Alright, so we're moving along with the grow but some of these ladies seem to be struggling just a little bit more than others... they're definitely growing at a great pace but the foliage just looks rough. I stopped the alfalfa Ferment thinking it might be a little to potent for them right now... we'll see how they look after another week. I'm sure they'll all grow out of the funk. This is my mutant auto and she seems to be doing good with her double heads.

End of week the plant received flash clean and soon she will be ready for harvest.

just about done with the 2nd week of flower and I couldn't be any happier. its later in the grow than planned but I need to get this girl into a 7 gallon pot ASAP SUCCESS NUTRIENTS is amazing so far.

D29 Did top dressing with bone and kelp meal as well as worm castings. D31 Performed a little more LST, a few more days and I will let her do her thing. D32 More LST exposed lower nodes and evened out the canopy. D33 Removed all bonsai wire and rolled down the rim of the pot to even it out with to soil, more airflow. D35 Not much growth but overall looking pretty good. Heatwave last couple days keep temperatures higher than desired.

Hello all. hope you are well, I started the Flush today for the last two weeks all they will get is PH 6.0 water. dechlorinated tap water I ran a bubbler for a day and a half and gave them a good dousing. The flush came out to 830 PPM at PH of 6.35 Trichomes are starting to cloud up getting some orange hairs and the fade is setting in looks like the are using up all the Nitrogen in the fan leaves. so this week and one more for good seed development and I think they can all come down the YO YOs have been very helpful as you can see in the video the nugs are heavy. talk to you soon I will have a seed collection video at the end of this run. Cheers

