The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@FairyFarm
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The banana mango must be on roids! It’s doubled the size Of the others. If you are looking for a desert plant that handles 100plus F without being bothered - this could be your gal!
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Added nutrients to top off reservoirs everything looks good …I am content so far with testing will be dropping light schedule to 11 on 13 off to accelerate bud development hopefully shortening flowering time
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What's in the soil? What's not in the soil would be an easier question to answer. 16-18 DLI @ the minute. +++ as she grows. Probably not recommended, but to get to where it needs to be, I need to start now. Vegetative @1400ppm 0.8–1.2 kPa 80–86°F (26.7–30°C) 65–75%, LST Day 10, Fim'd Day 11 CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity): This is a measure of a soil's ability to hold and exchange positively charged nutrients, like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Soils with high CEC (more clay and organic matter) have more negative charges that attract and hold these essential nutrients, preventing them from leaching away. Biochar is highly efficient at increasing cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to many other amendments. Biochar's high CEC potential stems from its negatively charged functional groups, and studies show it can increase CEC by over 90%. Amendments like compost also increase CEC but are often more prone to rapid biodegradation, which can make biochar's effect more long-lasting. biochar acts as a long-lasting Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) enhancer because its porous, carbon-rich structure provides sites for nutrients to bind to, effectively improving nutrient retention in soil without relying on the short-term benefits of fresh organic matter like compost or manure. Biochar's stability means these benefits last much longer than those from traditional organic amendments, making it a sustainable way to improve soil fertility, water retention, and structure over time. Needs to be charged first, similar to Coco, or it will immobilize cations, but at a much higher ratio. a high cation exchange capacity (CEC) results in a high buffer protection, meaning the soil can better resist changes in pH and nutrient availability. This is because a high CEC soil has more negatively charged sites to hold onto essential positively charged nutrients, like calcium and magnesium, and to buffer against acid ions, such as hydrogen. EC (Electrical Conductivity): This measures the amount of soluble salts in the soil. High EC levels indicate a high concentration of dissolved salts and can be a sign of potential salinity issues that can harm plants. The stored cations associated with a medium's cation exchange capacity (CEC) do not directly contribute to a real-time electrical conductivity (EC) reading. A real-time EC measurement reflects only the concentration of free, dissolved salt ions in the water solution within the medium. 98% of a plants nutrients comes directly from the water solution. 2% come directly from soil particles. CEC is a mediums storage capacity for cations. These stored cations do not contribute to a mediums EC directly. Electrical Conductivity (EC) does not measure salt ions adsorbed (stored) onto a Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) site, as EC measures the conductivity of ions in solution within a soil or water sample, not those held on soil particles. A medium releases stored cations to water by ion exchange, where a new, more desirable ion from the water solution temporarily displaces the stored cation from the medium's surface, a process also seen in plants absorbing nutrients via mass flow. For example, in water softeners, sodium ions are released from resin beads to bond with the medium's surface, displacing calcium and magnesium ions which then enter the water. This same principle applies when plants take up nutrients from the soil solution: the cations are released from the soil particles into the water in response to a concentration equilibrium, and then moved to the root surface via mass flow. An example of ion exchange within the context of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is a soil particle with a negative charge attracting and holding positively charged nutrient ions, like potassium (K+) or calcium (Ca2+), and then exchanging them for other positive ions present in the soil solution. For instance, a negatively charged clay particle in soil can hold a K+ ion and later release it to a plant's roots when a different cation, such as calcium (Ca2+), is abundant and replaces the potassium. This process of holding and swapping positively charged ions is fundamental to soil fertility, as it provides plants with essential nutrients. Negative charges on soil particles: Soil particles, particularly clay and organic matter, have negatively charged surfaces due to their chemical structure. Attraction of cations: These negative charges attract and hold positively charged ions, or cations, such as: Potassium (K+) Calcium (Ca2+) Magnesium (Mg2+) Sodium (Na+) Ammonium (NH4+) Plant roots excrete hydrogen ions (H+) through the action