sound week on the soil. this grow is really lovely. starting to see some promising bud sites. I think i might trim too much but i want the buds to get the light. the Pineapple Kush is sadly a bonsai in all of this lol. you will see it in the video. will just let it grow.

Day 43 : Watering with co2 tab / 5L. Also added food again because i think they need it. Increased ppm to 850. Maybe the next one will be pure water. Ventilation works all the time when lights are on. Temp and humi are stable and this is good for the girls. 4 cm in 3 days and stretch almost finished, time for production. Patience is the key always. Also removed some burned leaves from all ladies. Her smell is lemony and look forward as fuck for this one. Edit (Day 47) : Watering with co2 tab every 5L. I watered with juices again at 850ppm because i felt that they need it. Only DsD drank pure water because of burns. Blue Cheese smelling very lemony and citrus. She will be very stinky. Started to fatten. Grow 4cm in 4 days. She likes juices also.

I know you shouldn't really be defoliating when auto plants are in flower but I had to clear a path for airflow around the bottom of the plant because humidity is high because of the summer months apart from that she is going from strength to strength couldn't be happier would definitely grow Dutch passion again

This little one gallon girl is pushing along nicely. I'm shocked that aside from the yellowing leaves, which I believe was just a bit of a nitrogen deficiency, she seems to be the healthiest of all of my plants. My other 3 autos have had low soil pH issues recently, which has caused a nutrient buildup in my root system, but I think this girl has been blessed with that extra bit of runoff, and from also being watered daily, giving the roots no time to dry out. Loving the structure of these colas though, they're really filling out, and a lot more time to go! Excited to see what she'll bring to the scale :D

WC1 - 579g wet weight WC2 - 559g wet weight

Week 7 here and so far so good. Next week I'll add Ripen to my feeding schedule

Y hasta aquí, el corte última semana ya de todo el proyecto, solo queda tijera en mano y esperar para catarlo. Os muestro mi zona de trabajo en un video 🤷‍♂️ Para mi consumo justo

Day 37: The girls have fully recovered from the nute-burn and they seem to grow fine, but a little slow. I am getting use to this slow-growth, and hope I will soon have learned enough to make no mistakes, and get a "normal" grow

Nice start of flowering

This attack of the clones is coming along nicely. Cant wait to see this all SCROg'd out! I am going to do a few things differently this time around. I am going to deliver more foliar sprays to this group and see if it helps in growth. I also FIM'd the shit out of each top on each plant. Lets see what that does.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

Not going to grown this one so soon. There are plenty of better option from this seed bank. Could not reach buds as good as they ones from hulkberry. It's a bigger plant with more banana like buds and not so dense and round. But still a strong high and enjoyable smoke.

Привет садоводы вот и заканчивается история с Strawberry Chemdawg OG я остался очень доволен , мне понравилось какой она выросла очень хорошая генетика очень плотные цветы, легкий маникюр,очень сладкий запах Красавица опять выросла Благодарность SSSC за предоставленный генетический материал { Ребята вы супер ! } И благодарность всем, кто следил за этой историей !

Everything is going good happy with the progress, I flipped the lights about 5 days ago and put another net up yesterday just to see the stretch progress, I started to use bio bloom and bio topmax with feeds. Hopefully I start to see some little buds forming. 😃

Welcome to 📅Day 15 of veg 3/29/2021 she is fully recovered from my micro top and growing fast under the MH TS 1000. I'm not going the change much at this point nutrient wise as she is doing good and she is still small. Update 📅Day 17 of veg 3/31/2021 well it looks like she is growing fast and strong I'm very happy with the MH TS 1000 I have high hopes. I decided that at this point I can increase the light output to 60% that gives me a LUX of around 20,000 LUX 💡. The light intensity is much higher then the AGLEX at this point now with the AGLEX light not able to hit 20,000 LUX 💡 without the bloom switch on and I am going to wait till next week for that Update 📅Day 19 of veg 4/2/2021 she is growing fast and I'm very happy with her progress. I installed the trellis net just above the canopy and over night she is through it lol. Can't wait to see how she does in flower under the Mars Hydro TS 1000💡, at this point I wish I had 2 TS 1000💡 so I could just run them. that's it for this weeks updates as as always Happy growing🍃 and keep you stick on the ice 🏒

Leaf striped this one early Comping my Runtz muffin gonna Leaf strip on Week 2 Flower

All is well here in week 10 although I'm starting to notice some possible nutrient burn or deficiency. Some of the foliage on plant 2 and 4 are looking a little rusty speckled. It's probably too late to correct the issue but if anyone has any advice on that I'd much appreciate it! Plant 1 is starting to do her thing, she's definitely stunted and may take an extra week or two to finish out guess we'll see! I've started late bloom feeding schedule which consists of 1.5 grams per gallon of B1&B2 as well as 3 grams per gallon of FullTilt from FloraFlex.

Day 57. Cold week, going fine.