- Day 62 and the 4 of the mephs are with some amber crystals already ( Stomper#1,#2 & GWK#1,#2), - Stomper #3 (D62) and SODK (D57) are a few weeks behind. - Stomper and GWK produced a light>medium bud structure (tap water only🚿) with full of crystals 💎 (pretty cool for an auto with little effort), not yielders (soil organic) thought but with buds to make diamond rings. - SODK looking more like a yielder from these 3 strains with more compact buds and indica structure. - Humidity a little higher than the optimum this week, except Stomper#3 & SODK we didn't water the plants too much and we had some dry periods in the medium. - Made a final defoliation before harvest (4), we will dry the buds in a dry machine (as the Root66 dairy 👀) and make the rest trimming before curing. 🔕 Smells were super stealth until now, no problem at all and the buds looking and smelling dense when touching and checking them. ⚠️ Next update --> next week with the first part of the meph harvest 🤯.

Here we grow! These are clones of Mandarin Cookies, rooted in peat plugs, under low light T5 Sunblaster 24w, inside a dome, keeping humidity levels high.

Vyzerajú pripravené na kvet🤪ešte 1 týždeň ,myslím🤔🤔

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Woche 16 – Vegetation 🌿 | Der letzte Tag vor dem Flip Diese Woche stand ganz im Zeichen der Vorbereitung. Nach dem großen Entlauben letzte Woche durfte sich die Laughing Buddha erst einmal erholen – und genau das hat sie eindrucksvoll getan. Innerhalb weniger Tage hat sie das gesamte Blätterdach wieder geschlossen und dabei ordentlich Höhe gemacht. Im Zeitraffer sieht man besonders gut, wie gleichmäßig sich das SCROG füllt. Die vielen Triebe arbeiten inzwischen als eine einzige, geschlossene Krone – genau das Ziel, das ich von Anfang an verfolgt habe. Auch unter dem Blätterdach hat sich die Arbeit gelohnt. Das kräftige Lollipopping sorgt für eine offene Struktur und einen sauberen Luftstrom. Jetzt kann die Pflanze ihre Energie auf die zukünftigen Colas konzentrieren, anstatt kleine, schattige Triebe zu versorgen. Diese Woche habe ich außerdem begonnen, meine neue Sensortechnik intensiver zu nutzen. Besonders spannend ist die Bodenfeuchte: Die Sensoren zeigen, dass der äußere Wurzelbereich inzwischen deutlich mehr Wasser verbraucht als der Bereich direkt am Stamm. Deshalb teste ich aktuell kleinere, dafür häufigere Wassergaben, um die Bodenfeuchtigkeit möglichst konstant zu halten und den Mikroorganismen optimale Bedingungen zu bieten. Das Dachbodenklima bleibt weiterhin die größte Herausforderung. An warmen Nachmittagen kämpft die Klimaanlage gegen die Sommerhitze, während der Luftbefeuchter versucht, die Luftfeuchtigkeit stabil zu halten. Trotzdem bleibt das Klima insgesamt noch in einem guten Bereich und die Pflanze zeigt keinerlei Anzeichen von Stress. Morgen ist es endlich soweit: Der Wechsel auf 12/12. 🌸 Nach über vier Monaten Vegetationszeit beginnt nun die Blütephase. Das Netz ist gefüllt, die Pflanze ist gesund und kräftig – jetzt darf sie zeigen, was in ihr steckt. Der kommende Stretch wird entscheiden, wie sich die rund 80 Triebspitzen entwickeln und ob der Plan aufgeht. Ich freue mich riesig auf die nächsten Wochen. Jetzt wird aus einem grünen Teppich hoffentlich bald ein Meer aus Blüten. 🍀💚 ⸻ Vielen Dank an alle, die jede Woche vorbeischauen, kommentieren und mich auf dieser Reise begleiten. Euer Feedback motiviert mich jedes Mal aufs Neue. Jetzt beginnt der spannendste Teil des Grows! 😎🌿

Plant seems to be growing well, she’s has some nice fans. I’ll be transplanting some time next week. Topped her this week too.

I have moved to new pots two of the plants that already start Blooming. hope they do not stress to much. Also have applied bio neem for plague protección.

