Likes
Comments
Share
Day 92. Watering with fertilizers. Day 93. Watering with clean water. Day 94. Watering with fertilizers. Day 95. Watering with clean water. Day 96. Watering with fertilizers. Day 97. Watering with clean water. Day 98. Watering with fertilizers.
Likes
4
Share
@Andres
Follow
new crop ... we'll see how it grows ... outdoors....let's see what she offers us outdoor ... and what color she can show us ...
Likes
8
Share
Moved the plants into their flowering space, will probably veg for another week as I am slow on the lighting. Wondering, at this point, if I should just flower at 25w each.. End ppm and ph at 400 and 6.5 respectively, start at 720 and 5.8
Likes
Comments
Share
Well I said I was leaving her untrained but on day 56 I gently tied back a few branches to open up the canopy. This is looking like it's going to be my best grow yet.
Likes
2
Share
@Iceloc60
Follow
Lil LST and defoliation for whiskey Zulu
Likes
2
Share
Likes
2
Share
Processing
Likes
25
Share
28/12/20. inicio de semana, 105 cm de altura hoy se aplico un nutriente foliar marca mexicana Rootz💪 kelper son un extracto algas y azucarez y se aplico por riego giga grow. este contiene guano de murcielago todo organico. se iso corte de ramas bajas y se saco esquejes 3🙏 30/12/20. hoy mide 107 cm de atura me di cuenta de que mostraba algunos pistilos y creo que es el lado que no le pega bien la luz de la lampara foto 3 pero esta hermosa es una planta con forma de pino haha una estructura muy indica. hoy se rego con un nutriente organico rico en silicio llamado forza silicia 💪 01/01/21. hoy se aplico un nutriente foliar marca mexicana Rootz💪 kelper son un extracto algas y azucarez y se aplico por riego giga grow. este contiene guano de murcielago 03/01/21. cierre de semana con 114 cm
Likes
3
Share
@Bdawg
Follow
Chopped day 60 Oreoz looking nice Grape cream cake to Probably wont do apples and bannana again
Likes
25
Share
Jour42 defolliation and LST Jour45 defolliation Jour47 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz La plante entre maintenant en floraison c'est donc le début du stretch Explication en anglais (Stretch explanations more) EXPOSURE TO LIGHT One of the main culprits in abnormal stretching of cannabis plants is the lack of light. Plants that are too far from an adequate light source will respond by accelerating stem growth in order to get closer to the lamp themselves. Especially when there are many other plants. A lack of lighting can easily cause overcrowding in a growing chamber, reducing the steady progression of your crop and the distance ratio between your bulbs and your plants. To address this problem, be sure to provide enough light to your plants to prevent stem growth. At the same time, you should not position your lights too close to your plants either since this would also result in an over-stretching of the stems and in some cases, the loss of your crop. In addition to the distance between the light source and the plant, the type of light you will use also affects the size of the stretching of your crop. The orange and red lights encourage stretching and result in thinner, larger stems. And conversely, blue light stimulates a growth of thicker stems and a smaller size. When a species is ready to enter the vegetative phase and undergo its most drastic stretching period, metal halide lamps can be used to deter far too long stems. THE HEAT Heat is another essential element that can determine the stretch size of your plants during vegetation. Temperatures above 27 degrees push the stems to lengthen more and more and will propel the potential of sativas to push as high as possible. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to plants create an intolerable environment that will grow large, soft plants that will potentially wobble until they fall and lose flowers in its fall. OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING There are multiple variables that can lead to the stretching of plants beyond what could normally be expected of the plant. Environmental stressors resulting from transplantation (when a plant passes from one pot to another) can cause the plant to return to shock. This will eventually trigger a reaction causing a stretch. Cannabis plants that are not grown in decent conditions or do not receive enough nutrients will respond in a variety of ways and this includes stretching. Crops that are not spaced far enough apart are likely to stretch to sting the light to other plants. Due to extreme proximity, the plants will fight among themselves to reach the light, forcing them to expand as much as possible throughout the crop. HOW TO CONTROL STRETCHING DURING FLOWERING Stretching during flowering, you guessed it, takes place when you move your plants from the