Hola así vamos terminando la tercera semana de floración de este seguimiento de clones y semillas , las encuentro bastante rápida para la formación de flores y pegaron un estirón bastante bueno , tengo una Sugar Black Rose ( la más alta del fondo izquierdo ) que se espigo más que todas le he realizado 2 cropping pero sigue de todas formas levantándose hacia la luz .- La producción de tricomas es bastante buenas y los olores son muy agradables . . . . Hello, so we are finishing the third week of flowering of this clone and seed monitoring, I find them quite fast for the formation of flowers and they hit a pretty good stretch, I have a Sugar Black Rose (the highest one on the left bottom) that spikes more I've all done 2 cropping but still getting up towards the light. The production of trichomes is quite good and the smells are very pleasant.

This was my 1st photoperiod grow on growdiaries and I'm glad I tried these Fast flowering photoperiods for it. Big thanks to Heather and the Fastbuds team. I have grown the Gorilla Cookies auto before so this photoperiod fast version has something to live up to. She grew way taller then i was expecting, hence the many bends and breaks. To be honest she was great to grow and the favourite plant of the grow. Because this grow was going so good I decided to switch back to photoperiods for the next few grows i just wish i had left her in veg for 1 more week. Total dry weight for the grow, decent buds=136g Light power Total= 200.43Kw 18hrs for 28 days = 504hrs 12hrs for 67 days = 804hrs Total hours for lights= 1308hrs 200.43÷1308=0.153Kw/hr average. Average 153w/hr Total g/W=0.89g/W Power used for grow=508.78Kw @0.30p =£152.63 Each gram cost £1.12 The buds have been curing for nearly 2 weeks so I haven't had a sample yet. There will be more pictures added once I try the buds and write up a smoke review but for now I'll just leave a video of the grow and a picture. Thanks to all who have viewed my diaries and a big thanks to all that posted likes and comments, it's much appreciated.

2000 ml alle 2 Tage pH-Wert: 6,1 EC-Wert: 1,2 Temperatur: 22ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit 62% Schädlingsbekämpfung: PPFD: 500 µmol/m²/s DLI: 33 Düngemittel: Mineralischer Dünger 3.5-6-6 PK 13/14 Besonderheiten: Wurden direkt in die erde gepflanzt in einer Kokos-Quelltabletten. -Tag 85 Wir haben mit dem Flusch begonnen, So wie es aussieht sind es noch so 10 bis 15 Tage bis zur ernte. Wir haben die Trichome kontrolliert und es sind schon einige Milchig aber es gibt noch viele Durchsichtige. 😍 -Tag 87 Sie hat heute wieder Wasser bekommen und die Härchen sind Brauner geworden. Der Duft nimmt auch immer mehr zu und wir sind schon sehr gespannt wie sie wird 😝

Finished lovely. Really really quality product and I just wish it never ended 🤤

Just switched to 12/12 lighting the other day so hopefully we’ll be seeing signs of flower

Another week closer.... So glad we are almost to the end, the heat out lately has been a killer, added another fan to the room it helped a little .... The girls are drinking alot ..they are at the point were the ppms dont drop but raise as the water goes down.. do to not taking up nutrients as they were when growing earlier, so in turn the last few weeks I start to drop in ppms ...I never have noticed a difference by keeping them high all the way to the end I like to drop the last few weeks ....if they are not using it why feed them it...... everything else is going great Until next week, smoke a fatty , help out your fellow grower.

Man I just can't seem to catch a brake with this strain. Both plants are looking a bit wilted but there still growing strong. I moved my SF-4000 light up a bit to see if it would help. I was really hoping g to have all the issues sorted before flower but that wasn't the case. They were looking good them wham wilted... oh well I'll just keep a really close eye on them. Temperature and humidity have been stable for the most part. Was having g issues with my dehumidifier tho for a few days. I believe it was over heating a bit and was auto shutting off. So the my humidity would spike up to 75-80% but luckily it was during lights off and I was home when it happened. After moving a few things around and turning it off for a hour it seems to have corrected itself. Good caz I don't really want to have to buy a new one yet lol. For my nutrients I'm slowly bring it up. By the end of week 2 I should have it closer to 1000 ppm. I also stopped using airstones in my tank because I was having a few issues. Now I'm just using a water pump on a timer. Turns off when lights turn on and the back on a hour before the turn off. I've got most of my fans now running at 100%. Only ones that are still only running at 50% are my two lower section fans. With them set to that I find the temperature and humidity at all 4 corners of the room are close enough that I should have zero issues. Well that's all for now so keep growing everyone!!!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

