ©ries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore Ă  partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphĂšre par une flore bĂ©nĂ©fique. Composition :‹‱ MatiĂšre sĂšche : 96,8%‹‱ MatiĂšre organique : 91,5%‹‱ N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%‹‱ P total : 2%‹‱ K total : 1,7% Micro-granulĂ©s : ‹‱ Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%‹‱ Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%‹‱ Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de biĂšre est une matiĂšre vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thĂ©s de compost oxygĂ©nĂ©s notamment conseillĂ© pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons. La levure stimule la vie des sols Ă©galement Ă  l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espĂšce micro-bactĂ©rienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-Ă©lĂ©ments et diverse vitamines. Composition : ‱ 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), ‱ 2,3% (P205) ‱ 1,6% (K20) ‱ 35% de MO ‱ C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivĂ©es spĂ©cifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivĂ©e. Se connecte efficacement au systĂšme racinaire et forme un vaste rĂ©seau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delĂ  de la rhizosphĂšre Composition : ‱ Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante prĂ©sentant de nombreuses propriĂ©tĂ©s. ParticuliĂšrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliĂ©e idĂ©ale pour les pĂ©riodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira Ă©galement comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grĂące aux alcaloĂŻdes, aux allantoĂŻnes et jusqu'Ă  30% de protĂ©ine ! 100% dĂ©jection de vers de tĂ©nĂ©brions.‹TrĂšs riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matiĂšre directement compostĂ© par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matiĂšres vĂ©gĂ©tales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dĂ©gradation de litiĂšre forestiĂšre. Les bactĂ©ries et autres champignons obtenus grĂące au systĂšme digestif de nos vers, permettent la dĂ©gradation accĂ©lĂ©rĂ©e des Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des Ă©lĂ©ments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, Ă  la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement variĂ© de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter. Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. TrĂšs Ă©quilibrĂ©, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblĂ© seul ou en complĂ©ment de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL ‱ rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, MagnĂ©sium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE ‱ Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. ‱ Produit riche en Ă©lĂ©ments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. ‱ RĂ©gularitĂ© de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sĂ©nescence. Analyse chimique : ‱ NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 ‱ N-Azote 0.1% ‱ P205-Phosphore 18,6% ‱ K2O-Potasse 16,5% ‱ CaO-Calcium 11,7% ‱ MgO-MagnĂ©sium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisĂ©e Stimule la vie du sol et la vĂ©gĂ©tation. Composition : ‱ 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), ‱ 2,3% (P205) ‱ 1,6% (K20) ‱ 35% de MO ‱ C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre‹ascophyllum nodosum‹- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur dĂ©veloppement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - RĂ©sistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumiĂšre mieux captĂ©e - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - DĂ©veloppement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-Ă©lĂ©ments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - IdĂ©al en Ă©pandage et pour les thĂ©s de compost oxygĂ©nĂ©s. Important : notre Kelp est un goĂ©mon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la mĂȘme famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement Ă  plus de 50 mĂštres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la NorvĂšge.
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This week went very well! One will be getting cut an hung to dry while the rest finish up with one more week of flush ! These ladies are smelling so lovely I hope you all enjoy! Stay tuned for next week! Cheers đŸ˜€đŸ’šđŸ’šđŸ’šđŸ’šđŸ’š