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The zipper in my tent broke i will need anew one for next grow.... ph pn also missing so gonna have to collect some cash if possible. Og kush is so frosty and citrusyn gorilla melon is like (yeah I know ya smell better but I got buds fat as an arm) I dont care i love together kush from the first time I saw it and even tho I vegged it for like 6 weeks she turned out little. Till I get a new tent and ph pen I can't grow so im not sure if I'm not gonna have a break for a wek or two, I will post harvestof both and weight and of course pics. Peace and love One last feeding flr gorilla and then water instead it won't yellow so and still see white pistols sknim gonna give it a go 1 more 800 pm feed
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Healthy plants. Most starting to show their sex.
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@Moss420
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Got hydro halos setup because I need to be able to go away for work for a few nights, Was actually really easy to setup and works awesome, I got most the parts plus all my nutes from my local hydro store. I'm using cocoforcannabis.com as a guide for most of this grow and his site includes details on how to setup an auto watering system. At this point I'm still using Professors Go Green for cal-mag and following the GP3 feed chart to mix nutes to the right ratio and then diluting with cal-mag water to target EC (300-400EC for wk 1). Some of the plants had clawing leaves and were really dark green - I read that this could be caused by nitrogen toxicity and I'm concerned this may be due to the Go Green as it seems to be intended as more of a deficiency fix rather than a regular use cal-mag supplement for coco. Some of the leaves on one of the plants started getting rust spots like calcium deficiency, Canna Coco comes pre-buffered and I was adding Go Green so it had plenty, I think the likely case is that nitrogen toxicity may be blocking calcium intake also. I intend to change to Green Planets Pro-Cal which has low nitrogen and is made to work with their line of nutes. Also we named the girls! My roommate and I were pretty baked if you can't tell...
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@Ciocanna
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The last week of vegetation is already ending. Starting from day 60, I switched to a 12/12 hour light regimen.
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After seeing more serious grows have issues will flipping buds I trellis’ed. Happy to fill out the screen but I had crawling to feed starting this early
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Not much to say....happy growing
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Sorry I only have two pictures today but it really isn't much to see. She's still in half veg half bloom mode. Soon she should be loading up. Either way I will be uploading this entire grow journal to my YouTube channel which is easy to remember. I am Ben and I chase big budz. Ben Chasin' Big Budz Hope to see you there
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@Dunk_Junk
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Grown 23cm this week! Entered flowering also!
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@CalGonJim
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1/12 4:14AM MONDAY!!!!!!!! CBG IS GOOD!1 LOWERD THE WATTAGE, EFFICIENCY IS GOOD. GREAT WHITE MYCO HAS INCREASED UPTAKE AND AND!!!! PHOTOSYNTHESIS EFFICIENCY ......FUCKING AWESOME 💪💪💪💪 1/12 4:47AM I asked GROK: are samsung leds on my mars hydro lights seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says, I lowered the lights again by a few watts? Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/13/26 7:47AM BRUTAL WEEK FOR THE MOP AND BUCKET GUYS AT MUDRUROS COMPOUND 1/13, 11:22 AM banana purple punch auto RF three is doing really great. I haven’t really needed to do anything. I decided not to top. I didn’t want to do anything except light stress training. I think she’s gonna turn out just great. Her stock is one of the thickest. She’s just perfect.😍😍😍
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@Pozzy67
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4/4/2022 After being gone for 2 weeks on a vacation with the family! I came home to an out of control jungle! These girls exploded with growth! I had to do a heavy defoliation and lollipop! I turned the light to 80% and it’s about 26 inches away from the top of the tallest plant.
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Semana 5 Del 30 de noviembre al 6 de diciembre Seguimos con el mismo sistema que hemos utilizando hasta ahora. 3 de diciembre Realizamos transplantes a macetas de 7l. Como podeis ver en las fotos las raices son una locura y tienen todo el sutrato colonizado. Utilizaremos cocogen de la marca progen (que es el que hemos utilizado en todo el cultivo hasta hora) para el transplante a maceta definitiva, 100% coco, previamente humedecido con agua + ryzofuel. Aprovechamos para quitar algunas hojas de la parte de abajo y eliminar algun nudo. 5 de diciembre Cambiamos el periodo a 15 h y 30 min para que vayan sexando. Realizamos riego, esta vez le metemos agua + 1gr•10l de vegetative growth de grotek porque es algo que me gusta mucho como funciona, le da mucha fuerza de cara a floracion a la planta. Regamos con 0.5l por planta PH: 6.2 EC: 0.4ms Sera el ultimo riego antes de pasar a floracion que sera el 7 de diciembre.