APRICOT GORILLA AUTO / GANJA FARMER WEEK #8 OVERALL Week #2 FLOWER This week she enters week 2 of flower and her buds are forming nicely, and she doubled in size this week amazingly!! Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! Thank you GANJA FARMER!! GANJA FARMER APRICOT GORILLA AUTO

Good day to all my friends and visitors here on GD. Decided to finally finish this diary, I took my time with his one ;) Now we cut the second POGP auto plant, the first cut you can find in week 17. The plant from week 17 weighted 660g. wet, this one finished at 1,85kg. wet. The girls where autoflower but thanks to me starting this grow in cold day temps (14 degree Celsius) the started flower really late, maybe that's also the reason for all my problems with this strain during the grow?! The two plants where different phenotypes, the smaller one (from Week 17)though small had nice hard flowers, the bigger one as the only plant from four I grew during the growop started foxtailing. Both of them branched nicely the smell was quite strong and awoul xD like gasoline and something rotten, it smelled so bad i checked a couple times under microscope for any signs of mold in the flower and to my suprise I found nothing. Thank God later during drying the smell would subdue to a more generic "hazediesel" smell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SE7000 done it's magic with this grow as with all my other grow ops. For anyone who is interested in obtaining this efficient and affordable light fixture ($ to gram) here's the link: https://spider-farmer.com/products/spider-farmer-upgraded-se7000-730w-commercial-led-grow-light/ A shout out to SSSC for the gift of genetics: supersativaseedclub.com/ Thank you all for your companionship on this voyage, I hope you enjoyed it at least as much as I did. Also thank you for this awesome year together here.

🌳🌳🌳🌳🌳

guys this plant is monster!!! that is all i can say!!! cant wait to taste her one bad news, i have to take her out of the box for about 2 weeks before my Mephisto testers finished stretching, i have very small box ((( soon will move to the tent in house ✊👌