Just Start to trying this week with some grow techniques! Let’s do it 💪😍

Veamos, cosas importantes en la semana. 1- Automaticas y sus caprichos. Te dan las indicaciones en los bancos semilleros que del día de germinación al día de cosecha, es X (pongamos 70 días) y pese a que sea un referente de la duración del ciclo, las automáticas por su genética ruderal, hacen la eclosión de floración y ya he tenido casi todo, empezando por grows que han hecho floración en el día 30 (en un ciclo previsto de 70) y en los 40 días finales, cosas tan increíbles como floración mínima a menos de 4 semanas de la previsión de cosecha y después, como que, literalmente "explotan" y forman cogollos impresionantes en 20 días. 2- Otras por su parte, son muy lineares en sus procesos y es incluso, como si pese a su genética ruderal, pudieran tener influencia de exposición luminosa (lo que no ocurre seguramente) y que pasa por los periodos puedan venir a ocurrir de modo muy seguro - un vegetativo para un ciclo total de 70 dias, por ejemplo, que tiene sus 30 días ciertos y después una floración que va hasta el final de ciclo con crecimiento muy firme y en linea al tiempo de duración - los primeros pistilos, después el desarrollo de pistilos y hojas para estructura de calixes y después, engorda de cogollos con resinas y terpenos- pero todo ocurriendo de modo muy proporcional y sin "tirones" de golpe como os dije por ejemplo, en el tópico anterior. 3- También ya he tenido algún que otro grow de automática, que casi no ha tenido expresión vegetativa y después mientras crecía la floración, se produjo también tirón vertical, casi como si el ciclo tuviera un vegetativo de principio a fin (y eso sin por ejemplo, agregarle en nutrición de floración, tan solo un mililitro de nitrógeno, en periodo supuestamente de floración). 4 - Conclusiones : Todavía para mí es complejo, entender la expresión fenotípica de las automáticas, pero para mí algo se vuelve sencillo de observar y concluir y que es la falta tremenda de estabilidad genética que muchas de las automáticas (incluso las de los bancos semilleros "estrella" y que se gastan millonadas en marketing de ventas) y eso pasa, por qué las reglas del juego para los bancos de semillas, es poner a cada medio año, fotos para venta de cogollos a quien les llamo "cogollos hamburguesería" pues en las fotos, los comes por colores y la gente también y de manera muy atontada se pone en grows de muchas de las automáticas que, hoy día venden lo que considero tasas de THC tóxicas, - para mi, una cepa con un THC del 16% y un buen entourage con otros canabinóides, es mejor y más segura para la salud, que cosas que por ahí se "regalan" con tasas de THC muy por encima del 30% y a mí siempre me gustó que el humo, me sea placentero y que pueda desarrollar actividad, en vez de quedarme tumbado y en paranoia delirante. 4 - En los más técnico...semana de defoliación y defoliación muy a critério pues era muy notorio que por las reducidas dimensiones del área de los grows automáticos , en las partes inferiores había una cantidad muy significativa de los que se designan "ramas vampiras" y de hojas fan que en estos momentos no más que eran limitantes a los aportes de oxígeno/dióxido carbónico y concentración de humedad en el limite físico del sustrato con la atmosfera. A los que están empezando siempre daros la información que solo hay que crear condiciones para que el tercio superior de las ramas pueda al final, convertirse en espacio de floración. Los tercios inferiores de los grows, deben pues estar limpios de ramas finas que no cogen luz ó hojas fan que por el mismo motivo solamente estorban y tienen implicaciones muy serias, en lo tocante a productividad final. Por lo cual, las "vampiras" hay que removerlas cuando las ramas donde estén insertas ya tengan grosor y resistencia para que las "vampiras" sean arrancadas sin por ejemplo haber secado de la rama. ESTE PROCEDIMIENTO EN INDOOR - RETIRADA DE RAMAS "VAMPIRAS" Y HOJAS FAN EN LIMITE BAJO DEL GROW- ES OBLIGATORIA CARA A OBTENER COGOLLOS DE GRAN CALIDAD Y TAMAÑO (y no confundir defoliación, con FIMming o con cortes apicales pues las automáticas en regla se resienten tremendamente y pueden incluso "cargarse" con maniobras que impliquen alto estrés). 5 - En lo más técnico y por qué no he sido aún muy específico en la forma de nutrición con los nutrientes/aportes de Top Crop: * De lo que podéis ver en la nutrición, cada uno de los nutrientes solo se usa una vez a la semana y hago en regla una tabla donde a cada día preparo según el grow la solución. Así y por ejemplo; Lunes - Agua 1L (agua limpia) Martes - Big One 2ml/L Miércoles - Top Candy 2ml/L Jueves - Água 1L (agua limpia) Viernes - Top Auto 3,5 ml/L Sábado -Agua 1L (agua limpia) Domingo - Agua 1L (agua limpia) Lo de Top Crop en linea del control, se basa muchísimo en las tasas de PH y si la recomendación son tasas del 5,8-6,2, la experiencia me ha enseñando que si, esos son los límites en vegetativo...pero en floración, yo mantengo el limite entre 6,4 -6,7 y para las automáticas, empezar con más de 6,2 y de empiezo de floración a fin de ciclo, el PH ideal es siempre más de 6,6 y nunca sobrepasando el 6,8. Mucha atención por qué cuando toque a darle: - cuatro veces en el total de ciclo de grow, el maravilloso Top Mass, por ser uno de los mejores aportes de silicio en el mercado y por su formulación que permite una absorción del silicio de manera muy efectiva - tres veces en todo el ciclo del Barrier (también silicio y aporte de aminoácidos y quelatos base y muy efectivo para prevención de estrés de todos los tipos y de agresiones de plagas (como siempre preparo suelo con mycorrizas, trichoderma y bacterias de recaptación atmosférica, no tengo memoria de alguna plaga que pueda haber tenido, desde que las mycorrizas y la trichoderma son puestos en el sustrato) - el CalMag, que por ele tipo de agua se incluye más o menos veces. En regla y en lo que llevo de ciclo, tanto en automáticas cuanto fotodependientes, solo he usado un par de veces. El CalMag cuando hagas uso de aguas blandas (con poca o ninguna mineralización); cuando trabajes sobre todo con coco o otros sustratos en esta linea y con tendencia a gran porosidad y poca retención ó y ahora os explico el por qué del uso esta semana, pues cuando por ejemplo, se hace una mayor inclusión de tasas de PK (fósforo y potasio), el magnesio y cálcio del CalMag, mejoran el rendimiento de la "bomba" de captación del PK y la integración de la mayor cantidad posible de estos dos, es la diferencia entre cogollos bellos, gordos y resinosos ó media docena "vellos" acurrucados. - Habéis visto a igual que incluso con los nutrientes de Top Crop y su inductor de floración que es el Top Bloom, para mí hay cosas que no cambió ni lo dejo a segundo plano y el Delta 9 de Cannabiogen es muchísimo más que tan solo un inductor de floración más. Es un producto de altísima calidad, con una de las más equilibradas composiciones alguna vez pensada y además una forma perfecta de compensar deficits, pues si formular de aminoácidos, de azúcares y de compensación de macro y micro elementos es inmejorable. A los que habéis ya trabajado y lo conocéis, sabéis cómo se usa y en floración plena, nada de daño vendrá, si en un periodo de un mes a cada diez dias por fertirrigación (en total tres veces) sacáis de riego con Delta 9, vuestros grows. 6 - A lo largo de la semana : Temp. Maxima (período luces encendidas) : de 23 a 26ºC Temp. Mínima (período luces desconectadas) : de 20 a 22ºC Variaciones Humedad Relativa : entre 68% y 89% Ratio CO2 ambiente : de 406 (min.) a 568 (max.) Y aquí tenéis lo más destacado de la semana...que el Dios Jah nos proteja siempre de todos los peligros -en grow y fuera de el- 420 siempre y por el derecho al cultivo de recreación sin amago de ganancias y la Cannabis como producto de sustentabilidad; uso médico y de recreación y uso positivo. Green Greets a todos los hermanos. Tom

