Day 36 week 5 22.01.2020 Plant is doing great but atm the grow rate is slowing down a bit or maybe it’s just me !!! I did cut her down quite a bit and that’s maybe why , other then that strong thick branches and a low profile like I wanted !! She’s ready to go into the bloom box as soon as I free up some space there what should be in a few days to a week !! She’s getting 2 best spot under lamp but still a prime spot I would say So from now it’s getting interesting so stay tuned

📆 Semana 4: Con el pH del coco terminando de ajustarse y el entorno radicular ya plenamente equilibrado, la planta consolida su floración funcional. El estiramiento se detiene y los puntos florales se compactan en las puntas, con mayor densidad de pistilos y estructura ya fijada. Los riegos siguen acompasando la demanda sin acumulaciones, manteniendo EC estable y favoreciendo una absorción limpia. La respuesta aérea se mantiene óptima: hojas firmes, color uniforme y una expresión aromática cítrica más intensa y definida. Semana de afirmación floral y estabilidad radicular tras el ajuste del medio. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

This one has been delightful to grow full of buds everywhere with very little Fan leafs can't wait to cure and tested. I have cut down in jar everything the wait was 97 grams please consider that when they comes to my scale weight i wait until the main stem breaks with a loud crunch and the buds are really dry to the touch reason for it I have a very busy life and at the end of the day this is just a hobby so I cannot be opening those jars many times a day at most one in the morning and one in night so I want to avoid mold on them.so I push in a Boveda pack to keep them nice Thank you for reading I will update the other details when ready have a happy grow.

So this has been a better week, as you can see they have gained alot of height. The internodes are closer and tighter now that I adjusted the light. Stalk is thick but they are still a bit filmsy I think the calmag is doing the job, along with giving bloom nutes. It's pretty sad how bare they are, but I think that was my fault having the light too far away in the beginning. Only a few more weeks until these girls should be done! Hoping mostly to gain the knowledge from this grow, I don't think i'll be doing autos again, as I love the veg stage. Hope everyone has a great week!👽 FEB10 update + video

Flowering day 25 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey guys :-) . The ladies are developing more and more beautiful and fat week after week 😊. The tent fills up perfectly 👌. I removed the bottom shoots to allow the energy to flow to the top buds. This week it was watered 3 times with 1.3 l each (nutrients see table above) Otherwise everything was cleaned and checked. Have fun and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : Clearwater Seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany

Week 12 (14-4 to 20-4) 14-4 Temps: 19.7 to 23.5 degrees Humidity: 45% to 68% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 15-4 Temps: 19.2 to 27.1 degrees Humidity: 52% to 69% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 1.5 Light set from 65% to 70% strength. Did a big defoliation today. (Schwazzing) Removed 141 grams of leaves. 16-4 Temps: 20.6 to 25.8 degrees Humidity: 54% to 66% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 17-4 Temps: 18.5 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 60% to 68% 18-4 Temps: 18.7 to 24.2 degrees Humidity: 56% to 71% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 19-4 Temps: 18.4 to 24 degrees Humidity: 54% to 70% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 20-4 Temps: 18.3 to 24.2 degrees Humidity: 51% to 71% Watering: 1750 ml. EC: 0.4 Light is at 70% strength with a distance of 37/40 cm. Also installed a stronger exhaust fan as the humidity is getting a bit high.

Hi everyone ! 😀 Everything is ok, no disease, no carrency. but 2 ladies don't want to stretch a lot :/ ( the 2 on the corner, bottom left and Top right ) i don't know why. maybe it's the variety. i have 4 Skunk XL and 2 Critical. Maybe these 2 are the critical ( yes i lost them when i plant the seed 😩 ... ) No more pH fluctuation ( i love that ) EC is around 1.9/2.0 and increase to 2.1/2.2 when they drink a lot so i add water with 1.7 ec to decrease it to 1.9/2.0 again I added 30L of water since i changed the water ( 2 tanks * 20L / i change it the 11/05/18 ) so i'm gonna change the whole solution during the week. See you next week !

