Thestretch stopped and now after defoliation i let her go stressless

Welcome to my Øpium diary. In this diary: Seeds: sponsored by Ðivine Șeeds Media: Promix HP Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients, Diablo Nutrients, Gaia Green Power Bloom. Light and Weather: Şun☀️and Mother Earth.🌎 ___________________________ Wet Weight: 1737 grams ___________________________ Wet Trimming with my trimming bowl was a humongous time saver!! ______________________________ Took me about 7 hours to wet trim ______________________________ I wanna Thanks Ðivine Seeðs for the Opportunity to grow and smøke your Ðivine Plants👊🏼😉 ______________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Dehumidifier in lung room been going all week to help with temps All going extremely well. Not one leaf has any burn or deficiencies. Purple punch at the back looking a bit light green could just be the pheno. Flower sooner next time. They are taking over the room. Finally stopped stretching now. Mont Blanc 61cm Blue sherbet 97 +86 Purple punch 99+ 102 kush mints 110cm Lights 465w 26cm Dli 800ish 300w 21-32cm Ppfd 750-950 Dli 32.4-41 Pineapple chunk outside All going well with it. Putting it in the shed at 8.30pm and taking it back out 8.30am Giving plain water every day in the tray 31.3.23 1L 10ml pk 5-8. Ec4.5 5ml bio heaven Ec4.7 3ml Acti Vera Ec 4.7 3ml Alg a mic Ec4.9 Ph 5.9 Added another 0.5L water Ec 3.5 Ph5.9. Brought up to 6.3 8ish drops Gave 1L bottom and half litre top watered

Giorno 2 Molto molto appiccicosa e molto profumata, le cime sotto non sono ancora tanto piene ma i pistilli stanno iniziando a maturare in quantità. Il taglio è fissato a 1 settimana e mezzo da adesso per la parte superiore più matura della pianta, e la parte inferiore rimarrà una settimana in più a maturare.

The two northern lights auto are dry. Together 45g before drytrim. Not too bad, concidering the cloudy, wet weather..

We finally started flowering this week, some plans changed and we did not clone this genetics, we are waiting to do a broader Pheno hunt and get the best specimen available.

**Encontrarás la traducción a español al final de la descripción** From/Desde: 19/04/19 || To/Hasta: 25/04/19 From day/Desde día: 57 || To day/Hasta día: 63 You can find the Money Maker Diary here: ** Podéis encontrar el diario de las Money Maker aquí:** https://growdiaries.com/diaries/25667-gorillamakingmoney-gorilla-vs-money-m -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- 1 - Before defoliation 2 - Defoliation 3 - After defoliation -----WEEK SUMMARY----- (Following text was translated with tools and reviewed, sorry for mistakes, misspellings or nosense things) As you can see I've done a defoliation this week. Yes, I have really gone over the top, I have removed many more leaves than I had, and the tails of the plants has not come to join at all due to the failed defoliation. Being the first defoliation I do, I did not really know what I was doing and I went crazy. Now that it has been several weeks since I made this defoliation, I realize that I should not have removed the leaves from the nodes of the tails, because they have stopped growing and have not joined with their superior parts. Anyway, the plants are beautiful today and although they could be much better I feel very happy with them. I know I've made 2 fatal mistakes in this grow  - The first has been the massive defoliation badly done, defoliation yes, but with head ... do not follow my example.  - The second failure that I see today, is that I did not leave enough growth time (18/6) after having made the last pruning and that has made the tails have been a length much less than what would have been desired, I think that 2 more weeks of growth would have been perfect. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 20/04/19 - 1,250 ml with Sensizym, Silica, Rhino Sk, Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Bud Candy & Bud Factor-x @ PH6.4 & 1.2 E.C. 23/04/19 - 1,250 ml with All week nutrients - (Silica, Sensizym & Bud Ignitor) @ PH6.5 & 1.5 E.C. *****ESPAÑOL***** -----IMÁGENES Y VÍDEOS----- 1 - Antes de la defoliación 2 - Defoliación 3 - Después de la defoliación -----SUMARIO SEMANAL----- Como podéis ver esta semana he hecho una defoliación. Si, efectivamente me he pasado de listo, he quitado muchas más hojas de las que debía y las colas de las plantas no ha llegado a unirse del todo debido a la fallida defoliación. Al ser la primera defoliación que realizo, no sabía muy bien que hacía y me lancé a lo loco. Ahora que han pasado varias semanas desde que realicé esta defoliación, me doy cuenta de que no debí de haber quitado las hojas de los nodos de las colas, pues estos han dejado de crecer y no se han unido con sus partes superioras. De todas maneras, las plantas están preciosas a día de hoy y aunque podrían estar mucho mejor me doy con un canto en los dientes. Se que he cometido 2 errores gordos en este cultivo - El primero ha sido la defoliación masiva mal realizada, defoliación si, pero con cabeza.... no sigáis mi ejemplo. - El segundo fallo que yo veo a día de hoy, es que no dejé suficiente tiempo de crecimiento (18/6) después de haber realizado las últimas podas y eso ha hecho que las colas hayan quedado de una longitud muy inferior a la que hubiera deseado, creo que 2 semanas más de crecimiento hubiera sido perfecto. -----CALENDARIO DE RIEGO----- 20/04/19 - 1.250 ml con Sensizym, Silica, Rhino Sk, Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Bud Candy y Bud Factor-x @ PH6.4 & 1,2 E.C. 23/04/19 - 1.250 ml con todos los nutrientes semanales - (Silica, Sensizym y Bud Ignitor) @ PH6,5 & 1,5 E.C.

