Nov 24 2022 Started LST last night, a tad late but no big issue I hope. Moved grow cycle time back and hour and a half. Light were shutting off at 12:00AM, I couldn't do consistent foliar spray at night (was in bed) Shifted to 10:30PM OFF, 4:30AM ON It was 12:00AM OFF and 6:00AM ON Plants are a vibrant green, thick strong main stem 5L Grow bags have arrived in the mail finally Nov 26, 2022 Watered and fed Tommy and Danny 1tbsp per 1L of water Both plants were bone dry 2 inches down

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

Week 6 Dec. 9 - Dec. 15, 2019 Dec. 11, 2019 They were moved into the tent late in week 5. They took a couple of days to get back to normal... had some drooping leaves for a couple of days... ended up raising the light to 24", it started out at 18". Continued to LST and some defoliating. Late last week I broke the main stem of ZK #3 attempting to train it toward the edge of the pot. It was hanging by a thread... freaked the hell out, grabbed the closest tape to me, you'll see that in the pic lol. It was a metal tape for duct work hehe. Noticing as the babys get further into flower they are getting THIRSTY, I'm up to watering them about .5 gallon a day. You'll see in the pics I LST'd 2 plants the same and one differently. Regarding this strain I'm not sure what method a working better.

Missed a week posting. I feel like the buds are forming slow. I have a lot of leaves that are blocking bud sites but am hesitant to cut too much.

Day 105 - Next will be the last week of the lady. I'm planning 3 days of plain water and then other 3 days of darkness and no water to frosten up the buds 🤞🏼

Hola and straight back to budiness 🐴 Thanks KANNABIA for seeds and fast delivery. Always nice to work with professionals 😉 Wasnt that long summer holiday for boombox. Doesnt help to hold your fart after shit is in pants. No crying will help so new seed to soil and i have good feeling this is going to make until end 🤝 Next warrior is from KANNABIA. Welcome Swiss dream rose auto cbd to challenge. There was 2 bigger seeds so i plant the one thats in middle at picture. Straight to soil. Same 7l pot. Different color. Hit couple times around stonehenge with wooden shovel. Water from broken glass. Ofcourse dome until it germinates and clay pebles to surface. Like last time i watered 0.5l from top and 1.5l to tank. Should be enough for 3 weeks. DLI 21 when it reach surface. and only i can do is wait and wish God Luck for myself, boombox and Rose🍀 With Medical Hopes 🍀

Any questions guys just ask away, I know I don't fill out these things the way your supposed to but I would rather give you the information on a video, plus Veg is always yh e boring stage anyway. Happy Growing guys

Going well

Nice color

Hey So I had to harvest a little earlier now because I'm going on vacation, so I'm done with everything 2 weeks before :) It was quite easy to grow it has a very strong smell and generally a strong effect it tastes sweet/sour/woody It is sticky and the buds are quite heavy I harvested 146.5g dry weight from a plant :))

Leaves are changing, and doing out. Trichomes are starting to get cloudy, as well as the hairs turning orange and curling.

All the same from my diary from Thc Bomb exempting the pest ....the pest where fine on my obi-wan until I put end-all on my Thc Bomb after its 👀 liked to move into my obi-wan so obi-wan add the same little treatment with end-all For this week fertilizers I’m gonna go 1/4 of recommend strength for hydro ...I do have sign of little over fertilizer on her but I’m not worry I always been pushing my fertilizer really high when growing indoor and never add bad results , just need to know when to give them a little slack/ brakes 😉 Need theses thing gone before next week 😡 the pleasure of growing outside

1 Tag nach dieser Blüte Woche 80 % der Tricome milchig trüb. Nun sind es noch ca 10 Tage bis zur Ernte. EC Werte 1.4 während dieser Woche mit max. Düngemenge nach Hesi Schema. Temperaturen 0 Grad draußen mit aktiver Zuluft .... im Growraum daher etwas kälter mit ca. 23 Grad während dem Tag und 16-17 Grad in der Nacht. Umluft Max stufe um Schimmel keine Chance zu geben. Luftfeuchtigkeit während der Nacht Max. 46 % RLF und 36 während der Beleuchtung. Buds fühlen sich fest an und riechen sehr stark

Week 4 update! 🌱 Week 3 is done, and the ladies are now three weeks into their flowering phase. So far, everything has gone really well. However, one bud and the plants in the front showed slight signs of potassium overfertilization, which likely caused a calcium uptake issue and led to minor necrosis. No worries, though – today I completely flushed the entire system and replaced it with a fresh solution. With this reset, everything should be back on track 💪💧. On top of that, I decided to bring out an old Cree& Osram LED lamp as a booster. This will provide the two smaller front plants with more light intensity so they can metabolize the higher nutrient levels more effectively 💡🌿. Everything is looking great so far! Stay tuned, follow along, and let’s see how this journey continues 🌺📸. Woche 4-Update! 🌱 Woche 3 ist geschafft, und die Ladies sind jetzt drei Wochen in der Blütephase. Bis jetzt lief alles super. Eine Bud und die Pflanzen vorne zeigten jedoch leichte Anzeichen von Kalium-Überdüngung, was wahrscheinlich zu einer Kalzium-Aufnahmehemmung geführt und leichte Nekrosen verursacht hat. Kein Grund zur Sorge – heute habe ich das komplette System gründlich durchgespült und die Lösung durch eine frische ersetzt. Mit diesem Reset sollte jetzt wieder alles reibungslos laufen 💪💧. Außerdem habe ich beschlossen, eine alte Cree& Osram LED-Lampe als Booster herauszuholen. Damit bekommen die beiden kleineren Pflanzen vorne eine stärkere Lichtintensität, damit sie die höheren Nährstoffwerte besser verstoffwechseln können 💡🌿. Es sieht alles richtig gut aus! Bleibt dran, folgt mir, und lasst uns schauen, wie sich die Reise weiterentwickelt 🌺📸.

So far it looks like I have control of the nute burn looking at the fan leave not burning/changing anymore. Started finish but started at 5pm and my led goes off at 6pm. I kept flushing till 6:20om but stopped due to the fear of the ladies herming, revegging, or anything that would cause my ladies to start off week 7 on a slow/bad start. Defoiling a little but mostly real bad burned fan leave because I believe your ladies will continue to try and repair them which pulls energy from bud developement. Flushed on 6/1/22 and ended on 6/2/22 all 3 ladies ppm is under 200 so I can make sure they have enough to ripen and fatten up. On week 8, I will do a ice flush and then 2-3 days of darkness while they freeze. Checked trichomes on 6-5-22 and some show maybe 10-20% on some colas. Will harvest all 3 on 6-12-22 probably in the morning which I seen and heard it is better because at a certain time in the day marijuana plants let out moisture and you want to keep as much of that as possible.n

The week went uneventful the plant is doing what it's supposed to be doing. The wifey is doing a great job in taking care of the plant while im travelling. Introduced Hess's PK 13/14 from the last feeding. PPM remained flat at 900 and will now gradually increase the PK 13/14 over the next weeks. Looks pretty good from what I can tell by the pictures I received. Still a bit of tip burn so, will decrease the base nutrients a little as well over the next few weeks.