I always find it hard to say how much water they are taking because the whole auto pot thing. It would be more useful to maybe have an option to be able to change the unit because it would be way easier for me to say how much water has been put in the res during the week - sometimes even that’s hard to remember for me! Aaaaanyway, things are going fine in the grow - I turned down the light just a tiny bit as the pistols were showing signs of having too much light and they were just looking a little bleached out, so I turned down the light to around 80-90% as well as I think I raised it a little bit also. It’s much harder keeping everything stable in such a small space when I am used to having a room to use but oh well, it is what it is - I am really lucky / stupid to be doing this one, however, I also went into the grow knowing I may have to kill her at any moment - dependant upon visits etc. I know photo growers always say there is no difference in speed between autos and photos but there is a couple of weeks in it most of the time - at the very least. I tried it, my last proper grow I selected all fairly fast flowering photos (not those photos that have been bred with autos to make them quick but just generally fast flowering plants) and it still took longer than my longest auto has taken and it annoyingly Hermes so had to turn into hash coz it was super annoying.) but that’s all in the past now… So I haven’t had to resort to using my AC yet but I did get a 1/4 of the price knocked off because it doesn’t work with the app properly and that’s basically what it was sold on! Don’t go to klarstein, people! She’s def been stretching for sure but I remember this being a really squat plant anyway and I have also trained it in a bit of an odd manner so that it grew outwards with a flatter canopy - I wouldn’t top in future. I don’t really know why I did - maybe because I always have (for the most part) but I think she’d have grown taller and had bigger side branching if I hadn’t but having said that it is pretty much impossible to tell! Unless you do an A/B test - which I obviously don’t have room for! In the next week I am hoping to see her get really hairy and hoping to have to attach a carbon filter - as that would mean she’s happy and I’m going to get some dank. With regards to expected harvest - I genuinely have no idea. She averages at around 2.5z/plant going on the info put into grow diaries and that it about what I got last time - I don’t think I ever weighed it tbh coz I grew it just to turn into rosin. Having said that, it is a totally different set up and the first time I am using this light, so I’m not sure of the capabilities of what is probably a 120-140w light - now I have dimmed it down. I mean, I guess if she was starved for light I wouldn’t have had to turn it down so I’m confident it can produce sticky buds. I will also turn it up to full power in the last couple weeks. She’s meant to be a 10 week or 70 day strain - and I hope that is true because I am going on holiday in early July so I can’t have her going on and on and on. She will have to be cut when she will have to be cut - and maybe hung whilst I am away with the ability to control the environment over Wi-Fi (and probably a camera). Iv just looked at dates and actually she can go on for 13 weeks and so it is all good - she should still be drying by the time I go there and should be ready for me when I get back - I’ll be doing a dry trim as I always do just because it slows down the drying process even more - although actually to be fair the main reason I used to do that was I didn’t have seperate climate control for drying and couldn’t use the tent as was on a perpetual grow. This time I’ll be able to set it tov 60%/60f and hopefully keep it there for a full couple of weeks. Obviously I get rid of big the fan leaves and also chop it into smaller branches but other than that I prefer to do it all dry - saves your choppers for one thing!

