Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Diese Woche war eine Qual es sind 2 Äste abgebrochen beim ein weben Sowas von scheisse! ich und meine wurst finger aber sonnst bin ich zufrieden mit der Sache läuft........

End of day 41 flower and will be flushing both girls on day 42 flower. Overall the buds don’t seem as fat as it should be but hopefully during the flush they should gain some weight. I took a bunch of clones so those will be going to flower soon and now I have a better understanding of how to treat these girls during the flowering stage. Also popped two Blueberry seeds so I will have a journal on that soon.

27/02/19 - This one is great, I popped the seed 24hrs after the gelato and this one seems to be developing its leaves a lot faster than the rest, so far really happy with DNA and with mills nutrients, it’s a lot easier to mix and I no longer have to use ph down because once all mixed it’s at a 5.8/5.9. 👌🏻 02/03/19 - Just transplanted all into their final pot, just in time I think as it looked like the roots were starting to circle at the bottoms of the pot, sprinkled half a tea spoon of Mykos on each hole prior to the transplant & fed them 2.5 litres each. I was going to saturate the whole pot but I’ll do that next feeding.

A solid 13cm vertical growth this week but look at how much she has bushed out! I think she's going to make a very nice adult plant.

Buenos días familia, volvemos con la cuarta semana de floración con nuestras skunk de zambezaseeds y hay que recalcar que esta variedad tiene una rápida floración, apostaría Que será lo primero que cortemos. El ph está controlado en 6.5 a partir de esta semana añadimos overdrive en nuestros riegos. Temperatura y humedad ideales para la Avanzada etapa de floración. Esta cepa es bastante resistente y Fácil de cultivar , os la recomendaría sobretodo a cultivadores novatos, y no tan novatos claro , ya que se valora mucho una floración rápida en indoor.

6/13/2023 Week 10- Day 1 of Flower (Day 131 overall) (Day 70 of Flower) Auto Pilot Day 6.. Checked the Trichomes and the bud density and both are looking good.. Definitely needs a little more time for the Trichomes to be where I like, so based on my check I think we are still looking right around the end of the competition 22June to be done and ready for harvest. I do like that the fade is coming in the leaves nicely, so my chart I think is dropping off the Nitrogen exactly like it is supposed to. 6/14/2023 Week 10- Day 2 of Flower (Day 132 overall) Auto Pilot Day 7.. Decided I would take some contrasting pics today with my light up to 100 and my light all the way on Dim. I hope you enjoy the pics. 6/15/2023 Week 10- Day 3 of Flower (Day 133 overall) Auto Pilot Day 8.. Decided to take a look at the Trichome's today and Check to see where they are at and honestly if I might ho ahead and start my flush tomorrow and harvest on Sunday. 6/16/2023 Week 10- Day 4 of Flower (Day 134 overall) (Day 74 of Flower) Today I pulled an Armageddon however instead of darkness they are going to get 48 hours of light. The reason why they are going to get light instead of dark is when I was taking out the netting a lot of the buds were so heavy they fell over and exposed some areas I really want to get some light to... so 48 hours of light at 40% while I watch what should be a beautiful final fade as the plant eats up the last Nutes. If anything goes wrong I can abort take the photos and cut so will pay really close attention to how it is looking over the next 48 hours. Added 30 Gallons of PH only Water. Reduced Lighting to 40% removed program time off. 48 hours of light. 6/17/2023 Week 10- Day 5 of Flower (Day 135 overall) (Day 75 of Flower) I had someone tell me that a few growers had done as I did and Gone Armageddon on the plants. Filling it with PH only and said the plants did not respond well and they were taken out of the comp at the very end because they felt like the pictures just wouldn't come out right. Even though I did go Armageddon, The PPM is at 353PPM with the residue of what was left in the buckets after draining as well as what I am getting from the TAP so I think they are doing good but I am checking them every few hours to see how they seem to be doing and I think they are doing good still and are on track. I also started prepping the area for the pics tomorrow T-24 Hours until Chop 6/18/2023 Week 10- Day 6 of Flower (Day 136 overall) (Day 76 of Flower) (Harvest Day) What a day.. what a day.. what a day.. as I was setting up and trying to figure out how I was going to get my pics #3 stems started breaking, it fell over and other stems broke.. So no really stunning competition photo for her, she had such a nice purple fade.. #2 stayed up in the Tent so that is the one I had to go with to submit for the contest. I wet trimmed them as they went into the tent and they took up three rows hanging in tent. I also decided I wanted to try some so I put a little in the freeze dryer for a 48 hour smoke test.. I will weigh it and add that to my total weight for the plants when it is all done.

Esta semana todo tranquilo, en un par de días más haré poda de bajos y defoliación . También se colocaran tutores de vara a cada planta

Today is the day my big bud seeds come out of the soil, they have all started to take root in 25 liters of soil without any problems

With the last heat wave, I had an answer to one of my questions, clearly my chiller is not doing the trick. I have water temperatures that went up to 27°, which is way too much, the plants deprived of oxygen, started to declare several deficiencies due to an assimilation slowed by the lack of oxygen. It is then that a nasty fungus came to say bijour, it is me MR pythium! It was necessary to act, at the risk of having to restart the culture. So I applied hydrogen peroxide and ROOT ROT X, and both products are doing harm to this nasty pythium, things are now back to normal. On the other hand, the plants had a decreased growth for 10 to 15 days, so I'm going to extend my growth for 10 to 20 days, that is to say 1 or 2 soups, I'll choose according to the root development of the plants. Before going to flowering, I have to catch up this delay in order to make a nice crop.

Im thinking in flip to flower tomorrow, what do you guys think about

Frappé Laté Z

the weather in my part of germany is really bad for this summer at the moment. it's raining too much. i've put them in a dry place to prevent mould from forming. maybe they're not getting as much fertiliser. they'll get one more week and then they'll be harvested.

I'm impressed with this C4 Auto, from fastbuds this is one of two plants I grew. This plant is a real indoor plant she grows lovely. The other plant is an outdoor plant it's pretty too don't get me wrong but where i thought the outdoors would produce a bigger plant i got the opposite of that, I got a Mutated plant, nice colored bud on here but she continues to mutate even in flowering stage my indoor plant is twice her height and size but love both my C4 Auto from fastbuds. Even if they broke my heart by changing payment policy, I'll never be able to get seeds from fastbuds again so I decided to spray my runt on the outdoors with tiresias mist feminized seed spray..... hopefully I get some pollen and able to pollinate my indoor C4 Auto..

what a resin monster! such beautiful plants! one of the 2 phenos had straight peanutbutter flavor!

Semana sel 9 al 14 de septiembre 2024. Vemos un desarollo bastante vigoroso en todas, esto también se puede adjudicar el hecho de la nutrición que han estádo llevando esta tanda se fem y regulares, la mandarine qué nació con apical va bastante bien.

Hourly working on it. Level up with Clipping from HASSE Gorilla Auto 33 days Twice topped, main lining, HST, LST ,Every ST) Hasse style 70/70 box 6 plants

Looking Good Seeing Some Nice Budsites