of proton pumps embedded in the root cell membranes, which use ATP (energy) to actively transport H+ ions from inside the root cell into the surrounding soil. This process lowers the pH of the soil, which helps to make certain mineral nutrients, such as iron, more available for uptake by the plant. Mechanism of H+ Excretion Proton Pumps: Root cells contain specialized proteins called proton pumps (H+-ATPases) in their cell membranes. Active Transport: These proton pumps use energy from ATP to actively move H+ ions from the cytoplasm of the root cell into the soil, against their concentration gradient. Role in pH Regulation: This active excretion of H+ is a major way plants regulate their internal cytoplasmic pH. Nutrient Availability: The resulting decrease in soil pH makes certain essential mineral nutrients, like iron, more soluble and available for the root cells to absorb. Ion Exchange: The H+ ions also displace positively charged mineral cations from the soil particles, making them available for uptake. Iron Uptake: In response to iron deficiency stress, plants enhance H+ excretion and reductant release to lower the pH and convert Fe3+ to the more available form Fe2+. The altered pH can influence the activity and composition of beneficial microbes in the soil. The H+ gradient created by the proton pumps can also be used for other vital cell functions, such as ATP synthesis and the transport of other solutes. The hydrogen ions (H+) excreted during photosynthesis come from the splitting of water molecules. This splitting, called photolysis, occurs in Photosystem II to replace the electrons used in the light-dependent reactions. The released hydrogen ions are then pumped into the thylakoid lumen, creating a proton gradient that drives ATP synthesis. Plants release hydrogen ions (H+) from their roots into the soil, a process that occurs in conjunction with nutrient uptake and photosynthesis. These H+ ions compete with mineral cations for the negatively charged sites on soil particles, a phenomenon known as cation exchange. By displacing beneficial mineral cations, the excreted H+ ions make these nutrients available for the plant to absorb, which can also lower the soil pH and indirectly affect its Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) by altering the pool of exchangeable cations in the soil solution. Plants use proton (H+) exudation, driven by the H+-ATPase enzyme, to release H+ ions into the soil, creating a more acidic rhizosphere, which enhances nutrient availability and influences nutrient cycling processes. This acidification mobilizes insoluble nutrients like iron (Fe) by breaking them down, while also facilitating the activity of beneficial microbes involved in the nutrient cycle. Therefore, H+ exudation is a critical plant strategy for nutrient acquisition and management, allowing plants to improve their access to essential elements from the soil. A lack of water splitting during photosynthesis can affect iron uptake because the resulting energy imbalance disrupts the plant's ability to produce ATP and NADPH, which are crucial for overall photosynthetic energy conversion and can trigger a deficiency in iron homeostasis pathways. While photosynthesis uses hydrogen ions produced from water splitting for the Calvin cycle, not to create a hydrogen gas deficiency, the overall process is sensitive to nutrient availability, and iron is essential for chloroplast function. In photosynthesis, water is split to provide electrons to replace those lost in Photosystem II, which is triggered by light absorption. These electrons then travel along a transport chain to generate ATP (energy currency) and NADPH (reducing power). Carbon Fixation: The generated ATP and NADPH are then used to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates in the Calvin cycle. Impaired water splitting (via water in or out) breaks the chain reaction of photosynthesis. This leads to an imbalance in ATP and NADPH levels, which disrupts the Calvin cycle and overall energy production in the plant. Plants require a sufficient supply of essential mineral elements like iron for photosynthesis. Iron is vital for chlorophyll formation and plays a crucial role in electron transport within the chloroplasts. The complex relationship between nutrient status and photosynthesis is evident when iron deficiency can be reverted by depleting other micronutrients like manganese. This highlights how nutrient homeostasis influences photosynthetic function. A lack of adequate energy and reducing power from photosynthesis, which is directly linked to water splitting, can trigger complex adaptive responses in the plant's iron uptake and distribution systems. Plants possess receptors called transceptors that can directly detect specific nutrient concentrations in the soil or within the plant's tissues. These receptors trigger signaling pathways, sometimes involving calcium influx or changes in protein complex activity, that then influence nutrient uptake by the roots. Plants use this information to make long-term adjustments, such as Increasing root biomass to explore more soil for nutrients. Modifying metabolic pathways to make better use of available resources. Adjusting the rate of nutrient transport into the roots. That's why I keep a high EC. Abundance resonates Abundance.