vegetation stage to the flowering stage. This is a completely normal reaction, as your plants are preparing to bear the weight of their heads. Stretching of a plant at the beginning of flowering varies widely; some plants can double in height while others grow only a few centimetres. There are, however, two main variables that can give you at least an idea of how your plants are stretching during flowering, and how much. Here are these two variables: Variety: Genetics has the greatest impact on the size of your plant. In general, sativa varieties stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, slender stems. Light: Some lights, such as HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. In addition, great distances between your canopy and your lights will cause the plants to stretch as they try to get closer to the light source. Stretching during flowering usually lasts the first two weeks of the phase. To minimize stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimetres (for HID) of your canopy. Finally, choose indica varieties if you have a smaller growing space. HOW TO AVOID STRETCHING In many cases, you can expect your cannabis plants to stretch during the flowering phase. Keeping that in mind helps to make a plan in case your species ends up growing much more than you could have imagined. If the information is available, get information on the standard size of your species and compare it to the size of your growing space taking into account the necessary distances between the bulbs and the plants. TRAFFIC While outdoor crop operations benefit from natural air to naturally limit stretching, indoor crops must assume the maintenance of air circulation within a confined space. Basic ventilation is enough to help the cannabis stems strengthen and become thicker rather than too high. In this way, the plants continue to grow vigorously without reaching heights and at the same time, your tolerance ceiling. MANUAL INTERVENTION For growers who want to get their hands dirty, there are physical procedures that can be done to reduce stretching. Similar to the natural effect that the wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny cracks in the plant's tissues that will cause the plant to focus on regenerating its wounds instead of its vertical growth. THE TOPPING Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to influence its performance, shape or size. In essence, topping is a process in which a new node is cut, growing from the plant to reduce its size and create a "v"-shaped notch that will eventually form two heads. Topping may be an effective measure to combat stretching, but it is important not to do so when the flowering phase begins. In most cases, an abnormal stretch of cannabis plants will not completely destroy your crop. In fact, stretching can indeed help increase your performance. For growers with a growing operation large enough to contain tall plants, stretching can increase the total yield of a species with more vertical space for head formation. In both cases, stretching can easily be planned in advance and there are multiple solutions to help you with this problem which is all too common. May the force be with you 💪
Likes
33
Share
@Belverde
Follow
I delayed a few days to update because the video was not loading . . . . Welcome growers We are over a month from the start with this two BLUEBERRY CHEESECAKE 🍰 The state of health is more or less the same for both, happy, with an excellent green color ⬆️ But from now on something changes, because I intend to cultivate them in two different ways Lights, nutrients and the whole environment will always be the same until the end, but, as you have probably seen in the video, at this moment one has kept the original structure and instead, with the other specimen, I have started to manipolated structure for try to maintaine all the branches approx at the same height 🌿🌿🌿 In this case topping plus a little lst (only on central stem) I only did it on one of them simply because, the larger one has more vigorous lower branches and seems more predisposed to it. I have also cut two or three leafs, not too much for now, just for increase the airflow and also again for a higher lights exposure of the lowers parts✂️ 🍃 About the lights 💡 Doing that, i have increase the potency of my two Mars-Hydro SP3000, from 25% to 50% ⬆️ The two led panel are connected with a cable and i have only to adjuste the dimmer of one of them for change the intensity of each one, in just one move.. Pretty useful 💯 In the middle of the week i have switch from 18/6 on/off to 16/8 on/off.. Always tryed to mimic the natural cycle of the sun light, works good to me 👌 Anyway.. About nutrients 👇 In this week i have giving their always organic/veganic nutrients.. A little bit of silicium (Bionova) / Activator (Biomagno) / Crescita (Biomagno) / Activera (Biobizz) / Grow vegan (Bionova) / The Missing Link (Bionova) / X-Cell (Bionova) and a little bit of P-K 3-5 (Bionova) {This last one i have used in a foliar spray solution} Like i usually do, a little bit of everything at any watering 💧 And that's all.. Another week in vegetation and then we go on flowering 🌻 See you at the end of week n°5 📆 Thank you for stopping by 😎👍 FC ✌️ 🇮🇹
