The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Still on point. Starting to get things dialed in after a big new move. Started 2 more lemon Zkittles 2 Cinderella Jacks and 2 more Think Different. Love DUTCH Passion! Pots are full of lime, earthworm castings (Lots) feather meal fish meal phosphorus... starting to smell. A buddy grew lemon skittles (Kix) and does it stink. Love it.
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Week 4 flower : everything’s looking nice still got the lights about 7-9” from top of canopy without any issues . The humidity has gone up to 50% in day and I can’t really get it any lower I’ve already got a dehumidifier so don’t want to get another one . I would like to lower to 40-45% and lower for last 2 weeks but can’t see that happening . I’ve started the pk from end of week 4 (day 28 )at 1ml per litre this took my ec to 2.2 I will see how it goes and maybe up it to 1.2-1.5 and I’m going to use the pk for 7-14 days then I will start the flush I also lowered the silicone to 0.5ml per litre 3x blue cheese plants are on the left but has spread over and 1x sunset sherbet on the right
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As for what I've been doing for maintenance, I've been watching and waiting and just adding water when needed into the reservoir, should be less then 2 or 3 days by now
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@Chubbs
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FBA2504-week 1 of Veg This week has been wild. Once the roots made a foundation the upper growth has been explosive the last few days. Really cool to watch and see the daily growth. I introduce calmag and grow nutrients this week starting at a 1/4 strength. All in all they've responded well showing no burn what so ever. One of them does have some weird leaf structure going on but looks like its fixing itself. Happy Growing
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COLOMBIAN JACK by KANNABIA Week #7 Overall Week #6 Veg This week she was growing great so I topped her again on her 2 side branches and took off the bottom branches to focus her energy on her main branches and tops. Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com COLOMBIAN JACK
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One of the plants grew massive! However the smoke wasn’t the best until a good 4 weeks cure. Very hairy buds too which was interesting 😂 Still a nice smoke
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@Jimmy89
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Decided to give these a few more days, was planning to chop them on day 56 but I’ll let them go till day 60. They have had over a week with no nutrition, just water. Photos taken day 59 of flower, they’re coming down tomorrow!!
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@Siriuz
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Finally got my blue dream from seedsman. Winner of the contest seeds of knowledge Here it is finally growing this beautiful lady I gotta say this one was almost broken, it arrived very well but since it was hidden as requested when I open the box with a razor to take out the seeds Packs my bad accidentally cut a tiny side of the seed Shell which I noticed and place into germination and now she is here with us and we are very happy to welcome her to our family Day 1 Tuesday Place into germination Fully at dark until next morning from 8AM Started to get light since she is a photoperiod At the end of the Day went and hid it in a box very well so its dark Day 2 Same process took her out and start again sunny Day for her indoors of course Day 3 Thursday finally got her showing its cotyledons doing the same process :3 And im guessing it goes with the sun At the end of the Day got to give her enough darkness she is a feminized seeds which I have to make her flower after idk some time so I will try and see how much she can grow and get STRESS for yield and potency, thanks a lot for your support Happy Friday btw 👽🌱 **** DAY 5 My girl is a monster and needs to recover Taproot was coming out of peatmoss and I didnt even notice so had to transplant to a Bigger pot soon, since she is not an auto she is way too fast cuz taproot was out in the bottom so I had to take the net out of the Peat moss so roots van expand comfortably but accidentally broke the tiny edge while sliding with lil to no pressure and it sucks but it was stuck and it was either that or just plant it like that but well probably I should have left her be but anyways she is young I think she will develop more since she is in a better soil mix now than just Peat moss, wish me luck cuz I really hope she is better and gets to grow huge, we will see at the process right This is whats all about Lets do our best tho We will! Enjoy & happy growing everyone ☺️
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Our weather has completely deteriorated, the snow has already broken in the morning, so I see no reason to further torment the plant, and I decide to harvest. Moreover, she almost stopped dialing - as we say "MYEMO SHO MYEMO"😄 Come back in a few days, I will summarize and draw conclusions. Glory to Ukraine! 🇺🇦
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Everything is going ok no roots yet on the clones but we got a week b4 we need to worry Temps steady humidity steady will be topping of res with more nutes todau
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Nothing special this week, everything just going as it should. A tiny little problem was: weather. She went thru some high temps for maybe 4h (up to 35C), took a bit more of water than normal and looked wasted that day, but on next day she was just fine! Now entering her final umpf, leaves starting to yellow everywhere, most pistils are brown, but no sign of amber trichs! Right now >90% are cloudy (zoom in), still giving her feed for more 3-4 days and then just plain water for more 10-14 days. Maybe I’ll get 10-20% amber in the end, which is just fine for me :)
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Hifi 4G seems to be a bit sensitive to the current and previous feeding levels. Had multiple leaves exhibit nutrient burn. Otherwise all seem to be happy. Hifi 4G, NL/Skunk and Blueberry continue to lead the pack on Bud development. God I hope I don't screw this up!
