We’ve officially entered week 7 with our FBA 2504 from 42Fast Buds, and the transformation is impressive—our girl is now in full bloom! After a smooth and steady vegetative phase, the flowering stage is progressing beautifully. The decision to experiment with a 12/12 light cycle for this autoflowering strain has proven to be an interesting choice, and so far, the results are encouraging. The plant stands tall and strong in its 10-liter pot, with a well-structured shape thanks to early LST. The climate remains stable with daytime temperatures reaching up to 30°C and an average range of 27–28°C. Humidity levels are consistently between 60% and 65%, which has supported healthy growth throughout the cycle. We continue to feed her with Xpert Nutrients, and the impact is clearly visible—dense flowering sites, vibrant foliage, and a healthy overall appearance. The aroma is starting to build, and the buds are forming with great structure and frost. So far, this grow has been a pleasure, and week 7 marks a crucial point where everything starts coming together. We’re excited to see what the final weeks will bring!

05/13: graine mise pour 12h dans un verre d'eau 05/14: passage dans le papier toilette. 05/15: germe sorti la graine commence à s'ouvrir direction le jiffy 05/16: 24h plus tard le jiffy ce craquelle et on aperçoit la graine remonter vers la lumière 05/17: je me réveille et aperçoit la graine presque ouverte qui a percé le sol encore quelque heures et je place le jiffy dans le pot de 11L qui l'attend. Voilà qui est fait le jiffy est enterré avec un dôme dans son pot. 05/18: je suis épaté par la vigueur de ce plant, elle a vraiment envie de vivre la petite elle est passée au travers de la graine avec une force incroyable !! Je compte suivre la logique d'arrosage suivante: je maintient le substrat dans sa globalité +/--humide car la petite est au millieu de son énorme pot et je vais arroser à hauteur de +/- 150ml les pourtours du plantules quand le subsrat montrera des signes de sécheresse plus avancés et je réhydrate la terre en surface en dessous du dome pour maintenir un taux d'humitée élévée pour les premiers jours de la lady. 05/19: première arrosage en douceur autour du plantule. Dans ma première culture j'ai utilisé des pots de 5L mal rempli y devais y avoir +/- 3.5L en réalité et sur cette plante ci j'utilise un pot de 11L et l'arrosage est plus simple à gérer dans un grand pot enfin on as moins peurs de sur arroser. ... 05/20: jusqu'ici tout va bien!

Unfortunately, I had a bad grow due to the high temperatures.

Lowered height of light to stop seedlings stretching, also turned humidifier off as soil staying very moist, have barely watered this week once every 4 days, think the soil is absorbing water through the fabric pots from the humidifier. Clip on fan arriving tomorrow, as other fans a bit too powerful seedlings were starting to lean a little. No nutes other than root juice as biobizz allmix quite hot/nutrient rich to start with

Buds are forming very well. Smell is nice and increasing. Been removing big fan old leaves so sunlight can penetrate all the plant, and concentrate energy on flowers. Organic fertilization very carefully to prevent nutrient burn.

This week is getting closer but still not close to the size I want pre flower. I turned down the lights and got some fertilizer to see if I can coax them to grow up. I think I've been light shocking them. 12/25 I hiked down the light and got the some fertilizer and you can see the diff in just one day of fertz and less light, more humidity

I also used seaweed extract, a source for potash, n-p-k 0-0-17. In my first two harvet the bud on the tree smelled like cat box for litter. Granted this is an age old description for types of pot plant. But after adding a recmoended dose the plant smells nice after that. Can add as foliage spray but not in direct light. Some describe this nutrient as a stress relief for the plant. Also I switched from GAIA Power Bloom to Canna Flores. The sweet pepper took well to the Holland based nutrient brand. As for the Jr Mintz, there is actually a hint of mint , the edible tea leaf made a very tranquile hot beverage. And when smoking the dried bud the sessation delivers both head buzz and body buzz. Great for writers and authors who want to sit comfy in their writers chair and work all day by the rainy window.

Everything looking good so far solo cup for another Week or two I think

UPDATED ENTRY DAY 64-THE CULL:They have finally finished. After waiting very patiently and thinking this would go on forever, these fruity little beauties are done. I have now put them into the dark for 36 hours before I chop them and hang them for a low and slow dry ( approx 10 days at below 19°c and rh 50%) . I haven't used the Harvest option as I want to be able to complete the information correctly without going back and using edits. They have been a brilliant strain to try for my 1st ever auto run and I will definitely be on my list again if I do another. Their small stature and finish time are better suited to a more natural grow and mild lst for lights penetration i.m.o . I am looking forward to seeing their final yield as they feel rock solid on the big stemmed girls. Will do a full report once I have a final harvest to add. peace and live folks , see you on here in about 2 weeks total. 63: I thought these would be finished at this point but from close up inspection with my loupe , we still have mostly clear trichs in the house. Their overall look is amazing. opening the ten teach day and seeing them standing proud with their beautiful colours is a blessing. I love this strain for appearance and if it smoke like it looks , I will be a happy life long fan. #1 Is feeling nice and tacky when i touch her but also has a greasy feel too. she smells amazing of sweetness and definitely berry. Her size wont break any records but if I grew them again I would leave them to grow their normal height as #3 is. #2 is the nicest looking for size of them all and has me just staring at it when I get the chance. They are so close to the end now and it is killing me waiting.!!! #3 Is the girl left to grow after her very pale start and veg period sonos the tallest structure wise .She doesnt have weighty buds like her sisters but certainly looks good now. I think it is their last week now for sure.

