Transplanted to a 5 gallon pot half way through the week and heavily watered/fed for the next 2 days, then topped for the first time at the end of the week. I used to be so careful about topping plants but it doesn't really matter how heavy handed you are. Now it's about keeping the plants trained and the same height. 2 timelapses this week. Enjoy!

Last week we noticed one of the ladies had begun to show sex. A couple calyxes with barely visible white hairs coming out of them. Seeing as there's no electricity where the garden is located we opted for a 1500 lumen LED lantern, that we turn on at 11:pm every night for about 40 minutes to and hour. This seemed to have done the trick as no more hairs have been seen and the vegging process is back on track.

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Week 17, and my garden is blowing my mind! It's like a botanical fireworks show out there. The buds are popping up like they're trying to outshine the sun. I'm so happy I'm doing the leafy dance of joy every time I check on them. I can't believe how beautiful everything is – it's like my garden is showing off just for me. I feel like a proud plant parent, watching my green babies grow up so fast. Here's to Week 17 – a week of beauty, happiness, and the joy of watching nature do its thing. Cheers to my amazing garden – may it keep on growing and blowing my mind! 🌿🌺

Day 31 of flower Basically the girls are on autopilot, with the autopots and Gaia green there really isn't much to do, both methods are super user friendly and the basic needs that need to be meet are just ph water in the reservoir every couple days and then watch them stack buds on top of buds...Occasionally I move a branch over to another square in the net to make room but Basically after the last top feeding it's just watch and weight, pun intended....

The cannabis plant is in excellent health, showing vibrant green leaves and a robust structure. The overall appearance suggests that the plant is thriving in its current environment. No signs of nutrient deficiencies, or diseases have been observed. A light defoliation was performed during this week. This practice will help the plant focus its energy on the upper buds, leading to better yield and quality in the upcoming weeks. The plant has been fed according to the BioBizz nutrient schedule, specifically following the guidelines for week 2 of the flowering stage. The nutrients provided include BioBizz Bio-Bloom, Bio-Grow, and Top-Max, which have been carefully measured and administered to support the plant’s transition into full flowering. I'm curious to see what will become of the plant. Stay tuned! 🌱🌱

Week 10👍🤙👍🌱 This plant is truly beautiful. It is speaking to me in many ways. I will listen!! Jon Dabs Check them out here: https://jondabs.com @jondabs Instagram The Sponsors Check them out here: Dutch Passion https://dutch-passion.com/en/ Hydroponic.co.za https://hydroponic.co.za/hydroponic/harvesting-and-growing-accessories/ Bud Juice https://www.gohydro.co.za The Best Grow https://thebestgrow.co.za Dynomyco https://www.dynomyco.com Nuclear Roots https://www.nuclearroots.co.za Photronic https://shop.photronic.net Special Thanks to Hydroponic.co.za. I buy all my products from them. Best service. Daily updates coming...

Growing really nice at the min seems like bee growth every day. Will start using nutrients next week. But so far so good.. ..update.. bit of nutrient burn on one of the plants at back but nothing that can't be fixed easily. Considering the heat where I am at the min there doing really well and looking very healthy. There new growth sprouting out everywhere daily. You can't really see from the pictures but when up close u notice it day to day. Can't wait till they start flowering..

Muy buenas a tod@s... Arrancamos la tercera semana de floración de estas runtz x layer cake de barneys farm... La variedad la veo bien, quitando algunas hojas que marcan exceso de nutrientes, la dosis del nutrientes siempre es la misma, intento no pasarme x malas experiencias vividas, aunq tanbm hay que decir que cada planta es distinta y necesita o menos o más, de ahí seguro el "exceso"... Las veo muy fuertes y grandes, se la ve que van bien, tiene buen color, rico aroma que se está ordenando ahora y que irá aumentando al pasar las semanas... Tengo fe, son buenas plantas todas, y están muy bien alimentadas y muy bien cuidadas( amor y dedicación tienen)... 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻⚡⚡⚡🤯🤯🤯 Seguire haciendo lo q mejor me sale, TRABAJAR DURO SIEMPRE! ⚕️😎💎 Buenos humos para tod@s!! 🔥🔥🔥💨💨💨 🇦🇷🤝🏻🇪🇦

Après l’invasion de chenille verte elle repart mais je reste à l’affût tous les jours

Hello. This is the end of week 8 and the beginning of week 9 of flowering. Flushed last week and I'll flush this week too. I like to flush, I get better taste because of it. I'm pleased with this strain. The buds are hard and have a good smell and the plant are holding up their branches covered in buds. I see a couple of branches heading for the floor though. That's my way of gauging how heavy my buds are. When I water later, I'll tie them up. This is the last week for these lovely girls. Smells like metallic skunk with some sweet orange undertones in the basement. But when I touch the buds and smell my fingers, I get more of a sweet musky orange skunky smell. Smells delicious. Not just a straight cat pee smell, but something I might want to smoke, with some flavor to it. I'll post some pictures before I harvest next week. Ok. Be Great. Chuck.

