Hacemos domingo 4 mayo te aireado y echamos 22 gr de top dress

Week 2 of Flower 🌺 . Went a little heave on the nutrients smh burned some the leaves . But besides that she’s doing well . Going to give some plane watering in hopes of combating that .

Last year I’ve tried my first Blueberry’s family strain ever, the Blue Cheese. I loved her. One of the best high I’ve ever had. Since then, I decided to try them all. I chose this strain because she is almost 100% indica and because I wanted to do a RQS only cycle, and unfortunately they didn’t have the original Blueberry (please RQS, add her to the catalog!!!). By the way, although I have two Blue Mystic, only this one has her own diary. Her sister is similar, but located at the opposide side of the box. Well, they have been the first, together with the Gorilla, to show pistils and then create the first small flowers. Couldn’t be happier, especially after the problem (with a defective digital timer) that caused the flowering phase to delay by 2 weeks. I’ve just removed some lower leaves that coudn’t get the right amount of light, and since the soil was a bit dry, I’ve given 500ml of water (and nuts) more. Because of the delay (in which I’ve started giving bloom nuts), I’ll have to give them “week 3” nuts for two more weeks, maybe reducing by 50% the B-52 and Big Bud dosages (they could be a little too much). See you next week buds!! Cheers ☀️

I love this strain. The color, the size, easy to grow. LSD-25 is just an exciting plant, beautiful purple shows up early, buds are a beautiful dark purple. I would recommend everyone tries it.

Ya visteis , cultivo fácil, de principio a fin, pocos errores una pérdida tan solo de 4 ejemplares y por dejadez. Pero enserio si todo se hace correctamente vais a flipar lo rápido que van y después lo buenas que están. Humedad en el secado por debajo de 45% y temperatura media de 23 grados. Hasta aquí es todo fumetillas, que paséis un final de año de lujo entre buenos humos.

Added Exhale c02 and top dressed in each pot with 1 tablespoon per gallon of growing medium my pots are 3.6. I added 3 tablespoons. It is my hopes that with adding the slow release dry amendments and once the c02 bag sarts growing my plants will finally grow. They are short but have 4 nodes at day 21. What is an exhale c02 bag? “The ExHale bag is a patented strain of mycelium that produces an abundance of CO2 without fruiting. This means that when our bag is activated, the mycelium grows, eating the substrate it comes with, giving off heaps of CO2 straight into your garden, and it does all this for 6 months - guaranteed!” At day 25 I am not impressed with the size of these girls? Hope they hit a growth spurt soon? Their internodes are stacked very nicely. At day 28 growth is very slow. Practically none existent since my top dressing at day 23. 2 plants have received a very minimal nutrient burn. As I do not have a soil ph tester? I will be watering with a ph of 6.0 rather than 6.5, hopefully that helps. ONWARD!

04/28/2020 Week #8 of flowering begins will post more pics latter. 04/29/2020 Did some leaf removal had some powdery mildew on some leaves took infected leaves off, plus some for good measure. Drying out every day or two today she took one liter before run off. You can see in the video the colors? And sparkling buds? 04/30/2020 Day 50 I decided to take the top buds in pics , 47 grams wet. It is a 9-12 week strain but I think she need a week or two? But we will see.

Die letzte Woche ist angekommen jetzt heißt es nochmal kräftig spühlen und dann ist Ernte. Die Farben einfach wunderbar und der Duft ist atemberaubend.

This was an incredible cultivar! She put in fat Buds in a timely manner and ripened pink and teal buds. The aroma is no compromise either. She has floral citrus top notes and skunky back tones. Out of the 4 testers I did this round this one seems to be the one for yields as well. It's a win win with this strain. Great creation from Fast Buds

We did a 9 week veg on this Raspberry Boogie. Came in week 2 and did major defoliation and lollipop. Just beginning to stretch internally space is decent im expecting UFO bud structure. Instagram @mackeys_grove

Day 20 Of Veg Watered once in the past week

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Alien OG Autoflower grew great, and finished beautifully. Strong smell, frosty, and sticky. She grew great under the Mars Hydro FC4800 light. It was my first time using the Gen 1:11 nutrients. I really like them, and will use again till I run out or get more. She will hang dry 24 hours then be put into the cannatrol for a 8 day cycle. I got a great grow to try it out the first time. 🤞. Thank you Aeque Genetics, Gen1:11, and Mars Hydro. 🤜🤛🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Welcome to week six! 🌱 Week five was a complete success – all parameters are perfectly aligned. I’ve increased the water conductivity to a solid 3000 and bumped the CO2 level up to 1200 🌿. Light intensity is now set at 1400 µmol in the center and 1000 at the edges, which will keep the plants strong in their generative state 🌞. I’ll maintain these levels until the end of the third week and then start slowly removing the large fan leaves to ensure the buds get plenty of light 💡✨. I’m also trying something new to activate the “Emerson effect” 🌄: I’m running the deep red lights for 5 minutes before sunset and for another 5 minutes after the day ends. This should give the plants a final boost in photosynthesis, helping to maximize their growth potential! Everything’s looking fantastic so far! The Black Cherry has rooted well across different experimental setups, and at the end of the grow, I’ll provide a full report on the best care techniques for both strains 🌺👌. Willkommen in Woche sechs! 🌱 Die fünfte Woche lief perfekt – alle Parameter stimmen. Ich habe die Leitfähigkeit des Wassers auf satte 3000 erhöht und den CO2-Gehalt auf 1200 angehoben 🌿. Die Lichtstärke beträgt jetzt 1400 µmol in der Mitte und 1000 am Rand, was dafür sorgen wird, dass die Pflanzen stark im generativen Zustand bleiben 🌞. Ich werde diese Werte bis Ende der dritten Woche beibehalten und dann langsam damit beginnen, die großen Sonnensegel zu entfernen, damit die Blüten ordentlich Licht abkriegen 💡✨. Zusätzlich probiere ich etwas Neues aus, um den „Emerson-Effekt“ zu aktivieren 🌄: Ich lasse das tiefrote Licht 5 Minuten vor Sonnenuntergang und 5 Minuten nach dem Ende des Tages weiterlaufen. Das sollte der Photosynthese einen letzten Schub geben und das Wachstum der Pflanzen maximal fördern! Bis jetzt sieht alles fantastisch aus! Die Black Cherry ist in verschiedenen Versuchsreihen gut angewachsen, und am Ende des Grows werde ich einen ausführlichen Bericht darüber abgeben, wie sich die beiden Sorten am besten pflegen lassen 🌺👌.