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BB2 and GG2 showing widely scattered amber trichomes on the main cola mostly. Neither tent has a strong smell yet. Not the most fragrant strains, from what I'm reading. Learning to use my USB microscope for trichome pictures. Difficult to hold steady for good pics in the tent. Don't want to pull pots out anymore. Tips for better trichomes pics would be greatly appreciated!
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Beautiful Pheno. Stacked with trichs! Definitely huge appeal! With a slight sour worm/super c terp profile.
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6.6 D66 - Hail satan motherfuck3rs 6.7 D67 - 6.8 D68 - Just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing just keep growing 6.9 D69 - 6.10 D70 - 6.11 D71 - 6.12 D72 -
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12/25/2023-Germination Day 1 Merry X-mas 2023 I decided to start a run of SolFIre Gardens Hoodz Candyz S1. I am going to do a cup filled with RO water a touch of Hydrogen peroxide and let it sit for 24-48 hours until I see tap root then I am going to put it into a rapid rooter.. Tap root Down and put it about 1/4 of the say down the Rapid rooter. I made some modifications to my basket on this run.. I have taken a few Pods that I use for my cloning machine and decided that I am going to try and use them as sure plants, so that I can take my water right up to the bottom of the basket this time and see if these can make my planting more consistent.   12/26/2023-Germination Day 2 Tap root achieved Planting Commencing 12/27/2023-Germination Day 3 Misted the dome lightly misted the rapid rooter and added a little water to the bottom of the pan to encourage root growth to the pan. 12/28/2023-Germination Day 4 Ground Hogs day 12/29/2023- Germination Day 5 She is up, she has broken surface, I misted the root riot, and around the bottom of the tray to try and entice root growth down rapidly. 12/31/2023- Germination Day 6 Ground Hogs Day 1/1/2024-Germination Day 7 HAPPY NEW YEARS!!.. I did it I planned it out so my planting day would fall on New Years and it worked.. Yay!!! 1/2/2024- Germination Day 8 Since the roots are not to the water yet, I am pouring one cup of water lightly on the hydroton around the lady to try and encourage root growth down to the water.. 1/3/2024- Germination Day 9 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. 1/4/2024- Germination Day 10 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/5/2024- Germination Day 11 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I am going to change the water Sunday and kick off Week 1, I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/6/2024- Germination Day 12 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/6/2024- Germination Day 13 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. 1/7/2024- Germination Day 14 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water.
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Hello everyone! this week, I had to do defoliation all the same .. on that girl I was not going to touch .. the fact is that there were a lot of leaves .. too many .. it was difficult for the plant to breathe .. in short, I did defolation and also took advantage of the fact that the plant itself made a topping))) and with the help of the LST I took 2 central branches to the sides .. from today I will decrease the light regime gradually .. I hope this will help the plants show their gender as soon as possible ..
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Processing
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week 7 first flowering week when I finally discovered my princess was actually a prince. 12/12 flowermind ferts (6ml + 0.5g) LST + defoliation started seeing some thrips again, but just a few, nothing to worry so, the plant stayed for 4 weeks in the tent, under COB LED 200W.
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Not a lot to report for this little lady just made sure the runoff was the same ppm and ms readings as plain tap water so good look to everyone else in the Dutch passion growing competition and until next time ✌️ out my fellow Growmies 🙏🤞👍
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@fabialien
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Semana 7 de vida, seguimiento de lunes a lunes. Lunes 19 agosto 2024, evidencia de una semana transcurrida, en la cual proporcionamos terpinator a todas, purpinator solamente a Purple cherry de Positronics, a las otras 6 alimentamos con Armor Si. Próximo riego será de Bases PH perfecto de Advance Nutrients a todas.
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@Sators
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Well. All growing cycle long watering with ph balanced clear water. We used our own super soil mix. In final results we get 138gr natural, 100% organic nuggets. Perfect seed supplier and perfect final. Smoke taste good and effect is light. Perfect chill after long working day. Many thanks Royal Queen Seeds and specially Jams. They know how to make us happy.💚
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Started the flush a few days ago. Wish I had set up a second scrog. The branches are falling over under their own weight - hence the makeshift netting.
