The harvest is coming soon also for Strawberry Gorilla and Orange Sherbet, news this week the strawberry pie has grown, who knows if it will make buds full of resin or seeds, maybe both? We will see! the story continues...

Week 20/5 - 26/5 Final days!

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

EC 2,3 ph6.3 VPD1,1,~1,5 Bisher läuft alles gut... Hatte etwas unterschätzt, was die an Masse zulegen... nicht der Stretch, sondern Biomasse. (Beides Mamis, mehrfach gestoppt).. möchte so spät aber nicht mehr beschneiden, hoffe das ich keine Schimmel Probleme bekomme... Interessant die knapp 20cm Höhenunterschied der beiden... Die kleinere wurde einmal mehr entlaubt... Genetik ist identisch.. ob's jetzt nur daran liegt, kp.. aber interessant 🧐😉 Fahre weiterhin das Plagron Düngerschema Bloom+ Green Sensation allerdings höherer EC mit 2.3.. + cannazym Tank fülle ich alle 2-3 tanke mit 15 Litern Wasser, wobei 3 Tage schon kritisch wird... Sehr durstig die beiden

Talk about a mission accomplished, dam you Lamby… you had me excited at one point when I thought you were an auto, but to my shock, you are a regular, you just have a long ass flowering window… at least unlike her sisters within the 4th cycle, she did not reveg she just focused on flower, the buds are bulky and firm, scent is amazing, you would mistake her for a cheese strain. I should not be disappointed by the plant’s size! Because I planted her during winter, and all outdoor or greenhouse(unless you have a GH that is climate controlled), do not grow as big as the would during spring or summer season, and due to this factor, I only got 59g of wet bud. But I have faith the other ladies will produce a higher yields. Last I smoke this strain was earlier late summer or early Autumn, and from smoking to growing now harvest, I wish I am blown out the water with this strain, it’s time to conduct that questionnaire. Or even better go to an established cannabis club, and get them to samples bud, and ask for a review.

Day 21 - Past week or so was rough (drooping leaves), which recovered during the night period. I figured it was either light or heat. Turns out the lights were way to bright (brown tips, bleaching leaves, drooping leaves). Turned off the 300 watt LED. Turned the Two 75 watt LEDS TO 40% plant is now stretching out nicely. Will turn light up slowly once stretch looks good. Happy New Year! Day 22 - Stretch looks good turned lights up 5% and leaves stopped stretching so back to 40%. Day 23 - Everything is resolved. Lights were way to bright. Caused the plant to stay short and brown tips. Reduced lights by 60% and now it’s beginning to stretch a little during the day and a lot at night. Added nutes back in and reduced the water to 2 cups per day. Day 25 - added 5% on lights. Stretching nicely. Manage vertical growth with filling out using the lights. Day 26 - looking good increased water to 12oz per day. Day 27 - lights up 5% back down 5%. I leave it alone now. Couple gnats flying around. Not sure if it is a problem?

She's looking extremely healthy enjoying lactobacillus made by me and florians living organics full of 10 types of mycorrizae,humic and fulvic ácidas,aminoacids,vegetable hormones and beneficial fungus,also guanokalong extract which is also full of life man! She's just an organic happy girl in a soil full of micro life,thank you everybody peace ✌️ 💚 ❤️ 💛

Following High Powered Organics Gro-dirt Gro-Guide.. Things are looking up Massive leaves.. No topping or Lst..

I’ve been training this canopy since it was in a tent this spring! Indoor tent has great flowers. I’m hoping to get a half pound of good smoke. I look to be on my way !

It was a longer road until here. With all the reading I did I still made rookie mistakes. To much nutrients and to much light stunt my plant and created some deficiencies ( CaMg). Hopefully I will do ok from now on.... Lifted the light at 3 feet on 100% power and decreased the PPM’s to 600. Hopefully that will help and I did not create to much damage. Wish me luck. I invested a lot of time and money on this grow but the experience is not there yet. I’m ok with what it is, I’ve learned a lot from this grow.