12/20/2018 Got some Omaha Steaks in mail today so I put a little dry ice in tent to see what happens, temps maybe too low to utilize extra c02 but we will see. Other than that all is well . I have chosen 2 distinctly different phenotype to grow out #1 is short stocky, fat leaves more Indica leaning. #3 is more pale green more lanky, thinner leaves more Sativaish, but definitely some Indica traits as well. #1 very healthy , #3 a little behind, but in my opinion sativas are slower than indicas, to grow any way. Maybe need different feeding schedule as well we will see. 12/26/2018 Was planning to flip on Jan. 1, but I want to clone the Indica leaning one she is showing great growth and structure,and grows twice as fast as her sisters,(maybe a male?) Hope not cause,she is fastest growing plant i can remember growing. Beautiful fat chunky leaves, and great internodal spacing,and a nice lush green leaves.

Bueno familia ya finalizamos con el proyecto de las Runtz de seedstockers, son una cepa bestial. La verdad que el secado muy bien 9 días en Malla y a los botes, 40% humedad y 21 grados es la temperatura ambiental que han tenido en el secado, aparte deshumidificador enchufado 24 horas al día. En resumen la cepa es muy fácil de cultivar, el germinado se me resistió igual es complicado el germinado pero el resto es simple resistente fácil de alimentar pienso que es rápida los tricomas ya estaban hechos y se me hecho el tiempo encima. Por lo demás de miedo os la recomiendo. Gracias a Seedstockers, Agrobeta y Mars hydro, sin ellos este proyecto no sería igual 🙏. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Buenos humos 💨💨💨

I fed her some molasses last weekend. Personally I never really notice much difference after feeding molasses but I still try feeding it 2 weeks before harvest anyway. I have beed giving her just water since then. Going to flush real good this weekend, then let her dry out til the following weekend when I am going to harvest her. That should put the harvest date right around 1/27/18, which would be a full 3 months of growth - seed to harvest. The Blue Mammoth has been just a great plant to grow so far. I did not do anything to her except some defoliation. No bending, training, topping, etc... And she looks awesome in my opinion. She's bigger than the Girl Scout Cookies I harvested a few weeks ago, which yielded 2.6 oz. Looking forward to harvest, cure and smoke👍

Whats up GD !!! ------------- GROWTH------------- She is getting weight and finishing, leaves turned purple, red, and all the amazing colours you see in photos, she is almost ready and it is so frosty, Smells like red licorice, and fruits. Flushing last 7 days. ------------- IRRIGATION------------- 1,5l, watering each 3 days . 1 of 2 irrigations with nutes, and the other with water. ------------- NUTRIENTS------------- Top Bloom (3ml/l) Top Candy (2ml/l) --------------------------------------- Good vibes !! _29/06/2018_

Froze one entire plant immedietly upon harvest to turn into live rosin later. Dried other plant for 8 days in grow tent and began curing on 5/19/22.

From now on, I shall update my diary everyday. I used some rosemary oil spray for the remaining spider mites. Worked like a charm Day 40: the buds are still developing new pistils. The weather these days has been sunny to cloudy with some rain.

Topped in the last week and given first amendment with a tiny bit of alfalfa, otherwise just water

The plant seems to be in bad shape, with problems all over the place, but it’s still flowering. The other plants that sprouted from the buds seem to be photoperiod, but I’ve never given them much priority.

This week the girls were covered in snow. I've never seen anything like it with my own eyes before, only in pictures :D The lower large leaves have turned yellow, but this time don't panic :D experts say it's normal.

2 ever differing plants here. #1 I think is very much ready to cut and will be doing so over the next day or two. Foxtail mad plant. #2 is gonna be another week I reckon. Still very leafy and starting to foxtail more so won't leave too much longer. Could be a very heavy one depending on how much needs to be trimmed.

Excelente sabor y olor