Day 57 this little lady last weekend showed up with some burning on the leaves but I’m. Not really sure it was an excess of nutrient, signals of a deficiency of K and P are also visible. So I just gave oh controlled water with regulator and enzym+ and some calmag, now everything looks fine and i ‘ m sure I t will be great this week. Tomorrow, feeding day! Day 59 lady si farting up every day, I’ve been feeding her the last two days. The yellow on the leaves is just because of a water deficiency from the last week, I wanted my lady to absorb everything I gave. On day 57 I gave 1 lt but it was too dry, so on day 58 I gave her another lt and she took it all with PH 6,2 and PPM 1000z I think I’ve got 20/25 day max left so this will be the last week of fertilising from Day 70 I’ll start mi flush. Day 62 today feeding day I finally get my p-boost and k-boost from aptus. She drunk 1 lt with ph 6,1 and ppm 1090 Let’s see🌱🌱🌱🔥🔥

All good was draping a little but just needed water and Nutrients so I watered and fed them

Have her a big defoliating to allow light to the bud sites and to reduce humidity in the tent , she took it well and is growing really fast still. The smell is very old school skunk type smell at this point

This week was cloudy and rainy but it doesn't look too bad. Usually in the fourth week autoflowers start to grow rapidly - time will tell. I watered the plants with water only. Anny suggestions?

Terra : fatta in casa : sabbia di quarzite , torba di felci amazzonice , cocco , e tericcio vergine professionale universale concimato . Vasi standard 11 l fino ad arrivare a 30 l Piqnte e varieta ; 10 moby dick 5 crystal m 5 amnesia xxl 2 mimosa evo 3 glockis 2 avgani #1 3 blu gelato 41 1 gelato auto 20 ore di luce 2 lampade da 600 w 20 h 4 h buio . 50 cm la distanza perche scalda 300 C ° 1,5l di aqua ogni giorno con arancio e limone per i parasiti poi azoto liquido 0.1 x 100 1 l N Fosforo 0.5 x 100 1l P Potassio 1 x 100 1l k Fioritura Va tutto bene non ho molto da dire e tutto nuovo anche per me sto imparando i prossimi diari saranno migliori

Man!!!! I did not expect some bag seeds to be as successful as these, but the seeds I got came from bud I got from the dispensary, my one gallon DWC experiment is great!! It’s not huge but it’s the most potent!! And I did one plant base nutes only and another with all the additives.. the the plant with base nutes only is the biggest!!

I feel sorry for my plans this 2 weeks I haven't been able to look after them properly I've been working long shift with Christmas approaching there's no time for anything so I was pushing in a lot of nutrients into them and I caused a nutrients lockout .I have flush them out with just clean water at the right pH 6.5 and they are responding very well from now on I will continue to Baby them so they gave the best result possible within the circumstances of the plants. Thank you for reading I will continue to update have a happy grow

Smooth sailing, watered once every three days

Harvest in week 12. But I screwed up, I didn't have enough room to separate each variety, so I would put an average weight when everything was dry... I had done everything well, I had to mistake on the place of the drying bag Last pictures, mixed buds

And we are finally in Flower after realizing she wasn’t an auto after all and switching her to a 12/12 light cycle for the past week . We’re finally getting this show on the road lol .

So happy so far Need to. Learn to properly feed next run

the flowers start to smell like banana i never smelled anything like it She also starts drinking a lot now she is a bit bushy but the budsites are still directly in light

Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

All good!!!❤️

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Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

*Note: The wattage listed was incorrect. I used a 360w UnitFarm LED for this grow so the gram per watt figure will be inaccurate. Thank you 😎🙏 🏆FastBuds California Snow🏆 My Setup: Planted into Jiffy Peat Pellet that was hydrated with de-chlorinated water with SuperThrive added then ph'd to 6.0 @ 80℉ where it took 3 days for her to break ground. Grown 100% organic in 4g fabric pot by Gronest filled with Mother Earth 70/30 Coco/Perlite medium amended with (my 'Secret Recipe): 2tbs/g of Down To Earth 4-4-4 / 2 cups/g of Earthworm Castings / 1tbs/g of Dr. Earth Flower Girl 3-9-4, 1tbs/g of Dr. Earth Bat Guano, 3/4 cup of Down To Earth Azomite and 1 tsp/g Down To Earth Fish Bone Meal. 24hr light cycle during Germination / 19/5 light cycle for the remainder of the run under UnitFarm's UF-4000 and UFS3000 LED's which I have to say just blew me away with the results they gave!!! If you're on a budget and want a light that is about as low profile and cool running as they get you really need to check out UnitFarms lights. Believe me... I run a pair of HLG 650R's and a HLG 225 in my 4x8 so I'm no stranger to 'high end' lights but lemme tell ya, these two UnitFarm lights absolutely blowup my 4x4 and don't overheat the tent! She received straight water ph'd @ 6.2-6.8 when needed and weekly Compost Tea's for the entire grow which is one of the beauty's of growing 100% organic, you establish a microbial colony in your medium, then feed the microbes every 3-4 weeks keeping them fat and happy... They, in turn, through their life processes take care of feeding the plant. Pretty freaking cool if I may say so, and there's no simpler way to grow IMHO. This Cali Snow's structure was perfect didn't require me to top or LST this plant, only tucking shade leaves that were blocking light penetration. She grew tall with wide node spacing allowing for excellent light penetration making her a growers dream, low maintenance, extremely tolerant of temperatures and disease/pests ) and a healthy yield of some FANTASTIC smoke...What more could you ask for? 😍💖 All in all, this strain has made it's way onto my 'list' and you'll be seeing it run again by me for sure as she's a hard one to stay away from! I highly recommend this one... Go grab some and put a huge smile on your face too! 😁

I started the week by selecting the 3 best plants to put them into their final 26l pots with some Dynomyco. I made the selection based on their sizes, shapes and roots. I increased the light output from 25% to 50% and started the week with 23h of light per day. After a few days I noticed what I think are light burns on every plants so I reduced the number of hours/day to 18h and it seems ok now. I checked the pH, not optimum but alright for soil and I always have this 7.0 with this soil and this pH meter (don't know if it works properly or not because it's always 7.0 in this soil, never 7.1 or 6.9). The 3 plants grew a lot this week, it's one of my best growth rate so far so I'm very happy 😁 The Wedding Cheesecake is by far above the two others, it already developped 5 nodes so I topped it (first time it happens to me that soon). As usual with this soil, I think they have a bit of nitrogen toxicity but nothing critical. Plants heights at the end of the week : ------------------------------------------- Gorilla Cookies : 18.5cm Purple Lemonade : 15cm Wedding Cheesecake : 22cm

Last watering before 8 Vaca. End of April should be peak harvest time