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🍼Greenhouse Feeding BioGrow, Bio Enhancer & BioBloom ⛺️MARSHYDRO The ⛺️ has a small door 🚪 on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ MARSHYDRO FC 3000 LED 300W ☀️Also special thanks to VIPERSPECTRA P2000 (200W) & XS2000(240w) LED growlights 🌱GANJA FARMERS
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Original Sensible Seeds - Frosted Guava 🍈 Enjoy - Week 10 👨🏻‍🌾☀️ - 25-28 grad Celsius - 55-60% humidity level - 20l Air-Pot (75% BioBizz All-Mix, 25 % BioBizz Worm Humus) - RO-water (PH 6,25) Day 68 🌳 - heavy defoliation - soon flower 💐 Sanlight Evo 3-60 40%: about 500 PPFD Spider Farmer Glow30 6h/18h on
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8/10 Hurried morning. Today was water day and the hose fucked up. Dad got it working while I filled half the jugs needed with water and the requisite amount of plant doctor. I gave the preventative dose (which is 1/2 tsp per gallon but I upped it closer to 1 tsp per gallon) on the plants that have received the three full treatments, the 10th planet in the middle and the chemdog. The rest received their last full dose. I had watered the NATURAL mk ultra and other tenth planet yesterday so I'm waiting until tomorrow when the need water to give them their treatment. Other than the 10th planet I'm worried things are going pretty good. Tjat's probably tine too. I certainly wouldnt have even noticed it a few years ago. I only bought like half the amount of soil as last year and really tried keeping costs down. These aren't the biggest plants I've grown but I'm grateful for what I have. I'm working hard to get the most out of them I can. I'm planning to give it a few days and then feed later in the week. EDIT: I THINK I got my grow question deleted. Finally. It's strange that I didn't get ONE outdoor growers response. Doesn't matter. I figured out the best course of action. I'm lucky. Or maybe I just work hard. I defoliate twice a day. I have some pruning to do on the interior of a COUPLE plants. I've cleaned them up pretty good this year. No signs of ANY wpm which is great but suprisinging considering the rh and the rolling fog most mornings. 8/11 I gave the tenth planet in the back and the mk ultra I didn't get yesterday. The mk ultra got the preventative dose (upped from 1/2tsp to 1tsp) and the 10th planet tge full dose. I'll have to check but I think this is the last cure dose for everyone. Found a pillar INSIDE a bud on the special kush that's far ahead. Then you can see on the video a HUGE cut worm or something on the branch I pull down. Luckily I saw it. Wasn't there when I got back but it took a few bites. Looked on the camera and saw a bird swoop in and grab him. Thank the lord! It's going to be 100° today and tomorrow with heat advisory in effect. I'm going to have to treat these plants for pests/pillars some how. I might just use BT and my super alkaline water. The septoria is under control and I'm just afraid spraying anything would make things worse. I'm certainly jot going to let them eat my early flowering plant. I can't apply ANYTHING in this heat. I'll research and maybe if it gets low enough tonight I might be able to do something. I'm going to go back over and check that plant going branch by branch. That one 10th planet tgat WAS the biggest plant is severely stunted amd has some "strange" looking leaves. I wasthinking about getting it off property or just chopping and burning but I figure it's been in there long enough that the others could be infected. I think it spreads through pests if that's the case then it might be better to get rid of it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'm going to stop and try to get some mulch today. EDIT: I found a place I can get a bale of straw and I think I'll use that to mulch. It's almost a 100°. After