2025/02/12: third flowering week is last Orgatrex/Bactrex shot week... I decided to lighten it as I can see lock or deficiencies again. I may flush another time : maybe rain water isn't as good as I thought? Anyway, trichromes are here!

Thats 4 weeks down of flowering now all doing really well, look nice and healthy, all seemed to have now stopped growing in height the biggest is a liberty haze at just over 5ft and close behind 1 of my mimosa evo is just under 5ft, starting to smell nice in my tent now and can really start to see the flowers getting big 😁 , can not wait till these ladies are done so lets hope they dont dissapoint haha, see you next week for my latest update ✌️👊

One of 4 I cut today and by far the sweetest smelling and easygoing grow really I was impressed with how it opened up on its own not much LST needed 🍍⛽️⛽️⛽️🔥

Plants are doing nicely on their own. I have learned to be more hands-off and let them take their own pace. I check soil dryness every few days and add water/nutrients when dry past my first knuckle. Sticking with the same nutrient mix as it seems to be doing the trick. If you watch the timelapse, you'll see a moment of panic when the reflector fell over onto Cheecha. But, in the long run, what doesn't kill them seems to be making them stronger. Cheecha is now almost the same height as her sister Chonga. We're in Fall now, so the room is getting a little cooler, but above 70 degrees F. Humidity is also starting to drop a bit too.

Week 4 flower: all 3 plants left in the tent are pollinated - it's hard to tell to what extent but bud formation has slowed down 😞. Middle plant (Mimosa Evo #2) is definitely the strongest pheno and its trichomes smell like tangerines which is really nice! We did an intense defoliation on Day 24 of flower in an attempt to lower humidity and increase airflow but RH is still dangerously high at 80% because of the current weather. Also gave them a bloom PK top dressing on day 26 because canna coco does not provide a PK boost in their coco nutrient line. Hope to see the buds dense up over the next few weeks without too many seeds ...

Howdy it is day 63 and in 2 days it is time to harvest. Since 2 weeks i feed clear Walter only. They get 16 hours darkness before harvest. All the plants are really🔥 My favourites are still 3G and Wedding Gelato. The smell and Look is crazy. You will see i guess Also North Thunderfuck and Hulkberry is good looking. The weight of North Thunderfuck for the dice is insane. I wish everyone a nice Day and good time. Stay safe 💚

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

best cannabis I ever grew and smoked. Others agree. This is a cup winner I would win with no competition. 3 months harvested, 90% consumed. Will run more genetics and future cross, backcross. Feels like energy drinks, positive, 100% youre high and lit, extreme ripped. Smell is slight citrus, this is very sweet tasting and smelling because of my methods of growing. Oozing sticky like an industrial adhesive. Daytime smoke, ripped no couchlock. For heavy daily smoker this is above your level of comprehension, good luck finishing 0.5g session. 10/10 all categories. 4 months after harvest video macro, this is what 40% looks like

I took these on my Snapchat is why there is so many of them 😅 I'm currently doing the 48 hours of darkness to help produce more trichomes. I did SO MUCH to this plant, it looks like it will DEFINITELY have some weight to it, but you will have to wait until it's dry 😄

* FastBuds Cherry Cola Auto - 10/08 - Week 2 Veg* Coming into week 2 Veg thus far all is moving accordingly - Lite water feeds - Frequent Lite Nute Feeding has started

Day 14 veg: The remaining 4 are doing really well know. Even the #4 has woken up for the fun. 1 is the biggest of the group so far with #2and #3 close behind. #1 is on her 5th node today and I am considering a topping instead of then end over 5 main style i have been trying out. I can afford more height than I thought i could with the autos being slightly smaller than i usually flip them at so grow less in veg. She is also the pot that has the feed pellets in the soil so lets see how she does. #2 is on the outer edge of the light at present but will go under the sp250 soon with her sisters. #3 is a slightly lighter green than the rest so i will watch her in case the pot is not feeding her enough naturally . #4 was the one I wasn't sure would do much but she has settled down now finally andnhss new leaves growing now.i think she will be behind the others in timing only. I am going to germinate the 3 other strains tomorrow to get them into this exotic mix too. Diary to follow !. Be well folks , Welcome aboard and thank you to Exotic for these ladies too.

Still no pictures but plants progressing nicely and is starting to really show different growth patterns

Mar 7 (day 78): Start of week 12. Mar 11 (day 82): Chopped plant.

Hi all👨‍🌾👋 Welcome to my another week update Hope everyone keeping well 🧑‍🌾 Week 6 Mar 8 - Mar 14 It was another easy and exciting week. Everything going absolutely great. Both girls stretched nicely despite selective defoliation on Mar 9. They bounced back almost immediately. Started adjusting mixtures towards removing fish mix completely and replacing with Bio grow. In coming week will adding bio bloom and top max to mixture. There was 2 waterings of 3ltr on Mar 9 + last foliar feeding and second on Mar 13 and it was first large feeding 6 ltr beetwen both. Surprisingly only a few drops of runoff. Watering in stages of approx. 500ml every 20-30min. Decided to not install a scrog this time as want to have opportunity to apply more old school methods of training and to be able to remove/rotate girls easily. Let's see if this will pay me off. So far girls enjoying my care very much 😁🧑‍🌾 Thank you very much for all your likes, follows and comments. 🙏💚❤️💜 Wishing you all amazing rest of the week✨🍀 Peace and love brothers and sisters 👨‍🌾✌️💚 Stay tuned for new week update soon Links https://2fast4buds.com/seeds/TROPICANA-COOKIES-AUTO https://www.biobizz.com/ https://fishheadfarms.com/

I think I will start to flush

hello growmies! day 51 finally the pre-flowers begin to appear. I apologize for the few photos but unfortunately they really filled the box and I find it difficult. overall I have to say they look in perfect shape! I will keep you updated thanks for passing by. like and comment! good day and beautiful growth to you 🌳🌱

Day 16-27/12/21 all looking good!!!! Day 20-31/12/21 still haven’t got space in other tent yet so hopefully can move half of them out this one next week!!!!

.