FOR EVERYTHING MARS HYDRO VISIT: www.mars-hydro.com www.marshydroled.ca PROMO CODE: rocknroll VISIT THE ALIEXPRESS STORE: @marshydro_aliexpress Instagram: @marshydropenny https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA (NEW) STRIVE NUTRIENTS Thanks for taking the time to read and check out my diary🤜🤛 FC-E6500 LED GROW LIGHT: FC-E6500 grow light with 3978pcs OSRAM BridgeLux Diodes & Moso Driver, market-leading PPF 2.7 µmol/J, Max 2.5g yield/watt with 30% higher Average PPE, more cost-effective when compared to same style type lights. Only consumes 650W, perfectly cover 5x5ft (personal), 4x4ft (commercial) grow space. Innovative Precise Uniform Lighting-Built-in removable bars interval & dimmability enable the exact & dynamic PPFD control over each of the plant growing stages, FC-E6500 detachable bars deliverSuperior Heat Dissipation: Real Aluminum heatsink together with 6 slim profile passive cooled bars (THINNER & LARGER surface) and detachable Meanwell Driver, create less heat. save 50% hydro than other old grow lights! Driver can be mounted remotely on the side of a grow tent/rack or on an adjacent wall to remove heat from grow space. Full Spectrum UV IR LED: With Yield Max spectrum (660nm Osram enhanced Deep Red,2800k-5000k,730-740nm IR,380-410nm UV LEDs), Average PPFD the FC-E6500 LED grow lamp enables cultivators to produce BIG FAT Dense Buds, perfect for full-cycle hydroponic, soil, grow tent/grow room. Dimmable Commercial Grow Light: Cost-efficient, easy dimming & daisy chain With a max up to 20 lights, IP65 Waterproof, master light easily controls the rest. Perfect for commercial & home horticulture. FC4800 LED GROW LIGHT: GET THE MAX FROM MARS👍: Welcome one of  the newest members of the Mars Hydro family🤜🤛🤘. The Mars Hydro FC 4800 480W LED Grow Light can accommodate up to a 4' x 4' area for flowering. It has OVER 2000 LED chips consisting of the best selling Samsung LM301B diodes which has a Luminous Efficacy of: 220 lm/W 0.2 W, 3 V mid power, Osram 660nm Diodes, Infrared light and UV LIGHT👍. It boasts the incredible efficiency of 2.8 µmol/J, maximum 2.5gram yield per watt with 30% higher Average PPFD. This High-intensity spectrum is beneficial for plants at all stages - from veg to bloom, and creates Big dense Buds👍. achieve 50% higher yields & quality compared with the old lights! Only consumes 480W for 4x4ft personal grows, and 3x3ft for commerical grow. It comes with a dimmer and daisy chain function with a  maximum of up to 15 lights, the master light controls the rest👍. Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! TSW2000 LED GROW LIGHT: INCREASE YIELD AND CROP QUALITY WITH MARS HYDRO LED GROW LIGHTS: NEWEST SMD LED technology provides the highest PAR/LUMEN output (1122umol@18") and can make you get 30% higher yield compared to OLD blurple led lights.  Max 2.5g yield per wattage and achieve maximum quality and quantity, much better than traditional HPS grow systems LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION LED GROW LIGHT: Consuming only 300W true output with 684 LEDS! It saves up to 50% energy than other led grow lights. Perfect for 3.5x3.5ft bloom stage, 4x4ft veg stage. Over 90% light energy can be absorbed by plants, it will have higher intensity in a MARS HYDRO grow tent with diamond design mylar, or by crossing over using multiple TSW2000 HIGH EFFICIENCY FULL SPECTRUM INDOOR GROW: 3000K 5000K and IR 660nm 760nm RED, makes it close to natural light, highly engineered to provide improved growing performance for plants at all stages of growing, rapid plant response from seed to flower; Uniform and wide-beam light distribution for your plant's optimal growth 8x8 1680D GROW TENT The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air. The tent includes 2 removable waterproof floor trays to hold soil and water. The removable tray can be taken out to wash easily. They guarantee the grow tents are easy to install even if you've never done something like this before. Clear Instructions and no tools needed! They also offer 30-day unconditional refunds for quality problems. Just contact their friendly 24 hours customer service 👍

I basically skipped week 17 as there was nothing new except I added some compost tea that I made with come compost, vegetable scraps, a few cedar clippings and neam oil (oh and some fertilizer ... I forget what) Sprayed with neam oil/soap mix

Despite being absolutely crowded out by the behemoth Pineapple Express next door this earthy pungent beautiful plant isn’t taking any crap. Her colas from top to bottom are rock hard and text book. I can’t wait until we get a chance to actually see what is behind plant number one!

Flushed her 2 days ago to get rid of old salts now feeding 850ppm

Day 36. One girl is shooting the sky other still have that unhealthy look, made my mind - its genetics and i can't do anything. Girls got second feed, looks happy and hopefully will bring some nice flowers. Took some leaves down, spread a bit, but most of work will be done next week, if i will dare ;))) Last time used Root Juice, added Acti-Vera, increased Bloom and Heaven. Day 40. After last feed, girls got small rusty spots on 4-5 leaves total, cut out cal mag for couple weeks. Heavy training, its always tricky to decide what to do with Autos and i have almost no knowledge, but i have SPA Queen and Midget aka Margaret ;))) both different, but bushy, had to clear Midget really heavily and still loads future airbuds left, but maybe ... ;))) Girls drink 3 liters every day, highest rate ever, but i relate it to most powerfull exhaust ever. Some leaves on both plants got strange mutation, like leaf tries to branch out ... Never seen anything like this. But by height i presume it happend on first feed, late Root Juice aftermath ? Happy Growing !