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@MG2009
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05/01/2021 Better pics coming in the morning, bringing her outside for natural light see how she looks. I never realized how frosty she is, and still believe her to be the lemony lime pheno, which will be great for my outside grow! Two clones taken one for outside one to keep as a mom.
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Hi guys, just a quick info for whoever read this diary: I started this run with two plants but during Week 9 (57 days: 49 vegetative + 8 flowering) I had to remove the one on the right due slow growth (issue started after I topped her). Enjoy the reading. 🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱 Third run begins. 🍪🍦Cookies Gelato by RQS, my first time with photoperiods. I created this diary at the end of January but due some problem with the new drip system (too ph oscillations), I decided to go back to my first love: the DWC. This time, however, I decided to build my own DWC, taking into account the negative aspects that I find in the expensive DWC of various brands. This tank has about 50 liters capacity and on the bottom I have inserted a metal tap that will help me with the solution changes. The lid is made up of two parts, the upper one on which I made a hole in which I inserted a 2 liter planter full of expanded clay and the two root riot; the front part of the lid is magnificent because it opens and allows me to do a quick check of PH and EC. This time I'm going to count the days from the germination date. I'm going to VEG for about 40 days, then switch to 12/12 for about 70 days. I plan on topping the plants during week 4, then defoliation + SCROG during week 5, switch 12/12 during week 6. Then lollipopping at the end of the stretch. In this run I will use my new MARS HYDRO TS1000 2022 (already have one with 2021 MOSO driver), bought a few days ago to test the latest model with the proprietary Mars Hydro driver. I'm sure there will be further improvement in my performance 💪. No sponsor for me yet, what I have is what I bought but I hope someone can help me to bring my crops to the next level. I'm planning to buy a new 90x90 tent and a nice 300/480 watt lamp would be very nice. Crossed fingers! 🤞 🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱GERMINATION STAGE🌱🌱🌱🌱🌱 - 20/2/23: seeds in a glass of demineralized water, 2 drops of rootbastic and 3 drops of hydrogen peroxide for 24 hours, then in root riot; - 21/2/23: seeds under TS1000: 100 cm distance / 33% dimmer = 50 watt; - 22/2/23: first Cookies Gelato sprouted; - 23/2/23: second Cookies Gelato sprouted. - Got some gift from RQS, really appreciated. I'll consider tomorrow as 1° day of veg for all 2 seedlings. I'll switch 'em to 12/12 after 40/45 days of veg.
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Commencing Week 8: day 50 on January 19th Update is late my sincerest apologies. I will make it up by giving a very thorough smoke report when all is done. Otherwise all is going very well 😁😁👏👏 On day 50 I took the head off of bloody skunk. I checked trichome colors under USB microscope. At least 90% fully milky-white with maybe 5 or 6% Amber and the remainder clear. 😁 On day 55 I gave all of the plants a fan leaf trim including the remaining bottom half of bloody skunk. as I sit here and think about it I believe this will help with ensuring the entire plant ripens and matures at the same time - versus the tops being ready before the bottoms. I still plan on letting the bottoms of all these plants go way beyond the recommended time to see if I can initiate the process of rodelization. Either way I am glad to report that Bloody skunks pollenization looks like it is resulting in some seeds. (See photo). In hindsight my only concern is that because the plant finished a bit earlier than I expected the seeds may not make it to full maturity but I believe it should be okay we'll just have to wait and find out. That being said besides the bloody skunk being done just a few days early everything else seems to be right on time as described in plant profiles on company websites.👍 That's all for now thank you for your patience and attention and support and as usual feel free to leave any suggestions comments or questions and I'll do my best to get back sooner rather than later 😁
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She's a very demanding plant. In addition to these listed nutrients I'm also using an organic mixture as well at full strength and she seemingly wants more lol. Very interesting plant indeed. Her buds are becoming dense and look more advanced than what usual week 4 flower looks like so she will most likely finish in maybe 7-8 weeks I assume. Very nice smell and resin production. Temperatures are very much different than usual here in the caribbean. Nights stay cool and day temps have soared for the month. Damn global warming!!!!!!!!!! On a positive note she's still doing well with no signs of heat stress and by next week I expect even more rapid production as she approaches the end of mid bloom. Stay with me, she's gonna be nice and until next week................ #HappyGrowing
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@G_abitbol
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To me it looks like ready for harvest even thow I still have new pistils on main cola. I will flush one last time today. I will let the earth dry out and as soon as the leaves start to drop I will put into darkness for 48 hours and harvest. I think its good to give the plant a more natural rhythm as soon as you start flushing at least I have the feeling that it smells stronger now.