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🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 Week III 🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 A WEEK OF A LOT OF PATIENCE, PLANTS STOPPED AND I TRIED TO MODIFY THE WIDE ASPECT OF LIGHT TO UNLOCK THEM, AS I HAD ALREADY SCHEDULED LET'S PULL ON TO 6 WEEKS OF VEGETATION AND WAIT FOR BETTER DEVELOPMENTS 📝📝📝📝📝 Notes 📝📝📝📝📝 CHANGE IN THE WATERING JOURNEY, LEAVING 1 WATERING DAY FOR 2 DRY WATERING FOR EVERY DAY NO, BEING 1 WATERING WITH NUTRIENTS AND ANOTHER WATER ONLY. 📝📝📝📝📝
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@Roberts
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She has grown large compared to the other plant in the Athena. They do have a very common bud structure, and smell. I think it was just 2 different phenom types. I switched her to ph water yesterday. I will be harvesting her in roughly a week for the next update. She has a good cloudy trichrome percent with just a few Amber's here, and there. So it's time to finish her up. Thank you ILGM, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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She has been chopped!!! Now we will be back in 10 -14 days depending on how trimming goes. That’s the part I hate the most. Probably will pick up a trim bag been seeing those puppies around and seems like it could be a good accessory to have. Thank you all
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@Kakui
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Veg22, riego con 3.0 EC y pH 5.9, drenaje promedio de 5.8 pH y 2.6 EC(muy bien), primer riego con Sensizym para limpiar un poco las raíces, y este será el último riego de vegetación con Voodoo Juice, Tarantula y Piranha. Se hizo una pequeña defoliación de las hojas abanico más bajas y se volvió a ajustar el LST, ya van tomando la forma final. Veg23, creciendo bien. Veg24, se mide la temperatura de las hojas 22°C y se compara con la temperatura del indoor 23°C, con una humedad de 50% RH, la calculadora arroja un valor de VPD=1.24 kpa, lo que está dentro del rango óptimo. Veg25, hoy toca una pequeña defoliación y probaré también hacer un último apical en 2 o 3 plantas a modo de prueba. Al final, tomé un gran riesgo, y hice varios apicales extra y una defoliación más grande de lo que tenía en mente, tengo fe que resultará bien 😎👌 Veg27, riego con 0.8 EC y pH 6.0, drenaje de 6.0 pH y EC 2.0, se están alimentando y creciendo bien, quedan casi 2 semanas para pasar el fotoperiodo a 12/12, espero que crezcan suficiente para esa fecha. Veg28, un par de hojas de 2 plantas presentan mordidas tipo oruga, revise y no encontré nada, aplique spray insecticida, espero no siga pasando. A parte de eso siguen creciendo bien, quedan un poco más de 10 días para el paso a 12/12.
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.