killing the pillar this morning and missing that cutworm I came back over to REALLY look at the special kush in later flower. I looked through every branch and every bud. I found four pillars on that plant. No REAL damage yet and extremely small. I had to pull buds apart to find them. It's like they were hiding from the heat. That was miserable hand picking them in 100° degree weather. Luckily the bird feeders are close but the bigger birds chase the smaller ones. The smaller birds have found a new food source and perch on my cage waiting. I'm leaning towards treating the flowering plant with BT-k. Seeing that tge citric acid WON'T kill fungus I'll just use OUR super alkaline water and hope for the best. Nothing will get treated during this weather. 8/12 IT reached 105° yesterday and I had a family medical emergency. Came over this morning to several plants drooped right over despite me checking MD day and them being fine. Phone dodnt charge so I couldn't get pictures. Watered everything but the ones that got it yesterday cause they looked good and still had weight. I had to leave before the ones that were down could pick back up. The kush plants seem to tolerate this heat much better. Beside the ones in the 10s tge others are taking this hear fine. I'll update when I get back. EDIT: Went back over around 10. Another hot day. Suppised to be HOTTER than yesterday. I don't know how that's possible. both our thermometers went to 104 lately. Oh and I dont think that's beet curly top virus I think it's just great stress! I've grown this strain before and it's not the most resilient but it's other qualities make up for that. That's a loud off. I checked most buds on the plant in late flower and found a grass hopper IN the cola! No damage that I could see and I flicked him in the head which killed it. I came back to the chemdog that I didn't water drooping. I watered that and the 10th planet I didn't get this morning. The only one that hasn't got water today was the natural mk ultra and when I was there it was still heavy and looked really good so I left it. I'll have to come back around four and check things out. I'll be watering that tonight for sure. It will be hot tomorrow too then it will be better weather. I need to feed but I'm uncertain whether I should in this heat. All the kush strains I'm running are have Hindu kush as a parent and seem to be able to take the heat no problem. We don't get heat like this usually. It's different when it's 100° and 99% rh than dry heat. Edit #2 WENT BACK OVER AROUND 3:30PM EXPECTING TO WATERING THE ONE PLANT I HADNT. THE MK ULTRA THAT I LEFT NATURAL. IT LOOKED GREAT WHEN I GOT THERE AND WAS STILL HEAVY. IT LOOKED BETTER THAN NORMAL. ONE SIDE HAD A FEW LEAVES THAT WERE STARTING TO DROOP BUT ITS RIGHT WHERE THE SUN IS HITTING IT ON TH BOTTOM. ITS JUST A LITTLE HEAT STRESS. THE 10TH PLANET ARE MORE PRONE TO HEAT STRESS. I NEED TO FEED. I DEFOLIATED QUITE A FEW LEAVES TODAY. IM RUNNING OUT OF LARGE FAN LEAVES ON MY PLANT IN MID FLOWER. EVERYTHING SEEMED TO START MAKING LITTLE ROCK HARD BUDS ALMOST OVERNIGHT AND THEY ARE STARTING TO SWELL. PLANTS NEED NITROGEN I THINK. I USED LESS SOIL AND WATERED MORE. I JUST DONT WANT TO FEED DURING THIS HOT WEATHER. TOMORROWS THE LAST OF THIS HEAT WAVE AND THEN ILL BE ABLE TO GIVE THE GIRLS A GOOD FEEDING. THE SILVER LINING TO THE PATHOGEN THING IS THAT IVE BEEN MUCH MORE COGNIZANT OF LEAFING THE PLANTS AND REMOVING DEAD AND DAMAGED LEAVES. I'VE DONE A MUCH BETTER JOB WITH THAT THIS YEAR. AFTER THE HOT SPELL ILL GET IN WITH SHEARS AND PRUNE OFF LARF. IVE GOT SOME BUT I HAVE MORE I NEED TO GET. 8/13 IT was supposed to be HOTTER yesterday than the day before bit it was the same 104°. Today is supposably the end of this ridiculous heatwave. I watered everything that needed it despite having watered deeply yesterday. I put 8 1/2 gallons into the garden where it needed it most. Chemdog and the big 10th planet I got yesterday. Soil is still wet and the bags are heavy. I can't believe how well these kush plants hold up to the heat. Hopefully better Temps tomorrow so I can feed. In other news I haven't been seeing septoria leaves. Less and less everytime I go over! Keeping my fingers 🤞. 