All good

- Week 11 - ----- Day 71 ------ The end is in sight. The trichomes are slowly turning amber/purple inside. and a lot are cloudy. No more fertilizer until harvest day where I will use floranova grow to induce leaf growth when i switch them back to 18/6 with Metal Halide at 600 watts. I'm going to guess day 75-77 harvest. ----- Day 73 ----- Back Wedding Cake was ready for chopping. You can see from the 60x micro more mature amber and drying mature trichomes than cloudy/clear. Front is not, Going to chop day 77. More cloudy/clear and round trichome heads then mature and shrunk. This is a huge yield. not going to guess but Harvest number should be by far the largest I've ever grown. ----- Day 74 ----- Today Im gonna sample the Wedding Cake harvested yesterday. I hope it knocks me the hell out to my couch with a bat to the face of intensity. Time will tell. Probably no update on the high till tomorrow lol. ----- Day 75 ----- Okay, last plant will be done Saturday. Trichomes are mostly ready, 48 hours she's cut worthy. I wont be updating tomorrow, there's no point. Saturday should also have some more of the Day 73 Wedding Cake (from here on known as D73 WC) dried for a better smoke report (yesterday I just passed out) but I don't expect them to be dry for at least a total of 7-10 days and it's day 3 today. (they're fuckin fat and DENSE so it'll be a longer process to remove the interior moisture) Last water feeding for them tomorrow. Next time they're ready for water I'll be feeding FloraNova GROW to assist in the transition back to 18/6 Vegetative 600 watt metal halide that will start the day after harvest (Going to give a full 24 hours after harvesting before changing light cycle. I've learned to NEVER double up stress on plants. It's like breaking the law, you never break another law while doing the first one, it exponentially worsens everything.) After harvest expect a Veg week by week addition to this grow, and then once my lab results come in from Tropicanna I'll set up a distinct diary for it. Then once the Wedding cake is done and results from lab are in i'll do the same. *** Update *** I put the time on for lights at 13 hours today instead of 12. That will continue for 7 days. It'll then go to 14 hours lights on for 7 full days with HID light before switching finally to MH @ 600 watt 18 hours. This is a technique I hypothesis will help ease the transition period back to veg. ----- Day 76 ----- Here's a nug shot. Lied about not updating today. Harvest tomorrow. ----- Day 77 ------ Harvested today. Here's some pics. Fed FloraNova Grow - 800ppm 6.4ph 8 liters to start the reveg journey. Tomorrow i'll be adding a new week - Veg - as lights will be going to 14 hours during that week which I will use as a transition for 7 days before jumping to 18/6 until re-flower in probably October. Harvest info will be 7-10 days from now unfortunately folks. Shits thick and therefore lots of spaces for water to be hiding and needing to be dried before curing. Smoke is real nice. super clarity followed by ocean waves of distraction and spacing out.

This is a project by a friend and me :) He has no experience with it but a garden and I have a lot of experience and no garden :) His 80 year old grandfather prepared the earth for us and I have to say I have never seen such perfect earth. The plants have never shown any deficiency and have consistently performed well. Unfortunately we had to harvest 2-4 weeks early because the weather is too humid and there is a lot of concern about mold. One is currently still in the ground but will be harvested in the next few days. That was great fun!! A big thanks to my buddy and his grandfather ♡ I will grow the strain again in the future as I was very happy with the performance!!

Blüten werden langsam größer ....

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

27/04/22 CONTEST TIME! 😍 I'm very happy to announce that I've been selected for "Best Diary of the Year - Edition 2022" 😍😍😍🎉 Third year as grower and first time with this strain. 🙋‍♂️For those that don't know me, I'm a 100% OUTDOOR grower from Italy, great supporter of efficient and simple things; I love experimenting and always learning for my errors and this what I do also when growing 💪 🌱 The candidate for this new diary is a "Ganja Skunk Auto" by Ganja Farmer Seeds. I would like to thank @GanjaFarmerSeeds for sending me these seeds and allowing me to take part to their contest. I will update the diary once a week and in particular the first day of each week. "Day 0" will be assigned when the first leaves will come out from the soil. #OUTDOORGANG #PRAISE_THE_SUN - DD

Firts diary ! Im excited to see those strain bloom !