Big Red (Or Big Purp) was one fantastic grow. One big bud that could pass for a weapon if used correctly. She was another experimental child of Delta 9 and I can say she liked it I'll update weights when she's dry but I can see her being quite fruitful no pun intended

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Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

- Topping SC - FIMing SS

Esta semana he terminado con los trasplantes de una de las mesas completa. He regado las que no están trasplantadas con un total de 20L de agua + Bio Rhizotonic + Bio Vega, para que aguanten hasta que les llegue la hora del trasplante. También he tratado todo el cultivo, con Propolix diluido en agua y pulverizado sobre las plantas justo antes de que se apaguen los focos, de esta forma evitamos quemaduras en las hojas y le damos una protección extra contra diferentes patógenos. Las trasplantadas las riego solo con agua + Bio Rhizotonic.

She looks good after the high stress

Something wrong happened on the end of last week. I had a little irrigation problem and I did a m mistake with the fan’s position, it was too direct on the roots. I think this could have caused a block to the nutrients transmission. I will give just water with regulator ed enzym+. Let’ a see

7/29/24 week 8. Flipping is around the corner. I have to defoliate before the flip. I added recharge nutrient this week to help the ladies have a quick recovery. I'm only feeding recharge with a 3 gallon res fill. I usually fill up by at least 6 gallons. What are yalls experiences using recharge?

Not wet weighing but will update when dried

Another steady week of bud development. I haven't really done much with those apart from the occasional removal of yellow leaves and tucking nuisance leaves under the net. The plants are all still growing in line with the previous expectations, with Topping and LST being the biggest, Mainlined next and then LST only in last place. It will be interesting to see the results though. Should only be a few more weeks until harvest, as a large majority of trichomes are already milky.

Hello Diary. The first week of flowering is over, the plants have branched out nicely, the Purple Punch has grown more than 60cm and has now become crowded on the Farm. Specifically, Purple Punch # 1 grew 66 cm, Purple Punch # 2, which sprouted a few days later, grew 54 cm, which surpassed roommate Watermelon, who keeps them company on the Farm. Along with the height, there are a lot of leaves throughout the plant, but this time I'm not sure if I would do defoliation. The plants normally look healthy and satisfied, they did not reflect as much as on Watermelon, that they were harmed by too many nutrients. They’re obviously a little more resistant to that. Except for the yellowish tips of the leaves, which I believe is genetics, everything else seems fine. The flowers started to form, so I have new motives to photograph. At the beginning of the week, I also changed the light regime to 20 hours of the day and 4 hours of the night. I water every two to three days, when each plant gets about 2 liters of water. I add food at about every other watering. Sometimes biobizz and sometimes I put Easy Grow or Easy Bloom tablet, depending on the stage the plant is in. p.H. I always adjust the water value to a value between 6.2 and 6.5. Conditions on the Farm are more or less satisfactory, the temperature is about 25 degrees while the humidity is slightly lower than satisfactory, varying between 40% and 50%. Here’s a brief overview of the past week. 18/02/2021 - Day 23. Watering. I adjusted the water to 6.3 p.H with Plagron’s Lemon Kick and added 1.5 mL / lit CalMg preventively. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 25 degrees and 41% humidity. 20/02/2021 - Day 25. Watering. I regulated the water to 6.4 p.H, I added 1ml / lit CalMg and BioBizz as scheduled for the first week of flowering. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 24.4 degrees and 43% humidity. 22/02/2021 - Day 27. Watering. This time I watered only with water which I regulated p.H at 6.3. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 24.6 degrees and 40% humidity. 23/02/2021 - Day 28. Photography and height measurement. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 25 degrees and 42% humidity. That’s it for this week, a big hello and thank you to everyone who follows the diary and thanks for the comments. See you soon.