The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@w33dhawk
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03.08.21 Moin Growmies hab mir in der letzten Woche Gedanken gemacht zu meinem Vorhaben mit den Tomatenringen und mir ist aufgefallen das die Ladys nicht Grad gleichmäßig wachsen ,das liegt sicherlich daran das ich Depp wieder schlauer sein wollte und ein paar Seitenäste dran gelassen habe sprich beim ersten topping hätte ich alles entfernen sollen bis auf die 2 Triebe von der 3. Nodie und ich hab die 2 nodie mit stehen lassen weil ich dachte ich bin schlauer 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬ich könnte mich selber schlagen für die Dummheit naja Ergebniss des ganzen ist ungleichmäßiges Wachstum somit kann ich die Sache mit den Tomaten Ringen vergessen.......... Hab jetzt aber mein System noch einmal überarbeitet andere Topferhöhung ( 2x alte Bilderrahmen aus Holz auf Paletten Balken geschraubt und mit Hühner Draht bespannt das ganze auf Steine gestellt damit ich ne Wanne darunter stellen kann für abtropfwasser) den Rahmen vom scrogg netzt wieder raus gesammelt und neu bespannt ( Rahmen 90x90 cm aus nem alten Pavillon Gestell zurecht gesägt und mit Zaun bespannt die Abstände zwischen den einzelnen Rauten beträgt 6 cm sollte ausreichend Platz für die Triebe sein) habe das ganze gestern auf einer Höhe von 16 cm über dem Topfrand eingebaut mit Kabelbindern an den Zeltstangen befestigt somit hängt es an seiner Position fest und kann nicht von den Pflanzen hoch gedrückt werden wenn sie in die Blüte geht. Also is nun doch wieder ein sqrogg draus geworden aber den Ladys geht es insgesamt gut sie wachsen und gedeihen und wirken insgesamt gesund in den nächsten Wochen werde ich nun die Ladys in das netzt weben und Mal sehen was sie von scrogging Alla Milchschnitte halten. Ach ja die purps aus dem Garten sind anscheinend direkt nach dem umtopfen in den Stretch zur Blüte gegangen war ein bisschen spät dran fürs raus setzten aber lässt sich jetzt nicht ändern Mal sehen was draus wird,vll ja ein Gummibärchen Baum 😏😉 hab den outdoor Ladys gestern nen kleinen Regenschutz gebaut, is nicht der schönste aber er sollte seinen Zweck erfüllen damit der Topf Mal abtrocknen kann das Wetter ist seit fast 14 Tagen hart wechselhaft und der Topf noch nicht 1x richtig trocken gewesen das war's eigendlich was bis heut passiert ist cu Growmies und euch noch viel Erfolg........
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Its that time of week again for our weekly update. I'm more than sure now that this is a photo seed rather than an auto seed, it's still continously growing rapid and big but no sight of flowering at the moment, I may have to give it another week or 2 before I switch the light to 12/12 to start her flowering stage. But so so pleased with her progress.
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Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ______________ 📅 D43/B06 - 28/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.1 pH: 6 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D44/B07 - 29/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.2 pH: 6.7 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 Seaweed 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D45/B08 - 30/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.2 pH: 6.7 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D46/B09 - 31/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.2 pH: 6.2 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D47/B10 - 01/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.4 pH: 6.4 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 60% 🌊2L 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D48/B11 - 02/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.2 pH: 6.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Put some buds under the net 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D49/B12 - 03/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.2 pH: 6.4 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 80% 🌊6L 🍗 CalMag, Bloom A-B, Big Bud, Bud Candy, B-52 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video
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Como mencionaba en el 1er video por intensas lluvias y vientos, la planta más grande se ha partido, intente "repararlo" pero será cuestión de días para ver si ha sobrevivido o no. Por las dudas he regado( a pesar de la lluvia) 1ml x litro de agua. La cantidad de la misma fue de 3litros con flora booster.