Week 6 of my 4th grow autoflowers dry nutrients were very useful and the boost to flower made these my tallest and healthiest plants great PH and 81’ with three big external fans and and two in my tent great VPD. Plants were gently lollipoped and LST worked I bent trunk on main and I used everything on Tuesday first silica then cal mag, Mychorysia granular, molasses, PH booster Fox Farm , regular 10/10/10 liquid nutrients just a smidge, and rain water 775 ppm 6.5 PH. I soaked them about an hour set them on grills for 10 minutes to drain excell then returned to tent. Heavy and I mean might wait four days for next watering ⭐️👍

Hi everyone, had some slight troubles this week. I had my light too high and the thc bomb stretched to quick and fell over when I watered her 😫. I Propped her up then added more soil around the stem, she seems to be ok now. Also been having trouble with night time temperature dropping to 55f so I’ve brought a tube heater and thermostat this has helped keep it at 64.5 F. As you can see from the pics the auto bomb seems to have some defects with her leafs, not sure what’s wrong but it does not seem to be effecting her at all. Day 13 i noticed the edges of the leafs on the thc bomb started to curl up slightly, don’t know why. I lifted the light slight coz I thought it might be heat stress. Apart from all that I am still fine tuning my set up and learning loads along the way. Really happy with how my girls are coming along. 🍁🍁

✌️👨‍🚀🍊 C'est partis pour la floraison ! Mes lemon orange se développe excessivement bien, je croise les doigts pour que ça continue en espérant avoir de gros bourgeons savoureux dans 2 mois 🤞🍊 J'ai ajouté environ 25gr de poudre BioBloom par pot de 8L soit environ 3gr/L. J'arrose chaque pot avec environ 1.5L tout les 5 jours. J'ajoute du biohenhanceur 1 fois sur 2 Intensité de la FC3000: 90% Ventilation : 2 ventilateur oscillant ( ON 12/24H) + Extracteur pouces mars hydro power : 2/10 (24h/24h) 👋👨‍🚀🍊 Venez me voir sur instagram ! 🤩 https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/

Ewerything works and im so bananas right now and broud of those ladys that comment will be, Start u'r own project and dont race becouse somebody may have 20+year of more info and they get moster no epic size planta but thats the goal be like pro at this lifetime. Aint do any modification only extra bag of co2 and wery mild start nutriments so stay in tune!

* 20/24 lights (4h/day rest) for 3 days.after that we continued with 24/24. * Add some extra advanced formulations from this week. ⚠️ Stay tuned 👇 🗓️🔜 week 7 --> we'll make a review to the progress of the different strains inside the tent with photos and vids.

11/2/24 - Start of Week 9 11/5/24 - Swapping out Bulky B for Full Tilt. The fruity smell is starting to come out but "fruity" as in it smells like a real fruit. -2ml Cal-Mag -1.5g B1 -1.5g B2 -2g Full Tilt in 1 gallon water

at last we are in harvest week. im happy at all it was a good experience. my dry and cure style is this: 4 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 4 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. buds are dense and frosty but very little in size! i had some mistakes and problems with this grow so i admit i wasted them . lesson from this grow : grow autos far from fems and always give them 20 hours or more light per day to get good weight in little time.

Please stop stretching 🙆‍♀️

cant be happier with the results tbh!!!

Week 15 (5-5 to 11-5) 5-5 Temps: 18.5 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 49% to 60% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 6-5 Temps: 18.2 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 51% to 61% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 7-5 Temps: 18.8 to 23.9 degrees Humidity: 51% to 62% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 8-5 Temps: 18.8 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 48% to 61% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 9-5 Temps: 19.1 to 24.1 degrees Humidity: 51% to 60% Today i found a banana in the #2, i removed it, and hope i wont find any more.. Installed a new carbon filter, exhaust fan set from 4 to 3. 10-5 Temps: 17.5 to 24.5 degrees Humidity: 46% to 57% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 11-5 Temps: 19 to 25.2 degrees Humidity: 46% to 55% Watering #1: 1000 ml. #2: 500 ml. EC: 0.4 Exhaust fan set from 3 to 4.