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Still on point. Starting to get things dialed in after a big new move. Started 2 more lemon Zkittles 2 Cinderella Jacks and 2 more Think Different. Love DUTCH Passion! Pots are full of lime, earthworm castings (Lots) feather meal fish meal phosphorus... starting to smell. A buddy grew lemon skittles (Kix) and does it stink. Love it.
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Germination date 🌰 10/03/2021 Day 71 🌱 18/05/2021 Strain 🍁 Purple Matcha, Humboldt seed bank Nutrients 💉 Advanced nutrients PH perfect sensi grow A+B (veg) PH perfect sensi bloom A+b (flower) B-52 (through veg until week2 of flower) Voodoo juice (🖕🏻) Tarantula (🖕🏻) Piranha (🖕🏻) Sensizym (all the way through) Rhino skin (🖕🏻) add first leave for an hour Big bud coco (week2+ of flower Bud xfactor (🖕🏻) Nirvana (🖕🏻) Bud igniter (first 2weeks of flower) Overdrive (last 2weeks of flower) Flawless finish (flush week) RockHoldings Rockresinator(week2+ of flower) Vitalink calmag Set Up ⛺ amazon special 1.2m x1.2m 💡 spiderfarmer sf4000 📤📥 AC infinity 6inch 💧 10lt dehumidifier Notes🗒️✏️ Final week of full nutrients done, will start to lower e.c this week and add overdrive. Apart from the slighty burnt hairs she looks 👀 and smells 👃 amazing. It smells alot like fruit loops the cereal, very sweet. Buds aren't massive on this strain but their rock solid and beautiful to look at. I can see this being a easy strain to chop up when its done and I cant wait to do it again. %100 recomend this but not for a newbie and if you struggle with over heating 27+. Will do this in the winter to gets it full potential. Thanks for following and liking means alot ❤️👍🏻 Sorry for the shit pics this week, phones dying slowly. Took some more and deleted the rest. New phone ordered Follow PharmaZ his account is bad ass and very handy for tips and tricks. Worth a follow guys and girls 🍑 Stay turned and happy growing fam ❤️🍁🌱👍🏻 New video ❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️ cant wait to bury my head in this strain when its done
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@Ashbash
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So just waiting for the soil to dry out on this one. Will post a harvest when it happens. Surprised i havent pulled it out yet TBH haha. Accidentally gave water with lots of nutes..........watered the wrong plant. So it got overwatered and overfed. But as its organic im not too concerned. Might be a bit rough to smoke but itll be mine!!
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"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
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@Omisan
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OOOOOH at this time i love all of you, growmie 😍 200gr of pure happiness, never before! 🙌 Buds are compact like rock, shine like diamond...it's unbelivable, looks perfect! At last, mold take me about 20g of buds 😩 But it is ok, the jar is overfull and i'm so happy XD Now let's wait for the right taste......for now is greatful! 😜 Thanks to Dutch Passion for this opportunity, i'm really proud!! 🙏 Thanks to all of you growmie, for your support 🙏 to the next adventure!
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Hi! This week, thank Jah, there was no power outage, so everything was growing well. At the beginning of next week I will switch the light schedule to 12/12. Glory to Ukraine! 🇺🇦
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Week 5 of veg. Swapped the plates for an alfalfa cover crop and put up a trellis. The London pound Cake and Purple Shah are moving right along. The blueberry muffins are looking good at day 14. Probiotic growing practices take a lot of stress out of growing. No need for ph up or down. The soil balances itself so you get to see a more natural expression of the plant than you’d get with synthetics. You will see plant health change as the soil increases its biodiversity. When the soil is populated with lab bacteria you can completely saturate the roots in still water without root rot or drooping it is almost impossible to over water unless your soil isn’t populated enough with the lactobacillus. Very easy fast pace growing.