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Una maravillasa genética, para mi me gusta mucho seguro la repita, tiene un fuerte olor muy rico entre cítricos y terroso me encanta
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Thank you. Gave her a cocktail to help with stress. Added 1st net for lateral support, not so much now, but for later. Blue light is absorbed by photoreceptor proteins called phototropins, which trigger a hormonal response that causes cells on the shaded side to elongate, making the plant bend toward the light. Try and fill this side a little. She is quite big already, just needs to find her stride again after the undue torture. 5 apex stems with 20-30 mini cola, let them develop a little, with the apical dominance shattered, all those 20-30 will all compete with each other as soon as that stretch is initiated. Key to a good stretch is making sure the plant is cycling efficiently, with large ATP conversions occurring lights out. For now, I'm keeping light intensity high. A plant will slow its vertical growth in very high light intensities, leading to a more compact form with thicker stems and leaves. This response is a protective mechanism against light stress, which can damage the photosynthetic apparatus and lead to symptoms like leaf scorching, yellowing, and brittleness. Instead of growing taller, the plant invests its energy into creating a more robust, stress-tolerant structure. Providing plants with necessary antioxidants helps protect the photosynthetic apparatus by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause damage from excess light. UV light exposure can impact the xanthophyll cycle by either enhancing its photoprotective role or causing damage, depending on the intensity and type of UV radiation. UV exposure can trigger the synthesis of more xanthophyll cycle pigments to increase the plant's capacity to dissipate excess energy, but it can also cause direct damage, particularly to Photosystem II, and may lead to a decrease in the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) which indicates a reduced capacity to dissipate excess energy. Plants can respond to UV stress by increasing the synthesis of xanthophyll cycle pigments, such as violaxanthin and zeaxanthin, to improve their photoprotective capacity. UV-induced changes in xanthophyll cycle pigments can be linked to a plant's overall tolerance to high radiation stress. The xanthophyll cycle helps protect against photoinhibition, which is especially important when the plant is exposed to high levels of both UV and visible light. High doses of UV radiation can directly damage photosynthetic components, including the proteins, lipids, and pigments in the thylakoid membranes. Exposure to UV radiation can have a mixed effect on the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) of the xanthophyll cycle pigments. In some cases, UV can inhibit the conversion of violaxanthin to zeaxanthin, resulting in a lower DEPS ratio and a reduced capacity for energy dissipation. However, the total pool of xanthophyll cycle pigments may increase, and this enhanced pool size could provide a greater potential for photoprotection despite a lower DEPS ratio. The xanthophyll cycle works alongside other mechanisms, such as the accumulation of flavonoids (UV screens), to protect the plant from UV-induced damage. Blue light repairs 100% UV-induced damage in plants through a process called photoreactivation, which uses a light-dependent enzyme called photolyase. This enzyme uses energy from blue and UV-A light to directly reverse the damaging pyrimidine dimers in the DNA caused by UV-B radiation, a key mechanism for maintaining the plant's genetic integrity. After carbon, light, water, temperature, and nutrients, the limiting factor of a plant's growth is often its own internal factors or the amount of a key ingredient. Chlorophyll concentration is one such factor, as the amount of this pigment limits how much light can be captured for photosynthesis. Other factors include chloroplast number, respiration rate, and the concentration of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, as plants are often in a CO2-deficient condition. 60x60x18=64800seconds x 700 = 45,360,000moles. 45DLI Exposure to 165 µW/cm² of ultraviolet-B (UV-B) light for 3600 seconds = 1 hour, a extremely high, acute dose triggering stress responses and protective mechanisms. . The plant's photoreceptor protein, UVR8, senses the UV-B radiation. This triggers a signaling cascade that activates specific genes to protect the plant from damage. In response to the UV-B signal, the plant ramps up the biosynthesis of protective compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids, and anthocyanins. These compounds absorb UV radiation and accumulate in the epidermal layers of leaves to shield inner photosynthetic tissues. The plant may increase leaf thickness or deposit more cuticular wax, creating a physical barrier to the radiation. The plant will produce more enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants to neutralize the reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced by the UV-B radiation. The plant activates enzymes, including photolyases, to repair DNA damage caused by the UV-B. These repair mechanisms are critical for preventing permanent genetic mutations. While protective measures are activated, a high dose delivered over a short period can cause stress that overwhelms the plant's defenses. Photosynthesis is highly sensitive to UV-B. A high dose can inactivate Photosystem II (PSII), damage thylakoid membranes within the chloroplasts, and reduce chlorophyll content, which lowers the plant's overall photosynthetic capacity. Despite repair mechanisms, high UV-B doses can inflict persistent damage on the plant's DNA. One study found that acute, high-dose UV-B had a greater effect on genome stability than chronic, low-dose exposure. The overproduction of reactive oxygen species can cause oxidative stress, leading to the oxidation of lipids and proteins and disrupting cellular function.
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@cafer
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I MADE TOPPING AT THE BEGINNING OF THE 3RD WEEK
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Some great weather the past week. I am surprised by how the training worked out I should do more but I’m not too confident tbh. This girl seems to amaze me by her beauty/health. Because 1 leaf showed a bit of a brown tip after 1 heavier feeding I might just feed water for the coming week. I’m not sure if I’m everything correctly but really so far so good, a great experience from a tiny seedling up in till this point .