sound week on the soil. this grow is really lovely. starting to see some promising bud sites. I think i might trim too much but i want the buds to get the light. topped them and they recovered very fast. still yet to see some purple. dont want to mess with pH just yet

5/10 Got up super early for wife's appointment at 7 came home and transplanted 4 of the purple punches. Transplants went good. Soil was too dry and a couple fell right in the hole but I was messing around showing my dad. It just got dropped in the hole a little harder lol. The other that happened to is fine though. Definitely make sure your soil is moist enough before transplanting. My transplanting technique for 3 gallon is to put soil on bottom. Set cup in at appropriate distance then replace cup with plant with soil filled cup and fill around it. Leaves the perfect hole. Then you just snip the cups twice on each side, peel it down and fold the cup down and cradle the bottom and in the hole it goes! Holes have mykoscand a little like water. I water a little after transplant. I misted soil whole mixing it up. 5/11 Dad left the windows open last night "because the soil smell was bothering Lynda." I couldn't ficking believe it. They were all fine when I got back but still. Everything is transplanted into 3 gallon containers bit that 1 purple punch that is a little bit dwarfed. I looked at the bottom of the cup and drainage wasn't as good. Must've been the last cup and the jail didn't go all the way through in a couple places. I increased the drainage on that little dwarf and I'll transplant it when I get time. We are going to have some good weather coming up. I need to get my cage moved, my bags sanitized and get on a good watering routine. UPDATE: Went back over at four and everything's dry as fuck but the leaves are uo and every one of them looks happy so I'm holding off watering. I'll start with a quart probably tomorrow. Also cleaned out tge cage and secured the handles to move it. Only thing left is cleaning and sanitizing. These girls have a south facing window and they LOVE it. It was 80 today. I hope we have an early season. 5/12 Transplanted the last purple punch today. I could easily tell the problem was drainage. It was the last cup I had stacked when I drove the nail threw so it didn't pierce all the way the the other slips and tac holes apparently weren't enough. Used mykos and same soil mixture. Soil was extremely dry. I lifted a pot with dry soil and these were heavier. Commercial buddy said to start with a quart a pliant and see how it goes but I kind pussed out and only gave them 24fl 0z a plant. Half the quart. I asked if I should water more and he said to just wait and see how they like this water and up it to a quart next time maybe quart and a half. Im just leery of overwatering. When i watered SOME of them the water literally just sat there and took forever to absorb. Plants werent wilting though. Soon theyll be going outside during the day and in mdoors at night. UPDATE: Went back over at two and everything looks AMAZING. Healthiest looking plants I've grown. Leaves all pointed up. I'm taking my commercial dudes advice and hoping the water next watering. For now, they're doing amazing. 5/13 Everything is doing greatcso far. Gotta figure out when to start nutes. Considering adding silica but don't want to raise ph to much. I'll consult with others but my the soil blend I'm using is full of nutes. 5/14 Rushed morning and I wanted to water bit the plants looked great still. Sticking my hands deeper I can feel a little moisture deeper down or in the drain holes so I decided to give the blueberry cheese and the 10th planet a "touch of kindness" which was a small circle of water from a small watering can around the outside edge of whete the rootball should lid be. I'm working on getting a watering g schedule down. UPDATE: Went back over at five and everything was looking good with leaves praying. Maybe my half measure helped. Doubtful but still. Tomorrow I plan to water. Since the soil has tons of nites ill probably hold off a little while longer before starting the nutrient schedule. I want to make sure I've got the watering down first. One thing at a time. 5/15 The 10th planet and Blueberry Cheesecgot their first REAL watering since transplant. Still being cautious I watered 28fl Oz a plant. I phed the water with an indicator solution and ph down. I gave the purple punches a "cup of kindness" which was a circle of water around the transplant hole. Can't waif to get a watering schedule down. I wanted to start nutes but my soil is full of them and i believe it's too early. I didn't see ANY run off from this watering. I think that's good as I'm not looking to wash away the nutes in the expensive soil I use. I need to start HST as well but I'm doing things proper and "one at a time". That way if I run into a problem I'll know what I did and how to rectify it. At least I hope. UPDATE: Went back over at 3 leary that I may have "overwatered" but the plants ALL looked AMAZING and had shot up like an inch! Looking into hst and will probable fim a few. Top a few and leave one to grow naturally. Can't wait to see how these girls do outside. 5/16 Wow. Just wow. Plants are doing phenomenal! Since the watering went really well I watered the purple punch bit I only used about 16fl Oz as the plants were a little smaller than the others. I'll up it to a quart next time like I did with the others. I want to USE the nutes in my soil so im not washing them all away by watering to run off. I topped 2 10th planet's and FIMed one of them. I want to see how the respond then I'll begin training the others. Off to a Great Start! 5/17 Glad I held off watering. It's raining today. Just showers. We haven't gotten any of that extreme wind we usually do. I have the plants supported but I still worry. Definitely more than I should. Plants are still doing good and acclikatimg to their new homes.