nice strain with a rich terpene profile! sweet, gelato like, hard hitting smoke! sadly my phenos had no banana taste but still very nice

Segue a floração espero que esses botões engordem bem .

Look how much these beauty's stretch as they went into flower over the moon with the size of these plants

Day 64 - Starting another week and she’s definitely frosting up pretty nicely. He being closer to the light is also helping her fatten up quite a bit. She’s looking amazing! She will be getting another two gallons of water either Sunday or Monday. Day 65 - She’ll be needing some water for sure tomorrow and will give her another light defoliation as well, some of the fan leaves are getting huge and blocking light. Day 66 - Should of gave her some water and nutes yesterday because she was seriously droopy today. She took another 2 gallons of water so she should be perked back up in a couple hours. Other than that, she is frosting up beautifully. Day 67 - She’s really been bulking up lately and she’s perked up after getting some water and nutes yesterday. Did a little defoliating today to get some of the giant leaves off and out of the way. She’s definitely still got a few weeks left so will continue feeding her nutes, at leas for the next couple of feedings and then see where she’s at. Day 68 - All still looks great and starting to smell kinda fruity. Other than that, just watching her chug along everyday. She’ll need some water on Friday. Day 69 - A lot of trichs are really clouding up and everything is looking great with this girl. She’s gonna have nice, fat and dense buds and can’t wait to harvest this girl. Will be giving her some water and nutes tomorrow, the pot is starting to get pretty light. Day 70 - She got her next feeding of nutes today. I thought she could probably go another day but last time I did that, she was really droopy so trying to avoid that.

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme. Rabattcode für den BIOTABS-Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/ GDBT420, damit erhalten Sie 15 Prozent

She is now a skinny 17 inches tall. Defoleated all the bottom crap and cleaned her up. A little newt burn last week at 600 ppm. I have raised ppm to 680 so she may not be happy come the end of the week. She will have to get use to it. I'm sure she will be fine. Added second light, so it should get interesting.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Die Letzte Woche der Blüte mit zufügung von Dünger für die 3 Red Hot Cookies, ab jetzt werden die Mädels nurnoch mit ordentlich viel Wasser gegossen bis zur Ernte. El Patron und Strawberry Lemonade bekommen noch 1-2 Wochen mehr, jenachdem wie gut sie den zusätzlichen Platz ausnutzen sobald die 3 Red Hot Cookies das Zelt verlassen haben. 👍 😁😍

Going into flowering is always a special moment and we prepare to do it in the best way to make the plant understand that it is time to become a woman and speed up the start of the formation of the buds. We start with 24 hours of darkness this to give a strong break and sign of change to the plant that understands the change of time and prepares to go into flowering. Our Purple Urkle was worked with a topping x16 buds that worked really well, we have well aligned buds, only something escapes here and there but it is normal. In purple plants it is very interesting to wait for the start of the flower formation when the buds reveal their color and if we have taken the dark phenoripo, we celebrate. Another thing that gives the plant the signal of the start of flowering are the flowering stimulators we friends of Plagron use Power Buds. The start of the flowering program includes the same additives as the vegetative phase Power Roots, Sugar Royal, Pure Zym and adds the flowering stimulant Power Buds. Now the basic fertilizer is Alga Bloom specific for flowering. Green Sensation will arrive as the hero of the end of flowering and at the same time it will be time to remove Power Roots and a week later the Pure Zym enzymes. It is recommended from the 4th week if the plants flower fast I start at the 3rd depending on the size of the bud. Try a seed of this strain that drives us crazy.. ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11168-zamnesia-seeds-purple-urkle.html Zamnesia Description // A direct descendant of a Mendocino Purps phenotype, Purple Urkle is a high-performance cultivar from Zamnesia Seeds. This feminized, indica-dominant strain is sure to win over any cannabis grower. With a THC content of 20%, Purple Urkle has a lot to offer from seed to harvest and beyond. A grape-flavored adventure, Suitable for indoors, outdoors or in the greenhouse, Purple Urkle is a very resilient strain. Growers will be impressed by how easy this cultivar can be managed. Purple Urkle can reach 120cm indoors and 160cm outdoors, but if you want more control over the height you can use the LST technique. Purple Urkle has fantastic flavors and aromas that intensify during the flowering phase. Regardless of the method of consumption, Purple Urkle offers tangy, fruity flavors that lean towards notes of grapes, berries and plums. The effects of this strain are soothing and relaxing, with uplifting sensations that make the experience suitable for any occasion, whether in a social setting or alone. All the best that mother nature can offer is on ---- www.zamnesia.com

This girl is by far the healthiest plant I have ever had at this stage. By healthy I mean she is the biggest, the greenest, and has the thinckest stem I have grown yet. Today is day 28 from seed and she is as thick as a marker lol. I grow in small 5 gallon pots. My stem is normally as round as a milk jug cap. I feel like this could do better.