Picked up this Clone today. Excited to see what I can get with her. She's testing super high in terps and cannabanoids. Win win.

topped 3 from seed 1 getting ready to mainline. This is 1st grow so any input would be great. The clones from day 1 were given to me looking unhealthy. The strawnanna is coming along . I'm worried about clone 2 but I'm optimistic !!! "Let it grow " (~);-}

Still going strong. Staying healthy and attracting ladybugs. Feeding her molasses. No other change in feeding amount except that

Day 67

Día 29 (18/11) Subo a DLI 45 CBD Auto 20:1 #1 sigue sin mostrar las preflores... ¿será una auto tardía o será una fotoperiódica? Cada planta empieza a tomar su ritmo de riego personalizado, así que allá vamos: CBD Auto 20:1 #1 1000 ml CBD Auto 20:1 #2 0 ml LSD-25 Auto 750 ml OG Kush Auto 750 ml He observado que regar 1 litro de golpe provoca escorrentía (llevándose nutrientes del Super Soil), de modo que riego primero 750 ml, y a los 5-10 minutos añado 250 ml adicionales y el sustrato es capaz de absorberlo todo😁 Día 30 (19/11) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 sigue sin mostrar las preflores... Debido a que no para de crecer CBD Auto 20:1 #1, decido hacerle una buena defoliación y algo de Lollipopping. A ver como reacciona! Riego H2O RO CBD Auto 20:1 #1 750 ml CBD Auto 20:1 #2 750 ml LSD-25 Auto 500 ml OG Kush Auto 500 ml Día 31 (20/11) Por fin CBD 20:1 Auto #1 muestra las preflores (femeninas)! 😍 Parece que va a ser una Late Bloomer! OG Kush Auto están empezando a estirarse, parece que va a ser un monstruo! Riego H2O RO CBD Auto 20:1 #1 750 ml Día 32 (21/11) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 se muestra imparable en su crecimiento a pesar de la defoliación y el Lollipopping de hace dos días De modo que me decido a hacerle Supercropping! Dicen que NO se debe hacer Supercropping a las Autos, pero siempre me gusta experimentar y ver que ocurre. Come on! Un día muy divertido! 😁 Riego H2O RO CBD Auto 20:1 #1 750 ml CBD Auto 20:1 #2 500 ml LSD-25 Auto 750 ml OG Kush Auto 750 ml Día 33 (22/11) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 se ha recuperado estupendamente! No deja de crecer y estirar cada una de sus ramas! OG Kush Auto está estirándose muchísimo (4 cm / día), de modo que decido hacer LST a la cola principal para buscar una nivelación de la canopia Riego H2O RO CBD Auto 20:1 #1 750 ml CBD Auto 20:1 #2 0 ml LSD-25 Auto 0 ml OG Kush Auto 0 ml Día 34 (23/11) OG Kush Auto se ha recuperado muy bien del LST! 😍 La rama principal ya está apuntando hacia arriba y creciendo! El resto de ramas de OG Kush Auto empiezan a estirarse igualando la canopia Le aplico un ligero LST para espaciar y distribuir las ramas Riego H2O RO CBD Auto 20:1 #1 1000 ml CBD Auto 20:1 #2 750 ml LSD-25 Auto 750 ml OG Kush Auto 750 ml Día 35 (24/11) Lollipopping & Defoliation day! 😍💥💨😁 CBD Auto 20:1 #1 Lollipopping de todos los nodos y hojas quedan por debajo del plano "virtual" que marca el supercropping CBD Auto 20:1 #2 Defoliación de algunas hojas de abanico que tapan a cogollos inferiores LSD-25 Auto Defoliación de algunas hojas de abanico que tapan a cogollos inferiores & Lollipopping de una par de nodos de las 2 ramas inferiores OG Kush Auto Eliminación de las ramas del 1er nudo (eran enanas y débiles) y defoliación de algunas hojas de abanico que tapan a cogollos inferiores. Riego H2O RO CBD Auto 20:1 #1 1000 ml CBD Auto 20:1 #2 0 ml LSD-25 Auto 0 ml OG Kush Auto 0 ml 💦Nutrients by Bio Tabs - www.biotabs.nl/en/ 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-hp-biofungicide-plus-mycorrhizae "GDBT420" 15% DISCOUNT code for the BIOTABS Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/

What a fun run this was ! These Ogreberrys finished up from 81 days to 102 days with nice hints of gassy , sour purple , sweetness and glistening with frost! These ladies will cure up for a month an will be ready to test out ! So much fun , I highly recommend this strain if your looking for some oooy gooohy resiny grape smelling nugs !

Every two weeks using BioEnhancer,wormhumus and homemade compost tea

Growing quickly ,Humbolts Nutrients works great with mini silica doing 6 on 2off total of 18hrs light and 6hrs dark