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No food until I figure out what this leaf curl is. A couple of weeks left I'm thinking so flush week after. Flushed this week as I thought the curl was salt however still happening :(
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The plants are looking absolutely gorgeous, both phenos, very happy with the performance of haze berry, amazing tropical and fruity smells every time I grow haze berry, I just cannot wait to see this ladies finish up and taste those buds 😍🤤🤤
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@Drawer
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Removed some buds that weren't getting any light, I ran into some issues regarding mold and that is most likely due to the fact that the RH % of my tent goes up to 70/80% at night. I've removed all mold I could see (2 branches) and I am keeping a close eye on them, I've placed a new tower fan and another small adjustable fan in the tent for more airflow, my dehumidifier is coming in 2 weeks (around the time this grow is finished..)
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Another week closer.... This grow went really well, we are at 43 days budding only have about 15 to 20 more days to go. Both the Gorilla Glue #4 and the Shiskaberry grew without any problems, Great genetics.. All 3 of the Shiskaberrys were the same and you would swear they came from a clone but no from seed and grew like twins..... Not much else to say. Until next week, smoke a fatty, help out your fellow grower.
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@Antarctic
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Status: Mid-Flower (Week 7 of Flowering) Water & Feeding: The girls are extremely thirsty, drinking between 1 to 3 liters of fresh water daily per bucket. Metabolism is at its peak. Nutrient Stats: Maintaining a stable pH of 5.8. The concentration (PPM) is hovering around 900–1000, occasionally spiking slightly higher as they feed. Boosters: Heavily utilizing PK boosters to ensure maximum bud density and weight. Climate Management: Temperatures during this week averaged around 28°C, with occasional peaks hitting 30°C. Humidity is strictly managed by a heavy-duty 50L dehumidifier to prevent any moisture issues. Grower’s Note: The buds are noticeably solidifying. The Church and Wonder Pie are stacking weight, and the frost is becoming intense.
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OK. Now it's getting tough. I actually did not think it was going toever be real ' work '.... but good gravy... this is hard on my new titanium knee!
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I’ll be most definitely harvesting these next week! I will continue with water from now until they are ripe and ready! They are absolutely smelling like a cake and candy like a lime doughnuts with marshmallow toppings like a whole sweet shop! Like I dipped my head in a pic and mix bucket, like Im wreck it Ralph and I’ve crashed into candyland! Makes my mouth dribble! The buds are starting to swell too so thinking next 7 days I’ll be ready! Next upload will be harvest hope you like buddies! I’ll be hang drying this time! As I’ll have space and a tent to do it in as before I didn’t and used the brown bag method! But I can maintain between 14c - 18c with a humidity of 42 percent! So I’ll hang dry this time! Any suggestions?? Let me know! I’ll be putting 2 fans on them for air circulation and a air vent only sucking out as it will draw air in on its own and keep the humidity lower in the tent while drying!
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@GRow_M8s
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Week 8 all fem plants had one watering with just water and 2ml/L florakleen in order to prepare the soil for bloom nuts in the end of the week. Temp in dark period increased a couple of degrees and they already look slightly better. Auto noname strain must be about 15-20 days from ready to harvest 😝
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@RastaGrow
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Начало 4 недели цветения , на 18 день сделал дефоляцию 707 перенёс всё бес стреса ;) ну что скажите друзья.?
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Vamos familia, actualizamos la décima semana de floración de estas Sagrada amnesia de Seedstockers, salieron las 5 de 5, 100% ratio éxito. Aplicamos varios productos de Agrobeta, que son increíbles para aportar una buena alimentación a las plantas.( Justo esta variedad 2 de 3 son bastante sensibles y marcan en las hojas exceso pero no están las puntas quemadas) Temperatura y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos dentro de la etapa de floración. La tierra utilizada es al mix top crop, por cambiar. De 5 ejemplares seleccioné los 3 mejores para completar el indoor y trasplanté directamente a macetas de 7 litros, el fotoperiodo a 12/12, también aplique una buena poda de bajos, se ven bien sanas las plantas, tienen un buen color, ya progresan las flores, llevan ya una tricomada… increíble. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨.
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Enjoyed this run. Ready to harvest in about 1 and a half weeks, I actually have seeds in a couple of the plants. It happens, this is my first indoor grow so, need to get my hand on some new genetics
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First time growing with autos and with leds