She is now coming into preflower and loving the new T5's. She is growing nice and bushy with future tops shooting for the stars. The stretch is definitely near. She will continue to be tied down and has been pruned and defoliated as needed to give her that sexy shape i want her to have in flower. Her terpines are beginning to be noticeable and is of lemons, earthy notes, and loud gas. She is now also getting kelp extract added to the nutes. She is growing very nicely and i could not be happier at the moment. So far OSSC has my attention as their phenotypes have been very nice.

D35: strain is very fast not sure how soon harvest will be but it'll be around day 50 I'm assuming. Nice colours from the recent cool nights. Buds are nice and look very easy to trim. Comparable so far to a few of the other ones I've grown like the Big Kush.

Filter sock clogged up again, I just took the whole filter off, I'm not worried about the smell as it's outside in my shed anyway. Still warm and dry out this week, humidifier barely lasts 24 hours and that's just to keep the RH above 40. Trichs developing nicely, few more weeks to go for sure.

Esta semana hicimos poda de bajos a podas las puntas y una poda de bajos a todas las ramas , se recupera muy bien de las podas la Jack está semana ya arrancamos de a poco con los fertilizantes de flora , así hacemos el último trasplante a 10 litros para pasar a flora , yo creo q ta esta más que bien para entrar en floración ya , pero quiero hacer el último trasplante antes , vamos a ir viendo como vienen las siguientes semanas

Another great looking plant from Barney’s. Everything from them I have grown has been strong and large and I would say very much commercially viable. I’m sure you could grow 20-30 plants and get a really good pheno with good structure and it be dank. Some breeders you could grow thousands of plants and never get one with good structure. That’s not true with Barney’s they have really good genetics

Turned off IR @ nights Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is far superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison to synthetic delivery, which causes plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing, regenerative cultivation. ATP is king above all else when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" (active) nutrient uptake. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. If that makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic methods because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversions. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. Corporate interest sells you the other 3-5% NPK & all the rest in RATIOS! Why not throw the 3-5% in a pot, and focus your energy on the other 95-97%? Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

Questa settimana sta andando bene i fiori stanno diventando più grandi, sono tutti pieni di resina ma sono comunque ancora piccolini, speriamo che ingrossino ancora 🤞🏻 Aggiornamento 17 Novembre: Oggi ho aggiunto una nuova luce di supporto appositamente per illuminare i fiori che sono più indietro rispetto agli altri. La lascerò accesa h24 per vedere se può cambiare qualcosa, nel frattempo alcuni fiori sembra che stiano iniziando ad ingrossare e ad unirsi.

Man it’s so hot these girls are drinking up so much water!!! Watering everyday. Might be Sweet skunks last nutrient dose, gonna start flush for harvest after today. Plants are starting to fatten up nicely, hopefully we keep this same progress!

week intel: its time to harvest some of plants the ones that is mature enough. indica dominant plants will done first always so we should harvest them first because my base nutrients and one of boosters was salt based, i'll do flushing this week to get some relieve to plants in the last days stresses : flushing Drought stress via watering only one time with flushing this week feeding: day 1 : i flushed them with Advanced Nutrients Flawless finish and adjusted ph day 3 : no more feeding from now on day 5 : no more feeding from now on guide of the week : i harvest in 2 parts : first i harvest top of the branches and will let the lower buds to ripe another week then ill harvest the second wave. indica dominant plants will get done 1 or 2 weeks sooner than sativa dominant plants that will often takes more than 8 weeks so be aware to harvest them sooner. my dry and cure style is this: 3 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 3 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. im happy as hell with this harvest :D.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la cuarta semana de floracion de estas Lemonpaya feminizadas de fastbuds. Vamos al lío, de las 3 plantas, me quede con 2 por espacio, siempre pongo alguna semilla de más por si no abriese alguna por no perder ese hueco del indoor. También se trasplantaron a su maceta definitiva, en este caso de 7 litros que además provocó un shock que también solucione. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. Las flores empezaron a formarse y progresan a buen ritmo. No entiendo que a sucedido , uno de los 2 ejemplares tiene un bloqueo severo de nutrientes, estoy controlando el Ph correctamente y la alimentación ración pues corte a ver si vuelve a reestructurarse. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Sie ist soweit. Die Farbe ist intensiv und sie richt verdammt gut. Zum schnellen trocknen im Zelt, habe Ich jeden Zweig einzeln aufgehängt und versucht die Relative Luftfeuchtigkeit zwischen 58 - 62% zu halten und die Temperatur unter 18 Grad Celsius zu bekommen. Sobald die Stängel knacken schneide ich die Buds runter und lege sie im Zelt in Pizzakartons damit sich die Feuchtigkeit gleichmäßig verteilt.

It’s the end cutting tomorrow it’s been a nice run these girls are beautiful I’ll be baby with dry pics and harvest

Week 15 (23-9 to 29-9) 23-9 Temps: 20.5 to 25.9 degrees Humidity: 52% to 71% 24-9 Temps: 19.2 to 25.2 degrees Humidity: 51% to 64% 25-9 Temps: 19.2 to 25.1 degrees Humidity: 47% to 72% Watering: 2000 ml. 26-9 Temps: 19.9 to 25.1 degrees Humidity: 61% to 74% 27-9 Temps: 17.8 to 25 degrees Humidity: 54% to 75% 28-9 Temps: 18.9 to 23.9 degrees Humidity: 51% to 69% Watering: 2000 ml. 29-9 Temps: 18.4 to 23.3 degrees Humidity: 53% to 70%

I love how this girl is turning up and her smell is so sweet. I am happy that I lollipop to her for the airflow.

Hoping I see a second stretch out of her

I had to add some support. Especially plant 2, the mainlined plant, is getting some crazy large buds and needs help keeping them up. It seems the mainlined plant is handling the heat better. But she is also getting less direct sunlight which seems to be good for her.

Experiment failed; unable to control the staked arms. Allowing them to become main stems. Expecting a dozen colas. Yellowsticky traps capture hundreds of thrips. She is just beginning to become a girrrrl.

Day 22. Girl is getting somewhere ;)) Finally got fan and he is noisy, so no wind supplement for this girl ... Planning to water her today . 50 ml of 6.3 pH water will go in. Last video when i turn pot upside down, if any roots will appear - i will write here. Day 26. Side branches started to grow, no sex signs yet .... Day 27. 70 ml 6.3 pH water in. I got my "in" too ;))) Happy Growing !!!

Day 46 Start with 3ml/l Ripen