Week 15 going good…not bad …switching to bloom nutrient… and did a ton of defoliating to loosen up the canopy hopefully they won’t grow too much when I flip them to 1212 in a week I’ve seen these plants three times the size. Hopefully I can stunt that growth during the initial stretch by switching to Bloom nutrients early. Defoliating a week before flipping. I may decide to top them more but I probably won Do I have to type here for it to be green this is crazy. I’ve done more than a paragraph now at this point it’s kind of weird that it’s not green be green what the hell can it still not be green

| 📅 Week 4 | Days 22 - 28 | 💡 562w 📏40' | | ☔ 29%-38% | | 🌡️️🌞 76 - 79 | | 🌡️️🌑 73 - 75 | 11/30 Reservoir swap with increased nutrients and PH adjusted to 5.8. The girls have really been growing well the last few days. 12/01 PH adjusted to 5.6. Temperatures have been steady and are in a good zone currently. LST will begin tomorrow. 12/02 Reservoirs topped off and PH adjusted to 5.8. Low stress trained the tops down. Nutrient flush for 2 plants in reaction to a Nitrogen Toxicity. 12/03 No water needed added. PH adjusted to 5.6 and light was raised a few more inches to match growth. Looking healthy right now. 12/04 Reservoirs are pretty stable and PH has hardly changed. There are fairly Ideal conditions environmentally at the moment. 12/05 PH adjusted to 5.8 and LST readjusted to maximize light penetration. Nutrients added back to the flushing plants with no FloraMicro. 12/06 Reservoirs topped off and PH adjusted to 5.8. Low stress training the canopy to be even and low. I love seeing the tent fill up Overall this weeks growths was fantastic and the before/after really shows it. Seeing a Timelapse really puts it into perspective how fast they grow week to week. Hopefully we have another full week of veg on these girls before they decide to start flowering. That's probably not the case, but we can hope! Week 5 is going to be exciting nonetheless 😎

New week for this baby Gorilla cookies. 😎🤓,

🌴WEEK 6 DAY 1 VEG🌴 As you can see after defolitating some leaves to expose lower shoots to light worked out perfectly as she back with a full canopy and most lower shoots have had chance to reach the same hieght as others along with some lst & tucking with her rapidly growing new shoots and leaves tells me shes happy but i am seing a few of symptoms allong the way which i have posted (images) below I find these odd rust looking brown marks on my plant i also had found 1 leaf that looked asif it had been eaten at with this browning close by, i belive it is not pest as i have tried to inspect as best as i can and i do not see anything but i havent checked with microscope :( but im sure its not pest related another thing along my journey that hasnt been exactly how i expected is run off, im week 6 day 1 shes growing fast and seems happy im giving 3L of water at 608ppms with a ph of 5.5 allowing the coco to slightly dry before watering again when i check my run off ppms its way lower today i gave 608ppms it came out at 180ppms WTF :( if anyone read this far if you know your stuff could you possibly help me out take a look at my photos/videos and let me know what you think of my plant.. is she looking healthy.? do you know what these small problems could be? thankyou, Lets Grow!

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Hi everyone :-) . This week she has made great progress. Tomorrow I will repot to 15 l and will do it again Add 2 g GHSC Powder Bio Grow per l cocos :-). From then on the hardcore training begins :-). Otherwise everything was cleaned and refilled. Stay healthy 🙏🏻. You can buy this Strain and Nutrients at : https://greenhouseseeds.nl/ ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Green House Seeds Company Cup Clone 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Coco ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Bio Grow Feeding ( GHSC ) , Enhancer ( GHSC ) , Bio Bloom ( GHSC) ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8

Bonjour a toutes et à tous . Cette semaine j ai eu des soucis avec 3 plantes qui évolue plus lentement (chose qui fais qu elle ne supporte pas autant de ppm que les autres 😞) J ai donc hier commencer à arroser les 3 retardataires avec une solution moins forte (300ppm pour 2, 3 jours puis je passerai à 600ppm ) Normalement ça devrais le faire ,bon les photo sont prise avant la nuit donc les feuilles tombent encore plus ) je rajouterai des photo demain voir le changement , j ai également rajouter le co2 aujourd'hui (système airbombz) histoire de les aidé à reprendre un peut plus vite et au moment où toutes les plantes seront O.K je Les passerai en floraison . HORREUR DE VOIR MES PLANTES COMME CA !!!@! ON VA CHANGER CELA TRES VITE.. Voilà 24h après les plantes on déjà meilleurs mine ;) On se revoit très vite pour le taillage des branches avant la floraison. 20/04 bonjour. Comme toutes les plantes sont bien partie la j ai décider de faire la taille des branches inférieure un peut plus tôt histoire de passer en floraison lundi (à voir si les plantes auront récupéré d ici la ;) Autrement l arrosage se fait PH= 5.8 PPM= 800 (pour toutes les plantes ) Voilà voilà c est à peut près tous pour le moment . (D ici lundi je vais mettre quelque photo des racines qui sont juste immense et d une épaisseur jamais vue ça ;)

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Woche 11