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Hello everybody! Here we are a week later and I’m starting to see some nice improvements and developments. This week I fed all plants pretty heavily with Recharge and Dolomite Lime (and a little Cal Mag). The plants seemed to like it, the color is really coming back to a nice shade of green instead of the pale yellow’ish green. I’m also seeing nice bud sites developing on all of the photos. My autos are doing great too. The FastBuds Blackberry is a beautiful shade of purple and the Barneys Farm NYC Diesel is nice and chunky with tons of crystals. I’m going back to my normal nutrient routine this week and think it should be fairly smooth sailing from here. One negative is I seem to have inherited some bugs from my wife. She asked me to put one of her outdoor plants in the room so it would survive the winter, well it looks like that plant was infested with bugs. The little f’ers had a feast on some of the leaves. My wife gave me the OK to toss the plant, so with the plant removed it should be fairly easy to irradiate any remaining bugs with some sticky paper. I’d like to say thank you to all who answered my question regarding recommend reading on cannabis. I’m selecting the answer for the Grow Bible by Greg Green because I was actually unaware of that one. I’m familiar with the Cervantes and Rosenthal versions but not Greg Greens. I’ll be ordering that book after I receive and finish “True Living Organics” by The Rev (should be here tomorrow). This week I have a new question for my GD friends…. CO2? I have not been using CO2 but EVERY book I read recommends using it, I’m not prepared to go out and buy a CO2 tank, regulator, etc… at this time. Has anyone ever used one of those CO2 bags? Or do you have any DIY CO2 solutions you can recommend? I’m looking forward to your answers on CO2. I’ll leave you this week with another interesting excerpt from “Marijuana Cultivation Reconsidered: The Science and Techniques For Huge Indoor Yields” by Read Spear: “I prefer to use high-pressure sodium lamps. With the exception of LED's, HPS lamps are the most efficient source of light you can buy, both in terms of light output and light spectrum. Having read nearly every book on the subject of growing pot, I feel that their authors tend to overemphasize the importance of light spectrum. You do not need to alternate between metal halides (for growth) and sodiums (for flowering). That is an oversimplification of the plant's light requirements. You may do this if you like--it certainly won't hurt--but I firmly believe that the gains are just not great enough to justify the cost of the extra MH lamp.” -Read Spear
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I guess my lasts weeks post never posted. Oh well. Today is day 1 that i switch lights to 12/1
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@DailyDabs
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Starting week 6 of flowering and she is looking beautiful. She is really starting to resin up and sparkle now causing her to be pretty stinky haha.
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Day 22- She stopped putting on height due to one night of a dramatic temperature drop. It's a cooler fall this year plus a freeze came through the night before. That night, I was up doing some studying when I noticed the reading on the remote display. N o telling how long it had been in the very low 60's. The problem was fixed simply by adding a heater to the room. Now, the temp is only in the 68 degree range for the final 2 1/2 hrs. before the lights are cut back on. Day 26- Her bud branches hav grown at least 2 -5 innches in length and have at least 2-4 bud sites already. Instead of Defoliation, I decided to actual two different types of LST. The first is simply bending to fan leaf branches under to expose the bud branches to more light. The main benefit is that you still keep the ability to absorb more of the light energy with them. I look at the fan leaves as your plant's " Personal Sun Panels". Since they store energy in the day and use that reserve to grow at night, why would you take something away for her that is meant to help her? Also, the second method I used is something I like to call" wind thickening". The technique is using wind resistance to train your plant's stem and branches to become more rigid by growing thicker to stablize itself. So, instead of a gentle breeze, I use a three speed box fan at varies distance. I started doing this on Day 22 and the results are definitely showing. The main stem went from 1/16 in. to a nice 3/8 in.
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She is recovering fed her some more fish fertilizer this week…i expect her to Be fully green next week. It seems like she will take a while before flowing also.
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@Ninjabuds
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It's a nice change of pace to have these warmer temperatures, even if it's not quite spring yet. Low 40s during the day is a lot more comfortable than what we've been dealing with lately. Hopefully, this is a sign that spring's around the corner. My Skunk Apple plant sounds like it's finally getting on track. After a rough start, it's good to hear things are looking decent. Hopefully, it'll keep looking better and better.
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@HH501
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good morning friends with green thumbs..the nepal enters the 11th week and turns 86 days after its germination ... despite the rainy and cold weather in May as it hadn't happened for 20 years (I will probably change the title of my diary 😆), flowering continues despite the low sun and temperatures below 20 degrees. we hope that in the next week and in this the temperatures will rise and the sun returns to kiss my seedlings to allow me a good harvest