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Start of week 8 and the lady developed nicely. Buds are getting more compact. Leaves are already frosty. First leaves getting light green, yellow. I will feed the lady with BioBizz nutrients to see, how she will develop. Harvest getting closer and the first pistils get brown. I think 3-4 weeks left. Keep in touch ! Cheers, HighZenBerg
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This week went well. They stretched a bit when I still had them under the small lights after germinating while I was still sterilizing the big grow room. Didn't give any nutrients yet, but slightly introduced some root stimulant. I tried to support the stretched seedlings a bit with a wire as shown in the pics. Will update soon!
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to view this lamp or any other marshydro product go to: https://instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
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They took a long time to grow and mature 10 months in all. They produced amazing flowers with a genuine high. Left a lot to be desired in flavour profile however not awful to smoke. Would grow again for sure as they were a high yielding, ‘set and forget’ type of strain easy and resilient enough to grow and highly impressive to see grown outdoor.
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@420keef
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Finally got myself a dehumidifier, now i can controll the humidity in my room because it often went above 60% 🤷‍♂️🏻 Also love how the big northern light is really packing some weight! & the buds on the bottom look as good as the ones more on top!! Can’t wait till i can harvest all of em😁
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@NG420
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Fattys are growing and seem to be thirstier.Used foliar spray to help the leaves and also started tucking. When the plant was topped pistils were seen for first time.
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New leaves still discolored but growing apparently correctly. Possible reasons: - genetics (?) - heavy fertilized soil - Batmix from Plagron was used (?)
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@Coman
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Harvest is coming closer but not yet. No amber trichomes yet. Still drinking 3.4L/48 h. Nice smell, some how hypnotizing, but not that strong. Maybe filter is doing the job. Did some defoliation 2 days ago, light on the 2 ladys behind, and little stronger on the one in the front, cause I think she’s not fare from ripening.
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Sugar Bomb Punch THC Bomb X (Critical Orange Punch x Bubba Island Kush). Harvested on 63 th day of flowering. A cool strain to grow from Dutch Passion 👍 4 on 4 on germination rate. The 4 ladies were slightly different from each others but they gave some very cool buds ! The "black one" was a real beauty 😍
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Hey everyone :-). There is not much to tell this week :) A few came to the flowering tent, 2 are still in the vegi phase for 2 days and then come last to the flowering tent :-) The Blue Cheese and the Kosher Tangie Kush smell very good and how they should 😍👍 It will be difficult to choose 2 mums :-). I wish everyone a nice week 👌 Let it grow
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Started some early training on this one.. loving the leaf colorations ✌️🏼
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@Kayakbob
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Starting week 3. I decided to wait on feeding until next week. I say a comment where someone said the FFOF is a hot soil and should suffice until then. He also said to add about an inch more FFOF to recharge the soil which I did. We will see how the week goes. Middle of week 3 and decided to start the feeding regimen tomorrow. The girls look very healthy and I hope they continue on this path. Three weeks And had a small feeding yesterday. All looks good.
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@ciansta
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All of the dosidos’ ended up dying. Hope it was a case of weak genetics and not my incompetence because the northern lights seems to be completely okay, and we’re about 2 and a half weeks in now. Next node is coming in and the plant is really kicking into fast growth now around 4~5th May.
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Things are going pretty well. 🙂 I am just about to start flushing. Buds are swelling up and getting denser every day. Getting close to the finish line. 😎 I'll update throughout the week.
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@Dictator
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Buds should be dried at 20 degrees in the dark at 40% humidity
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@mRJ519
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Watering/ feeding every 4 day's... Alternating feed and water... Keeping it simple
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Eine absolute Washer Genetik. Jedes Blatt ist komplett voll mit Trichomen.
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Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.