Likes
5
Share
@BunnyBud
Follow
My First Autoflower Growing Indoor 🌸 Finally! I've decided to document my very first autoflower growing experience, starting from scratch with a 60×50×104 cm growbox. It's small, I know, but perfect for learning the ropes and figuring out how everything works. Reality Check: My First Tests During preliminary tests, I discovered something interesting and slightly concerning: starting from 26°C room temperature with the AC running, my growbox hits 28-29°C in about 2.5-3 hours. The maximum peak? A whopping 32°C with lights on and the box fully closed! For now, I've put a damp towel inside - sounds like a DIY hack, but it actually works to stabilize temperatures a bit and reduce those thermal swings. The Economics of It All Smart plugs let me monitor power consumption in real-time - currently running about €0.11/kWh. In a few weeks, I'll have to turn off the AC (my wallet will thank me!), so the first weeks will be characterized by high temperatures around 30-31°C. Fortunately, September and October should bring cooler conditions. My Germination Strategy During germination, I'll keep the lamp 60 cm from the seedlings - that's the maximum height I can manage in this box, but it should minimize light and heat stress on those emerging roots. Later, when the plants are stronger, I'll transfer them to the larger 60×60×180 cm growbox. Oh, almost forgot! A 350 ml/h ultrasonic humidifier is on its way, which should give me much more precise humidity control. My Current Setup The Growbox: 60×50×104 cm - perfect for two autoflowers in 6.5L pots using LST (Low Stress Training). Lighting: Spider Farmer SF-1000D suspended via pulley system near the ceiling, with about 4-5 cm clearance for heat dissipation. Ventilation: 130 m³/h extractor (4" diameter) that expels hot, humid air directly out the window - genius for preventing the room from becoming an oven! Plus a USB clip fan for internal air circulation. Climate: Ambient temperature stable around 26°C; inside the box 27-28°C without lights, jumping to 32°C when they're on. Substrate: BioBizz Light Mix combined with leftover perlite I had - exact quantity will depend on what's available, aiming for the right balance between aerated structure and water retention capacity. Nutrition: BioBizz Fish-Mix for vegetative growth, plus Grow and Bloom. pH maintained between 6.2-6.5. No CalMag for now. Monitoring: Two digital hygrometers connected to an app - one inside the growbox, one in the room. So I can check everything from my phone! Humidification: Two traditional humidifiers, plus the ultrasonic one coming for finer control. My Observations and The Plan The ventilation system works well - it manages to prevent heat and humidity from building up both in the box and the room. That's a win! The germination strategy is simple: lamp at 60 cm and hope for the best. The first weeks will be challenging with those high temperatures (30-31°C) when I turn off the AC, but then autumn should help me out. The plan is to grow the seedlings in the small box, then transfer them to the big one for flowering. Meanwhile, I'm monitoring everything: temperature, humidity, power consumption. The goal is to optimize the on/off cycles. Final Thoughts This first cycle is more of a technical experiment - I want to understand how to manage climate and lighting, stabilize temperature and humidity according to what the plants will ask for at each stage. The transfer to the larger box and winter approaching should improve conditions for optimal growth and flowering. I'll update this diary with all the quantitative data: yields, organoleptic characteristics, setup modifications. It'll be interesting to see how this first adventure turns out! Stay tuned for the next update! Ps: there is also a hole where the air enters passively, only it is hidden by the fan ❤️ 😅 ==UPDATE== BY INSERTING AN ULTRASONIC HUMIDIFIER I ACHIEVED THESE RESULTS, WHICH IS PERFECT 🌡️ Temperature: 23.3°C / 73.9°F 💧 Dew Point: 16.0°C / 60.8°F 💧 Relative Humidity: 63.6% ☁️ Absolute Humidity: 13.3 g/m³ 💨 Vapor Pressure: 18.2 mbar 🌱 VPD (Water Stress): 0.66 kPa 💨 Air Density: 0.012 kg/m³ ✅ Comfort Index: 100/100 🌿 Heat Stress: ✅ Optimal 🔋 Battery: 100% ⏰ Last update: 08/17/2025 12:49:35 I created a Python script that, starting with just 2–3 parameters measured by my Govee H5075 hygrometer, uses real scientific formulas to calculate all the other environmental values. This way, I can monitor my grow box much more effectively! I knew AI and programming skills would come in handy for this too lol ❤️🤣