Hey everyone, I have a sour ripper plant in my 40x40 cm grow tent, and I've shared my light setup above. I need your opinions on whether I should transition her into the flowering stage or wait a bit longer. I think I may have trimmed the main stem too much to the side, and I'm a bit worried about it, honestly. This is my first grow, and I've made some mistakes along the way. Should I perform more low-stress training (LST) to the opposite side of where I trimmed the main stem? I've also removed four big leaves from the bottom that were covering a significant amount of light to the lower branches, and I've just performed four toppings. I need your opinions , happy growing all!

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This week has shown some nice growth, and gained some height too. The leaves are a lush healthy green colour, there hasn't been anything to do this week apart from watering, and this is what I gave this week. 20.8.25: I watered with 1.5ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.0 with; 💜 2ml Trace PH: 6.0 PPM: 340 24.8.25: I watered with 2L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.6 with; 💜 1ml Flourish PH: 6.6 PPM: 315 29.8.25: I watered with 2L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 with; 💜 2ml Trace PH: 6.5 PPM: 321 Thanks for stopping by this week and hanging out 😁💚👌🌱✌️

4/9/25 This plant is beyond frosty. Stacking up super nicely. Seems like she will yeild quite a bit. My only gripe is that she has like no smell at all. Using the foil as a soil cover is working quite nicely. the top soil is getting filled with roots quite well. Top dressed 1tsp of Bloom 1tsp microbe charge 1tsp bloom

Finishing final week before the flip to flower. All three ladies looking great. Swapped out taller legs for plant stand supporting Napali Pink (NPK, 13"), compared to The Bling (17") and Mimosa (15"). I pulled all smaller nodes starting at base and working up to 1/2/3 nodes, trying to maintain a tight node spacing for future bud development. Eliminated sucker branches. Released tension wire holding down NPK to get her to catch up with other two. I should have potted up, but plan to tomorrow (Day 2 of Week 1 Flower) to their finishing size of 7 gal fabric pots. Expecting some excellent root growth, resulting in hopefully bigger buds! Mimosa - she was the one to have first caught Powdery Mildew, having accidentally left her outside when I transplanted a few weeks ago. Sprayed her down well with potassium bicarbonate/veg oil/Dawn/water solution. Eliminated PM, but some leaves burned in process. Nevertheless, she bounced back well. She is also the tallest in the bunch at 18" tall. Napali Pink (NPK) - she was added in about a week after the other two; Hawaiian cultivar of Hindu Sun/Kauai Electric/Alaskan Thunderfuck; she is also the most hardiest and was the only plant to not get PM! Attribute that to her tropical roots, making her less susceptible to PM. She is the shortest at 13". Changed out the legs of the plant stand to accommodate and bring her up to same height as others. The Bling - this one surprised me big-time! I was ruling her out initially, after suffering some bad trauma (her main stalk was damaged), which caused her to grow 3-blade leaves! Weeks passed and she bounced back. She also contracted PM, but not as bad. A very lanky strain, with some weird node spacing. Trying to tighten up by defoliating to top node on all stems. She responded well and has since started to grow normally again, with 7-blade leaves.

First off, these plants are no fuss at all! The 3 have shown their cards in my opinion. Early in the week #3 had a pleasant odor and #1 had an odor from a rub. Now all three have a great stem rub odor. Noticeable differences are: #1 looks to be the perfect blend of mom and dad. It should be taller than dad but still bushy and has a great smell. I would say it is aggressive but elegant. #2 has the height difference I was looking for, it has an odor different than mom, bushy and the structure over all is not bad. BUT, if you look at the end of the week top down photo, you can see the longer more spindly leaves on the lower part of the plant. And the 3 finger leaf sets... that is mamma and what I believe is the Auto/Ruderalis poking it's head out. It is not what I am looking for. #3, hell... that's daddies little girl all day long. (hopefully a girl, no sex on them yet) 😂 Regardless of sex, this plant is short, fat, bushy and stinky. Now the next week hopes are that maybe we get to sex them. Once the plants are sexed then the rest of the plan will take shape. They are just cruising right along, I hope the pictures and descriptions do them justice. I have included some other photos to see the full environment. Happy garden over all. You can see that the plants shift a lot. Even if they are not shifted for one reason or another, all but the veggie plants get turned 1/4 turn everyday. I get to see and handle them lovingly every day. Or several times a day but.... 😏 Non stop excitement. I hope you all feel the same with your grows. Thank you for taking a look at mine.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Start of week 3 of flowering for plants 2 & 3. They are showing signs of heat stress, three days last week temps in the grow room reach 35°c. Aside from some heat stress, the plants still look healthy and the bud sites are developing nicely. Light defoliation of each plant, removing the dying leaves and some of the ones showing signs of dying.