Moin, Damit ist die (gezwungene) letzte Vegi Woche auch ohne Zwischenfall vorbeigegangen. Die Zkittlez macht sind bisher wirklich gut, klar erkennbar ist aber auch schon jetzt das es wirklich kein Ertragmonster werden wird. Große Internodienabstände, lichtes Blattwerk, selbst für einen Steckling dünne Triebe. Mittlerweile habe ich auch schon mal ein Scrognetz im Zelt eingebaut um den Stretch etwas entgegenzuwirken sonst wächst sie mir sehr wahrscheinlich durch die Zelt Decke. Generell wird der relativ hohe EC gut vertragen und als einziges Anzeichen kann ich eine Blätter mit sehr leichten Lichtstress (leicht aufgewickelte Zacken). Jetzt bin ich auf die nächstes Wochen mehr als gespannt und hoffe die Reise lohnt sich am Ende. Alles für die Terps! 😄🍃 Hey, The (forced) final veggie week has come and gone without a hitch. The Zkittlez plants are doing really well so far, but it’s already clear that this isn’t going to be a high-yield monster. Wide internode spacing, sparse foliage, and shoots that are thin even for a cutting. I’ve also set up a SCROG net in the tent to help curb the stretching a bit otherwise, it’ll most likely grow right through the tent ceiling. Overall, the plants are handling the relatively high EC well, and the only sign of stress I can see is a leaf with very mild light stress (slightly curled tips). Now I’m really looking forward to the coming weeks and hope the journey will be worth it in the end. All for the terps! 😄🍃

the bud start to fat really fast and the trichomes production is over the top the smell is really sweet n creamy

This harvest was really sweet and I couldn't be happier with the outcome. I was hoping to break a pound but oh well better luck next time. The whole house just reeks 👌. Its for sure obvious we have harvested here , the nose doesn't lie. There will be a whole bunch more of the dry ice hash as well since I still have an abundance of sugar leaves in the freezer just waiting.

Servus Moin! Die Super Double Cherry sieht wieder super aus. Die Triebe sind schön gestretcht, so das ich direkt mit trainieren anfangen kann.

Sie wächst gut habe sie heute getoppt Werde sie Ende nächster Woche auf 12 12 umstellen

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Week 4 Light cycle=18/6 Light Power=120w Extractor controller settings High temp= 25c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 58% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=7 Speed min=1 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=06.00am Radiator on= below 21c Radiator off= above 22c Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=00.00am Radiator on= below 18c Radiator off= above 19c VPD aim=0.6-1.3 DLI aim=28-34 EC aim=1.7 PH aim=6.3 Thur 18/1/24 #2 (Day 22) 📋 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= manual Total volume made=10L Neutralise=0.1ml/L Roots=0.25ml/L Easy Ph down=0ml/L Feed=Water Volume=2.5L Ec=0.2 PH= 6.5/6.6 Time=8.00pm Runoff. Total runoff=120ml Ec=2.28 PH=5.6/ 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 11.00pm Increased light power from 100w to 120w. Fri 19/1/24 #2 (Day 23) 📋 Looks ok Cold spell seems to be going now. Sat 20/1/24 #2 (Day 24) 📋 Lst the 4 colas. H=26cm D=45cm DLI=29.5 Sun 21/1/24 #2 (Day 25) 📋 Broke a cola off and stuck it back on. 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=nutes Test run while setting drip rates. Total volume made=12L Total volume left=1L Neutralise=0.1ml/L Silicon=1.0ml/L Calmag=1.0ml/L Terra grow=3.0ml/L Roots=0.2ml/L Easy Ph down=0.125ml/L Volume=2.75L (Est) Ec=1.7 PH=6.3/6.4 Time=7.00pm Runoff. Total runoff=3L Ec=4.6 PH=5.6/5.7 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Mon 22/1/24 #2 (Day 26) 📋 H=31cm D=40cm DLI=36.2 Raised light 8cm H=31cm D=48cm DLI=29.0 Snapped cola is recovering. Tues 23/1/24 #2 (Day 27) 📋 Wed 24/1/24 #2 (Day 28) 📋 H=36cm D=43cm DLI=32.2 She is doing OK considering what she been through. So the cola I broke off and grafted back on looks like its going to be fine, I'll have to be careful with it from now on. Back soon. Take it easy.

Not much again this week. I guess that's the goal though. No stress no worries. Just good growth. Lots of flower sites on the pineapple express. Very pretty plant but a bit smaller the the strawberry cough. 2nd week of the 12/12 and flowers are showing. Thanks for stopping by. Stay safe😷😷 Grow well 🌱🌿🌱