Likes
21
Share
FINALLY TRANSPLANTED into 10 gallon pots: Flowering SUPER SOIL COMPOSITION (per 20 gal): Medium: -25% coco loco (sustainably sourced from shrilanka i think) -25% peat moss (sustainably source in north america) -50% recycled depleted soil Amendments: -3 cups Citrus Tone Espoma 5-3-6 -1 cup 4-8-4 Mother Earth Bloom -1 cup 2-3-6 Earth Dust Boost -5 cups worm castings -80g w- 20 wollastanite (si + ca) -80g epsom salts -40g dolomite lime Here is what i am thinking: -Plants look good in the new pots, i figure it will be ready to scrog in about a week. -Never heard of anyone using this citrus tone fert but the utah state study said that optimal fertilizer is 20-10-20 blue mixture. Well as an organic grower I want to replicate that ratio. Its not 100% but the point is its high in nitrogen and potassium with adequate phosphorous because I am researching small scale rn and one day I will need to be very mindful of my P usage to be sustainable and regenerative. -I performed a preventative insect repellent because I saw thrip damage and I want to be safe. Honestly I think I am just going to do a neem oil treatment twice before going into flower every time now. I did 1tsp cold pressed jacks neem oil + 1 tsp w-20 wollastanite per 16 oz spray bottle and I drenched both girls all over. I plan on doing one more the day I decide to flip to flower. -Ca is far more important than phosphorous and the nutrient companies have been milking the myths about nutrient ratios for 50 years.' -I really put focus on the rock dust and inert minerals because I have never paid any attention to them but I will be stressing and pushing these plants with light so i need them optimal. -I started my own compost bin with holes in the back yard and I am planning on buying african night crawlers to start a worm bin that way I have two kinds of compost to break down my bubble hash waste and food from the kitchen. Will be great for teas. -I will water them in with a compost tea I am brewing/aerating currently. Giving it 24 hours.
Likes
8
Share
Last week before turning on the utopot system !! She is loving the high EC, everything looking perfect around here !!
Processing
Likes
15
Share
Hola con esta semana ya quedamos al dia con el seguimiento ya que estaba atrasado en el tiempo. Se nota una producción de resina notable en esta genética que nos ha gustado mucho por su olor y estructura de las plantas . hemos creado un video por cada una de las 14 plantas del seguimiento, hay varias muy llamativas que están "pre-seleccionadas" para mantener a futuro, el olor que se llega a sentir es muy florar y dulce, si tienen alguna pregunta no duden en preguntar saludos. Hello with this week we are already up to date with the follow-up since I was late in time. There is a remarkable resin production in this genetics that we liked a lot for its smell and structure of plants. We have created a video for each of the 14 floors of the follow-up, there are several very striking that are "pre-selected" to keep in the future, the smell you get to feel is very flowery and sweet, if you have any questions do not hesitate to Ask greetings.
Likes
1
Share
@Borberad
Follow
In der letzten Woche zogen Geruch und Farbe zusammen mit den Bernsteinwerdenden Trichome nochmal an. Mega rot ist sie jedoch nicht geworden also wird wohl demnächst nochmal ein Samen in der Erde landen um die Suche nach der Lady in Red fortzuführen.
Likes
18
Share
First day went as expected. I put the paper towel in a small see-thru plastic container and put it on the table. With a bit of water and the seeds in side, the germination has now started! Day 2 no progression, moved the tray into my furnace room (pitch black and warm) Day 3 major progression. I got them out and started to prep the jiffy pellets. Shortly after I transferred the roughly half inch tarp roots with seeds into the jiffy pellets, root down, seed up, slightly covered with dirt. I soaked them in water (like a beginner i overwatered heavily knowing what I know now). I placed them back in the tray and put them at a window for light. (Note) the plan was to do outdoor so no light or tent was ordered at this point. Day 4-7 not much progression seeing as the clouds and rain showed up...
Likes
4
Share
1/12/23 all plants stretching nicely. P4 is vary one sided and P1-3 have similar structures. Starting 12/12 cycle tomorrow, still no pre-flower but should have signs by the end of next week. Hoping for at least 2 oz of or each plant.