8/14 Last of the hot days. Watered the chem dog and the big MK ULTRA. It's supposed to rain today. The rest of the plants are heavy amd doing good. I'll update when I can write more. UPDATE: MY SPIDEY SENSE STARTED TINGLING AND I SAW THE TEMP WAS OVER 90° SO I WENT AND CHECKED THE GIRLS. THAT MONSTER 10TH PLANET WAS STARTING TO DROOP. THEY BOTH ARE A LITTLE HEAT STRESSED BUT WE ARE SUPPISED TO GET THUNDER STORMS AND MUCH MILDER WEATHER. I DID SOME SEFOLIATION AND PRUNING WHILE I WAD THERE. MY FEAR OF SEPTPRIA HAS LED TO ME BEINGVMUCH MORE DILIGENT IN PRUNING AND DEFOLIATION. I PLAN TO FEED TOMORROW AND DO SOME MORE PRUNING OF SMALL SHIT THAT WILL JUST GET EATEN OR INFECTED. PLANTS NEED TO BE FED. ILL NEED TO WATER TOMORROW IM SURE SO I ASSUME ILL BE FEEDING. I WANTED TO SPRAY BT TONIGHT BUT ITS TO HOT. I HOBESTLY BELIEVE THE BIRDS AND MY MANUAL INSPECTIONS HAVE BEEN DOING PRETTY GOOD. WISH I HAD A BLACK LIGHT FLASHLIGHT. THATS A GOOD IDEA! MAYBE I COULD EVEN GET ONE OF THOSE ONES THATCWORK ON FUNGUS AS WELL. I SAW A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOKED LIKE MITES HAD FED ON THEM. I FOUND ONE SO THERES GOT TO BE MORE. THE THING IS THOUGH....WHERE "I" GROW ITS REALLY HARD FOR A MITE INFESTATION TO TAKE HOLD. THE WINDS TO STRONG, THE TEMPS AND WEATHER TO UNPREDICTABLE AND THE FALL PREY TO NATURAL PREDATORS. AT LEAST THATS BEEN MY EXPERIENCE IN THE PAST. IM NOT SURE IF BT KILLS MITES. ILL CHECK. IF NOT ILL KEEP AN EYE OUT. HONESTLY, ITS OUTDOORS BUGS ARE GOING TO GET ON MY PLANTS. I DEAL WITH IT APPROPRIATELY. THIS WAS A SMALL BOTTOM BRANCH THAT GOT PRUNED ANYWAY. NOT A SPIDERMITE BUT STILL. FOUND A REAL SPIDER WHILE LOOKING FOR PILLERS AND HAD TO EVICT HIM. HIS WEBS LOOKED EGGECTOVE BUT I DONT WANT SPIDER WEBS ON MY PLANTS. HE/SHE DESCENDED VERY QUICKLY ON A WEB TRYING TO ESCAPE. NO DICE THOUGH. I APPRECIATE AND THANKED HIM FOR HIS HARD WORK HELPING KEEP MY PLANTS PEST FREE. EDIT #2 I doubt many people read what I write but I've been rereading some of it and there are so many typos I appear dyslexic or to have a severe learning disability haha. Words are missing, letters are missing and sometimes sentences just don't make sense. Oh well. I'm not changing it. If you are able to decipher my notes congratulations! 8/15 We got NO rain despite other townsfolk near us having thunderstorms. Watered everything in the garden but the chem dog and 10th planet I watered yesterday. Everybody got a gallon but the big mk ultra got closer to 1.5. I fed them this morning with a quart. I could probably up the dose but this seems to work. I have some other defoliation to do. I see some small white specks. Mites. Just a few bottom leaves. I picked then off. I'll watch it and I'll be spraying SOMETHING soon. I was planning BT-k but if I have other pests I mat need to use something else probably Dr. Zymes. I'm more worried about pillars than a few bottom leaves that have a couple on them.
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This week I transplanted my little Strawberry Banana girl to a Big Girl Bed-LOL. Seriously though, I transplanted her to a large garden bed as opposed to 5 gallon pots like I usually do. I wanted to give this plant all the room she need to grow her very best. I'm curious to see if having a larger grow area will produce a larger plant. I am thinking more room for the roots to expand. My plant did not grow very much in height but the width of the leaves did grow. Weather has been very nice here this week.